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LINE-X Patriot Jeep

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So I downloaded the last 6 months photos and thought I would share what the interior is looking like. This is our 10" Tuffy Box Armrest. We stretched this as well so the push button lock mechanism was inside a padded hole. My kids used to hit their knees on the lock climbing in, so problem solved!

We had the interior done with two separate textures of black marine grade (p)leather with Ocean Blue UV Stable thread. We had the interior done by Poway Upholstery.
 
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Honestly, I didn't know. I only found this site by trying to track down info on the 4Link Calculator. It's good to see an active forum! :beer:

As I had mentioned on 1Sinner thread "CJ5 wild stretch and full build (Big Booty Judy)" I wanted the ability to have L-Track as we had some in the shop and it seemed as good of a use as any. So now were finishing off the underside of the Jeep. There are a few things we had to do. First I had to tack weld in a bunch of t-nuts as this is what we had on hand and they work well. There was an issue with me not verifying where holes came out on the bottom and in a few locations I could not weld on a t-nut looking for the solution, because there always is one we decided to make the Jeep tub a 1-Ton bed.

We took some 18 gauge steel and put in a few bends, notched them and will spot weld them on the bottom. This will help us accomplish a few things. First, we now have a flat surface to weld on some t-nuts. Next we reinforced the entire bed so that along with the L-Track I should be able to carry allot of ammo for example :lmao: as I like to exercise my 2d Amendment Right. The side plates are 3/4" (Tall) x 5" (Wide) with a 3/4" Base for spot welds. The center sections are 3/4" x 3.5" and the rear (not in photos) is 1" x 3.5" with .5 inch Base for spot welds. This will also give me a new location to place the 2nd from the rear body mount (Front Side of Fuel Tank). In the first photo of the t-nuts you will notice I now have two locations for this body mount with neither aligning where the real location is. I will tack weld all 4 of those plates in so they don't rattle. They will be covered by the steel you see in the other photos. Using Fusion 360 (Free) along with the Langmuir CNC, we will cut new backing plates for the tailgate hinges.

Next we had to recreate the rear most body mount support due to having to notch the frame for the TDK frame to exit straight out the back of the tub. We gained a higher departure angle by a few degrees for doing this so it all worked out well. While the tub was on the frame we measured out everything and decided to use a 1" x 2" .125 wall square tube for the rear mount. We cut a hole in the 1" x 2" on each end and welded in the rear body mount bolt, closed it back up, welded on a round pad for the body mount and called it a day.

Next we reinforced each wheel-well rear plate. After all the trouble we had trying to line two old Jeep tubs up and welding them together knows they are bent uniquely to the way they lived their lives, nothing lined up. So in an attempt to reinforce the sides of the Jeep to the tub of the Jeep we added in some 16 gauge plate by spot welding it and then using brush on seam sealer, this will get covered with LINE-X so it will be strong and water tight.

Next we added some piano hinges donated by Truck Cover U.S.A. (Friends of Ours) to the bottom to latter add a door. In the attempt to make this build super clean I am hiding a 1-Gallon ARB air tank in the drivers corner along with a 6 port air block for all the connections. More to follow.
 

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Interested in how you penetrate the tub for the upper coil over mounts on the tub and then seal that back up again. Currently playing with ideas for my car and cant quite picture an elegant solution.
 
Interested in how you penetrate the tub for the upper coil over mounts on the tub and then seal that back up again. Currently playing with ideas for my car and cant quite picture an elegant solution.
Since we went with trailing arms from RuffStuff I am not going to cut into the tub at all. The trailing arms will allow me to get away with using a shorter coil-over than if I had gone to the axle. Second, I haven't confirmed this with Throttle Down Kustoms (TDK), the maker of my frame, but I swear their body mounts are higher than factory?!?! I say this because I never could have fit the passenger side exhaust between the Atlas II and inner frame at full clock, now with the TDK frame I can.

