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Neapco 1350 CV angle

06h3

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Does anyone have experience with Neapco 1350 CVs? They are claiming 32 degree max angle...that seems high and I thought achieving 32 degrees requires custom clearancing and considered high angle stuff.
Can anyone confirm/deny?

I’m running a single u joint on each end right now that pulls 30 degrees with success, I went this route to pull more angle as my front 1310 double cardan setup was binding at full droop after clocking my t case. I’d like to go back to a double cardan because I have some vibes when I have the hubs locked in 4 wheel drive and moving at higher speeds.

page 9-6 (like 100 pages in)

http://www.pbwdist.com/catalogs/Neapco driveline_catalog_2017.pdf

N921048G

thanks in advance
 
Interesting. I'm also looking for 1350 double cardan that can flex to 30 degrees. This particular unit requires a flange on the t-case output which I was hoping to avoid since the t-case already has a 1350 CV yoke. Before pulling the trigger on something like this I would definitely want to hold it in my hands and measure the actual angle.
 
Same, I’d like to see it in person too instead of waste money on it. Does anyone have a spicer pdf catalog? I couldn’t find one. I’m curious what their 1350CV is pulling
 
I used Neapco 1350 CV parts to build my front drive shaft. It didn't go to 30 degrees until I machined/clearanced the parts.
 
Same, I’d like to see it in person too instead of waste money on it. Does anyone have a spicer pdf catalog? I coudn’t find one. I’m curious what their 1350CV is pulling
I was trying to do this right now. Looks like Spicer royally fawked up their website in recent months. Used to be easy to find the catalogs. I have a bunch of Spicer catalogs on my personal computer which is not handy at the moment. I've spent a lot of time wading through these catalogs and don't recall any double cardans that allowed that much angle. The Northern Drivetrain website often lists specs for products but beware; I've bought based on the listed specs only to find that the assembled unit was something different.
 
I used Neapco 1350 CV parts to build my front drive shaft. It didn't go to 30 degrees until I machined/clearanced the parts.

That is what I was fearful of, it is stupid they list it to handle 32* even though it doesnt out of the box.
 
For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure a 1410 CV will do it. If I would have had the space, I would have gone 1410:grinpimp:
 
For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure a 1410 CV will do it. If I would have had the space, I would have gone 1410:grinpimp:

In that catalog they claim the 1410 CV pulls less angle...30 degrees. Maybe that is an honest out of the box 30....:rolleyes:

I have a toyota CV from an '85 laying around, I can measure but from I what I read they pull 30+ out of the box. I dont know if it would like the abuse from a 6.2 LS, a doubler, 1 tons and 43s though.
 
I spent some time digging on Northern Drivetrain and Dennys website. Assembled double cardan head units are few and far between. Seems like they all want to sell components. Northern lists the Neapco 1350 center yoke at 30 degrees and the Spicer equivalent at 26 degrees. But I'm sure the final result depends on the other components and especially what you are running on the t-case output.

I'd like to just call H.A.D. and have Jess build me what I need. But I tend to chew through a lot of driveshafts and would prefer cheap-ish off-the-shelf components that I can hack together.
 
I spent some time digging on Northern Drivetrain and Dennys website. Assembled double cardan head units are few and far between. Seems like they all want to sell components. Northern lists the Neapco 1350 center yoke at 30 degrees and the Spicer equivalent at 26 degrees. But I'm sure the final result depends on the other components and especially what you are running on the t-case output.

I'd like to just call H.A.D. and have Jess build me what I need. But I tend to chew through a lot of driveshafts and would prefer cheap-ish off-the-shelf components that I can hack together.

I am in the same boat, I almost called him but I view driveshafts as a consumable, just like tires and probably in my case, a bigger consumable then tires. Maybe buy one cry once but my thought is I will smack it on the biggest rock first trip out and it will be a vibrating piece of shit from there on out...
 
I am in the same boat, I almost called him but I view driveshafts as a consumable, just like tires and probably in my case, a bigger consumable then tires. Maybe buy one cry once but my thought is I will smack it on the biggest rock first trip out and it will be a vibrating piece of shit from there on out...
I just called both of my local Neapco suppliers. Neither has the unit on the shelf but both claim that if they publish 32 degrees then it will do 32 degrees. I'm temped to pull the trigger and see what happens.

According to Google, this part number corresponds to some Ford OEM application.
 
What's wrong with components? They're dirt simple to assemble...
Every time I've tried to deal with double cardans a hammer usually ends up going through the wall. LOL. But the main issue with components is the cross dimensions are fixed but other dimensions are not thus you don't know exactly how much it will flex until they are assembled.
 
What's wrong with components? They're dirt simple to assemble...

Every time I've tried to deal with double cardans a hammer usually ends up going through the wall. LOL. But the main issue with components is the cross dimensions are fixed but other dimensions are not thus you don't know exactly how much it will flex until they are assembled.

