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Is this insane?

WaterH

WaterH

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
602
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3,135
Loc
North Florida
So do you know what this is? It's a collet to put a 1" end mill into a Bridgeport. To put it another way, it is a device to temp you into putting a 1" end mill into a Bridgeport. Do not succumb to temptation. It will immediately tear out of your mill and try to cut you.

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Anyways I bought a 1" endmill without thinking about this stupid collet and had to try it. (Fail) so now I'm asking if this is just as stupid. If you haven't figured it out I'm trying to make a 1" endmill fit in a 3/4" collet.

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got to say I have seen worse

he as it clamped
the handle is on it and look the guard is there

run with it:laughing:
 
Weasel said:
How are you going to keep the grinder cutting at 3/4" as it wears down? And yes.
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He's working with like a 1" length of part. Not exactly unreasonable for him to just run it, check how high the high spots are with a mic, advance the hand wheel by that much and repeat.
PAE said:
A tool post grinder, LOL
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You're laughing now but you won't be when you have to put a specific surface finish on a large round part.
 
I have a fixture like that that that I made that ties into the handle bolt holes of the grinder which IMO is far superior in terms of rigidity and repeatability.

If you can't get the inevitable taper out of the part I think you should look into more rigid mounting options. Don't get greedy with the feed, you'll break wheels.
 
You could go with an R8 - ER40 collet chuck with a 1" collet.

I mean, it's going to chatter all to fuck no matte how you hold it so might as well do it the fast and expensive way.


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Weasel said:
How are you going to keep the grinder cutting at 3/4" as it wears down? And yes.
Click to expand...
Well, the idea is there.

The execution, not so much.

They do make a 7/8” collet, and I have to turn down 1” end mills to fit if I need that due to our fucked up system here.

But that is done on a tool & cutter grinder.
 
Weasel said:
How are you going to keep the grinder cutting at 3/4" as it wears down? And yes.
Click to expand...
Well, I was thinking the last few cuts, I would only take a few thou. My next question is how much should I take in a cut?
 
Or just get an end mill holder like god intended for sizes over 3/4"

www.ebay.com

1" END MILL HOLDER R8 TOOL ADAPTOR MILLING BRIDGEPORT ^[ | eBay

SHARS 1" Precision R8 End Mill Holder NEW. Ground shank and hole, heat treated for double accuracy. You may ask for freight cost before buying tools. If you need to speak to a sales person feel free to call.
www.ebay.com

:flipoff2:
 
Bigger question is why do you think you need a 1" EM in your Bridgeport?
 
get a reduced shank e/m, or a set screw e/m holder(pull down on e/m when tightening set screw).
 
TimJus said:
carbide insert would cut hss end mill shank
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this
just use carbide
my lathe isn't rigid enough to do it with a reasonable surface speed, but it makes a very nice surface finish when it is going fast enough that the chip comes off bright red and sparking

oh and don't expect your BP spindle to tolerate using much of any DOC with a 1" end mill
there just isn't enough steel through the bearings to support that kind of load, and the whole turret head mess flexes quite a bit too
 
[486] said:
oh and don't expect your BP spindle to tolerate using much of any DOC with a 1" end mill
there just isn't enough steel through the bearings to support that kind of load, and the whole turret head mess flexes quite a bit too
Click to expand...
Which goes back to my original question, Waterhead, wtf are you trying to accomplish? :flipoff2:
 
Knowing him he's doing a rough pocket in AL and just needs the reach of the 1" or is removing a fuckton of material and doesn't want to put the wear on his nicer mills.
 
[486] said:
this
just use carbide
my lathe isn't rigid enough to do it with a reasonable surface speed, but it makes a very nice surface finish when it is going fast enough that the chip comes off bright red and sparking

oh and don't expect your BP spindle to tolerate using much of any DOC with a 1" end mill
there just isn't enough steel through the bearings to support that kind of load, and the whole turret head mess flexes quite a bit too
Click to expand...

I believe this endmill is colbalt. I tried a carbide cutter and it wouldn't do anything.

posford said:
Which goes back to my original question, Waterhead, wtf are you trying to accomplish? :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I have a hunk of steel 3" thick that I cut a slot out of with a roughing mill. The finish is shit. I just need to take 5 thou off each side and smooth it out.
 
WaterH said:
I believe this endmill is colbalt. I tried a carbide cutter and it wouldn't do anything.
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co is less than 5% of the HSS
use more feed pressure and more surface speed
you do need a massive amount of tool pressure to get it to bite in something as hard as HSS
 
[486] said:
co is less than 5% of the HSS
use more feed pressure and more surface speed
you do need a massive amount of tool pressure to get it to bite in something as hard as HSS
Click to expand...
Hmmm, I don't know if I want to. Feed it that hard. My imagination starts thinking I'm going to die a death of a thousand shards of metal.
 
WaterH said:
Hmmm, I don't know if I want to. Feed it that hard. My imagination starts thinking I'm going to die a death of a thousand shards of metal.
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Just livestream it.

Well all be fine I promise.:lmao:
 
And endmill holder or an ER conversion would be faster, more accurate, easier and likely not much more expensive

But this is irate, keep doing things the most difficult way possible
 
WaterH said:
I have a hunk of steel 3" thick that I cut a slot out of with a roughing mill. The finish is shit. I just need to take 5 thou off each side and smooth it out.
Click to expand...
What part of that requires janky tool setups? you trying to get the finish at the tip nice as well?

1/2" FEM 5x LOC relieve the neck with your ghetto grinder so it doesn't rub, or do a top pass and step your bottom pass over slightly so it doesn't rub on the outside pass.

When flank cutting cut SFM in 1/2
 
WaterH said:
I have a hunk of steel 3" thick that I cut a slot out of with a roughing mill. The finish is shit. I just need to take 5 thou off each side and smooth it out.
Click to expand...
Is this the round part with the flange on one end?

If so (either or) is it a fitment issue or are you going for looks?
 
How has nobody pointed out that if his 1" endmill pulled out of the 1" collet, it's sure as shit going to pull out if a 3/4" collet, especially after this ghetto ass grinding job
 
Trevlaw said:
How has nobody pointed out that if his 1" endmill pulled out of the 1" collet, it's sure as shit going to pull out if a 3/4" collet, especially after this ghetto ass grinding job
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Not as likely. Those oversized collets stick out of the spindle and don't really grip that well. A true, properly sized collet doesn't protrude out of the spindle nearly as much.
 
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