I have not designed the rear shock tower in Fusion 360 yet but I know in me head what it looks like. Hopefully it works! My idea is based on the Artec Shock Tower, rather than cut it into the frame were going to weld it from the inner and outer sides. I will post this up when we get to it.

On other news the local high-school made a pretty good video to sort of catch people up to where we are, it's been a fun project working with the kids and their teach. I'll post a link when they make a final cut.
 
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This week was a pretty busy week doing LINE-X jobs so we only had time to work on the hood. Unlike the body which could be safely sandblasted, my powder coating company ECP Powder Coating advised that I not try it due to the potential of warpage from the heat. Since the hood lacks any supports on the inside center they recommended we use a sander and strip it down. So my guys stripped it with a high-speed and then used a DA Grinder to work out the deeper scratches. The reason we had some blue and black stripes we were testing some blues, specifically RAL 5008 which is flag blue.

Next we we cleaned out the old seam sealer foam, used a Harbor Freight Soda Blaster to blast inside the cavities of the inner supports. Next we applied some 3M Seam Sealer (08308) followed by applying POR 15 Top Coat and a 360 Degree Wand from JEGS to apply POR 15 inside the cavities. We are doing this anywhere on the Jeep where there is a cavity to ensure we don't have rust from the inside out.

Finally we used a 90 degree sander to clean up the excess 3M Seam Sealer as it turns into a hard rubber and tends to melt with a DA Sander. Next we found all the the imperfections and dents and applied some Evercoat Rage Ultra. I have to say I like this body filler as it sands fasts, doesn't clog the paper, and it's heavy so the dust tends to fall rather than float uo into the air. What I don't like is the set time, I have to make small batches otherwise I waste material. Latter this week we will spray the Axis 2K Primer which I really like, it alone fills and smooths off pinch welds saving me the time of using body filler.

So if you are ever working on metal edge that have been bent, we picked up the a 6" Sheet Metal Seamer from Harbor Freight. Yeah I know, cheap tools, but honestly this thing works well cleaning up the bent edges like you can see on the bottom of the hood.
 

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So I wanted to share why I think it's important to document these builds whether it be here, Pirate4x4, Jeep Forums, YouTube or Instagram or all of them like us. You never know when the next guy coming along will need a solution for a problem you or someone else may have already solved. I am a firm believer that all problems have a solution. Throughout this build I have tried to keep as true to the CJ as possible deviating only when necessary, like fitting a 40" tire. One challenge we knew we had to overcome is how to keep the stock looking controls for the HVAC system.

Our new controller from Class Auto Air came with the Billet Controller as seen below. We will be keeping the original HVAC controller locations but needed to have the indicators artwork updated to match the new 'turn' style knob rather than the original 'pull' cable style. So like everyone else who reads these forums you're looking for ideas and solutions, so that's where I started.

I came across this thread "Custom Dash Indicator Lights" on the Jeep Forum from 2011. Having been 11 years ago I was surprised when walkerhoundvm responded to my request. Having had a requirement years earlier he figured out the solution to his problem and has since helped some other Jeeper's like myself. Needless to say after a few emails and some ideas, I settled on a design although he provided me a few variations if I ever wanted to swap out the panels. I wanted a simple to understand indicators that would better represent a knob rather than a lever.

I can't thank walkerhoundvm enough, they look great!
 

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Although we are making slow but steady progress on the build I wanted to get you caught up on the cold air intake system we made. It started out when I first bought the RamJet 350, I always wanted to pull air through the fresh air box scoop. To begin we had to find a tight radius 4" 180 degree elbow. The only one we could find that would allow this to work was an 180 Degree Intercooler Turbo Pipe on Amazon. Next we used 9724 Spectre Universal Tube with a 9833 Spectre Air Filter Housing with a pre-filter from Outerwears.

