It's All About The Little Details---Trailers Flatbeds and Tow Rigs

Muckin_Slusher

Muckin_Slusher

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Miss this thread from the old days. Looking forward to it taking off here.

Post any details that make trailers/flatbeds and tow rigs awesome.

Nothing ground shattering to start, but at least it might help increase irate traffic.

Modular Trailer. Took an old sleazy hauler boat trailer and welded out all the u-bolt connections to make it silent (I hate noisy trailers). Then used a ton of receiver tube to make sockets to accept 2 inch tubing for uprights, with 1/2 inch pins.

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Uprights are 2x2x1/8 tubing, horizontal bars are 1x1 with chainlink welded at the ends for tying down points. All modular, easy to add/remove modify.

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Needed lights for the trailer. Here's what I came up with. One switch is 3 way for backup, off or on for the 4 lights under the trailer. On, off for the neck. On, off for box lights. The 4th is for future. Click image for larger version Name: 20181231_195807.jpg Views: 0 Size: 79.6 KB ID: 25630 Click image for larger version Name: 20181231_200314.jpg Views: 0 Size: 194.1 KB ID: 25631 Click image for larger version Name: 20190112_201445.jpg Views: 0 Size: 132.4 KB ID: 25632 Click image for larger version Name: 20190112_201454.jpg Views: 0 Size: 125.4 KB ID: 25633
 
Here's one I put together for on call repairs in the open pit mine I work at. The frame of the bed came from a wreck and I used it as a starting point, and skinned it with diamond plate.

Purchasing is an impossible task, so most of this was done with whatever was on hand, or if i could order something, I ordered 5 :laughing:

I had a big focus on job site safety, the guys that run these trucks run them round the clock on uneven surfaces, falls and rolled ankles are common. I built this to do everything from the ground, the compressor is controlled from a box behind the cab on drivers side, there's a dump valve so compressor can be dumped and started, there's air pressure gauge and volt meter for the 24 volt system right there at the drivers door, air hose reel right there, drops close to the truck to prevent tripping. Big tool boxes on drivers side so he can do 90% of his work without walking around the truck, I built the post on the back as a hand hold when you need to get in, a place for a work light, and a place to wrap jumper cables.

I cut in removable panels to access the top of fuel tank and def tank, welded nuts underneath, built in trash can and rag bin, set compressor back from headache rack a foot for repair access, and used that space for the ladder storage. All hoses and fittings are tucked away, shrouded or whatever to prevent damage.

the flammable cabinets get smashed often, so it's easily replaceable with a fabricated strap and threaded holes

the boxes are wired for lights, but the led strips that purchasing came up with sucked and never got done right

I didn't like that I had to put the extinguisher on passenger side, i think I forget if i put one in the bottom box on drivers side

Painted the thing black, then hit the deck with raptor liner. In the end, it would have been better to skip the paint and the labor hours on it, and just buy more raptor liner

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Projectjunkie said:
Here's one I put together for on call repairs in the open pit mine I work at. The frame of the bed came from a wreck and I used it as a starting point, and skinned it with diamond plate.

Purchasing is an impossible task, so most of this was done with whatever was on hand, or if i could order something, I ordered 5 :laughing:

I had a big focus on job site safety, the guys that run these trucks run them round the clock on uneven surfaces, falls and rolled ankles are common. I built this to do everything from the ground, the compressor is controlled from a box behind the cab on drivers side, there's a dump valve so compressor can be dumped and started, there's air pressure gauge and volt meter for the 24 volt system right there at the drivers door, air hose reel right there, drops close to the truck to prevent tripping. Big tool boxes on drivers side so he can do 90% of his work without walking around the truck, I built the post on the back as a hand hold when you need to get in, a place for a work light, and a place to wrap jumper cables.

I cut in removable panels to access the top of fuel tank and def tank, welded nuts underneath, built in trash can and rag bin, set compressor back from headache rack a foot for repair access, and used that space for the ladder storage. All hoses and fittings are tucked away, shrouded or whatever to prevent damage.

the flammable cabinets get smashed often, so it's easily replaceable with a fabricated strap and threaded holes

the boxes are wired for lights, but the led strips that purchasing came up with sucked and never got done right

I didn't like that I had to put the extinguisher on passenger side, i think I forget if i put one in the bottom box on drivers side

Painted the thing black, then hit the deck with raptor liner. In the end, it would have been better to skip the paint and the labor hours on it, and just buy more raptor liner
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Would you like a tutorial on how to post proper piktures instead of thumbnails? :flipoff2:

Edit: Oh, and, nice job by the way. I like the light towers.
 
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Muckin_Slusher said:
Would you like a tutorial on how to post proper piktures instead of thumbnails? :flipoff2:

Edit: Oh, and, nice job by the way. I like the light towers.
Click to expand...

I apparently had to re size these and something got fucky. I could use a tutorial on that. And how to transfer contacts onto my new droid. And how to use my $3k plasma table I've been stacking shit on since October. I'm a low tech redneck, lmk when you make it to Tucson, I'll grill steaks:laughing:
 
C purlin trailer floor

I know most of you guys have already seen this. I think I did this around 2016, at the time it was around $100 over the cost of treated. They're welded at every crossmember and really stiffened the trailer up. Coated with herculiner, then painted light gray so it wouldn't be 900 degrees in the summer.

