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new 7.3 gas ford

Roc Doc said:
I would guess so. Less MPG's for not a lot less $. Only guy I know that used it was my buddy Kelly in his 8.60 drag car, I pitted for him a couple times and would help him getting staged and that shit would burn your eyes if you got too close to the exhaust.
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I’ve got a friend in the Houston area that has a shop that does a lot of drag car stuff. For the high compression or supercharged or turbo cars he always sets them up on E85. He has a way to test for octane and does test because apparently E85 is not known for its quality control and octane rating can vary wildly
 
Roc Doc said:
Outside of the big metro counties, Phoenix and Tucson, you can get Ethanol free gas for like 20 cents more per gallon. I fill a Jerry can with some sta-ball for chainsaw and weedeater use.
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There's a few independent gas places in this area where you can get ethanol free gas. It's generally about 20 cents more like by you.
 
Roc Doc said:
I would guess so. Less MPG's for not a lot less $. Only guy I know that used it was my buddy Kelly in his 8.60 drag car, I pitted for him a couple times and would help him getting staged and that shit would burn your eyes if you got too close to the exhaust.
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makes no sense to use it in a dd. but if i had more fuel injector/fuel pump i would do the flex fuel tune on my f150 for shits and giggles.
 
SanDiegoCJ said:
There's a few independent gas places in this area where you can get ethanol free gas. It's generally about 20 cents more like by you.
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A few places here have it, but i think it's quite a bit more than .20/gallon over e10. I'll check next time I get some. I run it in everything that sits... mower, crawler, saws, string trimmer, etc.
 
JR4X said:
I’ve got a friend in the Houston area that has a shop that does a lot of drag car stuff. For the high compression or supercharged or turbo cars he always sets them up on E85. He has a way to test for octane and does test because apparently E85 is not known for its quality control and octane rating can vary wildly
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If he's talking pump e85, he's testing for ethanol percentage, not octane.

There's a little tester that's just a graduated cylinder, you fill it up to a certain point with fuel and then add a certain amount of water. The ethanol will settle out (iirc) and show you your actual ethanol content

With efi cars, or anything with a return line, you can just use an ethanol content sensor. My local pump e85 is always 68-70%.
 
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Ummduh said:
If he's talking pump e85, he's testing for ethanol percentage, not octane.

There's a little tester that's just a graduated cylinder, you fill it up to a certain point with fuel and then add a certain amount of water. The ethanol will settle out (iirc) and show you your actual ethanol content
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Yes and yes. If it doesn’t have the correct amount of ethanol in it, the octane rating won’t be adequate for the crazy hot tunes, hot air, etc. tomato tomato. We’re both saying the same thing, you are more accurate in your description of the test. If the eth content is lower than expected his customers aluminum engines are getting torched. And apparently it is common for E85 to be more like E60 on any given day.
 
JR4X said:
Yes and yes. If it doesn’t have the correct amount of ethanol in it, the octane rating won’t be adequate for the crazy hot tunes, hot air, etc. tomato tomato. We’re both saying the same thing, you are more accurate in your description of the test. If the eth content is lower than expected his customers aluminum engines are getting torched. And apparently it is common for E85 to be more like E60 on any given day.
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From what I've read, pump ethanol percentage seems to be pretty regional. And seasonal. I haven't witnessed it here yet, but the ethanol percent gets cut down to keep flex fuel cars starting in the cold.

Seems like most Midwest states get e70 pretty consistent, unless you can find a "blending station".
 
And e85 adds 30% fuel consumption. Why people on corn need more pump/injector with bigger boost. Sometimes just more injector does it but at some point you run out of pump at full boost
 
I have a 23 F350 srw FX4. 3.73 with OEM gooseneck setup. 19200 miles in the year I've owned it.
Towed 550 miles with 9000# behind it last weekend. NC to WV. Averaged 9.6 hand calculated.
Towing our 8800# camper I generally get 8.5-9 mpg. I can maintain whatever speed I need to, just gotta get used to 4000 rpm on occasion vs lower RPM from a diesel.
I had a 22 6.7 truck previously. I don't miss it at all. Kinda wish I had ordered a long bed for a little more towing stability with the camper behind it. With my crawler on the GN, no issues.
 
