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Ideas for re-clocking this t-case adapter

AdrianD

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2021
Member Number
3967
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114
After the NP231 swap in my WJ I have some extra room above the transfer case, so I can clock it up.

The existing clocking rings clock it too much and I don't want to start making room for it.

This is the adapter:
1i2nxCb.jpg


Any idea on how to re-drill this at home?

A jig using the existing holes would work up to the last hole.
 
That adapter doesn't look re-drillable to me. There isn't any meat on it other than around the existing holes...

Re-drill and tap t-case holes in the appropriate location?
 
Argh, I forgot to mention, I was thinking about drilling with a hole-saw and welding pieces of aluminum rod in place to have meat for new holes. Or even have the rod pieces pre-drilled.
So I think the questions boils down to: how to index the holes when drilling with a hole-saw.

Another idea I had was to weld aluminum rod in the existing holes, then the hole-saw pilot would not wander
 
I used a GO2GUY clocking ring for a d300 in my zj about 15 years ago. It was only 3/8th plate steel. Something like that would probably work and be easier that all the tig welding and machining unless you have easy access to all that.


Unless you are only clocking a small amount I don't think just filling the holes would be enough.
 
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I would not attempt to modify that adaptor. The steel plate clocking rings work well.

Is there any reason you want/need to clock it up other than there is space above it?
 
The WJ has a really low hanging crossmember and transfer case. I built another crossmember swapped in an NP231 and gained almost 2 inches of ground clearance. I want to clock up the transfer case, as it hangs as low as the crossmember and the transmission can't go up higher.


The clocking ring would clock it up too much and it would hit the floor.
 
I would think finding a piece of 3/8 plate and cutting it out would be about as easy as trying to fill those holes up. Just need some counter sunk bolts and a tap to install it.
 
www.ebay.com

Transfer Case Clocking Ring for NP231 | eBay

Fits NP231. Pass drop, (up or down) and Drivers drop (up or down). Rock crawlers typically rotate their case up for better belly clearance while mud boggers and lifted trucks prefer to rotate their cases down for better front pinion angle and a lower center of gravity.
www.ebay.com

Seems like a much easier and less problematic approach is to just get a thin clocking ring.
 
That's obviously the easiest way but it's not the thickness of the ring, it's the amount it clocks up. It will lift the far end of the transfer case 2 inches and that's too much for what space I have.

A ring and some BFH love to make more room is the last resort :dustin:
 
I would think making your own ring would be easier than trying to weld up those holes and re drill. If your drilling your own holes, Just have to clock it up enough to clear the bolts that hold the clocking ring on. The rest of the stuff could be cut out with a grinder and a cutoff wheel.
 
Fuck it. Get the spool gun. Shoot a bunch of aluminum in there and re-drill.

Since the holes do nothing to locate the case it should be really easy.
 
The front seal housing engages in the adapter, right?

d8mBx7i.jpg
 
Call anyone who makes the clocking rings (JB, AA, WFO, Novak, NWF, GLO, ORD etc) and have them cut you one with 7.5 degrees less.
 
That adapter is cast porous aluminum, and will weep oil out of it's pores even after you bake it, and drive you crazy trying to weld to it. BTDT
 
gozuki said:
That adapter is cast porous aluminum, and will weep oil out of it's pores even after you bake it, and drive you crazy trying to weld to it. BTDT
Click to expand...
All cast aluminum is like that. You gotta go quick. No making a massive puddle. That drives all the impurities to the surface making it suck.
 
gozuki said:
Call anyone who makes the clocking rings (JB, AA, WFO, Novak, NWF, GLO, ORD etc) and have them cut you one with 7.5 degrees less.
Click to expand...

Would be easier to design one and get my local machinist to cut it, I think the bolts would interfere with such a low clocking angle.

Anyway, digging through my scrap wood pile I found a round piece that fits perfectly, to use for centering the template when marking the new holes and I bought some 12mm round stock to weld in the holes once I make the bolt hole template :)

vJeAWZj.jpg
 
I don't want to half-ass it with the plasma cutter :P
 
www.northwestfab.com

Standard 6 Bolt Round Clocking Ring Kit

These Clocking Rings are machined out of 3/8" steel to allow maximum spline engagement, Strength and Durability. All clocking rings are engraved with wide set location for ease of installation. Our clocking rings are precision CNC machined for accurate bore alignment. These 6 hole Clocking Rings...
www.northwestfab.com www.northwestfab.com

Clocking Positions Available:

Up or Down - 11.5* = ~ 1.5"
Up or Down - 19* = ~ 3"
Up or Down - 26.5* = ~ 4.5"
Up or Down - 34* = ~ 6"


Transfer Case Clocking Ring

Check out the deal on Transfer Case Clocking Ring at Iron Rock Off Road
www.ironrockoffroad.com

Can be rotated 8° or 15°
 
Hmm, didn't seem like too much meat left to clock less than the first link but I guess 8 degrees is safe.


Thank you everyone, I'm gonna put a ring on it !
 
Hey, it's low on the prio list, I'll get to it eventually.
I spent the last 7 months changing diapers, rocking, singing etc so the most work I've done on the car was figuring out the transmission maps to tune it.

I did dig around in the scrap pile and found that a Miata rear rotor is right at 3/8" thick, with the inner diameter just perfect, so I'll just have to cut the outer diameter, drill and tap.
 
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You would be far better off with a piece of plate than a old rotor that has gone through hundreds of heat cycles. I bet it's brittle as can be. I'm a fan of using old stuff to make new stuff, but not when it will shatter under load.
 
BDK said:
You would be far better off with a piece of plate than a old rotor that has gone through hundreds of heat cycles. I bet it's brittle as can be. I'm a fan of using old stuff to make new stuff, but not when it will shatter under load.
Click to expand...
Still be better than whatever GM made transfer case adapters out of. :laughing:
 
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BDK said:
You would be far better off with a piece of plate than a old rotor that has gone through hundreds of heat cycles. I bet it's brittle as can be. I'm a fan of using old stuff to make new stuff, but not when it will shatter under load.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, I did not think about that :)
 
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