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Low COG k10 long bed..... suspension

GFAB

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2020
Member Number
2941
Messages
45
Need some opinions on suspension for my k10 currently in progress. I am shooting for low cog on a 35-37” tire. The goal is 2” of additional lift , fender trimming, and moving the axle forward ~2”. I want to keep the leafs for simplicity. This truck is mostly used as a wood hauler work truck used to get around in the mountains, not a full blown crawler build. I still want maximize suspension performance on and off road and don’t mind spending some coin if I have to. This is the first square body I have built. Seems like most of the aftermarket support is geared towards 4”.

drivetrain specs:
550hp ls3 (aluminum)
4l80
np208
14 bolt
dana 60

suspension options I have identified:

-Tuff country 3” front springs and shackle reversal in the rear
-2” tuff country front springs and moving the rear shackle hanger
- home brew front leaf packs to level out the front and and start trimming
-52” front springs and a shackled reversal in the rear.... i am concerned this will provide too much ride height.

what would irate do?
 
52 3-4 layers in front. If its to high add more wieght. Winch/bumper

You can shackle flip the rear using the stock bracket and push it up higher hn the frame and it wont be nearly as tall or swing the axle forwards.
 
Are you planning on swapping to crossover steering?
 
I was hoping to run crossover steering. I know its going to be a tight fit without fabricating a new engine cradle out of tube. The only steering orientation I have ever used is crossover with hydro assist. It seems like this push pull deal sucks ass.
As for the front of the truck, I built a 3/16 plate steel bumper with tube work. Its also going to get a warn 9.5ti I have sitting around. If I need to I can fabricate new spring/shackle hangers (have 4x8 plasma table and press brake). I like the idea of the 52" springs if I can get the ride height low enough. This motor doesn't weigh shit...... I usually wouldn't care a ton about super low ride height. My dad likes to go on firewood runs with me. He is having a hard time getting into higher vehicles due to his age and condition. I should just step down in tire size but my axles are geared 4.56. Even with a 4l80 33s and 4.56s have me near 3000 on the expressway.

Tim
 
What would Irate do?

Hmm... let's look at the facts; a SQUARE Body chevy being built into a wood hauler / work truck.

Well... the facts say it's a rust bucket already, considering the last square body was 1987 and it's at least 33 years old, and more likely 50 years old, which pre-dates modern rust inhibition metals. And, you're throwing logs, stumps, and engine parts into the bed.

So.... here's exactly what I'd do; throw a sheet of 1/2 inch plywood into the bed. Cut what's left of metal out of the body and run the OEM suspension exactly as the factory built it. Add some new shocks. Replace the ball joints, tie rods, spring bushings and whatever other crap that's completely worn out. Add three or four layers of floor mats to keep your feet from doing the Fred Flintstone.

Now... if you want to build a show truck, or, a collector's vehicle, or, a non-let's beat on it rig, I'd consider going down a different path. But seriously? A wood hauler deserves NOTHING other than what it takes to get the job done, and even then, only with regret
 
TreeClimber said:
What would Irate do?

Hmm... let's look at the facts; a SQUARE Body chevy being built into a wood hauler / work truck.

Well... the facts say it's a rust bucket already, considering the last square body was 1987 and it's at least 33 years old, and more likely 50 years old, which pre-dates modern rust inhibition metals. And, you're throwing logs, stumps, and engine parts into the bed.

So.... here's exactly what I'd do; throw a sheet of 1/2 inch plywood into the bed. Cut what's left of metal out of the body and run the OEM suspension exactly as the factory built it. Add some new shocks. Replace the ball joints, tie rods, spring bushings and whatever other crap that's completely worn out. Add three or four layers of floor mats to keep your feet from doing the Fred Flintstone.

Now... if you want to build a show truck, or, a collector's vehicle, or, a non-let's beat on it rig, I'd consider going down a different path. But seriously? A wood hauler deserves NOTHING other than what it takes to get the job done, and even then, only with regret
Click to expand...

Cut him some slack the squarebody crowd isn't known for their brains. :flipoff2:
 
Truck is actually in pretty good shape, not a lick of rust (or original paint). If the body was beat or it wasn’t worth shit I would just hack it up. I can see driving this for a while. The truck lives in se Montana, nothing rusts here, I feel this is worth doing correctly. Don't confuse this with a high dollar build. Literally every component going into this thing to date has been left over junk from other builds that have come through the shop. Including short lengths of tube used on the front bumper. The only thing I have splurged on is the Holley terminator control system and 7" digital dash.

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I run 35s on my 79 with saggy stock front springs. Fenders are trimmed back to the wheel wells. It only rubs when the sway bar is disconnected. You shold be able to easily run 37s with 2 inch lift and just a little trimming.
 
Thanks for the offer Nacydoc! I am living down in Ennis. This build is moving a little slower than I would like, Ill keep posting pics as I get work done. I Just finished the motor this afternoon. I should have the drivetrain installed by the weekend.

Anyone ever use springs from these guys?
https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-627.htm

Ill most likely give these a shot unless I get bad feedback (easier than dumpster diving)

Tim
 
GFAB said:
Anyone ever use springs from these guys?
https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-627.htm

Ill most likely give these a shot unless I get bad feedback (easier than dumpster diving)

Tim
Click to expand...

I'm curious too, they seem alright. I looked them up and they have mostly great reviews on google. Most of the bad ones are just dumb customers, one of the 1 stars was because they showed up scratched and started to rust a year later but otherwise worked great. 🙄 They seem like a great deal for america made parts. Rockauto is more even with shipping that costs half (at least to utah) and philipino or whereever made springs.
 
Update from my build. Motor, trans, transfer case, and axles are all rebuilt and in the rig. I need to set rear pinion angle and weld spring perches to the axle tubes. I ended up running ARB air locks front and rear with 4.56 gears. I did a shackle reversal in the rear using factory springs and a custom set of 4" lift springs from ORD. Due to workload, I am having to buy more parts in this build than I originally planned (using mostly ARB and ruff stuff components). Ill be running a set of Lugnut 4x4 Jb7 3/4 ton brakes in front with the factory 2000 post disk brakes in the rear. More pics to come as time allows......
 
Got the tires mounted today. Went with a a set of 37/12.5/17 Patagonia Mts. The ride height seems pretty high for a "4" lift spring. Still have to add a couple hundred pounds in bumper, winch, and cooling system to the front of the truck. Hopefully the springs will settle a couple of inches.
The front brakes turned out as a mess. The front brackets from Lugnut4x4 were bent incorrectly, I need to do some tweaking to get them fitting correctly. Headers, steering box, and pitman arm should be here later this week. Shooting for 2 weeks to be a runner.
 
Not sure if you've mentioned it elsewhere in the thread, but I would add a steering box brace to two while you have everything off.
 
Built some shock mounts for the rig, 12" bilstines front and rear. stan1688, the steering box brace is next in the line for fabwork. I am thinking of going hydro assist to remove stress from the frame rail.
 
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