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My recycle bucket

I'm curious what the temp change is across the cooler.
Now that it's running again, I got it hot (enough to boil the belly tank) and checked: about 5 degrees at 90 ambient. Which, considering return fuel is coming back to the hot side of the fuel cooler at about 115, is actually pretty respectable IMO. Still doesn't do much to help my realty, but because I was curious and had the temp gun out anyway, figured I'd circle back and answer this with numbers.
 
EDIT- DERP. I already suggested this earlier in the thread, but with less detail. As did MobilSyn.


Re your continued cooling struggles - Can you seal the front of the radiator from below? Perhaps apply a shield/ panel to the bottom face of the frame rails (side to side, and from just behind the winch to just behind the radiator) with a short leg kicking down at the bottom/ rear edge of the radiator? This would (in theory) prevent warm engine bay air from being recirculated through the radiator at all, but especially slower, speeds.

I realize you're doing the best you can with the limited real estate under the hood... holy crap it's tight in there.
 
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Re your continued cooling struggles - Can you seal the front of the radiator from below? Perhaps apply a shield/ panel to the bottom face of the frame rails (side to side, and from just behind the winch to just behind the radiator) with a short leg kicking down at the bottom/ rear edge of the radiator? This would (in theory) prevent warm engine bay air from being recirculated through the radiator at all, but especially slower, speeds.

Yes, probably can do that, I'll look over what material I have and see what I can use to make something like that. Because of the radiator tilt there's already very little space between the winch and the radiator that isn't grille now, but might not be a bad idea to change that.

It also occurs to me, as ineffective as the fuel cooling is proving, I can probably eliminate it and relocate trans and PS cooling to where the fuel cooler is, which would free up some airflow for the radiator. Probably not a big difference, but every bit could help.
 
got to let the heat out

1662593517883.png
 
I seem to remember JR having to machine some slots into his boatside skids on the Bronco for the same thing.
 
Yes, probably can do that, I'll look over what material I have and see what I can use to make something like that. Because of the radiator tilt there's already very little space between the winch and the radiator that isn't grille now, but might not be a bad idea to change that.

It also occurs to me, as ineffective as the fuel cooling is proving, I can probably eliminate it and relocate trans and PS cooling to where the fuel cooler is, which would free up some airflow for the radiator. Probably not a big difference, but every bit could help.
The plastic cardboard is cheap and works pretty well for testing.
 
got to let the heat out

1662593517883.png

You are not wrong (again), but I left out a tidbit that makes my possibility of counter-arguing even worse: I haven't put the wing skids back on yet. It's boiling the belly tank with the boat sides wide open, the only skid plate still on it is the flat bottom square-ish section under the trans/t-case. I think that pretty well nails the coffin shut on the belly tank concept in this vehicle configuration. So... yep, you told me so (pages ago) and I've leveraged stubbornness to prove you right.
 
I got about squat done this weekend, spent yesterday sick and half-ass working from home, but barely left the couch all day.
Did get my rock lights and dome lighting wired up so there's that at least. It's silly I know, but when you're in and out a bit in the dark, being able to see without digging into a pocket for cellphone/flashlight is nice.
The dome lighting is sticky back LED flexible strip lighting, 16ish feet for $15ish off Amazon. Cut to fit various places, soldered on some wire leads, I like the red because it lights "enough" without totally blowing out night vision.
It's stuck to the underside of the roof panel, so to directly see it, you have to be more or less within about 3-4 feet of the vehicle (the cage shields it).
I was originally planning on using trailer taillights, but they're really bulky.
 

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