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Neapco 1350 CV angle

Yeah, it said 32 in the catalog but I was seeing if that is true or not, I am not sure if it is actually true.

DesertCJ and rattle_snake do you remember what CV head part # you had for yours that didnt go to 32*

I'll look at my receipts tonight when I get home...

It is possible that I mixed some Neapco parts with some Spicer parts. I'll have to check...
 
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I just called up the local driveline guy and asked him if he stocked the part # I listed and he said he carries 1350 AAM CV's in stock and like you all mentioned he said there is no way they flex to 32* without modification. He said 25-26*

That is AAM though, I will go to their catalog now.
 
im pretty sure neapco knows to measure the angle

apiqspqpg__59750.1614925184.jpg?c=2.jpg
 
In that catalog they claim the 1410 CV pulls less angle...30 degrees. Maybe that is an honest out of the box 30....:rolleyes:

I have a toyota CV from an '85 laying around, I can measure but from I what I read they pull 30+ out of the box. I dont know if it would like the abuse from a 6.2 LS, a doubler, 1 tons and 43s though.

Jess @ HAD typically puts toyota u joints as roughly equal to 1350 as far as strength. Definitely better than 1310.

They good thing about them is the commonality, 99% of toyota's you see run them, so bumming a spare is usually easy. Only a few different patterns on the flanges.

The down side is that they have not been made for a long time and are getting hard to come by.
 
Yeah they do 32 degrees that direction, turn it 90 degrees and get back to me:flipoff2:

if you actually look at the pic you will see it says 30 degrees and if you turn it 90 degrees it will do 30 too :homer:

youre just mad you bought the wrong cv :lmao::flipoff2:
 
because you have a 1410 cv in your hands? :laughing: because neapco is so dumb they are just scamming us by measuring it wrong?

This thread is about 1350 CVs. I suggested he go 1410. We have two guys saying they had to clearance a 1350 to get 30 degrees + and one guy pointing to a catalog and a picture saying YUP. Have you ever even held a 1350 CV in your hands? I probably just machined the parts ro get 30 degrees for fun...
 
This thread is about 1350 CVs. I suggested he go 1410. We have two guys saying they had to clearance a 1350 to get 30 degrees + and one guy pointing to a catalog and a picture saying YUP. Have you ever even held a 1350 CV in your hands? I probably just machined the parts ro get 30 degrees for fun...

i posted the 1410 pic as an example that neapco actually does use an angle finder to measure their cvs, i also then posted examples of neapco list different cv's at different angles, why list a cv as doing 22 degrees, another at 26, another at 30, and then one at 32 degrees if theyre just going to lie and be wrong? shouldnt they list them all at 32?

you bought a ford 1350 cv and it didnt do 32 degrees so that means ALL 1350 cvs wont do 32 degrees :homer:
 
i posted the 1410 pic as an example that neapco actually does use an angle finder to measure their cvs, i also then posted examples of neapco list different cv's at different angles, why list a cv as doing 22 degrees, another at 26, another at 30, and then one at 32 degrees if theyre just going to lie and be wrong? shouldnt they list them all at 32?

you bought a ford 1350 cv and it didnt do 32 degrees so that means ALL 1350 cvs wont do 32 degrees :homer:

Wrong. I got a Ford 1350 CV and gave up on it because I couldn't get it apart to machine it for the tubing I wanted to use.

I then bought...

N3-83-024X
N3-26-757
N3-28-2947X

and assembled, measured, machined, measured again, assembled and now run those parts.

Any other comments from the internet pointing, no experience having peanut gallery?
 
Wrong. I got a Ford 1350 CV and gave up on it because I couldn't get it apart to machine it for the tubing I wanted to use.

I then bought...

N3-83-024X
N3-26-757
N3-28-2947X

and assembled, measured, machined, measured again, assembled and now run those parts.

Any other comments from the internet pointing, no experience having peanut gallery?

what you bought was ford 1350 cv parts that are not advertised as 32 degrees so thank you for confirming youre full of shit

your part numbers
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1117_neapco_n3_26_757__cv_h_yoke_1350_series_for_ford.html
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...uble_cardan_cv_flange_yoke_1350_series_f.html
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...v_ball_stud_yoke_1350_series_to_fit_2_in.html
 
Full of shit? Cool story. OP, you have the Neapco part #'s I used. I'm out...

and i looked up your part numbers, they are advertised as ford cv parts and no where (that i found) are they advertised as doing 32 degrees.

this thread is about N921048G which is advertised as doing 32 degrees and whether or not it actually does 32 degrees, this thread is not about N3-83-024X N3-26-757 N3-28-2947X which you use an argument that N921048G does not do 32 degrees :homer:

im out too
 
. . .
this thread is not about N3-83-024X N3-26-757 N3-28-2947X which you use an argument that N921048G does not do 32 degrees :homer:
. . .
Wow. Am I in chit chat or tech? LOL.

