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Interpret tire wear?

fl0w3n

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I’m a newb at understanding tire wear and correcting the issue. Would prefer to not just ignorantly blow through these.

tires have 12k miles on them, rotated at 10k. Running same psi front and rear - 37ish

Judging by the fronts, I’m guessing this is an alignment and maybe balancing issue? Rears look like they’re doing well.

what should I do to correct this wear?


This was the front (now on the rear)
DA5F3C57-3547-4F62-9888-32D86C222002.jpeg


Other front (now rear)
BD8963B1-9E84-4954-A9CE-B17263B8A052.jpeg



For comparison here’s same wear from what was the rear for 10k miles
9D680EFE-4308-4CC3-9E38-9AC52532C5AF.jpeg


Other side of what was the rear
76B721BC-3813-4771-A8FC-511A9716143D.jpeg
 
They appear in the pictures to be wearing evenly on the outer edges. You might not have enough air pressure in them. More pressure evens out the load, less pressure causes the weight to be on the outer edges or above the sidewalls.

What brand and load range are the tires on how heavy of a truck?

You also should rotate them every few thousand miles. Aggressive tread tires need rotating way more than every 10,000 miles.
 
Tire chalking can help you determine if you're running the correct pressure for your ties:


And as BDK stated, you should be rotating your tires more often.
 
What year/make/model are these on? What size and load rating?

First problem as others have stated it 10k is way too long between rotations for that aggressive of tread. Especially if you live in the mountains of California with lots of elevation change and corners.
 
Tires are Falken Wildpeak RT in 37x12.5r17 with an E load rating and 128R

Truck is a ‘21 250 that scales at 7,900-8,000 lbs with me in it, approximately 4680 front 3220 rear

Tires are inflated to 35 PSI cold, and heat up to around 40 PSI usually which should give me around a 11-12,000 lb capacity for the random times I do hookup a trailer.

I spend most of my time driving California roads though without a trailer, and yes frequently winding roads.

I’ve been meaning to do the chalk test, I guess this is the sign to get off my ass.

I drive on average 2,500 miles a month, so should I just be rotating monthly then?
 
I’m at Discount Tire. I waited a little too long to replace one of my tires. Glad I was only doing 70 when it let go.
But did you die in a fiery crash like all the old men and reddit dumbasses said you would? :flipoff2:
 
Shouldn’t the tires be closer to 60 PSI? Are 38s somehow different than stock?
 
Shouldn’t the tires be closer to 60 PSI? Are 38s somehow different than stock?
Yes the load capacity is different.

Peruse these charts to see how different tires at different PSI equal different load capacity

At 60 PSI these tires would support 3,195 LBS each, which is way over what I run around at and exceeds my GVWR anyways.
 
Tires are Falken Wildpeak RT in 37x12.5r17 with an E load rating and 128R

Truck is a ‘21 250 that scales at 7,900-8,000 lbs with me in it, approximately 4680 front 3220 rear

Tires are inflated to 35 PSI cold, and heat up to around 40 PSI usually which should give me around a 11-12,000 lb capacity for the random times I do hookup a trailer.

I spend most of my time driving California roads though without a trailer, and yes frequently winding roads.

I’ve been meaning to do the chalk test, I guess this is the sign to get off my ass.

I drive on average 2,500 miles a month, so should I just be rotating monthly then?
under inflated
 
Way under inflated. You should be in the 48-55 psi range with E rated tires on that truck.

On my '11 F150 I run my E rated 35" KO2s at roughly 45. (mine weighs 6800-7k lbs with me in it. Carpeted contractor top on it. supercrew 6.5' bed.

And alignment looks like shit up front chopping up the tires.
 
Yes the load capacity is different.

Peruse these charts to see how different tires at different PSI equal different load capacity

At 60 PSI these tires would support 3,195 LBS each, which is way over what I run around at and exceeds my GVWR anyways.
1717090355752.png


That chart is fucky. Why no (E) rated tire, if that's what you've got for LR?
Also the (D) rated tire has more capacity than the (F) rated tire????
And alignment looks like shit up front chopping up the tires.
I've seen blown front shocks cause similar wear...
 
No time to mess with inflation for this test so this is just at 39 PSI all around

6102B17C-2E40-4401-A475-FE8DE15A4064.jpeg

CDBA72BF-9744-4C85-A70D-F4B4CD2FA432.jpeg

E71B23B5-FCA2-4A25-86F0-6283B1CDDF58.jpeg

9C2D4569-A160-4537-B820-006D272B5565.jpeg

C197F52A-585E-42F5-8309-036B97DE1513.jpeg

50699A0F-27D0-4502-A1CD-B7A2FB128AEC.jpeg
 
That’s what it looks like, the labeled imprints are the first revolution of each tire.

