Sterlingfire
ignant
Nice. That makes it easy.Yes. I have a 58x reluctor. The motor in the h3 is a gen 4 L92 Escalade 6.2. I have already talked to a tuner and it can all be factory integrated
Nice. That makes it easy.Yes. I have a 58x reluctor. The motor in the h3 is a gen 4 L92 Escalade 6.2. I have already talked to a tuner and it can all be factory integrated
Stock. It’s an electric booster.What kind of booster/MC are you using? Hydroboost?
Did you drill the holes in a lathe? I’m hoping I can drill these holes myself. I can’t jig them up in a drill press. Free hand sounds like a bad idea. Should have thought about this before weekend projects begin lolAs far as i know it wasnt anything special for the taps. My buddy made his own clamp as well, turned the rod down about 1/16th inch for the clamp to sit in. It probably didnt need that much, you could make it just enough that the clamp wont slide and the 1.5" should still fit.
Yeah it was all done on a lathe.Did you drill the holes in a lathe? I’m hoping I can drill these holes myself. I can’t jig them up in a drill press. Free hand sounds like a bad idea. Should have thought about this before weekend projects begin lol
So i think it's pretty sweet! But.. the only issue may be that you didn't take off any hard angle edges. Should be rounded off on the corners, both inside and out to reduce the chance of stress risers. Probably non issue though, and it's a great idea IMO
Thanks, I wasn’t sure if it was filled in or not. First time seeing it and didn’t stack any rocks in there myself.Nice on wh3! Looks a little filled in, but is still a crazy line that denies a lot of well built rigs
I don't know what the stress proof cost, but I still think some 1.75x250 HT chromo would have been much tougher.
Maybe you run it for a while and if it starts to bug you, flip it 180* and let it straighten its self.
Now it’s time for some changes. I gotta change up my track bar. My drag link and track bar hit into each other. They both had bends in them and weren’t an issue but with the new tie rod clamp bracket (since I can’t weld a clamp on the new tie rod) the clamp hits the track bar near full bump which deflects it into the drag link. I wasn’t fond of them to begin with and not I gotta make the change.
I bent up some tube and am unsure if I will go this route or do 2 more bends to make it follow the “hump” of a differential.
3 goals, I want this behind the drag link so they can never physically touch each other vs them being in the same plane.
I also want to make sure it’s stronger then before. Im pretty sure I bent the 1.5in .25 wall track bar once before. It is tough to tell as it had a bend in it on purpose but I may have bent it. I did reinforce the existing track bar with 1/4in plate and it hasn’t bent since, so maybe I’m wasting my time and should just replicate this with 1.75 .25wall or .375 wall.
The other goal is to make it “anti wobble.” Because it has bends in it the jam nuts can come loose and allow it to swing. Since everything under my rig is like 10 lbs of shit in a 5lb box I want to find a uniball weld on cup so one end is fixed. I need it to fit in a 2in wide bracket which doesn’t seem to be as common.
From there I can work on the drag link redo
Time for an update:
I daily drove the Hummer for about 2 weeks. My wife’s car was hit in the parking lot when she was grocery shopping. So it went to the body shop…and we opted out of rental car coverage because it’s an unnecessary expense when you have a lot of NFT’s.
As a proud owner of 2 NFT’s having rental car coverage through insurance it just silly and a waste of money!
So we just picked up her car and ended up being without it for 2.5 weeks. She drove my work car while I got to drive either the F550 or Hummer. I drove the F550 for the first few days but switched to the hummer for the remainder of the time, which was about 2 weeks. It’s doesn’t require two parking spots, and is much more maneuverable then the F550. The Hummer also got lots more looks.
It did the job well, even on 43s. I wouldn’t recommend it long term on 43s but for a couple weeks it went well.
During that time I also went local wheeling twice.
First time was more trail maintenance and was less fun and more work but the 2nd trip a week later was more fun and no work.
trail maintenance day
I could go with a wider mount. My fear is deflection and pissing through joints on anything rubber. Maybe I’m over concerned but I’ve come to love setups with zero/little deflection like heims.What about a duroflex weld on joint on one end?
Or just a plain old bushing?
You may just want to widen the mount a bit. Going to 2 1/2 wouldn't be hard if the tabs are 1/4 thick.
That sucks man. I’d be heartbroken if I lost all my vehicles.Funny story, in a way.....
My in laws are big on insurance, but never did rentals since they had so many vehicles. F350, WJ, accord, CJ7, and a super moto ktm.
They managed to somehow make it out of the fire with exactly zero vehicles and had to bum a car for a while
I could go with a wider mount. My fear is deflection and pissing through joints on anything rubber. Maybe I’m over concerned but I’ve come to love setups with zero/little deflection like heims.
That sucks man. I’d be heartbroken if I lost all my vehicles.
I could go with a wider mount. My fear is deflection and pissing through joints on anything rubber. Maybe I’m over concerned but I’ve come to love setups with zero/little deflection like heims.
That sucks man. I’d be heartbroken if I lost all my vehicles.
Way back when i built my first truck(2012 or so) i emailed metalcloak about the duroflex joints being used on a track bar. Whoever it was said that they were not designed to be used that way. No other explanation then that. That was a long time ago and I'm not sure if anything has changed with them, but that was the answer i got. I can't find the email of course, but you may want to ask them just to be safe if you do intend on going that route.Id think they'd last longer than they would on a link?