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My KRX1000 thread

Wades_76_cj7 said:
I thought when I got my Cagewrx cage I would hate them and they would always be blocking my view. I have had them so long I don't even notice them anymore until I want to wipe off the inside of the windshield. Then I am cussing them. :laughing:
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I have them, honestly have never noticed them.
I really dont like to run windshields, if I do it is half
it has to be pretty bad weather for me to put the full one on, I will but I grumble. damn things get dirty too quick
 
that is how I am too. I wont run the cheap poly windshield I have unless it's cold AF or cold and wet.
They get dirty quick and I don't want to stop and clean the damn thing all the time.
 
Got some 35" shoes mounted up on the factory beadlocks.
20220728_201601.jpg
 
Here they are next to my 31" general LT's which measure almost true @ 30.5" I haven't put a tape measure on the 370's yet, will do it when I get home from work today.
20220729_072352.jpg
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Looks perfect on 35's! :smokin:

Any tire rubbing issues in the front?
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No rubbing even under some compression, just got back from a shake down run at my local trails. Slight noticeable power loss over the 31's, mostly in the midrange, not nearly as bad as I was expecting. I'm going to add some weight to my clutches and see what that does.
 
1911cdp said:
No rubbing even under some compression, just got back from a shake down run at my local trails. Slight noticeable power loss over the 31's, mostly in the midrange, not nearly as bad as I was expecting. I'm going to add some weight to my clutches and see what that does.
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I would’ve thought you would need to take some weight out? As in, I would’ve thought that you’d want to shift out at higher rpm. Wouldn’t adding weight lower the rpm, hurting your power loss?

I’m sure it’s not that simple, though…
 
OHV Wildcat said:
I would’ve thought you would need to take some weight out? As in, I would’ve thought that you’d want to shift out at higher rpm. Wouldn’t adding weight lower the rpm, hurting your power loss?

I’m sure it’s not that simple, though…
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I don't claim to understand the CVT in these things, I thought the same thing. I asked the MFG and they said add weight for larger tires as a general rule. It's pretty easy and you don't have to remove the weights to add or remove.
 
I watched that comparison video and I was kind of surprised to see the wet clutch before the CVT.
I was under the impression that wet clutch was not desirable (yamaha Viking past experience).
The part comparison was impressive though.
 
CarterKraft said:
I watched that comparison video and I was kind of surprised to see the wet clutch before the CVT.
I was under the impression that wet clutch was not desirable (yamaha Viking past experience).
The part comparison was impressive though.
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The other belt CVTs just use the belt as the clutch. As in, the primary sheave is just spinning inside the belt any time the engine is running. You get the RPMs up to the clutch engagement zone, and it starts squeezing the belt. So, all the slipping action is sheave on belt. This wet clutch setup lets the primary sheave be fully engaged on the belt all the time, and the wet clutch handles the necessary low-rpm slipping. In both arrangements, the secondary sheave is fully engaged to the belt all the time.

So, in my mind, the wet clutch setup is far far preferable, since a clutch is doing the clutching, rather than just a belt getting ground against. But, I'm brand new to the machine, so we'll see!
 
OHV Wildcat said:
The other belt CVTs just use the belt as the clutch. As in, the primary sheave is just spinning inside the belt any time the engine is running. You get the RPMs up to the clutch engagement zone, and it starts squeezing the belt. So, all the slipping action is sheave on belt. This wet clutch setup lets the primary sheave be fully engaged on the belt all the time, and the wet clutch handles the necessary low-rpm slipping. In both arrangements, the secondary sheave is fully engaged to the belt all the time.

So, in my mind, the wet clutch setup is far far preferable, since a clutch is doing the clutching, rather than just a belt getting ground against. But, I'm brand new to the machine, so we'll see!
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This was one of the primary reasons I went with the Kawi.
 
dman33733 said:
I know - I'm looking casually at these and the Talons & am stuck on which way to go!
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KRX..... I own/race a Talon R and in its element it's a bad ass machine right out of the box BUT it is not a trail/crawler type rig. The computerized clutch and the not all that low 4Low kinda kills it unless you just want to cruise gravel roads at a high rate of speed banging gears. :laughing:

The KRX is built like a tank and is well suited for trail and crawler duties.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Didn't know those were a thing until just now. Those look pretty freakin cool.
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they just released them last week. I think the only model available to buy right now is the black with gold wheels. the LE ES version. electronic shocks
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
if i was buying right now it would be the KRX 1000 4 seater.. :smokin:
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SLOWPOKE693 said:
Didn't know those were a thing until just now. Those look pretty freakin cool.
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My 2 seat KRX has enough power without really having any excess power. I'd like to try out a 4 seater but I suspect the extra weight might be too much since they did nothing to the motor.
 
Kraftwerks has you covered.


Off Road KRX 1000 - KraftWerks USA

Kraftwerks performance is the supercharging division of Group-A Autosports Engineering. Our mission is to develop the best supercharger kits in the world with unparalleled performance, quality, reliability, and value.
kraftwerksusa.com kraftwerksusa.com
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
Kraftwerks has you covered.


Off Road KRX 1000 - KraftWerks USA

Kraftwerks performance is the supercharging division of Group-A Autosports Engineering. Our mission is to develop the best supercharger kits in the world with unparalleled performance, quality, reliability, and value.
kraftwerksusa.com kraftwerksusa.com
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This might sound crazy but... The older I get the more I prefer to leave stuff stock as much as possible. I was really hoping Kawasaki would have a factory installed turbo or at least do something to up the power on the 4 seater.
 
swtfman said:
This might sound crazy but... The older I get the more I prefer to leave stuff stock as much as possible. I was really hoping Kawasaki would have a factory installed turbo or at least do something to up the power on the 4 seater.
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i fully agree with this. I keep my RZR engine 100% stock. I will swap in better bearings in the front diff, trans and stuff like that but I want the engine stock.

Have a buddy with a '16 XPT4 that is heavily modified and it's very unreliable.
 
The best N/A engine upgrades to get a bit more power without having to go in the motor and keeping it reliable would be an intake, tune and an exhaust.

The turbo cars are easy, you just turn up the boost.
 
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