My capra

[YotaAtieToo]

I hadn't posted anything since if was just basically a stock capra with a few add ones like everyone else, but I've added some more stuff, so why not.

It originally was a dig capra. Added brass portal covers and 10% lower rear r&p, krawlers on some aluminum bead locks. Broke a rear housing, so obviously I had to add 4ws with the flysky 6ch. Found a cheap complete aluminum steer axle on Amazon. Ended up braking the C on it, bought an axial housing and swapped the aluminum 3rd, shafts and knuckles on. All those parts are shitty quality and I'll probably eventually phase them out.

At some point I tried a cheap 5 pole brushed motor that seemed exactly the same as the stock motor. Recently burnt that out, tried a Holmes Hobbies 5 pole CrawlMaster pro which was a $110 motor. It was marginally smoother at low speeds for the 20 mins it lasted. Sent that trash back, did some reading and came across lots of people recommending the hobby wing fusion pro.

Holy shit, what an upgrade. Like night and day from what I've driven. You can crawl so slow it's barely moving, but it will still have crazy torque because of the FOC system. It's so much more controllable on technical stuff it's nuts. Then when you need wheel speed, it's got lots. I also really like the intergraded esc. Less wires and stuff to mount.

One issue I missed when I picked it up is that it won't clear the stock capra rear link mount. You can sand it down to make it fit, but then it just snaps off first trip out. Then enter the Vader flat belly skid. Gives a bit more clearance, and uses aluminum link mounts that clear the fusion pro. At the same time you gain the ability to mount a fullsize dig servo.

I just installed the Sl3d tire inserts. They're 3d printed out of a rubber like material. They are supposed to be a lot more stable than foams, and also not effected by water. Have not tried these yet.

Next batch of mods is a fullsize dig servo, 40% overdrive portal gears (this might be too much with my underdrive rears, but I never noticed the 10%, so I went bigger ) and a 1/2" rear wheelbase strech. Most of these parts showed up today, or will be here next week.

Next thing I'm interested in a suck down winch. I think it would be a game changer on climbs and side hills. After that, I'd like to mess with the shocks, but maybe that's not necessary with the winch?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Got rid of the janky China steering that has a bent tie tod to clear the diff, but wouldn't stay in place for some stock stainless stuff. Couldn't find offset hiems for a reasonable price so I just put a slight bend in it and adjusted the hiems out a bit. Rolled it up for more clearance at the same time.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So I checked and the rear gears were 10% lower (went to 4.12s from 3.75s)

The portals are 1.9:1 stock and the gears I bought are 1.33

So 7.89s vs 4.99s or 53% different.

Definitely noticeable how much faster the front turn. Did not notice any downside like some people talk about. But also can't say I noticed a huge advantage where I was at.

The tire inserts did seem more stable.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Threw on the longer links. I was going to just make them with the old school all thread sleeved in 5/16 aluminum but I found vanquish builder links in titanium about $12/pair depending on the length. Went with 124mm and 102mm which is 13mm(~1/2") longer than stock. Both ends are RH thead vs stock is RH/LH Fwiw, but I don't think it will matter.

I thought I needed another drive shaft set to make a longer rear, but the stock rear is already the longest combo of parts. It seems like it has enough slip engagement as long as the male piece is centered. So I cut a pen spring in half and put 1 piece on either side.

Shocks are obviously more laid down now. Going to see how it works, but I may try to use the existing hole in the chassis right behind the stock mount.

It's like 12 7/8" wb now, not sure if I'll do the front or not. There is only about 3/8" unill the servo hits the front grill, but I may change the servo mount set up soon anyway.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I noticed the other day the normal sized servo horn wasn't maxing out the knuckles.

So I picked up 2 27mm horns.

Turns out 27mm is too much, but hole 2 is about 24mm and works perfect. There is a few companies making 24mm arms.

You can't see but the front arm clears the diff with basically no clearance. The rear wouldn't clear, so I put in some spares and now it clears by ~1/16". 2 didn't brand servos I guess?