Next we cut the 4" hole using a hols saw based on our desired location. Next we placed the HVAC box in it's mounting location so we could identify where the air intake system would have to curve so as to not contact the HVAC. Once we figured out our limits we cut the shape out on the Langmuir Plasma Table. The process actually took sometime to figure out each piece and it's fit and function. We used the Vulcan 160Amp Spool Gun to stick it together and hand sanded the curves on the inside. You will notice the small pock marks in the weld, again it's a spool gun. As for the final outside welds, that was TiG'd by our friend Jessee. I plan on doing a video with a GoPro inside the box and a garden hose hitting the intake, I am curious how fast it can drain.

Anyways, I am sure I am not the only person to do this or want to do it, let me know what you guys think?
 

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I have to admit I have been jumping around allot the past two weeks. As this build is done in our free-time I jump around depending on space in the shop, time, tools available etc. So lets get you caught up.

Image 1. We finally got the 2k Primer on the hood, looks as if I may need to build up a few layers but for now they are protected from the air as I had them raw metal for almost 2 months. I know you could not get away with this in other parts of the world but in Southern California I am comfortable leaving raw metal out for up to three months, were at 6 weeks with the tub since it came back from sand blast. Just prior to apply LINE-X Ultra we will be sending the hood, hardtop and doors to our friend Killer Dave to have him make sure they are smooth as glass.

Image 2. Next I have a photo of a Artec Shock Tower clamped in place. Although we will be fabricating our own towers this is the idea. Earlier someone mentioned cutting into the tub, we will not be doing that.

Image 3. and 4 are a small rust repair in seem of the driver door a-pillar.

Image 5. Rust repair in bottom of a-pillar both driver and passenger side.

Image 6. Took some poster board and and taped it in the windows. Based on the old windows there was a 3/8" gap around the window and the edge of the fiberglass top. Using a protractor were ran a 3/8" line around the edge, cut out the template and sent it over to our glass company All Star Glass who cut out the windows and sent it out to get tempered. Due to the original glass having a bend in it we went with 5mm glass which when tempered can be bent "slightly." We will see how it works, if all else fails we will go with an acrylic window.

Image 7. The valve covers were using have an old time muscle car look to them and with the rounded edges I though they complemented the Jeep CJ lines nicely. So we took them over to ECP Powder Coating to have wrinkle powder put on them. Next we took some 220 grit sand paper on an orbital along with a Dremel to sand away the powder revealing the nice silver fins. We will alson have the top of the RamJet intake CNC'd, powered, and sanded as well. More to come on that.

Image 8. Using PEX Tubing, a heat gun and several custom brackets we created conduit which will latter be foamed over and then LINE-X'd. This will allow is to not only sound deaden and insulate the sides of the Jeep, it gives us a conduit to hide the wires in. In the rear section in front of the "future" roll bar we have two what were calling are "flux capacitors" allowing us to run some 1/0 Gauge down the passenger side for an Inverter as well as the Warn 9.0 RC winch in the rear bumper. On the driver side we will run two 8 gauge cables to the ARB air compressor as well as the inputs for the solar panel which will be on the hardtop rack. See Image 10 as we frame it out.

Image 9. Started with 220 Grit then 320, 400, 800, Scotch Pad w/WD40, Dremel Polisher with several grits of rubbing compound finally ending it with a soft cloth and Never Dull. The problem with cast aluminum is it is not a even and surface so you really have to polish it down. In then end we will match it to the Specter Performance tubing.

Image 10. I cut down some solid red wood to make the internal frame which will not only give us the mounting points for the headliner, but will also act as a backing for the Rhino Tracks we got for a roof rack system were going to make. We will in time fiberglass the wood to the hardtop which should make the roof stronger.

Hope you guys enjoy and more importantly gives you ideas!
 

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I think it's a great way to strap ammo cans down. Contemplating put a strip or two on the rear sides of the tub to strap in scuba tanks, thoughts?
 
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So this week I have been really working hard to get the hardtop ready for 2k so we can get it put up in storage so I can get the tub on the table and start welding up the added support on the bottom of the bed. I have to admit, during test fitting the front half of the top we had it precariously resting on the Jeep tub in position and it fell off causing a compound brake in the Passenger B-Pillar at the curve. Little did I know at the time, but grinding out the roached fiberglass and making the curve the same turned out to be the hardest part of the fiberglass stretch. It took three attempts and largely caused me to lose interest in working on the top so I slid it right and put it off until now. Needless to say I am finally happy with the fiberglass work I did. It's not perfect but you wouldn't know if I didn't share my mistake.

