You obviously have very little actual shop experience.
You simply have no clue.
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Machinists step in
- Thread starter WaterH
- Start date
gozuki
Webwheeler
Amazing. Straight water is shitty for coolant, but it's absolutely better than dry. Some kind of soluble oil (or dish soap as noted) helps add lubricity to the cooling effect as well as breaking the surface tension. More efficient cutting means tools last longer, the work doesn't harden as quickly (if at all), and the machine doesn't work so hard. All wins where efficient material removal means higher profit.
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Water is going to be worse than useless for what OP is doing.
The two purposes of coolant are to cool and to help chips GTFO. Water at low pressure does fuck all for helping chips GTFO to the point where shop air would be better. Per the chips it's pretty obvious that OP isn't getting things hot enough to need cooling down.
WaterH
Well-known member
I'm down to the 1/4" in the middle. Did it two passes at a time. Then worked on something else while it cooled. (Never got to hot to touch.) I'm thinking I will cut half way in while it is still grabbing the small diameter. The grab the big for the last.
After I have this done, I need to widen it out .200" and straighten out my eyeball two halves. If I were to do it again, I would have left it 1/2" longer then necessary and done all this in a hole/slot before cutting the end off.
After I have this done, I need to widen it out .200" and straighten out my eyeball two halves. If I were to do it again, I would have left it 1/2" longer then necessary and done all this in a hole/slot before cutting the end off.
bgaidan
Red Skull Member
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Oh, I know how to do it, but I don't get the impression OP has thought of that.
WaterH
Well-known member
Read post #19
Provience
Kill!
sure, but this is where small volume/one off stuff doesn't care about marginal gains in tool life optimization and max feed.
the added cost of machine maint. and the loss of time in prepping/spraying water are far outweighed. air from the shop or nothing are also excellent and don't tear anything up.
2020AT4
Transgender tailgate operation specialist.
Been a toolmaker for 30yrs.
WD-40 as a coolant in steel? Other than choking up on the part you havent said shit that makes sense.
You sound like a hack and an assclown and heres why.
You suggested someone make an interrupted cut with an endmill using the most delicate part of the Bridgeport. Thats some stupid shit, very possibly for reasons you cant comprehend.
You want to do it on your machine? Fine. But suggesting it to someone else and having them risk breaking their machine, (Its the trip clutch that will wear incase you dont know) well, I dont even know why you would give advise like that to someone whos just starting out.
Then you doubled down telling us how smart you are running large drills in the same manner.
Lets forget that by placing that miniscule amount of feed on the drill your just rubbing, wearing the drill rather than actually cutting, and lets also set aside you would be fired on the spot in most professional shops for doing this hack ass type of work and focus on one little detail...
Its Fucking stupid!
Its lazy ass, "Imma sit in a chair and push buttons" thinking and is the exact opposite of getting shit done and making money.
Conversely its the "Ill just walk away while the machine is running" Which is just as stupid.
Chances are Ive made mistakes that were better than your best work regardless of how inflated your ego is.
Now, keep taking guesses as to what I know.
If nothing else, at least you're amusing.
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2020AT4
Transgender tailgate operation specialist.
Its actually not.
You only thinking of the job being performed and leaving out the machine, that if treated right will be on the earth long after were all gone.
Your hearts in the right place, but drills and cutters are called consumables for a reason.
If you want to break surface tension, mix in some alcohol, it was used for decades in coolant mixtures.
Just dont let the board apprentice above drink it.
Somebody's triggered. I'll keep making money, you keep riding your high horse.Been a toolmaker for 30yrs.
WD-40 as a coolant in steel? Other than choking up on the part you havent said shit that makes sense.
You sound like a hack and an assclown and heres why.
You suggested someone make an interrupted cut with an endmill using the most delicate part of the Bridgeport. Thats some stupid shit, very possibly for reasons you cant comprehend.
You want to do it on your machine? Fine. But suggesting it to someone else and having them risk breaking their machine, (Its the trip clutch that will wear incase you dont know) well, I dont even know why you would give advise like that to someone whos just starting out.
Then you doubled down telling us how smart you are running large drills in the same manner.
Lets forget that by placing that miniscule amount of feed on the drill your just rubbing, wearing the drill rather than actually cutting, and lets also set aside you would be fired on the spot in most professional shops for doing this hack ass type of work and focus on one little detail...
Its Fucking stupid!
Its lazy ass, "Imma sit in a chair and push buttons" thinking and is the exact opposite of getting shit done and making money.
Conversely its the "Ill just walk away while the machine is running" Which is just as stupid.
Chances are Ive made mistakes that were better than your best work regardless of how inflated your ego is.
Now, keep taking guesses as to what I know.
If nothing else, at least you're amusing.
WaterH
Well-known member
Ok guys, I got it cut completely. Now I need to take about .125 off each side. Should I just keep motoring with the roughing endmill.? I'm thinking full face cut, maybe .020" at a time. Or does that sound too much? Climb mill in, across the divide and climb mill back out the other side. Sound good?
