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Need knuckle id

Bent70

Bent70

BootyfabR
Joined
May 20, 2020
Messages
44
Loc
Cotati,ca
I cant find this part number L 48201 c1
Axle is a custom dynatrac balljoint 60 from around early 2000

Its a 4 bolt spindle with what appears to be a stock mid high steer casting.

Cant find any legacy dynatrac parts or info at that off the web.

Was replacing balljoints and didnt fawking look to see if it was cracked, which it was.
 

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Bent70 said:
I cant find this part number L 48201 c1
Axle is a custom dynatrac balljoint 60 from around early 2000

Its a 4 bolt spindle with what appears to be a stock mid high steer casting.

Cant find any legacy dynatrac parts or info at that off the web.

Was replacing balljoints and didnt fawking look to see if it was cracked, which it was.
Click to expand...
Dude.... is that spacer and stuff just booger welded to the top of the knuckle???
 
It was machined for d44 arms i believe. Spacers are tacked and back of arm to knuckle. I guess the bolts liked to work loose so those are all drilled and wire tied too. Yea the weld end is a lil boogered but the rest is decent, but some is cracked some isnt.
 
I' ve been reserching there never was **** availiable for pre superduty balljoint knuckles in the aftermarket. This setup was done to get 5 lug back in the day. Problem is i dont wanna dump to much into it. But unless i get another dodge knuckle my only option is maybe back to ford knuckles.
I was hoping i could use later 1st gen superduty knuckles or the trailgear fabricated ones, but i would have to ditch my existing 35spline outers to a custom cut or change to all superduty outers.
The later knuckles are an 1" or so more in depth than the current old dodge ones...making the spindle extend past the existing stub. Oh well.
I need to grab some obs ford outers and compare them from my brother parts pile
 
I think they are ford 35sp outers and redrilled/tapped spindles. I need to compare with a complete obs axle at our shop.
 

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Measured my outer stubs. Center of ujoint cap to end of spline right?
Im getting 12" which is chevy/dodge i believe.
 
Bent70 said:
Measured my outer stubs. Center of ujoint cap to end of spline right?
Im getting 12" which is chevy/dodge i believe.
Click to expand...
12" center to tip is Chevy/Dodge kingpin length. Should have a 1.5" bearing journal right up against the back of the yoke about 1.5" long.

How much engagement snout/depth is there on the knuckle side of that spindle? Looks Ford to me, but depending on bearing race and thrust washer stack up it is possible to use Ford spindles with Chevy stubs. Short (~3/8") is TTB, long (~3/4" IIRC) is straight axle. Won't matter for what hubs fit it but could have an impact on alternate options. Related, is the caliper mount sandwiched between the spindle and knuckle? If so, how thick is its flange?
 
Last edited:
ScottRS said:
12" center to tip is Chevy/Dodge kingpin length. Should have a 1.5" bearing journal right up against the back of the yoke about 1.5" long.

How much engagement snout/depth is there on the knuckle side of that spindle? Looks Ford to me, but depending on bearing race and thrust washer stack up it is possible to use Ford spindles with Chevy stubs. Short (~3/8") is TTB, long (~3/4" IIRC) is straight axle. Won't matter for what hubs fit it but could have an impact on alternate options. Related, is the caliper mount sandwiched between the spindle and knuckle? If so, how thick is its flange?
Click to expand...
Spindle snout is 13/16"
Caliper mount is 5/16"
 
Spindle appears to be redrilled Ford straight axle.

With the Ford spindle, I'd expect Ford wheel hubs, but the stub will be too long (Ford stub is ~11.4") to line up with the locking hub properly. One place to cheat a bit is on the inner wheel bearing, if the D60 carrier bearing race is used instead of the wheel bearing race, that gains about 1/8". Does this have locking hubs or drive flanges? It was a thing back in the day to trim Chevy stubs down to Ford length, pretty easy to chopsaw a little off.

You can probably use Ford balljoint/wheelbearing knuckles (92-98 IIRC) and most of the rest of your stuff should swap. There's not much aftermarket, it's probably junkyard or nothing, but it's an option if you want to normalize it a bit. Not sure where that'd put you on re-landing that high arm though, never tried that.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Can we get more pics of the shock setup? It looks "promising". :laughing: :flipoff2:

Screenshot 2025-10-22 at 8.27.45 AM.png
Click to expand...
Hey this was a late 90s -early 2000s build that was actually wheeled often...im in the middle of figuring out and changing wear items.:flipoff2: fawker....think massey build if you know:grinpimp:
 
ScottRS said:
Spindle appears to be redrilled Ford straight axle.

With the Ford spindle, I'd expect Ford wheel hubs, but the stub will be too long (Ford stub is ~11.4") to line up with the locking hub properly. One place to cheat a bit is on the inner wheel bearing, if the D60 carrier bearing race is used instead of the wheel bearing race, that gains about 1/8". Does this have locking hubs or drive flanges? It was a thing back in the day to trim Chevy stubs down to Ford length, pretty easy to chopsaw a little off.

You can probably use Ford balljoint/wheelbearing knuckles (92-98 IIRC) and most of the rest of your stuff should swap. There's not much aftermarket, it's probably junkyard or nothing, but it's an option if you want to normalize it a bit. Not sure where that'd put you on re-landing that high arm though, never tried that.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info scott👍
It has warn hubs and for the time being im just going to get a dodge knuckle to modify like this one. This was supposed to be a "turn key" wheeler while i build my commando on the side. I havnt wheeled my own rig in over 10yrs....
 
If the high arm is d44-ish but bolted (not studs and cone washers) that's probably (or at least a contributor to) why it's loosening up and wiggling. I'd try to get at least studs and cones in there if at all possible. I only see two fasteners in the pic, not sure if that's because of the angle or because that's all there is?
 
If those are Dodge CAD knuckles (they look like it, I have a set on the floor in my garage) a set of 92-97 ford BJ knuckles will bolt up. I have a highsteer setup on mine with a proper machined knuckle, cone washers, studs, ect. from Sky's Offroad. The calipers are different so keep that in mind.
 
Bent70 said:
The later knuckles are an 1" or so more in depth than the current old dodge ones...making the spindle extend past the existing stub. Oh well.
Click to expand...

I have thought about milling the face of those 99-04 Ford knuckles thinner to match the others...
 
u2slow said:
I have thought about milling the face of those 99-04 Ford knuckles thinner to match the others...
Click to expand...
That crossed my mind last night....then id get the fabed trailgear knuckles. Maybe down the road if i break these.
 
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