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It's a Nissan, Not a Ford.

Camping
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Wheeling an old forgotten track to a hidden valley
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Heading home
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Thought about starting a new thread for a new build but then decided one thread was less work. Rebuilding my old winch challenge car. Making some updates to the chassis and new single cab body and cage to make it fit in some different class rules.
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I used the axles out of this for the work ute build so starting with a new front axle housing this weekend. Made these parts to brace the knuckles which is where they most commonly bend. The ring is to protect the drain plug.

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Does the winch blocking so much of the radiator cause this to operate much hotter? It looks like your entire radiator is blocked by the 8274.
 
Had a wheeling trip where the slow mount wasn't gonna cut it. Knocked up this bar to take the old Competition spec 8274. Ugly but it worked.
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I always thought high mount winches were good for competitions, not regular ol' wheeling. Why the need for a fast winch when wheeling with buddies? Just curious :)
 
I always thought high mount winches were good for competitions, not regular ol' wheeling. Why the need for a fast winch when wheeling with buddies? Just curious :)
More rope, air free spool, faster, more powerful. All makes for an easier time moving along at a better pace with less messing around.
 
Crossmember bridging the coil buckets is a smart touch. Repaired a few of those on Patrols over the years...
 
Crossmember bridging the coil buckets is a smart touch. Repaired a few of those on Patrols over the years...
Yeah It's pretty standard and easy way to do it. I add some angle inside the coil hats too. I'd been doing it that way for years after being shown it by a mate. Last year I did a repair for an old farmer and he told me that back in the day NIssan had recommended that as the recall action when the Farmers started having the coil hats rip off.
 
I Keep expecting to see the rear panhard mount cut off. You keeping it 5-link?
 
I Keep expecting to see the rear panhard mount cut off. You keeping it 5-link?
Yeah for now at least. I haven't properly looked at doing the 4 link for a couple reasons. I've got to get it rego'd first so I'm keeping the real mods to a minimum to make that process easier. I want to look at a 4 link after that but I think it will probably be a no go because 4600 rules prohibit removing fixed cross members and I'm pretty sure I'd need to do that to get good geometry on the upper links.
 
4-link fits OK with that crossmember remaining with a downward bend in the upper links and the chassis end mounted on the inside face of the chassis rails.
I've done it and it works well with a nice, flat roll axis and good AS numbers if you also extend the lower links forward and mount them to the inside of the rails, but may not be ideal depending on what you wanted to use for link material...
 
4-link fits OK with that crossmember remaining with a downward bend in the upper links and the chassis end mounted on the inside face of the chassis rails.
I've done it and it works well with a nice, flat roll axis and good AS numbers if you also extend the lower links forward and mount them to the inside of the rails, but may not be ideal depending on what you wanted to use for link material...
I have considered bent upper links but I'm tryin not to look too far forward and just concentrating on the jobs in front of me to get the licence right now. I've done the superior longer lowers already and converting them to an inboard set up would be straight forward if I go that way. Will have to hit you up for more info/help if I end up going that way.
 
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