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Hydro Assist Set Up

BigWheel

BigWheel

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Member Number
3687
Messages
115
Loc
La La Land
Got the green light from upper management on a hydro assist kit.
I've never set up a system, but I get the jist of it. Buy kit, install kit, bleed system.
I'm looking for some purchsing advice and set up tips. What are you running? What works and what doesn't?
Vehicle is a 1998 Chevy 1500 with the stock 5.7 vortec, 87-91.5 HP Ford Dana 60 on leafs.
Currently looking at the PSC kit or the AGR kit. Was thinking about piecing together with a RedHead box and collecting components separately.
Not afraid to spend some coin, but I'd like to be able to put some fuel in the truck once the work is done.
Any ideas and tips are appreciated.
 
I measured the steering on my YJ, called up West Texas Offroad and got one of their 1.75 rams and two hoses. When it came in I built the mounts and tapped my steering box. It works well for what I do but is a little slow if trying to turn fast.
 
Common mistakes I’ve read about and seen. Before you start make sure currently lock to lock your reaching your steering stops and they’re touching. If not you’ll need longer pitman ram and move steering box forward possibly.

then measure for throw on your ram. It probably won’t be exactly 6 or 8 inches. Buy the next size up and McMaster carr has aluminum pucks to put inside the ram to limit travel. I’ve seen where guys don’t limit the travel and ram keeps pushing at full lock and takes out ball joints and tie rod ends breaks knuckles etc.

Have ram parallel at full lock to housing.
 
shaggyjim said:
I measured the steering on my YJ, called up West Texas Offroad and got one of their 1.75 rams and two hoses. When it came in I built the mounts and tapped my steering box. It works well for what I do but is a little slow if trying to turn fast.
Click to expand...
Thought about going this route but with a RedHead box. Did you install a new pump also?

Rangerrod said:
Common mistakes I’ve read about and seen. Before you start make sure currently lock to lock your reaching your steering stops and they’re touching. If not you’ll need longer pitman ram and move steering box forward possibly.

then measure for throw on your ram. It probably won’t be exactly 6 or 8 inches. Buy the next size up and McMaster carr has aluminum pucks to put inside the ram to limit travel. I’ve seen where guys don’t limit the travel and ram keeps pushing at full lock and takes out ball joints and tie rod ends breaks knuckles etc.

Have ram parallel at full lock to housing.
Click to expand...
Makes sense. Out of curiosity, why not get a ram with a throw just under full lock? Would the box push excessive fluid to the ram and damage the seals?
Thanks for the info y'all.
 
You dont necessarily need to limit the ram. Yes, it would be ideal to do so, but if you feel your steering hit the stops, stop turning the wheel. 1.75"x8" psc ram, stock gm hydroboost pump, and drilled and tapped box. As mentioned above, plenty of power but really slow. Its been on mine for 6 years now with stock ford knuckles and no failures. Using histeer arms and tierod mounted to it, with ram on the tierod, is what kills knuckles. ram to tierod, tierod mounted to stock knuckle location, and you should be good to go.

20201006_185144.jpg
 
j20brett said:
You dont necessarily need to limit the ram. Yes, it would be ideal to do so, but if you feel your steering hit the stops, stop turning the wheel. 1.75"x8" psc ram, stock gm hydroboost pump, and drilled and tapped box. As mentioned above, plenty of power but really slow. Its been on mine for 6 years now with stock ford knuckles and no failures. Using histeer arms and tierod mounted to it, with ram on the tierod, is what kills knuckles. ram to tierod, tierod mounted to stock knuckle location, and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...
I disagree, you need to limit the travel of the ram.
For Vendors, I like West Texas, Howe, PSC in that order too.
 
BigWheel said:
Has anyone found the need to run a fluid cooler?
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You should absolutely run a cooler. Most stock systems even have a cooler, usually just a tube up in front of the radiator. I have always ran the tube and fin style and never had any issues. something like this for reference: Amazon.com
 
BigWheel said:
Thought about going this route but with a RedHead box. Did you install a new pump also?