BTW, N921048G (the complete CV head unit) is made from 3 part numbers: N3-83-024X N3-26-757 N3-28-2947X so they are one and the same. Interestingly, N3-28-2947X is separately listed as supporting a max joint angle of 15 degrees so its not clear how the complete assembly can max out at 32 . . .
 
Wow. Am I in chit chat or tech? LOL.

BTW, N921048G (the complete CV head unit) is made from 3 part numbers: N3-83-024X N3-26-757 N3-28-2947X so they are one and the same. Interestingly, N3-28-2947X is separately listed as supporting a max joint angle of 15 degrees so its not clear how the complete assembly can max out at 32 . . .

This...I pieced it together like Desertcj and had to do the same thing he did to get decent equal angles. I then had a buddy buy the kit to do his since it claimed 32* even though mine didn't hit that angle using the same parts/ well part numbers. The kit was close to 32* but only one way, the opposite way hit the zerk before anything close to that angle and 90* of those 2 were equal angles but no where near 32* (I don't recall the angle number so I won't list anything.) Had to clearance everything as listed above.

Soooo neapco didn't necessarily lie but they did list the max angle of only one side, in my opinion they should be listed as the smallest angle being max not the largest. Kind of a shady sales pitch.

Edit: I also couldn't tell you the opposing angle of the 32* without a zerk fitting as I used what I had/was given to me to build with.
 
This...I pieced it together like Desertcj and had to do the same thing he did to get decent equal angles. I then had a buddy buy the kit to do his since it claimed 32* even though mine didn't hit that angle using the same parts/ well part numbers. The kit was close to 32* but only one way, the opposite way hit the zerk before anything close to that angle and 90* of those 2 were equal angles but no where near 32* (I don't recall the angle number so I won't list anything.) Had to clearance everything as listed above.

Soooo neapco didn't necessarily lie but they did list the max angle of only one side, in my opinion they should be listed as the smallest angle being max not the largest. Kind of a shady sales pitch.

Edit: I also couldn't tell you the opposing angle of the 32* without a zerk fitting as I used what I had/was given to me to build with.

i stand corrected, i apologize for being full of shit
 
I'd also run a Toyota cv using Toyota u-joints any day compared to any standard 1350 joints. They could be shaved to get good angles as well. They've held up good for me over the years and much cheaper to build (if you can find one). I also used only flanged style shafts with Toyota u-joints, I've never tried toyota joints/ CV without a flange so I can't give my 2¢ there.
 
I'll give .02 on Toyota stuff...lol. The Japanese stuff is made with samurai sword steel and is tough. The Precision/parts store replacement joints are junk...
 
I'd also run a Toyota cv using Toyota u-joints any day compared to any standard 1350 joints. They could be shaved to get good angles as well. They've held up good for me over the years and much cheaper to build (if you can find one). I also used only flanged style shafts with Toyota u-joints, I've never tried toyota joints/ CV without a flange so I can't give my 2¢ there.

fwiw i have a toyota shaft on the front of my cummins tow rig and when the d70 in the rear decided to give up it took out the rear 1410 drive shaft and i ended up towing my buggy home the remaining 50 miles on the front toyota drive shaft :laughing: gross weight around 17k
 
I'll give .02 on Toyota stuff...lol. The Japanese stuff is made with samurai sword steel and is tough. The Precision/parts store replacement joints are junk...

100% in agreement, the only good toyota joint is a factory one
 
Going under the assumption I can get 30 degrees even if a little modification is needed these are the parts I'm going to use. They don't offer a complete head unit with the N3-83-024X flange (only one that fits Atlas flange) and 2.5 x 0.095" tube so the head unit needs to be pieced together. The prices are from Denny's Driveshaft but I will be ordering through the local supplier.

1350-CV.jpg
 
Thanks for all the info guys. It’s fucking dumb that they do that.

I had an old 3R CV from a Chevy, they known for garbage angles and it would pull 30 on one side and barely 20 on the other. I can see how manufacturers would claim 32 but not consistently when spinning :rolleyes:

Anyways, I measured out my toyota CV and it was pulling a constant 32-34 degrees. I think I will go that route with a 1410 slip.
 
I have a couple Toyota CV front shafts. I plan on using at least one of them.
 
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