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Stuck

In Hell
Joined
May 20, 2020
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Case lube that is. Sorry 486 didnt mean to get you excited.

Whats everyone using? I have an old rcbs pad that hasnt been refreshed in forever. It was grandads and its worked fine but its getting a little sticky. It may be normal but the lube is kinda like gel. I was using lee lube but found the pad in grandads stuff. Any preferences for lube and application process? I just found 1000 small rifle primers and have a bunch of .223 to load.
 
Imperial sizing wax for rifle cases, one shot for pistol. You will stick cases with one shot but it's fast. Imperial is the shit for rifle cases, a jar is ~ $25 but last forever. You will die before you use up a whole jar.
 
Imperial for rifle

Some cabelas spray for when I am doing mass resizing and going to tumble after. Seems to just be premixed isopropyl and lanolin
 
How are applying it? Brush, pad, fingers?
 
VG SERE said:
Lanolin and alcohol.

Cheap, easy, and works
Click to expand...

This in a cleaned out windex bottle. You can get liquid lanolin from walmart and health stores. Mix it 1 lanolin to 4 parts 95% IPA and shake well. Its basically Dillon SPray lube at 1/5 the cost. I dump all the clean brass into a smallish rectangular tupperware tub. Holds 2000 pieces of 556. Spray liberally, shake, spray. I tumble in corn cob after loaded, but you could also just wipe clean
 
A hint I read (and now use) from the "other" site: Pam.
For me it has worked MUCH better and way cheaper than any commercial reloading spray and is years faster than a pad. Dump your brass into a bowl, spritz the brass a couple of short sprays, mix with hand for a couple of minutes and then resize...
 
For those using spray lubes. Do you have to let it dry for a while? Dont you ever get issues with lube in the case? May be a stupid question but Im curious.
 
Stuck said:
For those using spray lubes. Do you have to let it dry for a while? Dont you ever get issues with lube in the case? May be a stupid question but Im curious.
Click to expand...

Most of the spray lubes have to dry - like the lanolin/alcohol stuff. It sticks pretty bad if still wet.

I pretty much always tumble after resizing/trim/chamfer. I hate lubey, sticky ammo and I've seen too many squibs that were obvious contamination. If I am only doing a few rounds and using imperial I may just wipe it off.

Note - I wet tumble brass for the main cleaning after depriming. After the resize process I toss them in the dry tumbler, does a better job of getting the lube off and the brass is immediately ready. Even 20-30 minutes is usually enough
 
I use one shot on rifle cases. I have never had a stuck case. I put 50 cases in a cheap plastic loading block and spray the one shot from all 4 sides. Let it flash off for 5 minutes or so and go to town. I have heard that if you are switching to one shot from something else you need to clean your dies really well before you switch or you will have problems.

Pistol cases go in carbide dies, so they get no lube.
 
I have nothing to offer other than I find it ironic that a member named Stuck makes a thread named Lube. That is all. Carry on. :laughing::flipoff2:
 
I've just got an ancient bottle of RCBS water based stuff and the green foam pad in the green plastic case
tiny amount on the pad when it dries up too much, if yours is sticky you could probably just wet it down a little

I just sit in a high enough chair so my knees are lower than my ass with my feet flat on the ground (why is explaining angles hard?)
set the pad on my knees facing away from me, cardboard box at my feet
take six or seven cases, slap them on the pad and roll them away from me off the edge of the pad into the box
your palm will get lube on it, you can take advantage of this if you want, I'm uncut so I do not require lube for such things
repeat until you're out of cases, then size them, wash and let dry
home made cobbled together case trimmer
lee autoprime
then the rest of the operations get done in the ancient ammomaster 2 progressive
that thing just never had the proper balls to fully seat primers, and the shell plates are just kinda twiggy on pulling a case out of a sizing die

been probably 5 or more years since I've loaded much of anything though
 
665.0coupe said:
I have never had a stuck case.
Click to expand...

you haven't loaded enough if you haven't stuck more cases than you can remember

couple nuts as spacers a thick washer made outta a holesaw slug and a 1/4-20 bolt
pull the expander ball back into the die far as you can, drill and tap the case head and they come right out
 
One Shot or Lyman. If using One Shot, I load it and go. If using Lyman, I lay down a line or two on a pad and roll the cases on it, then tumble after resizing.
 
[486 said:
;n368204]

you haven't loaded enough if you haven't stuck more cases than you can remember

couple nuts as spacers a thick washer made outta a holesaw slug and a 1/4-20 bolt
pull the expander ball back into the die far as you can, drill and tap the case head and they come right out
Click to expand...

The only time I've stuck a case is when I forgot to lube. I do have a homemade case extractor.


Thats like saying, "you don't load enough if you have never loaded a squib" or "if you've never had a primer explode while seating primers" or "if you've never blown up a barrel". If you aren't an idiot, you can load without screwing things up.
 
665.0coupe said:
Thats like saying, "you don't load enough if you have never loaded a squib" or "if you've never had a primer explode while seating primers" or "if you've never blown up a barrel". If you aren't an idiot, you can load without screwing things up.
Click to expand...

you haven't carried long enough if you haven't shot yourself in the butt
 
kf4zht said:
Most of the spray lubes have to dry - like the lanolin/alcohol stuff. It sticks pretty bad if still wet.

I pretty much always tumble after resizing/trim/chamfer. I hate lubey, sticky ammo and I've seen too many squibs that were obvious contamination. If I am only doing a few rounds and using imperial I may just wipe it off.

Note - I wet tumble brass for the main cleaning after depriming. After the resize process I toss them in the dry tumbler, does a better job of getting the lube off and the brass is immediately ready. Even 20-30 minutes is usually enough
Click to expand...
I do batches
Stage 1
I have started doing this.
I set up a single stage with a heavy duty decapper (doing a bunch of once fire mil brass.
I then run it through the wet tumbler with the steel pins, lemon shine and dawn. Works great .

Stage 2
The dry clean brass gets dumped into a big tupperware bin, spray down liberally with the lanolin lube.
Let dry.
I have a 750 head set up with the primer pocket swage instead of the primer station, and 2 full length resizers 1st does a partial, second does the full, followed by a trim die.
Dry tumble with corn cob

Stage 3
second 750 head - prime, powder, bullet feed, seat/crimp.

So basically I have boxes of brass ready for each stage. It probably take me longer over all from start to finish, but I am happy with the quality. And typically I will run like 3000 pieces through each stage. The USPS flat rate boxes I keep the 556 brass in hold 1500pieces. So I grab two boxes off the shelf and run through stage one.

The stuff that I have already processed once, I just wet tumble, and then jump to stage 2 and have a decap pin in the first resize die, and remove the swage tool.
 
Norm said:
Imperial sizing wax for rifle cases, one shot for pistol. You will stick cases with one shot but it's fast. Imperial is the shit for rifle cases, a jar is ~ $25 but last forever. You will die before you use up a whole jar.
Click to expand...
Ha! My old man has been through 3 jars. It lasts awhile, but not that long if you shoot regularly.

I generally use unique because it's easy to get. Tried some spray lube on a pad but it really wasn't a time saver. Tumble or wipe clean depending on how many cases I'm doing.
 
I use a synthetic spray lube. Gray label from Ace Hardware. An old reloader recommended it. Works great for me on long cases.
 
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