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Is there a stronger Toyota C/V or Double cardan?

94toytruck

94toytruck

Eastcoast crawler
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
472
Messages
977
Loc
Eastern Pa
Using the typical 85-94 front C/V or double cardan in the rear shaft of my buggy. I wouldn't say I break a lot of them but I have broken them and last trip roasted another one and they are getting harder to find here. Is there a stronger stock Toyota C/V I can use, Tacoma stuff or maybe late model?
 
Never broke one, but watching this, I kill a single one every once in a while, and figure it's better than a R&P.
What's the rest of the driveline? Or have i missed it?
 
i thought they were different from 86+?
 
Good luck finding Tacoma stuff used, especially 1st gens. The 1st gen Tacoma used a weird ujoint in the double CV that no one has the part number to replace it, so you hope that the PO actually greased it.The 2nd gen tacomas used spicer u joints and at that point you may as well upgrade to 1350 stuff.
 
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Tydes said:
They are, 86+ do not handle the same amount of angle. If you contact Driveline tech they can machine the 86+ to high angle. I am currently running this in my runner.
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I wonder if the OP is using the wrong years? You can grind them too, IIRC.
 
Stingray said:
Never broke one, but watching this, I kill a single one every once in a while, and figure it's better than a R&P.
What's the rest of the driveline? Or have i missed it?
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I'll stretch a single joint flange over time but I usually don't break those.

Driveline is a 3rz, w56, ultimate duals with d60ft and 14b rear.
 
Slander said:
Good luck finding Tacoma stuff used, especially 1st gens. The 1st gen Tacoma used a weird ujoint in the double CV that no one has the part number to replace it, so you hope that the PO actually greased it.The 2nd gen tacomas used spicer u joints and at that point you may as well upgrade to 1350 stuff.
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Right, should've expected that. Lots of those trucks made their way to the crushers here.

I had a single 1350 at the axle years ago. That would let go before anything else.
 
Slander said:
Good luck finding Tacoma stuff used, especially 1st gens. The 1st gen Tacoma used a weird ujoint in the double CV that no one has the part number to replace it, so you hope that the PO actually greased it.The 2nd gen tacomas used spicer u joints and at that point you may as well upgrade to 1350 stuff.
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Powertrain makes a ujoint for the 1st gen tacoma CV's. #1351-25
 
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So is this a crawler or street driven rig? I've had better luck with 1st gen tacoma front drivelines being built for front and rear. They take more angle then the cv and it's just a u joint for a quick repair, if you ever had a issue. If you street drive it than the 85 cv is the strongest I know of but they are becoming hens teeth. I'm currently running a 1310 rear cv that works with Toyota flanges. It's held up but that rig runs 35"dot tires.
 
Sluggy said:
So is this a crawler or street driven rig? I've had better luck with 1st gen tacoma front drivelines being built for front and rear. They take more angle then the cv and it's just a u joint for a quick repair, if you ever had a issue. If you street drive it than the 85 cv is the strongest I know of but they are becoming hens teeth. I'm currently running a 1310 rear cv that works with Toyota flanges. It's held up but that rig runs 35"dot tires.
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Buggy on 40's, not street legal but sees near highway speeds on dirt and sometimes back roads depending where I'm at. I used to walk through the U-pull it with no tools and just pick these things up off the ground. Now finding older Toyotas in the yards is near impossible.

I know I could swap to a single joint, the CV runs nice and smooth though compared to a single joint. Maybe I'll whip up a single joint shaft and run it to see how it is and if I don't like it I have a spare anyway.

Kinda weighing my options at this point. If I make it too strong the T-case output becomes the weak link.
 
Sluggy said:
Second Tcase input I feel is weaker than the output
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Not in my experience, broke 2 outputs in my samurai with shitty TG 21sp 4.7s. Plus many others in our friend group had the same experience.

Maybe different with a stock 2.28 input?

Just keep polishing the turd and add 30 spline outputs :flipoff2:
 
I haven't messed with it, I have 1 here just incase but that's it. My rear shaft is literally the length of a stock front shaft mini truck.

I really want to build a few new front and rear shafts at this point. Most of the stuff has been drug through the rocks several years now and it likely fatigued.
 
is your front crazy short thats why double C joint.

i am using 1410 joints and will say my limit straps are keeping me at my max yoke interference. not joint angle. i fucked up on buying weld in yokes not realizing some have more clearance than others.
 
My front is a 2 peice with a carrier bearing. Mid-ship is about 2feet, front is 32" IIRC.

My rear is short, actually you can see it here at full droop straps tight.
20240124_195221.jpg
 
The rear is the one that broke the CV but it wasn't drooped out. It sits pretty close to flat at ride height. Actually with the straps off it's still not enough to.make it bind.
 
94toytruck said:
The rear is the one that broke the CV but it wasn't drooped out. It sits pretty close to flat at ride height. Actually with the straps off it's still not enough to.make it bind.
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i assume you dont jump your truck can you short strap the center so it dont max out that joint. i am sure you have thought of this. at a loss too.
 
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