Do it once and never touch it again
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45acp said:
C purlin trailer floor

I know most of you guys have already seen this. I think I did this around 2016, at the time it was around $100 over the cost of treated. They're welded at every crossmember and really stiffened the trailer up. Coated with herculiner, then painted light gray so it wouldn't be 900 degrees in the summer.

Do it once and never touch it again
Click to expand...

Holy shit, that is a LOT of skid steer on tandem 3500s :eek:

How'd it tow?
 
45acp said:
C purlin trailer floor

I know most of you guys have already seen this. I think I did this around 2016, at the time it was around $100 over the cost of treated. They're welded at every crossmember and really stiffened the trailer up. Coated with herculiner, then painted light gray so it wouldn't be 900 degrees in the summer.

Do it once and never touch it again
Click to expand...

Nice. My 1990 big tex car trailer I rebuilt it using treated wood. I may eventually redo the floor. I'll have to look at this option.
 
I'm not completely sold on this yet but I figured I'd give it a try. I took one of those spare tire hoists made for a camper that I found on Amazon and mounted it under my car trailer to hide my spare and keep it out of the weather without having to worry about a tire cover. Instead of a hand crank I just plan on using a ratchet and socket to lower the tire if needed. My only concerns so far will be if it shakes back and forth and breaks a weld on a really nasty road or if the winch seizes up. So far so good though.

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RampageFSJ said:
I'm not completely sold on this yet but I figured I'd give it a try. I took one of those spare tire hoists made for a camper that I found on Amazon and mounted it under my car trailer to hide my spare and keep it out of the weather without having to worry about a tire cover. Instead of a hand crank I just plan on using a ratchet and socket to lower the tire if needed. My only concerns so far will be if it shakes back and forth and breaks a weld on a really nasty road or if the winch seizes up. So far so good though.
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Do you have a link for the hoist you used?

I have seen this using JY parts, but not many yards here where you can go pick yourself.
 
I want another military M762 its a little trailer perfect for pulling behind a jeep or a 1 ton or a duece or a 5 ton.

You will see why when you see it.

Ill look for my pics of the one I had and post em up.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
\n\nDo you have a link for the hoist you used?\n\nI have seen this using JY parts, but not many yards here where you can go pick yourself.
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\n\nhttps://www.amazon.com/BAL-R-V-Produ...2008949&sr=8-2\n\nIt\'s adjustable for different frame widths but I just put it as short as it went and put angle iron between a couple crossmembers for the inner mount. I was thinking about using junkyard parts but then came across this and figured I\'d give it a try.\n\nI was also thinking about building some kind of pivoting skid like this but didn\'t have enough clearance.\nhttps://www.amazon.com/BAL-28218-Hid.../dp/B00KPQYV0E
 
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RampageFSJ said:
I'm not completely sold on this yet but I figured I'd give it a try. I took one of those spare tire hoists made for a camper that I found on Amazon and mounted it under my car trailer to hide my spare and keep it out of the weather without having to worry about a tire cover. Instead of a hand crank I just plan on using a ratchet and socket to lower the tire if needed. My only concerns so far will be if it shakes back and forth and breaks a weld on a really nasty road or if the winch seizes up. So far so good though.
Click to expand...

I think yours is in the same location as mine, right side before the axle, I haven't drug it yet, put it on the right to keep yourself from standing in traffic

I used a ford ranger winch (nothing rusts here) and swap meet 3/8 drive extensions and US made u joint, welded up and welded a lug nut to the end, so I always have the correct size
 
I didn't like how the d rings were attached on my dump trailer, I didn't want them on the floor since I would think shit would catch on them. This was my solution.

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3/8-1/2" chain hook fits perfectly. With the d rings the chain hook was too big to pass through. Now I can just hook my binder right too it, much faster.
 
RampageFSJ said:
\n\nhttps://www.amazon.com/BAL-R-V-Produ...2008949&sr=8-2\n\nIt\'s adjustable for different frame widths but I just put it as short as it went and put angle iron between a couple crossmembers for the inner mount. I was thinking about using junkyard parts but then came across this and figured I\'d give it a try.\n\nI was also thinking about building some kind of pivoting skid like this but didn\'t have enough clearance.\nhttps://www.amazon.com/BAL-28218-Hid.../dp/B00KPQYV0E
Click to expand...
\n\nI\'ve thought about that second type a few times. It would fit on one trailer, not the other. I somehow never thought about a winch. Thanks for posting!
 
OHV Wildcat said:
I've thought about that second type a few times. It would fit on one trailer, not the other. I somehow never thought about a winch. Thanks for posting!
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No problem. I think the second type would work on a deckover or something with more clearance. Plus I saw an idea somewhere that someone mounted a box next to the tire on the skid for some more storage and that looked pretty slick. Or you could mount a second spare to the skid if needed.
 
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