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one like this would be great

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JTreadway said:
I have a 23 F350 srw FX4. 3.73 with OEM gooseneck setup. 19200 miles in the year I've owned it.
Towed 550 miles with 9000# behind it last weekend. NC to WV. Averaged 9.6 hand calculated.
Towing our 8800# camper I generally get 8.5-9 mpg. I can maintain whatever speed I need to, just gotta get used to 4000 rpm on occasion vs lower RPM from a diesel.
I had a 22 6.7 truck previously. I don't miss it at all. Kinda wish I had ordered a long bed for a little more towing stability with the camper behind it. With my crawler on the GN, no issues.
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Have you done a cost comparison to see where you are $/mile compared to the 6.7?

My little ecoboost is 2/3 the cost per 10,000 miles that my old 7.3 diesel was. Same mileage loaded just as heavy, 3mpg better empty. Half the price on oil changes and easier on tires. Of course less cost at pump.

Asking because I’d kind of like to drive a 7.3 gasser to see if it would be a good upgrade for my ecoboost when the time comes.
 
Ditchrunner said:
Have you done a cost comparison to see where you are $/mile compared to the 6.7?

My little ecoboost is 2/3 the cost per 10,000 miles that my old 7.3 diesel was. Same mileage loaded just as heavy, 3mpg better empty. Half the price on oil changes and easier on tires. Of course less cost at pump.

Asking because I’d kind of like to drive a 7.3 gasser to see if it would be a good upgrade for my ecoboost when the time comes.
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Not specifically. I do my own maintenance and such, so I can only compare those costs based on parts cost. Obviously, much cheaper for the 7.3
My 6.7 truck got right at 2 more MPG. Based on a fuel cost, the 7.3 wins marginally.
My main driving factor was the CP4 potential issues with the 6.7. I was also able to trade in my 22 for a very fair price compared to the new 23.
 
Ditchrunner said:
Have you done a cost comparison to see where you are $/mile compared to the 6.7?

My little ecoboost is 2/3 the cost per 10,000 miles that my old 7.3 diesel was. Same mileage loaded just as heavy, 3mpg better empty. Half the price on oil changes and easier on tires. Of course less cost at pump.

Asking because I’d kind of like to drive a 7.3 gasser to see if it would be a good upgrade for my ecoboost when the time comes.
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The upgrade is the chassis. I drove a 3.5 when I had my 5.0 truck in the shop. I was impressed with the low end tq. My 5.0 whipple 23 gets 17 or so the way I drive. It’s a 4x4 excab. And that 3.5 felt just as good below 2k. My 7.3 is hooked to a trailer 95% of the time. And I have never felt a shortage of power.
 
So I just got back from a 3800 miles round trip to play out west in Colorado and Utah. I have 2022 with 4.30 gears and the 7.3 and averaged 7.7 mpg's on the lie-o-meter. Now that is towing a combined weight of 27,400 lbs. The only time I wish I had more power was going up the ike gauntlet ( as tfl likes to call it) 7-8 percent grade for 8 miles. I was in second gear at 35 mph but I just got in behind some truckers. Overall I love the truck!
 

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Do you 7.3 gasser guys get a random hanging pedal at low throttle? Such as easing across parking lot at say 10 mph, let off pedal and the truck keeps the throttle applied for an extra second or two? Really fuckin annoying
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Do you 7.3 gasser guys get a random hanging pedal at low throttle? Such as easing across parking lot at say 10 mph, let off pedal and the truck keeps the throttle applied for an extra second or two? Really fuckin annoying
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I also have the fucking hill roll back assisr, ie. release brakes but truck doesnt roll

I would love me a custom tune to fix all this shit, and maybe a blower

my 2020 f250 onoy has 22k miles, gonna be grandpas cherry truck one day :flipoff2: just waiting its all paid off.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Do you 7.3 gasser guys get a random hanging pedal at low throttle? Such as easing across parking lot at say 10 mph, let off pedal and the truck keeps the throttle applied for an extra second or two? Really fuckin annoying
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All the 6.2’s I drove did that. My 6.8 does that. Just one of the super annoying things about DBW and the increasingly invasive torque management bullshit they’re cramming into these things. Sensed load increase makes then rev themselves up. A/C comp kicking on, power steering pump draw.

