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My SN95 Convertible for flashlight drags, autocross

DMG

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A friend started this project with a rust free 94 Mustang convertible 5mt 5.0

The Build:


94 gt with cobra badges and wheels.
5.0/5spd. 4.10 gears,
gt40p heads (ported), gt40 intake (ported lower)
65mm throttle body,
scorpion 1.7 roller rockers,
trick flow valve springs,
comp cams double roller timing set,
arp head studs, felpro mls gaskets,
BBK long tubes,
slp loudmouth header back exhaust,
moates quarter horse tuner

i am probably forgetting something

it wasn’t running due to some wiring issues when I picked it up. After a few hours of troubleshooting, setting the timing and swapping in the 460 injectors with 76mm maf, it runs pretty strong.







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I got it running well just in time for winter so it will sit on a battery tender until spring and may get hooked a bit on nice days.

pics of motor
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Since it is all bolt on shit, I may upgrade to Cobra brakes this winter.

also, 3rd gear grinds when I shift fast, especially if it’s cold so I ordered some Amsoil Synchromesh as I am an amsoil dealer.
 
Since it is all bolt on shit, I may upgrade to Cobra brakes this winter.

also, 3rd gear grinds when I shift fast, especially if it’s cold so I ordered some Amsoil Synchromesh as I am an amsoil dealer.

I did the Cobra brakes on my '95, it was 100% worth it. I could cook the brakes to nothing in that car just beating it on back roads, never had an issue after.

I never tried the syncromesh but mine did seem to like B&M TrickShift type-F.
 
I did the Cobra brakes on my '95, it was 100% worth it. I could cook the brakes to nothing in that car just beating it on back roads, never had an issue after.

I never tried the syncromesh but mine did seem to like B&M TrickShift type-F.

Did you use parts store cobra brake pads/caliper/rotors? I have heard they actually are a big upgrade but Hawk stuff has to be better.
 
Did you use parts store cobra brake pads/caliper/rotors? I have heard they actually are a big upgrade but Hawk stuff has to be better.

I'm sure it was an LMR kit or something like that. I bought it second hand. Everything but the braided lines were identical to my buddy's '95 Cobras. I'm sure performance pads would've made it better, I never wore mine out.
 
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No chassis stuff (strut tower brace, subframes, etc?) How bout roll-bar?

Even though the S197's are light years ahead in chassis rigidity I noticed huge improvements with the strut tower brace and ended up with a 6-pt Maximum Motorsports setup in mine.
 
No chassis stuff (strut tower brace, subframes, etc?) How bout roll-bar?

Even though the S197's are light years ahead in chassis rigidity I noticed huge improvements with the strut tower brace and ended up with a 6-pt Maximum Motorsports setup in mine.

It has a factory strut tower brace that needs to go back on. I am considering a cage. I will have to cage it to do hill climbs. Not sure yet.
 
Full length subframe connectors at minimum if it doesn't already have them would be worthwhile, SN95s aren't exactly ridgid. Anything you can do to stiffen up the chassis is worth the time and weight penalty. If you really get to beating on it hard torque box reinforcements wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
Full length subframe connectors at minimum if it doesn't already have them would be worthwhile, SN95s aren't exactly ridgid. Anything you can do to stiffen up the chassis is worth the time and weight penalty. If you really get to beating on it hard torque box reinforcements wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Would a cage be a good substitute for the connectors?
 
A 6 point would help a ton, but connectors are so cheap/easy that I can't imagine why a guy wouldn't do both.

I’ll look under it and see what is there, if anything.
 
Our local autocross track requires at minimum a roll bar in a convertible. It might be something to to check on.
 
Our local autocross track requires at minimum a roll bar in a convertible. It might be something to to check on.

Last time I autocrossed they made convertibles run with the top up. I hope that hasn’t changed.
 
Would a cage be a good substitute for the connectors?

The 6-point stiffened mine up a bunch. Mine does not have subframes but the S197 convertibles have additional diagonal bracing front/rear from the factory.

That's what I got in mine https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Mustang-Roll-Bars-2005-2014-Conv-C499.aspx

The lines are good, does not interfere with the top, almost invisible top up as to not draw any unwanted attention.

There's the 94-04:

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...Conv-C338.aspx

Shop around, there are a few other kits worth a look.
 
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I spy with my little eye...

If you are running SCCA autocross classes/events, they specifically ban nitrous under section 3.6B "other oxygen and/or nitrogen bearing additives are prohibited." At a minimum I'd expect them to ask you to disable the system / remove the bottle.

As far as I know the SCCA highly recommends roll bars but they are not required. I see lots of Miatas running top down. With a 'vert, I would strongly consider doing the SFCs and Cage as previously recommended.

I'm an autocross nerd. Feel free to pick my brain but my recommendations are worth what you paid for them.
 
As far as I know the SCCA highly recommends roll bars but they are not required. I see lots of Miatas running top down. With a 'vert, I would strongly consider doing the SFCs and Cage as previously recommended.