By the 4th or 5th it looks like it got better but I didn’t have time to measure which that was, front or rear, and I feel like the first pass is a better impression to judge off anyway?

I’ll do it one more time to double check I have good chalk coverage.

Does over inflation and too long before rotating match the wear I am seeing, or should I still be chasing alignment and balancing potentially?

640839DD-6F4B-45CF-B9BD-8CD6F4C1CECA.jpeg
 
Chalk test doesn't work all that well for this situation. Sure, it's great in a straight line, but OP is driving "winding roads" where the pressure is put on the outside lugs....

IIRC, the factory f250 TPMS sets alarms off at 45psi...

I still claim well under inflated.
 
Chalk test doesn't work all that well for this situation. Sure, it's great in a straight line, but OP is driving "winding roads" where the pressure is put on the outside lugs....

IIRC, the factory f250 TPMS sets alarms off at 45psi...

I still claim well under inflated.
I disagree. If you're riding on the crown of your tire all of the time, you're not going to have a good contact patch in the curves either. The only thing you'll wind up doing is wearing the tire out before it's time.
 
Does over inflation and too long before rotating match the wear I am seeing, or should I still be chasing alignment and balancing potentially?
I would say if it's been a while since you've had an alignment, it wouldn't hurt to have it checked. As for tire balance, unless you're feeling some type of shimmy I wouldn't worry about it.
 
I disagree. If you're riding on the crown of your tire all of the time, you're not going to have a good contact patch in the curves either. The only thing you'll wind up doing is wearing the tire out before it's time.
depends on amount of over inflation. Still have to deal with side-loads and tire role regardless...

Stock F250 comes around 60-65 psi. Not saying it's perfect, but shoot... His wear is on the outside lugs... classic under inflation.

I run my tacoma at 35psi on 38's and still have a flat contact patch.
 
depends on amount of over inflation. Still have to deal with side-loads and tire role regardless...

Stock F250 comes around 60-65 psi. Not saying it's perfect, but shoot... His wear is on the outside lugs... classic under inflation.

I run my tacoma at 35psi on 38's and still have a flat contact patch.
From what I see in the original pictures, it only looks like it's on the outside tread, not the inside. If it was on both equally, I would agree you completely.

In addition, the current tires are not factory tires, so the inflation table is going to change. The chalking shown is showing way over inflated as none of the outer lugs are showing, it's all center.
 
From what I see in the original pictures, it only looks like it's on the outside tread, not the inside. If it was on both equally, I would agree you completely.

In addition, the current tires are not factory tires, so the inflation table is going to change. The chalking shown is showing way over inflated as none of the outer lugs are showing, it's all center.
outside lugs always take more force in a corner than inside...

But, logically, you're not incorrect.

I still say under inflated. :flipoff2:
 
Are the tires mounted on stock wheels? How wide are the wheels? A narrow wheel will crown the center of the tire up regardless of inflation , to a point.
 
Back in the day as a tire monkey if I were installing those tires on that truck I'd run 55ish psi unloaded.

You're number 1 issue with that wear is your rotation schedule especially for where you live you have a lot of corners and a lot of weight on your steer axle which is going to cause a lot of choppy tire wear.

Start rotating between 3-5k miles and it will be fine in a few months. Also cross rotate the fronts to the back so what was the leading edge of the tread will be worn down flat when in the rear.
 
How wide are the wheels?
8.5 wide
Start rotating between 3-5k miles and it will be fine in a few months. Also cross rotate the fronts to the back so what was the leading edge of the tread will be worn down flat when in the rear.
I do cross fronts to back and roll backs straight to the front.


I’ll make some time to play with chalk and inflation again to check some patterns, but sounds like the main thing is definitely my rotation schedule was severely lacking.

Looks like I’ll need to get into a routine every 4-6 weeks :homer:
 
depends on amount of over inflation. Still have to deal with side-loads and tire role regardless...

Stock F250 comes around 60-65 psi. Not saying it's perfect, but shoot... His wear is on the outside lugs... classic under inflation.

I run my tacoma at 35psi on 38's and still have a flat contact patch.
how wide are your tacoma's tires and wheels?

I ran like 7 or 8 psi in my 36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS on my XJ on the street. Shoulders werent touching the ground. Although wheels were some cheapie steel 15x8. Interco says to run 10" wide wheels on this tire, however.
 
how wide are your tacoma's tires and wheels?

I ran like 7 or 8 psi in my 36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS on my XJ on the street. Shoulders werent touching the ground. Although wheels were some cheapie steel 15x8. Interco says to run 10" wide wheels on this tire, however.
13.50" on 9" wide wheels

Yeah - if you run a tire on too narrow a wheel, you'll never get it to run flat.
 
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