I had always planned on adding am upholstered headliner to help keep the Jeep cool with some 3M Thinsulate behind it. We had to re-cut the side boards running front to rear as the front of the hardtop is wider than the rear causing the rear most Rhino Track Bolts from having a solid wood backing. It took allot of time assembly, measure, disassembly, trim. assemble, measure. etc. Next we rigged up a quick and east steam pipe, I found that it take about 30 minutes to get the 1/2" wood pliable enough to bend. The CJ roof has the slightest curvature on the roof to let water run off. Although the factory had one stiffener built into the fiberglass underside, it really was flimsy and after the stretch it was more so. The curve in the oak boards will help keep the roof shape held up as well as provide a strong foundation for the roof rack.

So we order the factory clamps and screws for the Rhino Track.

8x Part #A341 - M6 Dowel Nut Housing
8x Part #N027 - M6 x 16mm Dowel Nut
8x Stainless Steel - M6 x 35mm Security Screw (Abba Bolt)

Next we ordered 4x 1"x2"x.125"x 46" 6061 Aluminum (1/4" Wider than the outside edge of the Rhino Tracks) to build the rack off off. Next we ordered a few items to add a 100 watt solar panel to the front pair of beams and we got some lights from my buddy who owns OZ U.S.A. LED Lights.

For the solar system we went with:

Rich 100 Watts Solar Panel
Renogy Voyager 20Amp Waterproof Charger (IP67 Compliant)
iGreely Solar Panel Extension Cable - 10 foot

The Voyager waterproof controller will allow me to put the charge controller under the solar panel. Power wires will run under the headliner and out the factory 1" hole where the factory interior light wire runs. This will basically make the hardtop a charging center whether its on or off the Jeep. I plan on making an extension cable so can have it off and still use the panel if I were out camping.


As for the LEDs:
Front - 44" Flood /Spot
Corners - 2" Floods
Rear - 32" Slim Brake/Running/Turn Bar

The roof racks will be removable.

Additional Photos:
 

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I feel bad, lots of work and photos with little to no time to share.

I'll get some up sooner than latter but for now, we completed the rear notch, upgraded the sub-frame of the tub to a 1-ton, aligned the tailgate and cut the hinges which was one of the last challenges in doing this build. Due to the slope and angle of the hinge and the need to shorten it I felt lucky in nailing it first cut so I thought I would share a picture. By looking at the other hinge you can tell the amount of material removed.

Have a good week!

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Work has continued, just not all on video. We did manage to get the Partnership Video almost done before the teacher, Lucas moved to another position in the school. O'well it was fun. The link below is the final video minus a logo, which I forgot to send to them.

LINE-X of El Cajon School Partner Video
 
We need pics dangit!
Gotcha!

So since the last update we completed the sub-frame reinforcement due to the notched tub.
We competed the two-part roof rack / solar / lights.
We added hinged doors to each corner accessory (Air Tank Driver Rear Corner) and (Fuel Station Passenger Rear Corner).
We designed Version 1.0 Rear Shock Tower.
We finally putdown 2k Primer on the raw sandblasted metal (It's been almost a year since it sandblasted it).
We cut our Tuff Box to fit the modified tub.
We completed an aluminum dash skeleton which will allow us to wire the dash before we install it.

Pictures forthcoming....
 
Exactly. If you post a build here actually post the build. Posting to gain clicks for your videos is :rainbow:.


BTW, I stopped at Ray's a month or so ago when I was in NM..... He's still the same asshole I remembered from years ago. :lmao:

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Actually I am not trying to get clicks, don't care. More important to me as stated much much earlier in the thread is YouTube Video will always be here, pictures as we know get deleted when Forums update their PHP and MySQL Databases, just saying. Sorry you feel it was for clicks. I am assuming you mean "Roger" from Little 4x4? If that's his buggy, I do recall seeing that being build prior to departing El Paso for San Diego.