I'm an autocross nerd. Feel free to pick my brain but my recommendations are worth what you paid for them.
"1.2. Convertibles It is highly recommended that all convertible vehicles be equipped with an aftermarket roll bar that meets or exceeds the standards set in the Time Trials Safety Standard Level 2. (Section 2.1.1) However, Safety Standard Level 1 requires the vehicle meets at least one of the following criteria and is not subject to any of the listed exceptions: 1.2.1. Convertible vehicles up to and including the 2005 model year must have rollover protection meeting one of the following criteria: A. The vehicle is equipped with documented factory installed roll over protection. (Examples of manufacturer-documented roll over protection include hydroformed and reinforced a-pillars or windshield frame and factory installed roll bars and/or “pop-up” bars that are designated as roll over protection.) B. The vehicle is equipped with a commercially produced roll bar or roll cage which is described by the manufacturer to provide track-appropriate rollover protection. (E.g., “style” bars are not acceptable.) 1.2.2. Convertible vehicles of the 2006 model year or later. A. 2006+ model year cars must have a roll bar which meets 1.2.1. standards unless one of the following criteria is met: 1. The vehicle is six (6) cylinders, with the OE drivetrain and may only be naturally aspirated. 2. The vehicle is four (4) cylinders or less, with the OE drivetrain, including any forced-induction equipment. Note: This means that for 2006+ vehicles, if the engine is not the original equipment model as delivered in that vehicle, aftermarket forced induction has been installed, or the vehicle has more than six (6) cylinders or six (6) cylinders and forced induction of any type, the vehicle must have aftermarket rollover protection or documented factory rollover protection"

They added a bunch of stuff/exceptions since I last read....interesting..

I suppose 'technically' that might actually be the case/meet the requirements? In reality the rules are a bare minimum and I'd want nothing less than a 4-pt in one of these flexi-flyers to feel remotely safe. ymmv.
 
We have a good ford dyno tuner about an hour away so I sent it to him. Did 280 to the rear wheels which is ok for the parts on it. Unfirtunately it developed a miss that isnt spark or fuel (according to the dyno shop) so i need to pull the valve cover and see why cylinder 4 is dead now. If its a bottom end problem its getting a 351 block to support future shenanigans
 
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I spy with my little eye...

If you are running SCCA autocross classes/events, they specifically ban nitrous under section 3.6B "other oxygen and/or nitrogen bearing additives are prohibited." At a minimum I'd expect them to ask you to disable the system / remove the bottle.

As far as I know the SCCA highly recommends roll bars but they are not required. I see lots of Miatas running top down. With a 'vert, I would strongly consider doing the SFCs and Cage as previously recommended.

I'm an autocross nerd. Feel free to pick my brain but my recommendations are worth what you paid for them.
My friend that had the car before me was going to spray it. I plugged the holes and returned the nitrous stuff to him in a box. I like forced induction and dont like nitrous.
 
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My friend that had the car before me was going to spray it. I plugged the holes and returned the nitrous stuff to him in a box. I like forced induction and dont like nitrous.
Agreed. Needs a Paxton/Vortech/Procharger or maybe small set of twins...
 
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We have a good ford dyno tuner about an hour away so I sent it to him. Did 280 to the rear wheels which is ok for the parts on it. Unfirtunately it developed a miss that isnt spark or fuel (according to the dyno shop) so i need to pull the valve cover and see why cylinder 4 is dead now. If its a bottom end problem its getting a 351 block to support future shenanigans
4.8/5.3 time
you're gonna grenade the trans soon anyways

I regret sticking with the 302 in my mustang for this long
 
4.8/5.3 time
you're gonna grenade the trans soon anyways

I regret sticking with the 302 in my mustang for this long
If it is a cheap fix the 5.0 stays. I already fucked up the trans. 3rd gear synchro. will rebuild it.


6.0+Nissan 6 speed would be nicer.
 
4.8/5.3 time
you're gonna grenade the trans soon anyways

I regret sticking with the 302 in my mustang for this long
Yep on the trans. Had a very similarly built 95 back in the day with a 100 shot on it. Rebuilt the stock trans twice. 3rd time I grenaded it and replaced it with a Tremec TKO. I would not waste a dime on the stock T5.
 
4.8/5.3 time
you're gonna grenade the trans soon anyways

I regret sticking with the 302 in my mustang for this long
Been away from the old pushrods so long I forget the blocks like to split 'round 400whp mark.

Bolt up a main stud girdle and pray to your higher power?

 
Been away from the old pushrods so long I forget the blocks like to split 'round 400whp mark.

Bolt up a main stud girdle and pray to your higher power?

I would rather swap my stuff onto a stroker windsor short block.
 
that's just way too much doing
hate the build threads that are basically just a list of aftermarket parts bolted together
now your pile of mixed garbage from every make, booger welded together by someone that actually enjoys what they're doing and you've got a good time going
 
that's just way too much doing
hate the build threads that are basically just a list of aftermarket parts bolted together
now your pile of mixed garbage from every make, booger welded together by someone that actually enjoys what they're doing and you've got a good time going
I am about to drop $2300 for the ford performance T5 so zi will be somewhat committed to keepong it ford if I do that.
 
I am about to drop $2300 for the ford performance T5 so zi will be somewhat committed to keepong it ford if I do that.
nonononono
T5 is way too light duty for any serious use
they just don't have enough meat in them
 
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