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Neapco 1350 CV angle

Nice, is that a Toyota? And did you do anything to it?

​​​​​​Nope, 1350 I think it’s a spicer. I’ve ran it for years on my rig.
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Any more info on this? Any part numbers or anything on it? A 1350 CV pulling 38* without mods could be useful to some. As this thread shows, guys are die grinding to get 32*
 
What does it pull if you spin the shaft to where the U joint cap facing us in the pic is pointed at the ground

I’ll check it tomorrow. It has numbers on it. I’ll get em and post em. I broke the flange end last trip to sand hollow and had to order a new one. These things are a bitch to put together. I ground the caps a little to clearance them. I’ve run this hard for years without issue.
 
9F6DE696-BE56-4C7D-B69A-D210D2948170.jpeg 3E97A810-BC95-410C-8DE3-51EDE09D0AB7.jpeg 2F300A49-FBDA-4F1C-AAB8-DE18194D8805.jpeg 096A7D06-DEEE-41FA-9245-C8F49434EAF7.jpeg BF8E5A68-75CD-4740-9495-0BDD927B235A.jpeg BB7B154D-9635-489A-AE0A-5115CF304CA9.jpeg 1D05F799-0AA4-4532-864F-EA9E3D274CF2.jpeg E830BFF7-7C69-4725-A9F3-4A7C1ADE37B0.jpeg Okay, took some more pics this morning. Rotated it in several different ways. Shaft was leveled. Numbers are all that’s on it. You can see where I clearanced it.
 
OK, so you clearances it and it has a useable 35 degrees it looks like. Nice for sure but nothing too out of the ordinary.
 
OK, so you clearances it and it has a useable 35 degrees it looks like. Nice for sure but nothing too out of the ordinary.

Not claiming it’s anything out of the ordinary. You were asking if you could get 32 degrees, no? Why yes, yes you can.:flipoff2:
 
Not claiming it’s anything out of the ordinary. You were asking if you could get 32 degrees, no? Why yes, yes you can.:flipoff2:

I wasn't asking I don't think? Hell I don't even remember...lol. I guess I'm confused because you said you clearanced it like the rest of us. Maybe I'm missing something, I've been welding all day long.
 
I wasn't asking I don't think? Hell I don't even remember...lol. I guess I'm confused because you said you clearanced it like the rest of us. Maybe I'm missing something, I've been welding all day long.

Hell maybe you didn’t. :grinpimp: I’ve been in the garage working on trying to shoehorn 6 cubic yards of pos engine into 3 cubic yards of space in my buggy all day myself. At this point I’m so damn worn out, I don’t know who was asking what. Hope the rest of your weekend goes better.:flipoff2:
 
Hell maybe you didn’t. :grinpimp: I’ve been in the garage working on trying to shoehorn 6 cubic yards of pos engine into 3 cubic yards of space in my buggy all day myself. At this point I’m so damn worn out, I don’t know who was asking what. Hope the rest of your weekend goes better.:flipoff2:

I was asking haha. I was also under the impression you were getting 35-38* usable degrees without clearancing it so I was thinking with some clearancing it could go over 40*.

I'd still like to know what it is out of and if I could buy one new when the time comes. I'd much rather spend the time clearancing to get 35-38* instead of 32* like the neapco.
 
It’s a basic spicer cv. Flange fits a chev I think? Been so long since I did it I can’t remember.:homer:
 
Okay, took some more pics this morning. Rotated it in several different ways. Shaft was leveled. Numbers are all that’s on it. You can see where I clearanced it.

That looks like a 3R CV from a Chevy, did you pull it apart or just trim the outer tabs down that would hit the H yoke
 
Clearanced the ears a little.

Did you pull the CV apart? I’m assuming you did, I trimmed the ears externally and saw no gain in angle.

I have a few driveshafts laying around and one was a 3R and thought I’d get away easy with just an external trim
 
Did you pull the CV apart? I’m assuming you did, I trimmed the ears externally and saw no gain in angle.

I have a few driveshafts laying around and one was a 3R and thought I’d get away easy with just an external trim

No, didn’t pull it apart. I had a shop build the driveline and told the guy I wanted a 1350 cv.
 
