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muh new Mercedeez

Passed the sniff test. Reinstalled, no immediate DTCs. Didn’t have time to drive it. New plug and filter kit arrives tomorrow
 
Roc Doc said:
It's the Millennial way. Look at me I did something.
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This isn't for your entertainment. It's for other people's entertainment. I hope one of your shooting range cop buddies NDs into your jerking off hand.

Animalmother said:
Why does a self proclaimed genius asshole need help to know if a connector is wet or if a circuit board smells burned up in his shit box.
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Genius asshole are your words, not mine. But thanks for the compliment. :laughing:

It's a good thing you're a useless twat who doesn't actually do things or I'd have to waste my time making equally low effort comments on your threads.
 
Got the new connector in the mail today. Blew out all the plugs and reassembled everything with new O-rings. Wound up swapping the O-rings from the new connector to the old one because the OEM one had better fitting plastic.

Old DTCs are gone. Now we've got new ones but with no CEL and it's still in some sort of limp mode where it won't go over 30.

I guess I could take it all apart, clean and reassemble but if the connections are that shitty do I really wanna just keep assembling it until it makes good contact? Seems like a recipe for it to stop making good contact at an inopportune time.

DRTDEVL Am I gonna fuck something up if I put copper anti-sieze in each of the female terminals and reassemble it?

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If you’re dropping the pan anyway why don’t you check continuity between there terminus in the pan and the back of the external harness connector?
 
IowaOffRoad said:
If you’re dropping the pan anyway why don’t you check continuity between there terminus in the pan and the back of the external harness connector?
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The fact that the codes keep changing and I'm only touching stuff on the outside tells me that the stuff I'm fiddling with is in fact the source of the problem.

Animalmother said:
Dielectric grease, honkey
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Dielectric grease is a (poor) insulator. For something that's already marginal I want something like terminal grease or something else that's intentionally very conductive. Hence why I asked about copper antisieze playing nice with the over-complicated german electronics.

det107 said:
Pipe dope would be a better application- :flipoff2:
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I use that shit on all sorts of things with great success.

I just did a muffler on one of the Lesbarus. Flange wasn't leaking, muffler rusted off. When I went to take it apart I found that ~5yr ago at the time it was assembled I was lacking a gasket and just spread blue pipe sealant on the flanges. Didn't leak in the whole 5yr. I threw a gasket in this time. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Dielectric grease is a (poor) insulator. For something that's already marginal I want something like terminal grease or something else that's intentionally very conductive. Hence why I asked about copper antisieze playing nice with the over-complicated german electronics.
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Dielectric grease is a poor insulator, so you want to misuse anti-seize because it's a better conductor? :confused:

Is you drunk, homie? :homer:
 
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ExWrench said:
Dielectric grease is a poor insulator,
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It insulates more than nothing, which is not what I want here since I'm having problems making the all the pins make contact all the time.
ExWrench said:
so you want to misuse anti-seize because it's a better conductor? :confused:
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Exactly. If I toothpick a bit of it into all the female barrels on the harness side then maybe I can get good consistent contact on all the pins when I assemble it.
ExWrench said:
Is you drunk, homie? :homer:
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Not yet but I'm working on it. :flipoff2:
 
87manche said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just pull the female pins out of the connector one at a time and give them all a little squeezey squeezey with a pair of pliers?
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No, using a flowable conductive paste in a compartmentalized connector & providing random unknown alternate paths for the electrons flowing through that junction is a far better idea. Bonus points if the car's a keeper long enough for galvanic corrosion to be a factor.
 
87manche said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just pull the female pins out of the connector one at a time and give them all a little squeezey squeezey with a pair of pliers?
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On a bench I absolutely would. But I suck at de-pinning harnesses so I'm not confident in my ability to take it apart in place without fucking it up.
 
