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Lets tear apart a perfectly good truck

Could have been the gear drive also

Ive started trying to fix my old junk just because new stuff is likely to be shitty quality
 
Threw a charge air boot on to get started on those. Cold side turned out to be about as easy as it gets, straight shot! Using factory 12 valve boots on the engine side of both tubes (both are just a straight 3" coupler), and factory dmax boots on both sides of the charge air cooler. Then using some 3" exhaust pipe/ mandrel bends.

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Passenger side doesn't look too hard either.

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Had to cut out a section of the inner fender to clear the boot.

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The bead roller says its good for up to 18g steel, but had no problems with these 16g pipes.


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Had to massage the inner fender on the passenger side a bit to clear the hose, not too much though, it barely touched, just needed enough to make some clearance so it wasn't rubbing on it. Also, its really close to the radiator output as well. I wonder if an early duramax radiator has an angled water outlet to give it a little more room there.

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Got the fenders all bolted up for good, hopefully.

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Missing the inner fender skirt on the driver's side, have a new one on the way. Initially, I was planning on rebuilding the cutout with sheetmetal, but I think I'm going to just use a piece of rubber mat with some christmas tree clips. I think that will end up looking better then my sheetmetal fab skills would allow.

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Fan fits, thankfully. Not a lot of room, about half an inch at its closest point. No more water crossings for the tow rig!


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Finally got the fan shroud to fit. Took a lot of mutilation, but it cleaned up better then I thought it would while i was hacking on it. I never did measure the difference in diameter of the two fans, but the cummins one is apparently larger. Had to hack a lot of the shroud out. As well as move it over about an inch and a half or so, you can see the original holes in the top cover.

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Had to notch this bracket a little to be able to slide the whole fan shroud over.

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The fan sticks up higher then the original fan so I needed to space it up in the center a little bit, otherwise I would have had to cut the top of the shroud off, exposing the fan. The wood was a temporary test fit that may or may not have ended up staying there.

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It fits, closest point the blades come to hitting are about 11 and 1 o'clock on the shroud. Its really close there, might have to space it up more if it's an issue. But it's already about as far as I can stretch the shroud up and down. Of the four bolts that bolt the top and bottom half together, I left out the two inside bolts because it would pull the top half down far enough to hit the fan.

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That fans close. Dont they flex?

I know ive had fans that flex enough that it would be a problem
 
BustedCrank said:
Also went with the adventure vehicles NW engine mounts. From what I could find they are the only ones that place the engine low and far enough back that you can use the mechanical fan, and no body lift is required. They use anchor 2710 motor mounts, which are the factory rubbers for a 1st gen cummins truck.
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I read that those mounts move a lot. I’d suggest to take the fan off before firing it up and verify how much movements it’ll have.
 
TrailTamer said:
I read that those mounts move a lot. I’d suggest to take the fan off before firing it up and verify how much movements it’ll have.
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That's probably not a bad idea. I know they move around a bit, but i would think that'd be more side to side vs front to back.
 
Was looking around in the FSM for some wiring diagrams of the truck today. Nice to have, but having it on the computer vs in your hands sucks. Came across the section called
SPEED DEPENDENT STEERING
ELECTRONIC VARIABLE ORIFICE (EVO)

Apparently, there's a whole system tied in with the VSS, passlock/ VCM, and some sensors on the steering wheel. All to control the "Steering Assist Control Solenoid" that is located on the power steering pump discharge fitting. So thats what that this was. It supposed to cut down on the pressure from the pump while your moving faster so it creates a better steering feel. Good news is the faster you go, the more current it gives it to restrict flow. So ditching the solenoid will not restrict it at all, which is good, because i'm trying to ditch the computer.
 
aczlan said:
It's pulling air from front to back, under a heavy load I would expect a plastic fan blade to flex forwards at least a little.

Aaron Z
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Agreed, but i don't think the leading edge of the metal blades will flex a half inch, not running under 4k rpm anyway. Do you?
 
That's close, I'd hate to lose my tow rig radiator on a Sunday night away from home with a trailer:homer:

You might look into the fan hub a little more. The numbers posted on rock auto are suspect, they didn't change between 1st and 2nd gen dodges as they should


Also if you're worried about that lower hose sucking shut, put a hose clamp around it in the middle. The lower hose on my fummins was suspect, so I called my buddy to ask if the clamp was a shitty fix. "You'll see one on half of every race car out there" OK then:laughing:
 
Alright, looked into the 1st gen fan hub a little bit. Turns out it's just the IC 1st gen trucks that had the different hub setup. The non IC trucks had the same setup as the Ppump trucks. It does bring the fan closer to the engine. However it brings it over to the passenger side (not a huge deal for me), but it also moves the fan up as well. Looks like it would interfere with the tensioner setup I've got. Also would bring the fan up high enough I would loose the fan shroud. Here's a couple pictures I came across while duckducking from ramchargercentral.com.


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I'm thinking I'll go have a look at the fan/fan clutch. Wonder if just making a spacer between the fan and clutch would be an option.
 
Not-so-Subtle suggestion:

I’ve always wanted to mess with one of these body’s rules… and take the marker/blockers and relocating them to the number, and replacing them with another set of driving/hi-beam lamps… double the light, similar “stock-ish” look.
 