Makes sense. Out of curiosity, why not get a ram with a throw just under full lock? Would the box push excessive fluid to the ram and damage the seals?
Thanks for the info y'all.
Click to expand...
Im still running the stock YJ pump at the moment. Its running up to my hydroboost first and then down to my steering box, so far so good.
I asked when I ordered it if I should run a cooler and larger reservoir but they said I didn't need to and altho I still plan on adding them it hasn't been a problem yet.
 
Called West Texas, probably going to go with their set up. Talked with Justin and he said the stock pump should handle their kit, but he told me about modifying the stock pump to get more pressure if needed. Anyone had to do this with their system?
Forgot to ask him how running a cooler would work with their system
 
Stupid basic tip.


Dont do a final fit/route of your hoses, you will invariably hook it up backwards and one will be short.

Get it working and verified. Then trim your lines to final length.
 
BigWheel said:
Has anyone found the need to run a fluid cooler?
Click to expand...
I have PSC ram,pump, box on chevy d60 with crossover. Did not do cooler at first. Fluid turned black, pump howled,etc. Installed two coolers-I like over kill-seems to work well. I run 37 and 40" tires.
 
BigWheel said:
Called West Texas, probably going to go with their set up. Talked with Justin and he said the stock pump should handle their kit, but he told me about modifying the stock pump to get more pressure if needed. Anyone had to do this with their system?
Forgot to ask him how running a cooler would work with their system
Click to expand...
hook a cooler up to the line returning fluid back to the pump
 
BigWheel said:
Called West Texas, probably going to go with their set up. Talked with Justin and he said the stock pump should handle their kit, but he told me about modifying the stock pump to get more pressure if needed. Anyone had to do this with their system?
Forgot to ask him how running a cooler would work with their system
Click to expand...
I did mod my pump the way they say to on their web site but it was years ago when I went to hydro boost.
 
Would highly recommend a larger reservoir and a cooler, as mentioned above.
 
Thanks for the info and advice y'all. I'll get some stuff ordered in the next few weeks and post up if I run into issues
 
Sounds like you have a plan but I will add another vote for West Texas and adding the cooler with a larger reservoir after performance issues with AGR - CJ7/LT1 with 37s.
 
Adding a inline filter would probably be a good idea as well.
 
Do a dual shear clamp on the tie rod or weld tabs. Seen way to many single shear/bolt tabs shear on the trail. I carry a spare clamp I lend out if need be. And make sure you get the caps/union to cap the system if you ever damage the Ram or need to take it off and tie the hoses up out of the way. Cheap insurance.
 
Malburg114 said:
Do a dual shear clamp on the tie rod or weld tabs. Seen way to many single shear/bolt tabs shear on the trail. I carry a spare clamp I lend out if need be. And make sure you get the caps/union to cap the system if you ever damage the Ram or need to take it off and tie the hoses up out of the way. Cheap insurance.
Click to expand...
Gonna have my welder friend install some tabs. Good call on the caps. Probably work better than the bubble gum and vice grips I usually use.
 
Measured my steering travel on the tie rod like west Texas recommended. How's 5 1/4" sounds to y'all? My tie rod bumps the diff cover before it hits the stops on the knuckles
 
5.25" sounds pretty dang short for a D60. I'd add bends to the tie rod to get it clearing your diff cover too (or notch the cover) Are you on high steer arms or stock steering location? That can change the amount of throw needed as well
 
j20brett said:
Notch the diff cover, get all the travel out of the box you can.
Click to expand...
Heat diff cover bright red with torch, lay a steel round that's slightly larger OD than you're rod on it and have your buddy give it all he's got with the sledge. Perfect fit every time. Just make sure you put the dent in the right spot. :laughing:
 
Tires are contacting the springs at the same time the tie rod contacts the diff cover, so I'm pretty much stuck with this
 
in the middle of installing mine from WTOR.
will be adding inline magnetic filter
tapped my stock box.
had WTOR internally limit the ram for the current axle. I'll have to crack it open and set it up for the one I'm building.
adding cooler. was leaning toward a tranny cooler style setup but most folks

anyone adding a reservoir bigger than the stock one? more fluid should be cooler fluid but may not be necessary
 
Get a single pass heatsink and put it in front of the rad if you can. That’s the least restrictive option.
 
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