Trying to get through 1575 photos so I can find you 10 good ones.
 
Actually I am not trying to get clicks, don't care. More important to me as stated much much earlier in the thread is YouTube Video will always be here, pictures as we know get deleted when Forums update their PHP and MySQL Databases, just saying. Sorry you feel it was for clicks. I am assuming you mean "Roger" from Little 4x4? If that's his buggy, I do recall seeing that being build prior to departing El Paso for San Diego.

Trying to get through 1575 photos so I can find you 10 good ones.
Ya, my bad, Roger. His dad is Ray. :homer:
 
Glad to see he's still doing his thing, wish I had his rent and space.

O.k. so i cleaned my phone and organized 337 build images. Once of these days I am going to drop all of the images organized in folders for people to go through.

What I realized is had not shown the final images of the hardtop build so I will start with those.

The final part of the hardtop build was to install all of the hardware into the oak structure, drill holes, epoxy the boards in and then come back and put a layer of fiberglass over the wood. We did this to give the hardtop the rigidity it would need to support the roof racks we built.
 

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Couple of more...

The last part we did was completed the headliner using some "Hardboard Tempered Panel" and a little LINE-X to reinforce the screw holes. The will allow us to hide lighting wires and the solar wires. We had the headliner upholstered to match the seats with the double diamonds using the same thread which I happen to have a photo of. Unfortunately I never took a photo of the completed headliner so you'll have to stay in suspense.
 

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Next we had to build the rood rack with the following requirements:
  • Had to be unique.
  • Make it compliment the Jeep.
  • Include a 100 watt solar panel which can act as a power station when removed from he Jeep.
  • Minimalist lighting.
  • Capable of numerous mount options.
  • Removable.
So we had to make this out of aluminum, at the time we only had out Ominpro 220 which has the aluminum spool gun but I did not trust the result, boy was I wrong. So we purchased the TIG 200 so we could learn TIG and make the rack. After some practice and a little more practice, and then even more practice I deiced to go with the spool gun. My shop foremen has gotten pretty good with aluminum TIG, I just have a hard time keeping the pool going so as I have always said, I am a better grinder than I am a welder. In the end we made two racks.

The front rack houses a Rich 100 Watt Solar Panel can be manually lifted and locked in a tilted position giving you access to a Renology 20 amp Charge Controller. Next we have OZ U.S.A. LEDs lights as it's my buddy owns the company. On both the front and rear rack in the four corners were using 2" Round Floods as they work perfect to fill light in the typical blind-spots while providing the perfect ambient light when you're working around the Jeep and don't want to be blinded.

For the front light-bar, we went with the 38" 180W Single Row Flood/Spot combo and for the rear of the rear roof rack we put a 32" Multi Color Light bar which will come in useful for helping out the Patriot Guard when we have events.

The roof racks were made from 2" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum as well as a few sticks of 1" x 1" 1/8". On the rear rack incorporates L-Track from U.S. Cargo Control.
 

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A few more photos...
 

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I am a huge fan of L-Tack due to it's near limitless mounting capabilities and strength. Since we regularly stock this for upgrading utility trucks we though we would use this in the bed of the Jeep for both cargo as well as to make the rear seat easily removable while not jeopardize the rear passenger safety. To do this we welded on 72 T-Nuts from McMaster Carr to back the screws for the L-Track. we decided to weld them as it makes it much easier to install the screws. The created the problem of not all locations requiring a T-Nut were suitable for welding.

The second challenge we had on the bottom of the Jeep is the location of the second from the rear body mounts. Due to the stretch we had to relocated and manufacture the fuel tank cross beam body mounts. After some though we decided to bend up some 18 gauge (OEM was 20 gauge) and fabricate our own sub-frame reinforcements. I would argue the bed is a 1-Ton capable bed now.
 

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