What's new

Interesting Tools You've bought thread

bgaidan

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Member Number
2322
Messages
3,199
Loc
NC Triad
How about a thread about CL and FB scores and deals you've actually picked up on old iron?


Saw this arbor press on FB last weekend for $150. I have a little baby one and the typical HF hydro but many times could have used a bigger arbor press. No problem getting my money back if I end up flipping it. No markings on it. Presumably an import. From the size, I'd say it's somewhere in the 3 to 5 ton range. Needs a straightening job on the handle...or a new one, and a paint job, but its serviceable as-is.

wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
Click image for larger version Name:	20201122_145940.jpg Views:	0 Size:	182.3 KB ID:	211473





Then last night I see this grinder pop up. Seller didn't know anything about it and the data plate was missing off the motor, but I could tell it was a Baldor. From the pics I assumed it was a typical 7 or 8" model. I was hoping for single phase, but 3 phase wouldn't scare me away. I went and picked it up around dark thirty in a methy part of town. No plug on it so I couldn't test it, but the bearings felt good and baldors don't generally let the smoke out. I didn't get a chance to look it over very well, but for the price, I took the chance.

Got it home and started poking around. It is 3-phase and I was able to read the numbers on the wires and compare it to the baldor diagrams I found online and confirm it was low voltage - 230v. Even better, once I took the side covers off, I realized it was actually a 10" model and from what I can tell that means it's 1.5 HP!

I had a spare cheap chinese 3hp 110v VFD laying around that I bought to try out on one of my mills and/or the lathe I've been restoring. It didn't seem to work well for those, but worked perfectly on this one. Came right to life. Super smooth and quiet. The stone it appears to be a 1/4" one meant for a surface grinder, but I pushed a piece of 1/4" scrap in to it and couldn't come close to stalling it.

I need to order or make a couple pieces for it - missing one of the rests and I should probably get the eye guards back on it.


Paid $100 for it. I'll probably drop another $60 in parts to clean it up. The cheap VFD was like $125, but I already that. Not bad for a beast of a grinder that costs about $1k new.

Click image for larger version Name:	20201125_215415.jpg Views:	0 Size:	163.9 KB ID:	211474
Click image for larger version Name:	20201126_115445.jpg Views:	0 Size:	336.8 KB ID:	211476

wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==



It'll go well next to my other spinny machines. I picked up the Baldor buffer for basically free from a woman that was cleaning out her late husband's shop. The place was pretty well picked over and she said several people looked at it and plugged it in and it didn't work. I bought a bunch of other stuff and she said I could just take it with me. Took it home and opened it up and found one of the switch terminals broken off. $5 toggle switch later and it works like new. I still to order some real consumables for it - probably a deburring wheel and some scotchbrite discs.

I paid real money for the carbide grinder on ebay, but that was because I really needed one and they don't pop up locally very often. I'd love to find a Baldor, but those seem to fetch a hefty premium when they do appear.

wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
Click image for larger version Name:	20201126_114150.jpg Views:	0 Size:	340.2 KB ID:	211477
 
Last edited:
The pic in my shop came out total potato. The other pic is the one I bought the lathe from.

South Bend Heavy 10. I think it'll take about 22 inches between centers. Just picked it up this past weekend, funny how it's always feast or famine. I go 38 years of my life without a lathe and over a month and I have two.

It's got terrible wear on the ways. I think I could measure the ridge with a rule. Funny there's no compound slide. It runs on 110 VAC. The drive belt seems way too tight, so tight that it slows down the motor. I'll be learning how to cut and glue a belt since it needs to be threaded through the casting.

Click image for larger version Name:	PB230191.jpg Views:	0 Size:	83.0 KB ID:	211887
.
Click image for larger version Name:	125941608_3895489283795222_1220534985148534045_n.jpg Views:	0 Size:	222.6 KB ID:	211888
Edit: This is what the ways look like. I think someone used that "JB weld for ways" stuff on it at one point.

Click image for larger version Name:	PB230193.jpg Views:	0 Size:	62.0 KB ID:	211891
 
Last edited:
That's a good size machine to have. I'm just about done restoring my 12.5 x 60 Cincinnati and it has very noticeable wear in the first ~8" of the ways near the head stock. Pretty typical for well-used machines. 90% of what most of us do is within a few inches of the chuck. When you know the wear is there, you can learn to work with/around it for the most part.

IMG_20190915_165841349.jpg
 
The drive belt seems way too tight, so tight that it slows down the motor. I'll be learning how to cut and glue a belt since it needs to be threaded through the casting.

The tension is adjustable, there is a turn buckle between the handle and the motor for setting the tension. Also, does it still have babbit bearings or was it converted to rollers?
 
The tension is adjustable, there is a turn buckle between the handle and the motor for setting the tension. Also, does it still have babbit bearings or was it converted to rollers?

That was the first thing I tried. The adjustment is already as loose as possible.