So what's the word on this? I had a local shop build me a shaft with the Neapco 1350 CV because the book says 32 degrees. What they actually made was used chinese Rockford Driveline house brand 1350 that went about 20 degrees in one direction and 30ish in the other. I returned it and I need to get something made ASAP. I'm sick of dealing with driveshaft shops, it's never a positive experience for me.
 
A Neapco CV will pull 32* on one plane but less on the other. So you or the shop need to modify it make it work at 32* on all planes.
 
I wonder why they list it at 32 degrees in their catalog. Deceptive marketing. I didn't get a Neapco, I got the chicom "copy" and we know how those often are. At about 22 degrees in the other direction the seal inside opened right up, so I wasn't going to spend the time on it.
 
I have all the parts listed previously in this thread sitting on the shelf but have not assembled the driveshaft yet (still fawking around with wiring). My local shop that deals in NEAPCO swears they will flex the advertised amount "if assembled properly". :grinpimp:
 
I wonder why they list it at 32 degrees in their catalog. Deceptive marketing. I didn't get a Neapco, I got the chicom "copy" and we know how those often are. At about 22 degrees in the other direction the seal inside opened right up, so I wasn't going to spend the time on it.
I'd agree, if it won't spin at 32 degrees, it won't do 32 degrees IMO. A driveshaft that droops static to crazy angles is nifty for a SEMA truck that gets craned into place and never moves, but not actually useful.

I didn't measure what the one I have from JEReel would do; before I ordered it I measured the lengths and angles at both ends of travel for what I needed, cycled it through to make sure they never got worse than those, called and gave them that info, and they got to building. Worst of it was about 24 degrees at the transfer case IIRC. When it got to me, bolted it in, spin-cycle-checked it, good to go. It gets pretty scary close to the chassis (within 1/4" at droop limit and within 1/2" at stuff) but it doesn't bind. But it's also nearly four feet long, perks of building a bus.
 
I wonder why they list it at 32 degrees in their catalog. Deceptive marketing. I didn't get a Neapco, I got the chicom "copy" and we know how those often are. At about 22 degrees in the other direction the seal inside opened right up, so I wasn't going to spend the time on it.
It is irritating and stupid. That is why I started this thread. Neapco isnt wrong in that it will pull 32* of angle....if its oriented in a certain way and the hubs stay unlocked....but it wont work if assembled from the factory. I think the difference is 6* or so. As it spins, it will do 32* max then turn and bind at 26*. Modifying it will let it spin freely at 32* of angle.

If you think that is dumb, check out the 3R double cardan. That one will pull near 40* in one direction but 22* in the other direction stock....it seems the die grinder needs to come out for most of these CVs to pull the max angle continuously.
 
Why even run a double cardon if you have length in the driveline? Just to turn up the pinion a bit? or is the clearacne an issue with the biffer diameter? A standard 1410 will give you the angles and has more strength.
 
Why even run a double cardon if you have length in the driveline? Just to turn up the pinion a bit? or is the clearacne an issue with the biffer diameter? A standard 1410 will give you the angles and has more strength.
In my case, because of what the rear pinion angle does/doesn't during travel, and because as ridiculous as it might sound, I need the upper joint length to keep the tube off the chassis at full droop. I could have designed to use a 1410 single joint if I'd thought-through doing that, but I didn't. Also, a 1350 is strong enough for my power level, and using that all over the place means one spare joint size in my box. As my front pinion is already chewing slightly on the upper link with a 1350, going 1410 there would be a real problem.
 
Finally got around to assembling the joint. I'm measuring about 32 degrees in one direction and 28 degrees in the other.

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Finally got around to assembling the joint. I'm measuring about 32 degrees in one direction and 28 degrees in the other.

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26733.jpeg




26741.jpeg


26736.jpeg
Thanks Eric, thanks for that info! Is that the neapco 1350 CV that was posted originally?

did you pull it back apart to pull a full 32*?
 
Thanks Eric, thanks for that info! Is that the neapco 1350 CV that was posted originally?

did you pull it back apart to pull a full 32*?
This is the part #'s that I posted earlier in the thread. Have not pulled it off for clearancing yet. Ugh.
 
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