Provience
Kill!
Minimalist Buggy Swap Propane WIRING 20r 22r 22re 2rz 3rz 3vz 5vz that should trigger about all the search terms 
Going to see if i can copy and paste one of my old threads. 
to everybody for adding information, i cut out a bit of conservation, so by all means we can always add that back in at the end. just give me a few posts to get the distilled 'tech' in.
These are the "Large" image size, let me know if that works or if bigger or smaller would be better
This is some notes from a while back that I often end up referencing and directing other people to. Wanted to have a version of it hosted somewhere that I won't feel slimy using
Also, if anybody knows how/where/what needs to be done so that I can host .pdf files instead of just image files, that would be handy as well so that folks can download and print bigger/better versions for themselves.
These diagrams have been used and shown functional by folks other than just me, for whatever that is worth.
For a tachometer reference signal, pick it up from the Negative side of the coil/ignitor
Biggest difference for the 20R is that it uses and external regulator for the alternator
If you are running a 22R or 22RE on propane, the only difference between the below would be running the branch labeled "Choke Heater" would go to your mixing bowl. Of note, i've converted a stock toyota 3 wire alt into a 1 wire alt, that is really all it takes. If you wanted to use any other 1 wire alt, it would wire up the same. Stock 22r alt output is ~60 amps fwiw.
This is how i stripped down my 1989-1995 22re wiring harness when I did my EFI swap. the 2RZ, 3RZ, 3VZ and 5VZ are all very similar. the main takeaway is, find the circuits that you absolutely need. trace those wires back, keep them and remove everything else. Yes, i know there are no wire colors. the colors don't matter and they can be different depending on the year. With wiring, don't just open the harness and start hacking, follow the end component back to the source. it is VERY EASY to reloom and entire harness.
JustDSM says - You'll throw a CEL for the VSS signal being absent and about the only side effect you'll notice is that you'll have some idle speed inconsistencies since the ECU uses the VSS for idle speed strategies. It will not keep the truck from running, or running well for that matter.
Concerning ECM pinouts: open up the ECU box, physically, and the pinouts are labeled on the circuits
these are from FAWK AWPH when he did his buggy. he did not use the IAC or Cold Start Injector just to clean it up a little bit more
Going to see if i can copy and paste one of my old threads. to everybody for adding information, i cut out a bit of conservation, so by all means we can always add that back in at the end. just give me a few posts to get the distilled 'tech' in. These are the "Large" image size, let me know if that works or if bigger or smaller would be better
This is some notes from a while back that I often end up referencing and directing other people to. Wanted to have a version of it hosted somewhere that I won't feel slimy using
Also, if anybody knows how/where/what needs to be done so that I can host .pdf files instead of just image files, that would be handy as well so that folks can download and print bigger/better versions for themselves.
These diagrams have been used and shown functional by folks other than just me, for whatever that is worth.
For a tachometer reference signal, pick it up from the Negative side of the coil/ignitor
Biggest difference for the 20R is that it uses and external regulator for the alternator
If you are running a 22R or 22RE on propane, the only difference between the below would be running the branch labeled "Choke Heater" would go to your mixing bowl. Of note, i've converted a stock toyota 3 wire alt into a 1 wire alt, that is really all it takes. If you wanted to use any other 1 wire alt, it would wire up the same. Stock 22r alt output is ~60 amps fwiw.
This is how i stripped down my 1989-1995 22re wiring harness when I did my EFI swap. the 2RZ, 3RZ, 3VZ and 5VZ are all very similar. the main takeaway is, find the circuits that you absolutely need. trace those wires back, keep them and remove everything else. Yes, i know there are no wire colors. the colors don't matter and they can be different depending on the year. With wiring, don't just open the harness and start hacking, follow the end component back to the source. it is VERY EASY to reloom and entire harness.
JustDSM says - You'll throw a CEL for the VSS signal being absent and about the only side effect you'll notice is that you'll have some idle speed inconsistencies since the ECU uses the VSS for idle speed strategies. It will not keep the truck from running, or running well for that matter.
Concerning ECM pinouts: open up the ECU box, physically, and the pinouts are labeled on the circuits
these are from FAWK AWPH when he did his buggy. he did not use the IAC or Cold Start Injector just to clean it up a little bit more