What he said! I fucking HATE disassembling double cardans lol I would rather pull a transfer case then deal with a DC.

That is what also concerns me, they are a ford application (maybe super duty) and I have read about guys claiming super duty double cardans not pulling shit for angle.
 
What he said! I fucking HATE disassembling double cardans lol I would rather pull a transfer case then deal with a DC.

That is what also concerns me, they are a ford application (maybe super duty) and I have read about guys claiming super duty double cardans not pulling shit for angle.

Geeze, it's not that bad:flipoff2:

I have a Ford SD 1350 CV that I was originally going to use. What I have definitely isn't the same. The Ford CV has Fomoco cast into it. I can confirm that the Ford CV doesn't pull shit for angle, but it will if you do this...
20180520_173416.jpg
My problem with the Ford CV is that I couldn't get the damn thing apart and I think the weld yoke is sized for metric tubing:rolleyes:
 
Was there anything else you had to do to get it to pull angle or just that cut?
 
Was there anything else you had to do to get it to pull angle or just that cut?

No just clearancing where needed through iterative process. Here's a cun-n-paste from link above.

======================================================================
Pulled the double cardan joint apart and measured the angles of where the u-joints contact the various parts. Started with the inner bridge and drive flange that are the most inner contacts.
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wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==


The main offender was the area where the grease zerk is, it allowed only 14*, the opposite side was 18*. So I ground it out carefully to leave the dust boot intact. Now both have 18*.
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wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==


Next was the flange side, they were about 16* so took them to 18*. Had to hog it out past the seal lip.
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wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

ACtC-3exiTsnmBw_3dQ7-iwdh7X8bGmRiRCtqdcL58yVJvZ4yigqoD-EM09aP_Wily8mM_hWA0jOse3NOppCNy3Kpy4GGoLvUJBF2IrEuHfYCBVqSf_tkCFoEmZ493IuYLqYhyrQdaneQ0lNbLDclzFO9-eZ=w947-h710-no
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==


At this point I reassembled the joint and checked for interference. The new bind point was on all the external surface so I went around and ground them until they were no longer the limiting factor.
ACtC-3dpFAJerXomCu5eNlW56VvswBZCGddD--wh-Z9aKjuBkl2TYbz67DZLsJjy7RHXz-4br5LRAOGFHKetSElgjmFT68IbwuzOYuUpMt1iuMMfCHZCmQo1QtiC0UFTRQTMUuAamV3Gfjlm36psSgz-gPLt=w947-h710-no
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==


Then measurements to see what I got. In theory 18* on each cross should get 36 total. It yielded 32 on one plane and 34 in the other. The contact point was the inner drive flange so I removed and hogged it out some more, to 20*. Reassembled and now its at 34 all around. So a major improvement from 27 to 34 (~25%). Compound angle is 38*
This should be enough to do what I want. Next step it to install the shaft in the truck, put it up on the lift and see where limits are. Way easier than turning the C's
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wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
 
Cool. Just the flange face and no need to modify the H yoke or ball assembly? What about the t-case flange? What are you getting for an angle after the mod?

[EDIT: The above was in response to DesertCJ's post. Rattle_snake thats also some good info!
 
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Sorry rattle_snake I was wondering if DesertCJ had to just make that single clearance he showed on page 1 or if it wouldnt last due to internals binding? If I could get away without tearing apart CV's I would prefer it, I hate tearing them apart.

What's your cost to do it :grinpimp:
 
Cool. Just the flange face and no need to modify the H yoke or ball assembly? What about the t-case flange? What are you getting for an angle after the mod?

Correct. Just some cleanup in the H. Ball assembly will allow more angle than I went with clearance for the u-joint caps themselves. Guessing a full effort on the inner bridge grinding further into the seal area could achieve 36 or more. No mods to drive flange. I got to 34* which was enough for my application.
 
Sorry rattle_snake I was wondering if DesertCJ had to just make that single clearance he showed on page 1 or if it wouldnt last due to internals binding? If I could get away without tearing apart CV's I would prefer it, I hate tearing them apart.

What's your cost to do it :grinpimp:

Ah Ok. My cost is $0 + beers. Stop in on your next road trip.
 
It's been a couple years since I messed with it but I'm pretty sure those hole saw cuts got the Ford CV to 30 degrees. The mods I did to the Neapco are similar to what's been shown, I just did it in a Bridgeport and there might have been something in a lathe. Die grinder obviously works as well.
 
Yeah, it said 32 in the catalog but I was seeing if that is true or not, I am not sure if it is actually true.

DesertCJ and rattle_snake do you remember what CV head part # you had for yours that didnt go to 32*
 
Yeah, it said 32 in the catalog but I was seeing if that is true or not, I am not sure if it is actually true.

DesertCJ and rattle_snake do you remember what CV head part # you had for yours that didnt go to 32*

its true because its straight from neapco and they list all their shit properly, hence some being listed 30 degrees some 22 degrees and some 26 degrees
 
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