I'm not sure about the bearings. I can check today.

Can you answer some questions for me and save me finding them on the net?
What's the funny cover I can lift up immediately behind the chuck (not the one for belt adjustment). It's a cover less than an inch wide, but wraps around the chuck bearing. I watched a youtube vid and I thought the guy lifted that cover to engage/disengage a pin, possibly for different speeds, or reverse?

Does the lever behind the headstock and to the left function only to lock the spindle?

I really should start a thread on this thing for my questions instead of mucking up this one...


Edit: Nevermind. I just checked the machine, and, yup lift cover pull pin and engage that rear lever and I get lower speeds. I haven't found a reverse gear yet, but since the chuck is threaded on.......probably doesn't have reverse.

Bearings look original, so I'm guessing they're babbit.
 
Last edited:
Reverse is done with an electrical switch. Yes, they have reverse, you blip it to slow down the spindle. When your using it as a chucker, this is a real time saver. Would not recommend with a chuck LOL.

You can buy leather belt stuff of McMaster.
 
I've got a heavy 10. You can run in reverse from the motor, but with the threaded spindle your cuts are limited before it will unscrew. For the belt you can use a long automotive rib belt and either skiv and glue or lace in the grooves. It should be babbit bearing, converting is not easy and the babbit work fine. Check the adjustment, just needs a DTI and a couple ft long bar. Too tight on the bearing adjusters will prevent oil and cook the bearings.

If you decide the ways are junk and want to part it I'm looking for a double tumbler gearbox and large dial :rolleyes:
 
That was the first thing I tried. The adjustment is already as loose as possible.

I'm not sure about the bearings. I can check today.

Can you answer some questions for me and save me finding them on the net?
What's the funny cover I can lift up immediately behind the chuck (not the one for belt adjustment). It's a cover less than an inch wide, but wraps around the chuck bearing. I watched a youtube vid and I thought the guy lifted that cover to engage/disengage a pin, possibly for different speeds, or reverse?

Does the lever behind the headstock and to the left function only to lock the spindle?

I really should start a thread on this thing for my questions instead of mucking up this one...


Edit: Nevermind. I just checked the machine, and, yup lift cover pull pin and engage that rear lever and I get lower speeds. I haven't found a reverse gear yet, but since the chuck is threaded on.......probably doesn't have reverse.

Bearings look original, so I'm guessing they're babbit.

The pin would be to release/engage the back gears. Slower speads & more torque. I've never had my hands on a Heavy 10 so I don't know where things are, but there should also be a lever that moves the back gear in to place once you pull the pin.


If you're is still babbit - does it have bolted bearing caps? You should just be able to remove the spindle completely to change the belt. The little Atlas/Craftsman ones I have are all roller bearing, but the proper way to change the belt is to remove the spindle and slide a new belt over it when reinstalling. A lot of people just use a linked belt though.
 
1951 Doall ML I just finished. Did not want to paint it but it was a little ratty.

photo34244.jpg
 
Last edited:
1951 Doall ML I just finished. Did not want to paint it but it was all little ratty.

Badass. There was a 26" for sale locally for like $1200 and I really wanted to go grab it but I have no place to put it until I close on my new house/shop....which has dragged on for months. On my list once I have more room though.
 
1951 Doall ML I just finished. Did not want to paint it but it was a little ratty.

Badass saw and it's got the built in blade welder. I would kill for one but have no where to put it.
 
Crikey! That thing is a HOSS!

Fucker just one upped my 10" Baldor. :flipoff2:


Are we going to have to have "who can get the biggest pedestal grinder" contest? One of us is going to end up with one of these 36" 30hp monstrosities 🤣
118167d1412130474-big-beautiful-15-hp-grinder-gardner-machine-co-erltqkf.jpg
 
Fucker just one upped my 10" Baldor. :flipoff2:


Are we going to have to have "who can get the biggest pedestal grinder" contest? One of us is going to end up with one of these 36" 30hp monstrosities 🤣

Damn one uppers! Beats my Cincinnati for sure. But I do have 4 separate grinders in action :grinpimp:
 
Arbor press. Came with the grinder. The anvil and handle was missing.

photo34745.jpg
 
1954ish LeBlond Dual Drive lathe i found on c-list about 30 minutes from my house. Had to have it, and sold my smaller Rockwell lathe to get it. Bridgeport is a 1953ish and I got it at a machine shop auction a few hours from me.

ACtC-3d-dPmPhdcvyjhXBR1aedsMgiqSSnDcARWUpCdbsTx9G5rZVccddcl_LjLXs8RO6ryaDUz-4utmxMG7VGzY4wWaad-7B9T-OAxOlewIv0D_A1nPrp9R1FXc9R3tGY83b5lunQTfSEHNrs4H3EKaAuhLAw=w2063-h1548-no


Engelberg 10x72 belt grinder has as much horsepower as the lathe, lol. Love this tool. Found it on craigslist 10 minutes from my house. Another "i've got to have that" type purchase.