Figured while I'm there, may as well grind the stops and see if I can get more angle.

Thought I got better before pics, but here they are anyway. Top is longer arm, no grinding. Bottom short arm.

This is ground arms and putting a slight bend in the tie rod. Any more than this and the axle shaft hits the knuckle, I could clearance that, but I think they would really start binding at that point.

With that angle and the overdrive front, it damn near turns on its self.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So first test drive I feel like the longer wb was counteracted by the shitty shock geometry. Was getting a lot of tq twist.

Steering was pretty nice.

I do think I'm going to back off on the over drive. Either less OD portal gears or maybe just the same underdrive gears on the front diff.

 

['84 Bronco II]

I am building a new portal rig and it's right at 30% overdrive. I've taken it on a couple of quick test drives (still not finished) and it seems just about right for a 1/10 scale rig; I'm not sure if I'd want any more. My other 1/10 scale rig is right at 21% and it's noticeable, but somewhat subtle. My AX24 is at 50% which you can get away with for the most part with something that small and light, but it get squirrelly and out of shape fast in reverse if there is any kind of bind on the drivetrain.

Shock geometry is definitely lacking with the Capra chassis and stock mounting position on the axles. I outboard my shocks as much as I can without the tires getting into them.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I am building a new portal rig and it's right at 30% overdrive. I've taken it on a couple of quick test drives (still not finished) and it seems just about right for a 1/10 scale rig; I'm not sure if I'd want any more. My other 1/10 scale rig is right at 21% and it's noticeable, but somewhat subtle. My AX24 is at 50% which you can get away with for the most part with something that small and light, but it get squirrelly and out of shape fast in reverse if there is any kind of bind on the drivetrain.

Like I said, I haven't noticed a big down side, I just feel like it's excessive and probably not gaining anything over 30-40% I also would like lower over all gearing.

To be honest I haven't noticed a ton of advantage either. I understand the concept, but it doesn't seem to be a giant difference. To be fair, it's a dig and 4ws rig, so turning radius is basically 0 and the dig is very handy for hooking the front on climbs to flatten the suspension out.

Shock geometry is definitely lacking with the Capra chassis and stock mounting position on the axles. I outboard my shocks as much as I can without the tires getting into them.

I was pretty happy with it stock. I've added the Vader skid, which completely changed the upper and lower link geometry. The skid moved the lowers up and the uppers are at the highest hole(maybe this needs to change) Then stretched the rear which layed the shocks down.

Unfortunately I don't have an area close by to be able to notice changes as much as I used to. But the rear definitely needs changing. I can't really outboard them as the tires hit hard already with as sharp as it turns. I may just try the hole in the side bar for now. But I do want either shorter shocks or mod what I have.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Moved both f&r shocks to a higher and more upright position.

The front was just moving and a longer screw. The rear I cut a little off the plastic and swapped the stock standoff balls to standard balls. Came out decent

Moved the rear links down 2 holes also.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So when my wife bought me this for Xmas, the hobby shop sold her 2 of these eco power 4200s. Fucking way overkill as they last like 3? Hours. I never did anything different since I had them, but always wanted to try a lighter battery.

Well the other day, I went to mess with it and the battery in it won't take a charge at all. Guess you can't leave the battery plugged into the fusion pro even if it's off.

Also can't find my other one, not sure if kids messed with it or what.

Anyway, good excuse to get some smaller batteries. So I got 2 ea of these 1300 zee powers and 500 turnigy. Figured the 1300s should last about 40 mins to an hour and the little ones 20 mins? I've only driven it a little bit with the 1300 and it seemed maybe a hair less punch, but that's OK.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Y67CHJT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Turnigy Graphene Panther 500mAh 3S 11.1V LiPo Battery 75C 150C (XT60 C | SpeedyFPV

Specifications: Capacity: 500mAh Cell Count: 3 Voltage: 11.1V Constant Discharge: 75C Peak Discharge (3s): 150C Battery Size: 56x31x18mm Weight: 63g Pack Resistance: 35mΩ Charge Plug: JST-XH-4P Discharge Plug: XT60

speedyfpv.com

 

[Bmxbry9]

Were you looking for a kit capra or was it 2big bronco

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[YotaAtieToo]

Were you looking for a kit capra or was it 2big bronco

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That was me, but kinda changed my mind I think, for now at least.

