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jd2 model 32 vs model 4

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about to buy a tube bender and trying to make a decision between the two, i dont have any experience with tube benders(built lots of crap with a HF pipe kinker) so i figured id ask the more experienced guys here. jd2's website has a much longer description for the model 32 almost making it seem like the better(cheaper) option, but i would rather pay the extra money for the model 4 if its the better bender. i want to be able to bend 2"x.250" tube without any problems and do it with a ram, any feedback would be great

should i consider other benders? rogue fab?
 
I’ve bent 2” .250 with my JD2 32, full hydro. Great unit.

The only difference between the 4 and 32 that I remember is that the 4 will do an S bend with less than inch between the bends. The 32 to make an S you’ll have a 3” straight between the bends the way the tube is held in the die.

I’ve used Woodward Fab and other knock offs with air over hydro rams. The speed and accuracy of the 32 is top notch.
 
I believe I have the 32 also

no complaints, lots of dies to choose from

pro tip
If you have a friend that has the same bender, pick up different dies than they have, then if you need that size for a quick project you can swap
 
Bought the model 3 when I was a teenager, great bender. Bought a model 32 a few years ago and just added the swag clamp and hf air/hydro cyl. Fucking badass. I've bent lots of 1.75x188 and 1.5x120 chromo, which believe it or not seems to strain it about the same. I'm. Pretty sure it would do 2x250. Maybe grab a larger radius die for that type of shit anyway.
 
Can the 32 do 2.5 dia? Pretty sure the 4 dies are unique.
 
I have a 32 with a air/hydro setup and have used a 4 quite a bit. After using the 32 setting up a bend on the 4 seemed like alot more work. Plus it takes up more space.
 
I have the rogue. Its a good unit, though die changes are a PITA. I like the fact all dies are 180 degree dies, but you have to run .120 wall .250 max wall with standard unit. Unless you buy the thin wall attachment .120 is the minimum pipe thickness. Lower initial buy in with more dies. Used an air over hydro model a few times. They're nice set ups.
 
I have a model 4 with the elect/hyd. Very happy with it. I've never used a 32, but just from the pictures, I like the way the model 4 does the degree reading better.

Hyd is the way to go. Bumping a button only takes a little finger strength. Plus, mine is on casters, I just roll it where needed or out of the way.
 
well after looking more closely at the dies the model 4 dies are only good to .188(2" is down to .134") where as the model 32 dies say theyre good to .250 on most





I found this interesting, so I just went out in the shop and stuck a piece of 2" x .250" in it and hit the button. Got about 15* and it ran out of ass.
Seems strange because the dies look exactly the same in the pictures except for how the tube is held from slipping. The ram and power packs are the same.
 
i found it odd, i honestly have no idea but the only thing i can come up with is maybe the model 4 is better suited for a fab shop that uses it every day and model 32 is better for occasional use and thicker tube?

when purchasing tools that are more than a few hundred dollars i typically like to spend a few hundred extra and get the more expensive "better" model but in this case im beginning to think i should just go for the 32
 
Before I forget to mention it and it may be something you already do.

Take a paint pen and write the start of bend degrees and the springback on the dies. Makes life easier. Springback will change with wall thickness but start degrees will be the same.
 
i found it odd, i honestly have no idea but the only thing i can come up with is maybe the model 4 is better suited for a fab shop that uses it every day and model 32 is better for occasional use and thicker tube?

when purchasing tools that are more than a few hundred dollars i typically like to spend a few hundred extra and get the more expensive "better" model but in this case im beginning to think i should just go for the 32
I don't understand it either. Only thing I could guess, is that the lever arms are different lengths between the two.
 
32 with the SWAG kit mounted on a modified engine stand.

You won't be upset about it.


But I gotta ask...Are you feeling ok?:flipoff2:
 
Before I forget to mention it and it may be something you already do.

Take a paint pen and write the start of bend degrees and the springback on the dies. Makes life easier. Springback will change with wall thickness but start degrees will be the same.
Ever bent chromo? The spring back is so much different from mild I had to relearn how to bend tube:laughing:

I don't know hoe to explain it. It almost ends in a larger radius, with the same die.
 
Before I forget to mention it and it may be something you already do.

Take a paint pen and write the start of bend degrees and the springback on the dies. Makes life easier. Springback will change with wall thickness but start degrees will be the same.
Yes, I agree
You will want to keep on top of thicknesses, spring back, and all the other variables
there is a learning curve
 
i found it odd, i honestly have no idea but the only thing i can come up with is maybe the model 4 is better suited for a fab shop that uses it every day and model 32 is better for occasional use and thicker tube?

when purchasing tools that are more than a few hundred dollars i typically like to spend a few hundred extra and get the more expensive "better" model but in this case im beginning to think i should just go for the 32
call them, they probably know :beer:
 
Bought the model 3 when I was a teenager, great bender. Bought a model 32 a few years ago and just added the swag clamp and hf air/hydro cyl. Fucking badass. I've bent lots of 1.75x188 and 1.5x120 chromo, which believe it or not seems to strain it about the same. I'm. Pretty sure it would do 2x250. Maybe grab a larger radius die for that type of shit anyway.
how did you mount the HF air/hydro cyl? jd2s kit?

im now debating whether i should get the hydro version model 32 or just get the manual version model 32 and add a HF air/hydro cyl like you did

jd2s hydro cyl requires a hydro/air pump thats an extra 590$ and requires 20cfm at 100psi
 
how did you mount the HF air/hydro cyl? jd2s kit?

im now debating whether i should get the hydro version model 32 or just get the manual version model 32 and add a HF air/hydro cyl like you did

jd2s hydro cyl requires a hydro/air pump thats an extra 590$ and requires 20cfm at 100psi

I'm sure the jd stuff is a lot nicer, but this was way better than cranking a handle.
 
I got the full hydro kit, worth the extra coin in my opinion. I’ve used air over hydro setups before, I couldnt imagine doing a whole cage/chassis with one. They’re loud and slow.
 
I got the full hydro kit, worth the extra coin in my opinion. I’ve used air over hydro setups before, I couldnt imagine doing a whole cage/chassis with one. They’re loud and slow.
I started out with the air over pump, it was "accidentally" smashed at work and replaced with an electric one. 2x as fast and quiet.
 
Ever bent chromo? The spring back is so much different from mild I had to relearn how to bend tube:laughing:

I don't know hoe to explain it. It almost ends in a larger radius, with the same die.

No, I have never worked with chromo.

90% of the cage in my jeep is 2" x .120" DOM steel and the model 4 didn't even break a sweat on it. When I tried 2" x .250" last night.............it tapped out.
 
how did you mount the HF air/hydro cyl? jd2s kit?

im now debating whether i should get the hydro version model 32 or just get the manual version model 32 and add a HF air/hydro cyl like you did

jd2s hydro cyl requires a hydro/air pump thats an extra 590$ and requires 20cfm at 100psi
I still row the boat
It isn't that bad

If you hate it, you can upgrade
 
Another option for ram mounting that uses the thicker, intended mounting point for the ram, instead of clamping to the thin wall tubing on the ram body. That an an old garage spring does the trick:smokin: Kicked this out when the older offset swag style mount I had finally tweaked the ram enough that it was leaking and didn't want to work anymore - looks like their design has improved and it's at least centered now...

IMG_8108.jpg
 
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