Getting more uptravel is good. Even better if it was a larger diameter.
I missed the weight earlier. Looking at the chart you posted earlier:I'm 6200-6400 on the front axle. Run around 80 psi
That puts you at 3100-3200 per bag which is right at the top of the range for 80PSI (down in the 6" range and you hit the bumps at 5.4")
Is there room to re-align the mounts to line them up at the higher ride height? Looks to me almost like the mounts come out of alignment as you get the bags to the right height for your load.
I missed the weight earlier. Looking at the chart you posted earlier:
That puts you at 3100-3200 per bag which is right at the top of the range for 80PSI (down in the 6" range and you hit the bumps at 5.4")
Looking at your picture with more pressure:
Is there room to re-align the mounts to line them up at the higher ride height? Looks to me almost like the mounts come out of alignment as you get the bags to the right height for your load.
Aaron Z
Radius arm problems.
But that weird angle looks like track bar geometry induced not "radius".
FIFY
Figure out a way to keep the bags and brackets square and level at ride height, but enough room on the frame side for the suspension to fully compress and extend without the bags or brackets hitting. It doesn't matter if its not quite square sitting on the bumps or fully extended on a lift or something, but at ride height, especially with radius arms, your going to want it square.
OK been driving this beast and thinking all day. A few things come to mind.
One, use the bags I have, cut brackets lower to run the bag taller. Less bottoming, and puts it in a flatter area of the load curve. But higher bag pressure.
Two, back to the tires just being fucking bricks? I have never ran anything but 19.5's (although factory 450 guys seem to like kelderman and come on 19.5.s). How much safety factor is in LT tires? I would be running them pretty much at max load rating 100% of the time.
Three, trans tune. I wish it would drop and hold a gear on grades sometimes. Instead it runs lower rpm's whcih drives boost way up. more rpms seems to make it flow more air and drops boost down. Thoughts?
Two, back to the tires just being fucking bricks? I have never ran anything but 19.5's (although factory 450 guys seem to like kelderman and come on 19.5.s). How much safety factor is in LT tires? I would be running them pretty much at max load rating 100% of the time.
?
Are you just looking at the front axle for LT tires?
Can you just lock out the higher gears with the +/- on the shifter?
When I had 19.5s on my dodge with big ass camper, I grew to hate them, they just rode bad.
Do you think you're setup weighs more then ever Class C? Those are all just 16" wheels.
At 12k gross you are going to pushing LT tires to the limit and at minimum won't be able to air down much at all from the 80 psi.
19.5's are rough as shit no way around it but those big meatballs you are running should be better than the standard rib.
The guy with the Kelderman kit took another forum member for a ride with the 5er where they proclaimed it was as good as his 2020 F150....
Thats either confirmation bias or your rear springs are having a much larger effect than you thought.
14k :D
I really do think its the front.... But who knows at this point.... I just don't get it. It was not any better on the factory 19.5's If I am going slow over steel construction plates etc I can feel the front and rear separate.
No LT all around. I am 8k on the rear (last time I weighed) and some LT are rated for 4030 now.
I am single in the rear though, a 16" cant take the weight as a single. Id like to avoid going back to duals. And I highly doubt I would find a 16" in 10x225.
And yeah, I am wandering if that is part of the issue. I like the safety margin of them, and beadlocks, but Is it worth the trade off in ride? IDK, but another dude has these same ones and prefers them to the MPT81's he has also.....
I noticed a minute ago my math was off LOL
As a side note when I was pulling my toy hauler with my Excursion I killed 4 rear 18" D rated tires from Toyo and BFG that were rated over 4K and I was not even close that on the rear more like 32-3500. No way I would trust them singled in your application for the rear.
Oh, I thought you were DRW. Now you know your next change then, adding DRW is really nice.
The BFG's broke belts and exploded caused over $7K in damage to the truck twice, Michelin paid for the second failure but hosed me on the first one.
Switched to E rated Toyo's and had the same failures but no blowout on a trip to Branson, MO.
Broke one in Arkansas and one coming back through Oklahoma.
No way I would want single LT's on that rig.