I appreciate it though!

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Got this out for the first run this year, it's always impressing me. More vids later

 

[Bmxbry9]

Looks good! I just picked up a f10 portal to rear steer my vrd

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Gotta love the audio with these 2 in the background

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Been trying to figure out a way to make 4ws AND dig easier to use on the radio (FS GT5)

Rear steer on ch6 (knob on top) and dig on ch4 (3 pos switch for left thumb) like most I assume.

I added a thumb steering deal that works decent. The problem I have is while doing super technical stuff, I have to either take my left thumb off the steering to dig (which can ruin a line when the tires center) or try and reach in with my left thumb. (just cumbersome)

I have thought about trying front steering on ch5 (which I may do since it's easy to try) but I'm not sure I'll like that. (tried it, don't like)

Posted a thread on rcc forum asking about removing the return to center spring on the ch1 knob so I can take my hand or thumb off it for a sec to hit dig or rear steer and someone suggested just putting an o-ring behind the knob, why didn't I think of that

Use a grommet I had, 5/16"

The whole thing was too much, cut it in half and it's perfect. Just enough to prevent return.

Side note, the radio doesn't like if you turn it on with the ch1 knob off center. It's still easy easy to feel where it is though.

Too much

Perfect

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Out on a trip for the wife's day near glacier, checking out some different spots.

This was a pretty cool line, should have got a video, but hard to film while driving.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Another place we checked out near glacier. One of the more fun places I've crawled. The viens varied from 1/10 lines to 24th lines. Even with the snow it was a ton of fun. Will have to get back there during warmer weather.

Finally broke the stupid eco power rear servo. Bought it from the a main store soon after I broke the stock servo. It wouldn't go center or right at all, but would steer left?

Whatever, it wasn't that strong anyway. Ordered a 45kg (640oz/in) for like $35 on Amazon. I've had a 25kg (350oz/in) for a long time and almost always will steer. The eco power is supposed to be 400oz/in, but it seemed like half the power of the 25kg.

I also still really want to get a suck down winch on this thing.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Out on a trip for the wife's day near glacier, checking out some different spots.

This was a pretty cool line, should have got a video, but hard to film while driving.

Looks like you're pulling some pretty decent lines with that thing now. Screw crawling on wet, snowy rocks though

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Looks like you're pulling some pretty decent lines with that thing now. Screw crawling on wet, snowy rocks though

I keep saying it, but the thing impresses me all the time. This line was pretty cool, took a few tries and some finesse.

Ya, it's not ideal, but this time of year up north, what can you do. I'd live to see what I could do in these spots when it's dry and the tires are warm.

Thinking about trying some local comps not sure what class I would fit into. I still have the straight rear axle I could swap in.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Thinking about trying some local comps not sure what class I would fit into. I still have the straight rear axle I could swap in.

Do it man! Competitions are how I ended up getting so deep into the hobby. It is way more fun than casually crawling around.

As far as what class it falls into, that completely depends on what rulesets your local club adheres to. Pretty much all of the clubs are on Facebook if you want to find one.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Do it man! Competitions are how I ended up getting so deep into the hobby. It is way more fun than casually crawling around.

Your thread is what actually made me kinda want to try it.

I've been into rc crawlers off and on for literally 20 years and never been to interested in comps. I actually went to a nationals/worlds? In Vegas years ago with my wife for her parents rc wheel company. Was crazy to see guy literally fly from all over including Japan. Didn't even bring my rc at the time.

Ps: the jap dudes were absolutely off the wall. The guy who did the worst in their group the day before had to wear a dress, then that turned into a bikini. They were shaking up colors lights and spraying that dude while he was competing at like 11am

As far as what class it falls into, that completely depends on what rulesets your local club adheres to. Pretty much all of the clubs are on Facebook if you want to find one.

