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Line locks / cutting brakes

No way

Viking Mothfukle
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
33
Messages
790
Loc
Under the bus
We've had good luck with the Biondo line locks from Summit etc but with shipping costs and all I looked into the chicom alternatives from ebay.
They look decent enough for a simple device. It's pretty much just an electrically activated needle valve to lock brake fluid in or out of a circuit..

Anyone tried the cheapo ones or have recommendations on line lock actuators?

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I have done quality ball valves for brake locks on my last couple rigs. Something to think about as well. No experience with solenoid valves for brakes..
 
I would need two way lever operated valve setup for that.
Being on the clock when I need this I'm gonna mount a 2(3) way spring loaded switch on the gear lever so I just flick the switch the way I want to go and stamp the brake. It's also real easy to package in a small buggy.
I guess street car people probably use these more for burnouts n stuff.
 
I've been looking into this recently and BSing about it with CreeperSleeper.

On my Taco, I'm in the middle of a brake conversion and modifying lines anyway so I'm going to run a regular dual lever cutting brake setup. Packaging will be snug in a single cab, but I think having the levers will be smoother and fun on the trail.

Chad's rig is already driving and wheeling as-is, so he plans to add electronic line locks to the rear axle like you have posted. The only downside to this is that you have to stop, smash the brake, lock one wheel, then execute your turn. But the cost and labor to install are probably 25% of a full hydraulic lever setup.

Worth noting: you will need a selectable locker in the rear to make this work. A transfer case with front dig capability will tighten the turning radius even more, but Woody gets by just fine in 3wd with the rear diff unlocked. Videos for reference:

https://www.rockcrawler.com/forum/threads/cutting-brakes.3806/
 
Oh and as for brands, Summit/Jegs/B&M/etc don't make their own line locks anyway so if you find one from China that looks the same I would give it at least a 50/50 shot that it's the exact same product.

Buy from a decent vendor so you can return it if needed, and buy a spare to keep in the toolbox in case one fails.
 
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I'll be using them to select either left or right brakes for enhanced steering.
For digs I'll add a set of brake calipers in the rear as a separate e-brake system is mandatory anyway.

Think I'll give the chicom fab a go just for the hell of it
 
We've had good luck with the Biondo line locks from Summit etc but with shipping costs and all I looked into the chicom alternatives from ebay.
They look decent enough for a simple device. It's pretty much just an electrically activated needle valve to lock brake fluid in or out of a circuit..

Anyone tried the cheapo ones or have recommendations on line lock actuators?


So with the electronic ones do you still have to press the pedal and then flip the switch?.
 
I tired a cheap summit unit, it leaked internally out of the box. Replacement unit made it about 6 years, leaked again. Bough a rebuild kit for Hurst brand, all internal parts the same. A line lock really makes a big difference in burnout box at strip, but is also fun for asinine street behavoir.
:flipoff2:
 
I tired a cheap summit unit, it leaked internally out of the box. Replacement unit made it about 6 years, leaked again. Bough a rebuild kit for Hurst brand, all internal parts the same. A line lock really makes a big difference in burnout box at strip, but is also fun for asinine street behavoir.
:flipoff2:

Yep. I’d go thru back tires every couple months on my Lightning. :laughing:
 
Medusa (Jack Rice) ran electric line lock "turning brakes" on his FJ45 when it was a manual. Not sure if he is still running them or not, but I watched him use them a bit to get lined up. I don't think Jack is on here, but he is on Mud and Pirate occasionally.
 
Line locks are fun for burnouts but difficult to manage IMO for digs. I find that I'm often on-off-on-harder-off-on-lighter during a dig on the cutting brakes, or "was on the right, need a little more help, pull the left too", to get a dig to work how I wanted.
I have the laydown handle version of this: CNC Series 452 Dual Handle Cutting Brake | POLY PERFORMANCE but I don't see it on Poly's site presently.
Closest I can find right now to what I have is: EMPI 16-2543 - 3/4" Bore Dual Angled Handle Steering Brake - Kartek Off-Road
I'm solidly in the "want the dual handle variant" camp, others have different preferences.
 
On but also Off Topic. Does anyone know what swagelock line locks people were using? I want to get a couple to use for a parking brake incase a driveline brakes and I don't have a mechanical parking brake and would like to use these OR if I lose a rear or front brake line I want to shut that circuit off to not lose a bunch of fluid
 
Bumping this.

Looking for a manual line lock for doing front digs. Looking for a valve that doesn't leak, most reviews aren't good for these things. What's the valve to buy? Just want a reliable hand lever valve no fancy electronic ones.

This parker valve seems to have okay reviews but a few saying it leaks after a couple weeks.

Screenshot_20231113_202811_Chrome.jpg
 
I have a CNC cutting brake if your interested..New never used.
 
Bumping this.

Looking for a manual line lock for doing front digs. Looking for a valve that doesn't leak, most reviews aren't good for these things. What's the valve to buy? Just want a reliable hand lever valve no fancy electronic ones.

This parker valve seems to have okay reviews but a few saying it leaks after a couple weeks.

Screenshot_20231113_202811_Chrome.jpg


I have used these Allstar branded ones with no issues for 5 years. Looks very similar to the Parker one you posted.

 
Ditto on using the Allstar version. I believe the ones I have on the buggy have parker markings. No leaks on this rig or the previous rig I used them on. Saddest thing is that they are now as expensive for 1 as it used to be for 2.
 
Swagelok makes very high quality, high pressure stainless ball valves. That's what I used on my rear brake lock.
 
Swagelok makes very high quality, high pressure stainless ball valves. That's what I used on my rear brake lock.
This. I have used Swagelok valves for brakes in multiple rigs and never a problem. One set I bought used on ebay and had to snug up the packing gland a touch and never touched again and used for years.
 
I used this German hydraulic valve. MHA-Zentgraf Carbon Steel High Pressure Ball Valve, 1/4” NPT Female Threaded, up to 7000 PSI (500 Bar), BKH Type Hydraulic Flow Control Valve, 2 Port Shut-Off Valve Amazon.ca
Screenshot_20231115_202126_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
This. I have used Swagelok valves for brakes in multiple rigs and never a problem. One set I bought used on ebay and had to snug up the packing gland a touch and never touched again and used for years.

Can you recommend a PN? I found the SS-42GF2/ SS-43GF2. 3k psi rating and can connect to standard brake line with an Inverted Flare 3/8-24 to 1/8 npt fitting.
 
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Was thinking mine were SS-42F2 but that number doesn't seem to work but a SS-42GF2 does. SS prefix is stainless, can do B brass as well. Looks like 2500 psi rating and ptfe packing.

I knew there was a good reason I've been raiding the swagelok bin at work over the years..
 
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