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Looking for pillow block/carrier brg in billet vs cast

makemeknowit

Kwisatz Haderach
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
72
Messages
278
Loc
Memphis, TN
Hendrix has one but the brg i.d. is too small. It doesn't come with a brg but the one to fit it has a 30mm id. I tried to find a brg to fit the hendrix block in the size I need but failed. I need 1-1/2" i.d. I could make a different bolt center work but 1.5" id isn't negotiable. Bolt center on one in pic is around 5.375
Attach23356_20211024_151732.jpg
 
If your breaking castings you should go to the 4 bolt flange style. Much stronger mounting vs a 2 bolt pillow block.

Just by looking at it that looks to be a sc bearing. Step up to a scm and the casting will be stronger. It will have a slightly larger bolt spacing and center height but they are stronger. Also don’t buy those China bearings they are junk, get dodge.

Here is the difference between a sc and scm bearing. Both are for the same size shaft.

E50B01B5-B4F4-497C-A6B4-7F019D200AF4.jpeg

AE843AEA-6949-4C10-9282-C5B103FE05B8.jpeg


The scm is Noticeably larger.

Good luck.
 
the shaft i got from Driveline Tech is a nice small machined bearing retainer. Also High Angle Driveline has a nice unit I had in last rig. IMO much better than an agriculture style cast retainer.
 
Another thing about the High Angle Driveline carrier. The bearing in mine started going out after 4 or 5 years. Took it apart and they had etched the part number off the bearing. Was able to find a replacement by measurements but seemed a bit shady. It was a mildy oddball bearing as well.
 
Another thing about the High Angle Driveline carrier. The bearing in mine started going out after 4 or 5 years. Took it apart and they had etched the part number off the bearing. Was able to find a replacement by measurements but seemed a bit shady. It was a mildy oddball bearing as well.
thanks for sharing the part number on the replacement bearing you found :flipoff2:
 

Good stuff here
 

Good stuff here
Does anyone make a CV flange for 1.5" 10 spline stuff. I would love to run a super duty 1350 front shaft
 

Good stuff here
I would fuck around with a unit bearing before I dropped $300 on something that you can't get a spare for in a timely manner, assuming they're even still making it in 5yr when you need it.
 
I would fuck around with a unit bearing before I dropped $300 on something that you can't get a spare for in a timely manner, assuming they're even still making it in 5yr when you need it.
A spare billet carrier bearing ?
I mean, I know I'm rough on shit, but this is next level.

Care to share how you break one of these ?

If you're refering to the bearing that's inside this housing, it's a standard, easy to find piece.

Does anyone make a CV flange for 1.5" 10 spline stuff. I would love to run a super duty 1350 front shaft

You called BKOR ? They're usually very helpful and have CNC milling / lathing capabilities.
 
A spare billet carrier bearing ?
I mean, I know I'm rough on shit, but this is next level.

Care to share how you break one of these ?
You have some other failure that results in some other object competing with the carrier bearing for physical space or the bearing has a failure and winds up spinning in the housing and wasting the bore.
 
You have some other failure that results in some other object competing with the carrier bearing for physical space or the bearing has a failure and winds up spinning in the housing and wasting the bore.

Sure.
With this logic you'd run only OEM parts that are available at NAPA under 24h.
 
Sure.
With this logic you'd run only OEM parts that are available at NAPA under 24h.
:shaking:

The fact that you have to take my point to the extreme to make it look stupid says a lot. The closer to the tire a part is the more stupid shit happens to it, generally speaking. For steering and suspension people tend to over build to compensate. For easier to replace but still custom to the vehicle stuff like axle shafts and driveline bits people tend to have spares. I wouldn't want a carrier bearing I can't easily replace for the same reason I wouldn't want to be using oddball driveshaft yokes or any other part that's subject to being trashed when the adjacent wear part goes. Sure you can do it and probably get away with it, probably, some of the time.

If that's still not good enough then you should probably throw something with a pair of tapered roller bearings at the problem. There are plenty of pictures online of various solutions people have come up with involving various types of unit bearings or old pinions and chunks of tube, of course those aren't very serviceable. A billet bearing housing occupies a dumb middle ground where it's neither cheap nor serviceable.

OP should probably just throw a 4-bolt flange style bearing at it and see how long it lasts. Can't break the feet off a housing that doesn't have them.
 
I was answering to the OP's question. He's looking for a billet carrier bearing and I provided him with an option.

Sorry a purpose built part made by an aftermarket company specially for the purpose of the OPs use doesn't tickle your fancy.

Following your logic, you can also carry a spare billet carrier bearing if you're worried about it. But unlike you, I've have these units in my hand and I am confident they would take a beating before letting go.
 
Shoot I have run a stock rubber midship mount for years without issue on my front 2 piece shaft.
 
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this is how i was going to do my carrier bearing, toyota flanges on both ends. small drive shaft. like 10 inches or less.
 
I

Good stuff here
I have one for sale. Including 1410 yokes and some tube. Anybody interested then message me.
 
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