YZ0lTzQt4MckAGUqy0FuD0LjSRkfknA6ckaAZTU9Xx08Dzrzx7slhBHYCmggDDFyidxacKWCurxjAjzL4rEkq4q8xVmrUHaX38vvftrxMXDU1Sa8L4ZYXm-ROs9-JBEQfyZ-SHVtNeFa5El80h7yj5LV9N6lswF03bxBWkSypOyQLQL8eNT86DvPJnMatzQm6hDa3sJzTjUYC3PaJxGAJIzFWDCgn9U94WTzuN88IK5uuYe7_-kS6m-2lAFRr0Y5HMLS18_mQ9gz1DzoGtwFUgeBU45Reqw80zcEkPzB4nsArAN5iubDFSPbBf-ZkQMAuNhcgIUPjXm_tAK6rIcdh0bB7ty1DIRiEMPQzs_ymm-lhq2QNGgwngf7N2Tw52VgFvS7eCj0tYa_s-xMjyTVmSPE_11YoR2YWTLxI66EW3umcjZUeu9MlQniXWX_mPzmj-28u0QgtNzX-AoJ_9d9WHCJAx4hbE4xuk3sXahVn7XiKMe8iuG1Tm2Sj4ef3Ut8g_oB84HFpeWkbpHZSTsPWo0nL72v9xuL2EgBBJvQz4Pd83oJN1gRvLe4oqiNo-H4N59eD1f39RbmCgZ0CosGNuQm5l0p6KW6XoF7QHm0uPnnMvoYmen9XGh0g7-r3YWXEQzPvvT0N0ptd_XlSI0Iyx2MPngrUXS67aJNEamoFuQrGx4WqPISOo7H-34IeQ=w1518-h2023-no
 
Picked up this harig super 612 today. Came out of a tech school. Needs a good cleaning but looks to be in good shape mechanic wise

PXL_20201203_000301411.NIGHT.jpg
 
1954ish LeBlond Dual Drive lathe i found on c-list about 30 minutes from my house. Had to have it, and sold my smaller Rockwell lathe to get it. Bridgeport is a 1953ish and I got it at a machine shop auction a few hours from me.
}[/IMG2]

What`s dual drive mean?
 
Picked up this harig super 612 today. Came out of a tech school. Needs a good cleaning but looks to be in good shape mechanic wise


I've been on the lookout for one of those tiny surface grinders for a long time. They pretty much never seem to come up for sale because somebody's brother's cousin always takes them.
 
I really want a small-ish surface grinder too. Around here they either seem to be completely clapped out or $5k. Never see any kind of deal on them.

Does a smaller on like that have auto cross feed on the table or is it all manual?


I picked up this little tool and cutter grinder last year along with a bunch of other stuff from an estate sale. I think I paid less than $200 for it with all the extras. The 2 spindexers and a couple drill press vices were worth what I paid. There were no labels on it, but I think we figured out it's an old KO Lee. Planning on stripping it down and repainting it and probably doing a little work on the screws to see if I can take some of the slop out. I found little mag chucks pretty cheap that I can stick on it and use it for light surface grinding too.

Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_20191019_161410503.jpg Views:	0 Size:	277.3 KB ID:	219521

Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_20191019_161410503.jpg Views:	0 Size:	277.3 KB ID:	219521

IMG_20191026_120859691_HDR.jpg
 
Picked up this Logan lathe a month ago when I was in Colorado. $2200, came with a manual and three bins of tooling and carbide and a chest from the Army Air Force 1943 (assuming it was built around then). Everything works perfect and is tight and no rust or pitting on anything. I'm fucking stoked!

AOHDZjSh.jpg
 
Gear drive head in the lower spindle speed ranges for torque, belt drive in the higher spindle ranges for low-friction. Pretty elegant setup, works very well.

Fancy way of saying "it has back gears"
 
Is that a lob oven in the background ? It looks like the Blue-M ovens I used to work on.

Yeah, its a blue M. Picked it up at auction a few years ago for $50. Use it all the time for drying brass and firearms coating. Sometime powdercoat but I havent done much in a while due to the mess it makes.


The harig was $200. Doesnt have a mag chuck and seems to be a basic model - rack and pinor drive instead of cable, no fine adjust. I'll have about triple what I paid in it by the time I get a VFD, mag chuck and new wheels, but still not bad. There is a cabinet off the right for it. Going to pressure wash and paint it first, then reassemble the grinder on top.

There was a clarkson tool grinder closer that was tempting but they want $2k for it, yet can't be bothered to even take pictures of what mounts/accessories it comes with. I was going to lowball it when this one popped up.

Anyone who knows grinding - What are some basic good to have wheels so I can start shopping. Mostly doing stuff like mild steel, 4140 and will be grinding a few tool steels
 
Top Back Refresh