I figured. I've been poking around rcc, but it's about as dead as can be. Newest post comp related is like 2020 in some sections.

Wifes fb sent a request to the local rc group, need to check if dude accepted it.

 

['84 Bronco II]

I figured. I've been poking around rcc, but it's about as dead as can be. Newest post comp related is like 2020 in some sections.

Wifes fb sent a request to the local rc group, need to check if dude accepted it.

I am also using my wife's account for Facebook I just started posting the NMRCC stuff up on RCCrawler to try an do my part to make forums great again. Unfortunately, most of the big names from back in the day aren't on there anymore. The long time president of NMRCC hasn't posted anything on there since 2016.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I am also using my wife's account for Facebook I just started posting the NMRCC stuff up on RCCrawler to try an do my part to make forums great again. Unfortunately, most of the big names from back in the day aren't on there anymore. The long time president of NMRCC hasn't posted anything on there since 2016.

As much as I hate to see forums die. Going over there makes you realize why.

5000 different sub forums, some with 10 sub sub forums. So everything is so spread out lots of posts just get lost.

That and you still can upload pics?

 

['84 Bronco II]

That and you still can upload pics?

I use imgur or link to pictures I posted here. I assume you have to be a site contributor to be able to upload pictures directly.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So I had a wierd thing happen with Amazon and ordered 2 of the 45kg's. Figured I'll just throw them on and keep the 25kg as a spare.

10 mins or so of testing and they're pretty awesome.

 

[Bmxbry9]

Have a link to the servo? I'm going to add rear steer to my vrd

 

[YotaAtieToo]

This is the one I ordered. All the xxkg servos are probably made by the same place, but maybe not? This one had lots of reviews.

Fwiw, the horn it came with looks decent. Dual pinch screws and it's longer than standard for full steering angle.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Went out today to check out an area up north, just some rock formations you can see from the highway. Walked around for almost 3 hours between 3 different spots and hit like 6 lines. It's wierd how some rocks just don't work for rc crawling and others there can be endless lines in a 50 Sqft area.

The rocks were just either a cliff or basically flat it seemed.

This place is in the pine trees, so lots of pine needles, dirt and moss in the cracks. Maybe if someone spent time clearing some stuff out? Not going to be me though.

Servos worked great though.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So if anyone is following the deadbolt build, I robbed the front axle from this for it and used that as an excuse for an upgrade.

I wanted to get an offset diff and lower the servo but didn't want to spend $400 or whatever on a vanquish. Found the rhino rc axles, they looked good and have decent reviews so I bit.

$130 with heavy portal cover wieghts, 22% OD r&p gears and comple hex to hex. Figured I'd give it a shot.

First off, I'm 90% sure I ordered black, not the gay silver, but whatever. Packaging was top notch. Came with the bta servo mount, link riser and a battery mount.

Diff has little center caps, and the ability to flip the ring gear to reverse rotation.

Machine worked looked really good and actually had grease. I did find out trying to swap portal gears around that these use a larger stub shaft (6mm vs 5mm)and cross pin(forgot too look, but I believe it's 3mm vs 2mm). Which is nice I guess, but does mean proprietary portal gears, unless I want to drill capra gears out, which I'm guessing isn't easy.

Had to fuck around a bit with the upper links to make them fit on top of the servo and still get some up travel. It's not perfect, but will work for now. May later build some new links and/or a new mount.

One thing I'm not a big fan of on the stock axles is the steering sticking out. It is what it is, but it's always getting stuck on stuff. I've thought about bta steering, but it would be a royal pain with the HP diff and high steering angle.

I noticed there was a ton of room with the servo behind the axle. Moved the tierod above the knuckles and flipped it almost 180* offset ends and all. had to tweak the bend on the diff side, but it clears and is way better imo. Not only further back by a ton, but higher as well. Maybe I'll try to make a crazy bent link to get the tie rod back in the double shear, but we'll see, guess there is a chance I bend the screw with the drag link stacked.