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new AC compressor, sparks and noise

fordguy

blah.
Joined
Nov 24, 2022
Member Number
5787
Messages
283
so I finally changed the pigtail to the new compressor on the dakota, sounded great and blew cols and then made a horrible sound and started seeing sparks

I am guessing siezed?

I did add oil when putting the new compressor in, but who knows how much it needed

Old condenser dryer etc.

What did I fuck up? I know the obvious needed to change lines condenser dryer with the compressor

but could it be something more simple, or doesnt sound like it?

2000 dakota
 
M92PV4U said:
Sparks from where?
Click to expand...

clutch it looked

was stupid hot when i shut it off

i hope its not the old compressor went and blew chunks all over it?

how hars shoukd clutch be to turn by hand
 
fordguy said:
clutch it looked

was stupid hot when i shut it off

i hope its not the old compressor went and blew chunks all over it?

how hars shoukd clutch be to turn by hand
Click to expand...
Check the clearance between the clutch, it should be very close. The compressor (by turning the shaft) should have some resistance, the bearing after removing the belt should turn freely.
 
bad zuki said:
*checks cliff notes.

Ac Doesn't work. You sure about that?

The AC clutch has a seperate bearing compaired to the internals. Due to the ongoing covid-19 pandemic, I don't trust new parts.
Click to expand...

i just remembered, when I got it almost 2 years ago, it looked like it got dropped. I pried the pulley until it was aligned, but maybe something bent in the clutch.

Its an OE sanden so I kept it

clutch a pain to change?
 
NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the new clutch.

Pretty good write up (I only skimmed it)

AC clutch replacement w/pics and instructions - DodgeForum.com

2nd Gen Ram Tech - AC clutch replacement w/pics and instructions - My symptom was the AC would start getting warmer until there was just heavy slightly cool air blowing out of the vents. The quote was $410 to replace the AC clutch or $550 to replace the compressor. so being thrifty I jumped on...
dodgeforum.com
 
Mine didnt let the sparks out though. It let the metal out:frown:
 
Ordered another Denso from amazon, kind of hard to turn, same reistance to turn the shaft as mine thats on the truck now

so either thats normal, or theyre both bad (unlikely as bought almoat a year apart)

When compressor engages, the clutch kind of slips - pulley moves just fine with the belt, but clutch doesnt - maybe like 20 RPM? But when I try to spin the clutch by hand, same resistance as always

Any ideas? Im kind of stumped. I spun mine on the 2020 f250 gasser, and it spun maybe 4 times easier than either of the densos. I could spin the clutch with ine finger basically
 
M92PV4U said:
What is the gap between the clutch plate like disengaged?
Click to expand...

pulley spins freely, doesnt grab at all. Only issue is with clutch engaged. I dont have a feeler set, ut Ill eyeball it tomorrow and get back to you

I have gauges, vac pump, have done a decent amount if repairs, but this ine has me a little confused
 
Wow, we all completely misdiagnosed this one.

Put new compressor on, manually jumped it ti battery while fillig up r134, worked fine

hook the connector back up - slipping and same shit again! hook up to battery, no problem.

voltage measures 13.5, but with compressor engaged (load from clutch) it drops to 4.5

Fuck me sideways. 150 + 20 for r134 out the window, damned be the time.

Ill just hook up the relay and run a lead from the battery triggered by the ac wire. Or take the long route and troubleshoot the wire.


So yeah, an update, and still no AC!
 
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