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muh new Mercedeez

DMG said:
Or give the male terminals a tiny twist with your mechanics forceps.
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What are they supposed to look like? I think I have a pair in a set of used tools I got but they might just be normal forceps and don't look like they'd fit in the connector. :laughing:
attachment(394).jpg
 
arse_sidewards said:
This isn't for your entertainment. It's for other people's entertainment. I hope one of your shooting range cop buddies NDs into your jerking off hand.


Genius asshole are your words, not mine. But thanks for the compliment. :laughing:

It's a good thing you're a useless twat who doesn't actually do things or I'd have to waste my time making equally low effort comments on your threads.
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MEOOW
 
arse_sidewards said:
What are they supposed to look like? I think I have a pair in a set of used tools I got but they might just be normal forceps and don't look like they'd fit in the connector. :laughing:
attachment(394).jpg
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I use regular surgical forceps
 
87manche said:
my dad was a lab technician.
workshop was full of surgical tools.
I just thought having cool little hemostats and shit around was normal my whole life.
anyway, hemostats are handy as fuck and everyone should have an assortment.
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100% I use them for all kinds of stuff
 
Ze germans do make this shitpile pretty easy to drain, the six bolts with tabs are kidna trick. Magnet was squeaky clean for 100k. New conductor plate tomorrow and I'm gonna test it for continuity before I slap it in. Was gonna do it this evening but the woman needed dealing with. :shaking:

attachment(399).jpg
 
Had a helper this morning.

attachment(400).jpg


New one tested with good continuity between a pin in the connector and a solenoid terminal as well as the ground pin and the other terminal in every solenoid.
attachment(401).jpg


The conductor plate I took out didn't have these covers that the one on Youtube did but whatever, I don't see them doing more than keeping big chunks of carnage out.

Screenshot 2024-07-28 at 10.53.22 AM.png


I declined to measure resistance across all solenoids and compare to the old valve body on the basis that it's unlikely they're fucked based on the car not consistently throwing codes for any one of them.
 
Aaaaand P0763 (3-4 solenoid) again. Not sure if I should blindly swap in the solenoids from the old valve body or look more at the connector.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Aaaaand P0763 (3-4 solenoid) again. Not sure if I should blindly swap in the solenoids from the old valve body or look more at the connector.
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pull on the harness wires for that solenoid
betcha find a little tube fulla green scuzz with a nice little hole in the tube from a wire piercing probe
 
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arse_sidewards said:
Had a helper this morning.

attachment(400).jpg


New one tested with good continuity between a pin in the connector and a solenoid terminal as well as the ground pin and the other terminal in every solenoid.
attachment(401).jpg


The conductor plate I took out didn't have these covers that the one on Youtube did but whatever, I don't see them doing more than keeping big chunks of carnage out.

Screenshot 2024-07-28 at 10.53.22 AM.png


I declined to measure resistance across all solenoids and compare to the old valve body on the basis that it's unlikely they're fucked based on the car not consistently throwing codes for any one of them.
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That cover was on the original trans, but as time went on it was removed from production as unnecessary.

You have a wiring problem, not a transmission problem.
 
DRTDEVL said:
You have a wiring problem, not a transmission problem.
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Winner winner chicken dinner.

Bypassed the yellow-gray 3-4 solenoid wire by snipping it an inch from each connector and running a new wire. She goes down the highway at 100 real good now. Still could use brakes though. :homer:

Still had to pull the pan again because shit was hemorrhaging so I resistance tested all the solenoids and they were all within the same 6.1-5.8 or so, I forget what range I was set on. :laughing:

Do you know anything about this difference? Just a simple part revision for cost?

attachment(410).jpg
 
+250 for pads, rotors and hoses all around and a right rear caliper. That brings us up to $700, $750, something like that.
 
God forbid the fucking krauts make anything easy. I guess the procedure for checking trans fluid involves measuring how much is on the dipstick and comparing to trans temp. :shaking:

Screenshot 2024-08-04 at 2.58.57 PM.png



Dipstick is in the mail. That brings us to $760.

Provience said:
oof
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I'm not surprised. It's ~$20/rotor for my 90s shit.
 
My late step-dad was a research Veterinarian, and when he passed I got a whole box of hemostats, forceps, scalpels, etc. , but tool I use the most is a dental pick.
87manche said:
my dad was a lab technician.
workshop was full of surgical tools.
I just thought having cool little hemostats and shit around was normal my whole life.
anyway, hemostats are handy as fuck and everyone should have an assortment.
Click to expand...

DMG said:
100% I use them for all kinds of stuff
Click to expand...
 
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arse_sidewards said:
God forbid the fucking krauts make anything easy. I guess the procedure for checking trans fluid involves measuring how much is on the dipstick and comparing to trans temp. :shaking:

Screenshot 2024-08-04 at 2.58.57 PM.png



Dipstick is in the mail. That brings us to $760.


I'm not surprised. It's ~$20/rotor for my 90s shit.
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Could be worse, could be vw. At least a dip stick is involved.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Winner winner chicken dinner.

Bypassed the yellow-gray 3-4 solenoid wire by snipping it an inch from each connector and running a new wire. She goes down the highway at 100 real good now. Still could use brakes though. :homer:

Still had to pull the pan again because shit was hemorrhaging so I resistance tested all the solenoids and they were all within the same 6.1-5.8 or so, I forget what range I was set on. :laughing:

Do you know anything about this difference? Just a simple part revision for cost?

attachment(410).jpg
Click to expand...
No clue. All references I find to Sprinters show A1402770435 and A1402770535 and interchangeable. I guess 0635 came out later than the Sprinters and is an updated part number.
87manche said:
Could be worse, could be vw. At least a dip stick is involved.
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A service stick. Still can't leave it in.
 
DRTDEVL said:
No clue. All references I find to Sprinters show A1402770435 and A1402770535 and interchangeable. I guess 0635 came out later than the Sprinters and is an updated part number.

A service stick. Still can't leave it in.
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Vw you have to buy a tool to thread in the drain plug to fill it.
At least bmw still gives a fill hole.
Bmw land you fill it, then warm it to 100 degrees and stick the plug back in the fill hole.
 
87manche said:
Vw you have to buy a tool to thread in the drain plug to fill it.
Click to expand...
neg

you just blast fluid into it through any hole that'll accept it (many of them had a dipstick tube or a case vent that'd take fluid), the fluid level standpipe is included with every car

if you got squeezy hands of steel you can even squeezebottle it in from underneath with the pointy quart bottle cap
 
87manche said:
Vw you have to buy a tool to thread in the drain plug to fill it.
At least bmw still gives a fill hole.
Bmw land you fill it, then warm it to 100 degrees and stick the plug back in the fill hole
Click to expand...
[486] said:
neg

you just blast fluid into it through any hole that'll accept it (many of them had a dipstick tube or a case vent that'd take fluid), the fluid level standpipe is included with every car

if you got squeezy hands of steel you can even squeezebottle it in from underneath with the pointy quart bottle cap
Click to expand...
Same for Volvo. Add fluid, remove inner drain plug, run until operating temp, then thread in inner drain plug.
 
A four wheel brake job, 3 calipers, an exhaust patch, a window switch, a lightbulb and some ghetto headlight wiring later and it's in shape to be daily driven.

Total cost (including insurance and reg which were $700ish total) is $1149 (I didn't save an exact breakdown of what was what) plus the original $600 to get it.

I think that's pretty good for a midsize AWD SUV made this century. I still fucking hate the thing though.
 
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