ExWrench said:
No, using a flowable conductive paste in a compartmentalized connector & providing random unknown alternate paths for the electrons flowing through that junction is a far better idea.
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I'm not you, I'm not gonna just toss a spoon full of that shit in there. I'm gonna be surgical about it.
:flipoff2:
ExWrench said:
Bonus points if the car's a keeper long enough for galvanic corrosion to be a factor.
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That would be a miracle. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
The fact that the codes keep changing and I'm only touching stuff on the outside tells me that the stuff I'm fiddling with is in fact the source of the problem.
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if you’re fiddling with the bulkhead connector, you need to find out if you have continuity through it and everything you described it makes it sound like you’re fiddling with the bulkhead connector on the transmission. If the connector in the transmission is the problem and you keep shifting it then you can cause the codes to change.
Codes are symptoms. They are not sources of problems.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
I'm not you, I'm not gonna just toss a spoon full of that shit in there. I'm gonna be surgical about it.
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Fuck yeah, dude! :beer: You have a bold vision and hubris - what could go wrong? :laughing:
I wanna' be just like you when I grow . . . umm, regress into a punkass know-it-all due to senility.
12-year-old me approves :flipoff2:

Having built, deconstructed, troubleshot, and serviced such connections, I couldn't possibly be as careful as you will be.
I bow to your purported executional superiority & encourage you to tilt the fuck outta' that windmill because you know better.
 
ExWrench said:
Fuck yeah, dude! :beer: You have a bold vision and hubris - what could go wrong? :laughing:
I wanna' be just like you when I grow . . . umm, regress into a punkass know-it-all due to senility.
12-year-old me approves :flipoff2:

Having built, deconstructed, troubleshot, and serviced such connections, I couldn't possibly be as careful as you will be.
I bow to your purported executional superiority & encourage you to tilt the fuck outta' that windmill because you know better.
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Now I have to do it my way to prove the point. :flipoff2:

IowaOffRoad said:
It’s a connector in the transmission is the problem and you keep shifting it
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I have the old valve body with the connector plate. Based on how it is constructed I don't think that is likely.
IowaOffRoad said:
Codes are symptoms. They are not sources of problems.
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I'm well aware. That's why I didn't blindly throw a solenoid at it. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Now I have to do it my way to prove the point. :flipoff2:
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Oh, that's what I'm pushing for - fuckin' do it! :bounce2:

If you get lucky, don't fuck yourself, and your shit coincidentally works after your snake oil pipedream jerkoff side quest, the amount of shit you will talk about it will be comedy gold - maybe not to you, and certainly not for reasons you'd find flattering, but, god dammit, IBB is here for you, bro :laughing:
 
IowaOffRoad said:
If it was the likely things it would have been fixed before you got a crack at it.
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That's true, but I'm inclined to believe that whatever came on the reman valve body is probably also good. But I can test the one he pulled out and slap it in. Replacements are ~$100

ExWrench said:
Oh, that's what I'm pushing for - fuckin' do it! :bounce2:

If you get lucky, don't fuck yourself, and your shit coincidentally works after your snake oil pipedream jerkoff side quest, the amount of shit you will talk about it will be comedy gold - maybe not to you, and certainly not for reasons you'd find flattering, but, god dammit, IBB is here for you, bro :laughing:
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You're being the electronic version of those guys that think everything is gonna instantly explode when you get a few pounds over GVW.

I know it ain't right but if it is the problem it'll probably fix it well enough for the timeline I need. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
You're being the electronic version of those guys that think everything is gonna instantly explode when you get a few pounds over GVW.
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The FUCK are you smokin', ese? :confused: :confused::confused:

I'm encouraging you to do this foolish thing just to prove me wrong.

If your conscience is so troubled that it's clouding your perception and making it appear as if I'm ridiculing you, that's between you and scumbag Jesus.

You got this - have as much confidence in yourself to blaze a new path as you do to talk shit about it.

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Don't be a little bitch - fuckin' dive in :laughing:
 
You seem to be focusing solely on the electrical connector. Your original codes had to do with the speed sensor and solenoid. This means you have to change the entire conductor plate, not just the electrical connector.
 
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