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Lucky Clover Racing 4800 build
- Thread starter Im4yotas
- Start date
Yah, I started looking at your build and noticed some similarities myself! Dang man, I need to set aside some time to go through it, like a lot of time. Very tech heavy, I love it! :D
Another tool build, 2 x 72 belt grinder. Started a thread on this in the Shop and Tools forum
https://irate4x4.com/shop-and-tools/328895-my-2-x-72-belt-grinder-build
https://irate4x4.com/shop-and-tools/328895-my-2-x-72-belt-grinder-build
I got the rest of the parts I needed to finish rebuilding the 205. Thought for sure I was going to get it wrapped up this weekend. Then, when I was torquing down the input shaft bearing retainer, it broke 
Not catastrophic, but it cracked right at the thin spot from the bolt hole to the edge. There's a tight fit from the OD of this retainer to the ID of the adapter. I am pretty sure if I shaved down the high spot at the crack, it would probably be fine, but I'm not risking it. Found a new one on eBay for $30 shipped, and went ahead and ordered another new gasket, too (it was one of the missing ones before).
While things were apart and easy to transfer punch, I started making a tail housing support bracket. Not sure how I'm going to finish it, but I know I am going to need it. It's obviously going to get cut down a ton.
While things were apart and easy to transfer punch, I started making a tail housing support bracket. Not sure how I'm going to finish it, but I know I am going to need it. It's obviously going to get cut down a ton.
I used this guide to help with my rebuild and got all of the torque specs from it.
WideOpen4x4
They recommend 20-40 foot pounds for the bearing retainer. The surfaces were flat, stoned smooth and I used a high quality gasket. I can't figure out why the heck it broke, but the next one will be torqued to 20, not 40. I compared my torque wrench to another one, and it was spot on at 25, 35 and 40 foot pounds.
WideOpen4x4
They recommend 20-40 foot pounds for the bearing retainer. The surfaces were flat, stoned smooth and I used a high quality gasket. I can't figure out why the heck it broke, but the next one will be torqued to 20, not 40. I compared my torque wrench to another one, and it was spot on at 25, 35 and 40 foot pounds.
Just checked their site, looks like they do! But I don't see one for the input... Just the outputs. Good to know though, I had no idea. Guess I need to spend some time perusing their product lines.
NWF
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I got most of my 205 parts from:
np205cases.com
The website is not much but the Instagram is loaded with pictures of all sorts of 205 builds and parts.
I noticed when tightening that same retainer that the bolt holes are cast and are oversized and tapered. An allen or 12 point bolt shoulder almost falls into the tapered hole and can wedge it open or out. I think I added some washers to prevent that from happening.
np205cases.com
The website is not much but the Instagram is loaded with pictures of all sorts of 205 builds and parts.
I noticed when tightening that same retainer that the bolt holes are cast and are oversized and tapered. An allen or 12 point bolt shoulder almost falls into the tapered hole and can wedge it open or out. I think I added some washers to prevent that from happening.
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Dang, I wish I would have found this guy before I dropped $800 on the Advance Adapters kit. He has a kit that uses an np241 adapter that he machines to fit the 205, and it clocks totally flat!
I was really considering getting it, because I am disappointed with how low the 205 front output hangs with the AA kit. Makes the rear output sit up high and does all kinds of ugly things to my driveshaft...makes for higher operating angles and more plunge.
I think I might look closer at some clocking rings. They look like they leave a little too much to chance on centering everything up.
They look kinda neat. I was kicking around a similar idea a few years ago, so I am definitely interested to see how they work. I was under the impression that they are still in the prototype phase, is anyone racing with them yet?
Ultimately, I don't know Phil. I know Wayne pretty well and trust him completely, and I will go with whatever he recommends.
I got the engine and transmission separated and started cleaning it up and removed the wiring harness. Looks like the intake manifold needs some attention. One of the connections snapped off (I'm guessing when it was pulled from the truck), and the inside is pretty caked with crud.
Also, got the last of the parts to button up the tcase. Should get it done tonight, hopefully I don't break anything else...
Also, got the last of the parts to button up the tcase. Should get it done tonight, hopefully I don't break anything else...
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,134
There are quite a few sets already racing and I think that they ended up on the podium in the 2018 EMC race in 4800 class.