If the 5.0 trucks I had did it I don’t remember it.
 
JR4X said:
All the 6.2’s I drove did that. My 6.8 does that. Just one of the super annoying things about DBW and the increasingly invasive torque management bullshit they’re cramming into these things. Sensed load increase makes then rev themselves up. A/C comp kicking on, power steering pump draw.

If the 5.0 trucks I had did it I don’t remember it.
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My old 5.8 Bronco wouldn't always come out of cruise by tapping the brakes, and the pedal would be super hard like no vac assist. Didn't do it all the time, and never did figure out what the problem was. Early ABS, I think on the rear wheels only. 1990 MY
 
Roc Doc said:
My old 5.8 Bronco wouldn't always come out of cruise by tapping the brakes, and the pedal would be super hard like no vac assist. Didn't do it all the time, and never did figure out what the problem was. Early ABS, I think on the rear wheels only. 1990 MY
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You had a leaky check valve at the booster and for some reason the primary switch (not sure what it would have been on that generation of cruise control) that kicks off the CC wasn't working thereby causing the secondary pressure one on the brake master to come into effect but because there was little to no brake boost you had to push way harder.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You had a leaky check valve at the booster and for some reason the primary switch (not sure what it would have been on that generation of cruise control) that kicks off the CC wasn't working thereby causing the secondary pressure one on the brake master to come into effect but because there was little to no brake boost you had to push way harder.
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If I would tap the brakes the CC would then disengage, and going back to the pedal everything was then normal. It was like borrowing someones car where you have to jiggle the key a special way to get it to start.
 
Roc Doc said:
My old 5.8 Bronco wouldn't always come out of cruise by tapping the brakes, and the pedal would be super hard like no vac assist. Didn't do it all the time, and never did figure out what the problem was. Early ABS, I think on the rear wheels only. 1990 MY
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The vac booster and RABS unit on my 93 failed at pretty much the same time. I put hydroboost on it and got kick ass brakes back. But I have to push on the pedal pretty good for it to turn my cruise off. You are correct, RABS stood for rear antilock brakes system and it is just a shitty variable proportioning valve basically. The system had no way to know if the front tires weren’t skidding but the rear were. When they get weird you just have no brakes one push of the pedal. Then normal brakes again on the next push.
 
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Roc Doc said:
If I would tap the brakes the CC would then disengage, and going back to the pedal everything was then normal. It was like borrowing someones car where you have to jiggle the key a special way to get it to start.
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Yeah, that would be the fault of the "primary" switch. IDK if they tied it into the brake light switch in that generation of cruise control like they did on the later ones or if they used a discrete switch.

JR4X said:
The booster and RABS unit on my 93 failed at pretty much the same time. I put hudroboost on it and got kick ass brakes back. But I have to push on the pedal pretty good for it to turn my cruise off. You are correct, RABS stood for rear antilock brakes system and it just a shitty variable proportioning valve basically. The system had no way to know if the front tires weren’t skidding but the rear were. When they get weird you just have no brakes one push of the pedal. Then normal brakes again on the next push.
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That reminds me.....

Sometimes my RABS would erroneously go off. But only when applying the brakes lightly on slight downhills. So I'd be like exiting a parking lot and "whoops, no rear brakes + mushy pedal". Was kind of comical and not very dangerous but it was also annoying so that module went in the trash. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Yeah, that would be the fault of the "primary" switch. IDK if they tied it into the brake light switch in that generation of cruise control like they did on the later ones or if they used a discrete switch.


That reminds me.....

Sometimes my RABS would erroneously go off. But only when applying the brakes lightly on slight downhills. So I'd be like exiting a parking lot and "whoops, no rear brakes + mushy pedal". Was kind of comical and not very dangerous but it was also annoying so that module went in the trash. :laughing:
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I tail ended a minivan in a 1990 F350 work truck back in the 90’s because of that. Punk kid, towing a loaded trailer with no trailer brakes. Traffic stopped fast and on that particular pedal push I got front brakes only. Flat spotted the front tires only as I skidded inside of the van pushing the rear door all the way to the back of the back seat. Pushed the van into the car in front of it. I was very uninsurable for a while
 
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