Climb milling on a Bridgeport is not really recommended. It will grab and jump. how much depends on how worn your screw is. After you convention cut it you can take a spring pass for a better finish climb cutting without issue.
Provience
Kill!
depends on how you feel about the finish, if you are happy with the lines the rougher leaves and don't need to be super exact on the slot width, absolutely just keep using the rougher. 0.020 sounds a bit light for that thing, 0.075 and see how it does? I wouldn't leave less than 0.020 for the finish pass with that thing.
Provience
Kill!
fuck that, climb mill all day long on my bridgeport, repeatable, smooth and easy. grab and jump? haven't had that problem. Hell i rarely conventional cut with it
if it isn't obvious by this thread, there is a million ways to mill anything. the only wrong one is the way that breaks stuff, everything else is a compromise and just fine
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Do you actually have a Bridgeport or do you have a later clone that has ball screws?fuck that, climb mill all day long on my bridgeport, repeatable, smooth and easy. grab and jump? haven't had that problem. Hell i rarely conventional cut with it
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Mine jumps when climb milling, even with light cuts. Learned that the hard way with some very nice carbide mills.
Dethmachinefab
Red Skull Member
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She ain't going to climb when you take the backlash out and depth of cut is half the mill dia.
let her eat. -48' m head.
Provience
Kill!
bridgeport 145ty4 frame
Provience
Kill!
huh, never had an issue especially with light cuts
edit: to clarify, i get significantly improved finishes taking the same 0.010" stepover finish pass climb milling vs conventional
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2020AT4
Transgender tailgate operation specialist.
Thinks hes an expurt, cant climb mill.
Whatever you do dont listen to this bullshit.
Its the table lock that lets you climb, not the screw.
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2020AT4
Transgender tailgate operation specialist.
The problem with that rougher is hes going to get near the same finish regardless of whether conventional or climb cutting.
If this is something that is "Fitted", switch to a 4 flute.
If youre throwing a hotdog down a hallway go ahead and finish with what youre using.
gozuki
Webwheeler
It's waterhead, he only does eyeball and hallway measurements
rockmup
El Hefe
Why ? Didn't you learn that if you use water all the kittens will die ? lol
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Explain.
The lock has to be unlocked enough to travel on whichever axis you are using to mill. If you have too much backlash in the screw then (depending on the details of the cutter and part geometry) the cutter can pull the part/table along the axis toward the backlash. At least that's how I've always understood it.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Same. On a much newer (or rebuilt) machine, it wouldn't be much of a problem, but on an old clapped out bridgeport, it's a no go.
Provience
Kill!
how much backlash do you allow on your shitbox? do you really start cutting from midpoint in the backlash
just checked the hand crank measures against my DRO, i've got 0.007" about worth of backlash on the screws (on X). never had a problem climb milling especially on light cuts. sure, heavy cuts get the table locked on whatever axis i'm not traveling on, otherwise, fuckin' send it.
Provience
Kill!
there still isn't any value added for hand crank one off jobs for spraying your table with water
i don't get it, i don't see it. dry, air, oil...good enough for government work
2020AT4
Transgender tailgate operation specialist.
Thats all correct, but...
You want to drag the lock enough to keep it from hopping and how much that takes depends on the condition of your mill.
Now, I gotta get back on my horse here for a minute.
What you want to do to "Tune" your machine is first adjust the gibs, then the nut, then learn how much drag you need for a given situation.
The gib screw is on the left side of the saddle in the front on newer B-ports, this may vary by year but first find that.
Adjust it in the middle of the tables usable range so an indicator placed on the end of the table will deflect a couple thou when pushed/pulled on.
Now take the table to both ends of its travel Without forcing it, if it goes youre done.
But chances are it wont go, so now you need to back off the gib screw until it will go end to end smoothly without much force. I say without much force as youre dealing with wear in the gibs/ways and a lil tightness out on the ends is ok to actually good depending on how much of the travel you normally use.
With that done, look under the left hand side of the table and find the nut carrier. on IIRC the top front corner you will see a big flat blade screw head.
That is your nut adjustment. The nut is slotted in two directions for adjustment on newer machines:
And in two pieces on older machines.
Most assembly's look like this.
The procedure for adjusting this is the same as above for the ways, and even a new nut (Which you will want to look into for an old machine) needs adjusting to work properly on a used lead screw.
Once this is all dialed in on both axes, (axi?) it shouldn't take much table lock to control a decent climb mill operation.
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Not thaaat much. But it doesn't take much of a jump to kill a carbide end mill. A lot of it depends on the cutter geometry and the angle at which the part meets the tool. Taking a pass that's 75% the diameter of the cutter is going to turn out a lot better than if you're trying to true up a face with a .005" cut.how much backlash do you allow on your shitbox? do you really start cutting from midpoint in the backlash
just checked the hand crank measures against my DRO, i've got 0.007" about worth of backlash on the screws (on X). never had a problem climb milling especially on light cuts. sure, heavy cuts get the table locked on whatever axis i'm not traveling on, otherwise, fuckin' send it.