BustedCrank said:
Alright, looked into the 1st gen fan hub a little bit. Turns out it's just the IC 1st gen trucks that had the different hub setup. The non IC trucks had the same setup as the Ppump trucks. It does bring the fan closer to the engine. However it brings it over to the passenger side (not a huge deal for me), but it also moves the fan up as well. Looks like it would interfere with the tensioner setup I've got. Also would bring the fan up high enough I would loose the fan shroud. Here's a couple pictures I came across while duckducking from ramchargercentral.com.


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I'm thinking I'll go have a look at the fan/fan clutch. Wonder if just making a spacer between the fan and clutch would be an option.
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What year is your fan clutch from?
Per RockAuto the fan clutch is the same for the first generation intercooled trucks and all the second generation trucks up to 2000, they all use the Hayden 2798 which is 3.27" thick.
2001 and newer trucks got the Hayden 2842 which is 3.72" thick (again, per Rock Auto).

Aaron Z
 
Fan clutch I would assume is stock for the motor, which is out of a 95 i believe.

You might be onto something there...

Looks like the mounting thread is the same, have to see if the fan bolt pattern matches up.


Edit: Looks like the fan bolt pattern is the same as well.
 
rockota said:
Not-so-Subtle suggestion:

I’ve always wanted to mess with one of these body’s rules… and take the marker/blockers and relocating them to the number, and replacing them with another set of driving/hi-beam lamps… double the light, similar “stock-ish” look.
Click to expand...
It'd help, these headlights are garbage with the low beams, the aftermarket housings I've got probably aren't helping either. Don't think there's enough room for a set of headlights where the park lights are, with the intercooler in the way now. On a stock rig I bet it'd be easy though.

I think there was a thread at the old place that had a bunch of guys building their own LED light bars. I had thought about building small light bars to put in place of the headlights if I could figure out how to do half of them with an sae pattern as to not blind everyone that was oncoming, never went past much of a thought though.

Either way, going to have to do something about the light situation on the front eventually. For now its going to get a set of piaa amber fog projectors with HID bulbs in the bumper ti replace those current cheapos that are in it. I bought the projectors several years ago to put in the blackout light spots in the grill of my jeep. Just never got around to doing it. If it doesn't work well, I'll get a set of Diode dynamics sae fog leds like i put on the front of my k5, those things are great, just spendy.
 
put your chevy fan blade on the cummins fan clutch, moves the blades in a bit so it keeps them away from the radiator.
 
I'll check that out as well, I was originally going to try that because I didn't have a fan for the cummins, and couldn't find any replacements for the metal ones. I got a hold of one, and now I see you can get a metal fan from Dorman.
 
Took a peek at the fan on the 454, it would give me almost a half inch more clearance...if it rotated the correct way.

This is the fan clutch I have.

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Found this picture from the reviews on summit while I was looking for a standard rotation fan. But you have no idea the fan depth on most of them to know if they would help or not.
01 cummins on the left, 96 cummins on the right.

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Looking at that picture, looks like it would only gain me about a quarter inch. But hard to say for sure. The two pictures on rockauto look like it would be more.
 
yeah you need a pre-87 fan blade, I forgot they are reverse rotation after that.
 
Found a Derale 17120

Its a 20" steel, standard rotation fan. Is 2" thick in total, and the mounting surface is in the middle, so 1 inch on either side. I measured the current fan, its got 2" out ahead of the mounting surface. So that would work. Will be close on the engine side to the tensioner, and probably going to be a bitch to get the fan bolts tight, as well as the clutch. But I think this will be the best way to go.
 
Haven't had much time to mess with the truck, but I did have a little win over the weekend though. I had been searching for a fitting for AC lines, the one that goes into the canister on the firewall. I found all the other pieces I think I need to make lines, but this one eluded me for some reason. I didn't know what it was called, and couldn't find any mention of it. Even took it to a place that does all the lines for the trucks at work, and they couldn't get it, they usually would just put a new bell on the fitting if they didn't have a new fitting in stock, but they couldn't even do that because the way the bell crimped was a different style/size they didn't have.

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I finally found what I was looking for, Four Seasons 14494
Just called a GM Double Oring, which, I swear i searched that several times and came up with nothing. But punch in that part number and everybody has it from ebay, to summit, to amazon. Not so hard to find when you know what you're looking for.

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arse_sidewards said:
One day I too hope to hate money enough that I swap engines when cheap external fuel/ignition parts start going bad. :flipoff2:
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I don't know about his setup but I just did the injectors on my '98 350 and it was neither external or cheap. Although it's still a lot cheaper than an engine swap...
 
BustedCrank said:
Haven't had much time to mess with the truck, but I did have a little win over the weekend though. I had been searching for a fitting for AC lines, the one that goes into the canister on the firewall. I found all the other pieces I think I need to make lines, but this one eluded me for some reason. I didn't know what it was called, and couldn't find any mention of it. Even took it to a place that does all the lines for the trucks at work, and they couldn't get it, they usually would just put a new bell on the fitting if they didn't have a new fitting in stock, but they couldn't even do that because the way the bell crimped was a different style/size they didn't have.

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I finally found what I was looking for, Four Seasons 14494
Just called a GM Double Oring, which, I swear i searched that several times and came up with nothing. But punch in that part number and everybody has it from ebay, to summit, to amazon. Not so hard to find when you know what you're looking for.

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Click to expand...
Is the thread direction the same between both of those? I know on some fittings (like for Acetylene or Hydrogen) the notches in the nut like the first picture indicate that it's a left hand thread.


Aaron Z
 
I sure hope so. Never thought about it being left hand thread. Guess I'll find out when it gets here. The one in my hand is right hand. I thought the notches meant metric.
 
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