Give Phil a call if you're interested, I'm sure he'll tell you all about it.
He made some Radflo, King and maybe ADS ones. I'm sure he could make a set of Foxes for you.
Got the new input retainer installed last night. No snap, crackle or pop this time! For anyone curious, I got the replacement retainer from transfer case solutions on eBay. I got the main gasket and seal kit from AA, and all the individual fill in stuff from Torque King 4x4.
The rear exhaust manifold bolts on each head were snapped off, so I decided to remove those while it was easy to reach. First one came out easy. I used the trick I learned in high school welding class: weld a washer to the bolt, then weld a nut to the washer. I have always had better luck with this waiting for it to cool completely before trying to turn it.
Then I went to the other side. When removing the manifold, a chunk of something (gasket or carbon deposit maybe?) fell into the head. While fishing it out, I noticed how bad it looked in there. I was planning on leaving the stock 317 heads on for now, but I don't want to put any money into them either. I'm assuming these are pretty well toast and shouldn't be run like this, but I'm not much of an engine internals guy...
Anyways, most of them look like this
And a couple look like this
So I'm looking at maybe swapping on some cleaned up 706 heads that will bump compression nicely and not cost a ton.
Then I went to the other side. When removing the manifold, a chunk of something (gasket or carbon deposit maybe?) fell into the head. While fishing it out, I noticed how bad it looked in there. I was planning on leaving the stock 317 heads on for now, but I don't want to put any money into them either. I'm assuming these are pretty well toast and shouldn't be run like this, but I'm not much of an engine internals guy...
Anyways, most of them look like this
And a couple look like this
So I'm looking at maybe swapping on some cleaned up 706 heads that will bump compression nicely and not cost a ton.
DesertCJ
Name of Pheel...
I thought 243 heads were the hot ticket?
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,134
Depends if you want hp or tq.
I picked up a clocking ring from off road design. I'm pretty disappointed with it. I had to drill a hole to clear the shift rail, which removed the option of using 3 of the 4 clocking positions. I will have to bolt it up to the trans and see if it will work. But first, I have to make the countersunk holes a little deeper. The flat head bolts stick up above the mounting surface...:rolleyes:
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Looks like they didn't center the counter sink at the 12 o'clock location. Looks like all of them are a little off. I would tell them the holes are off and you want a refund and shipping label if they want it back or you will throw it in the trash. You shouldn't have to fix there mistakes.
I am assuming they figure people will not use that stud location in order to get all the clocking options. Have you looked at the North West Fab clocking rings?
One goes up and one goes down.
https://www.northwestfab.com/NP205-R...wn_p_3397.html
https://www.northwestfab.com/NP205-Round-Ford-Down-GM-Up_p_3398.html
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Looks like they didn't center the counter sink at the 12 o'clock location. Looks like all of them are a little off. I would tell them the holes are off and you want a refund and shipping label if they want it back or you will throw it in the trash. You shouldn't have to fix there mistakes.
I am assuming they figure people will not use that stud location in order to get all the clocking options. Have you looked at the North West Fab clocking rings?
One goes up and one goes down.
https://www.northwestfab.com/NP205-R...wn_p_3397.html
https://www.northwestfab.com/NP205-Round-Ford-Down-GM-Up_p_3398.html
Yah, that's plan B if I can't make this one work.
Turns out, the one complete set of holes left on that clocking ring is pretty much exactly where I wanted it to be. Gets the rear output shaft as low as it can be with the trans pan on the ground. Just have to make room for the shift rail in the adapter now.
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 7,831
Weld a boss on top of the adapter and then do a lever out to somewhere a shifter can easily reach. Yeah it'll change the ratio slightly but who cares.
Got to take a better look inside my high milage LQ4. I took the oil pan off to swap to an F body oil pan and gain about 3 inches of clearance. Looks like someone has been in here before. I heard it run before I bought it, and it sounded great. But the guy never said anything about any work being done internally. Besides being dirty looking, everything looks pretty solid to my untrained eye. Going to cut apart the oil filter and make sure there's no metal in there.
Cut down the stock LQ4 windage tray and notched out for the new F body pickup tube mounting tab. Got the F body pan off of eBay for $88 shipped! I may go back in later and make a trap door baffle setup, but I will be running an accumulator and I want to move onto the mock-up so I can get started on the chassis.
