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Hummer H3 Build

What kind of booster/MC are you using? Hydroboost?
Stock. It’s an electric booster.

I’m running factory H3 brake calipers in the front and typical 14 bolt disc brake swap calipers one the rear.

I modified ruffstuff kingpin 60 brackets to accept H3 calipers. It stops 43s nicely. One of the few things GM did right with the h3 lol

My buddy in his TJ has wished he had half my brake feel and stopping power for years and it stops better than my brothers 1 ton JK on 40s
 
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Had a kickass time on the rubicon. I’ll get a recap going soon
 
j20brett I just ordered the stressproof steel for my tie rod.

Did you have to use some special high dollar tap or will a cheap $26 one online work? I wasn’t sure how hard this material is. Trying to order the tap and tie rod clamp today

Also, what clamp did you use? If you used 1.5in diameter material and machined the material down wouldn’t it prevent 1.5in clamps from tightening?
 
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As far as i know it wasnt anything special for the taps. My buddy made his own clamp as well, turned the rod down about 1/16th inch for the clamp to sit in. It probably didnt need that much, you could make it just enough that the clamp wont slide and the 1.5" should still fit.
 
As far as i know it wasnt anything special for the taps. My buddy made his own clamp as well, turned the rod down about 1/16th inch for the clamp to sit in. It probably didnt need that much, you could make it just enough that the clamp wont slide and the 1.5" should still fit.
Did you drill the holes in a lathe? I’m hoping I can drill these holes myself. I can’t jig them up in a drill press. Free hand sounds like a bad idea. Should have thought about this before weekend projects begin lol
 
Got the shipment for my drill bit and tap to get going on the tie rod and the fucking package was empty :mad3: so that got postponed this weekend. I did a once over on the H3 and all is well. The new 3 link is 43in tire approved.

I still need to do a rubicon recap. I need to get pics from my sister. My phone died in a river and I didn’t back up my pics since March 2022 so I lost about 4 months of pics.
 
Did you drill the holes in a lathe? I’m hoping I can drill these holes myself. I can’t jig them up in a drill press. Free hand sounds like a bad idea. Should have thought about this before weekend projects begin lol
Yeah it was all done on a lathe.
 
Ok, time for an update on the rubicon trip. I had a blast! This was probably one of the better more relaxing trips I have had in the past couple years.

Some trips are non stop wrenching or bad weather or moving too slow. This was the perfect amount of camping, wrenching, mcgyvering, and wheeling.

It was Me in the H3, my sister in my brothers JK on 1 tons and 40s, my buddy in his 4500 TJ, his dad in his TJ on 1 tons and 40s, Billybadass411 in his YJ on 1 tons and 40s, our buddy’s grandpa in his wildcat UTV and our friend in a Willy’s on 35s. We also had a friend come out for a day in his Toyota on 37s.

I only have so many pics because the week after the rubicon I got my phone wet in a river and didn’t have my phone backed up
:mad3:


Here’s the group minus the Toyota and Willy’s.

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Our buddy in the Willy’s unfortunately was plagued with issues at the gatekeeper. We had a lot of fresh builds on this trip so it was a shakedown run for some. The Willy’s went to the rubicon in 2020 and broke a front and rear axle shaft in the granite bowls last time, he went all out with linking it front and rear and doing a ford 8.8 and Dana 44. Well the 44 he bought had a broken locker and wasn’t running right. So he parked it and he rode along.

The gatekeeper was kind of a shit show

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Broken unimog with stripped out bolt holes for the knuckle, they were there for over a day. I learned from Billybadass411 that you can cut two slits in the bolt and it acts like a tap. A rollover and a PS line issue in the gold TJ. Luckily I had a spare high pressure line that worked and got him moving again.

Swam at spider lake and made it to soup bowl we all took turns hitting it or soup kitchen.

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Here’s my sister on soup bowl. First time driving the rubicon but she wasn’t afraid. I wish she had some more fear

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Around soup bowl the UTV broke a tie rod. Luckily he had a spare. Very shortly after he broke another tie rod. Without another spare we searched for solutions and luckily I had some galvanized pipe that I use as an extension to break tight bolts loose and it fit perfectly.

We ended up camping on the slabs above Indian trail. The next morning we found out our buddy had a PS pump issue and we couldn’t get a grinder to cut out a bolt but the premier power welder did the trick cutting it out

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The next morning we headed down to buck island and swam there.

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Here I am playing on the ledge near buck. This has been my arch nemesis for years.

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We ran into some cool Argentinians near buck. They are doing a 1 year round the world off-road trip. It was cool to run into them. I had a bunch of pics on my phone but they are gone.

We made our way to rubicon springs after buck and then headed back to buck to camp.

My buddy’s grandpa kicked ass in his little UTV. He’s 80 years old and didn’t skip a beat.

The way back up we went up old sluice. The cage really has kept this body in tact. Without it id have a crushed beer can look.

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We made our way to Ellis creek for camp and headed back to the tow rigs the following morning. Sorry for the lack of pics guys, most got lost in my phone debacle :mad3:

Overall it was a blast! Hummer did well, the 43in AG tires continue to impress me. They hook up well.

I always ask myself if there is anything I’d change to improve and I’d say I’d change my rear suspension. With 43s, 400 hp, and 5.33:1 low range the suspension is fine 98% of the time. It crawls fine, flexes fine, and climbs steep obstacles fine. It struggles on ledges. I think on ledges, especially if the tires aren’t hitting the obstacle at the same time it just deflects. All I listed above with big tires, good Hp and a good low range it’s a ton of load for leafs.

I’ve been looking into 3 link rears so I can keep my gas tank in its spot. My only fear is what that upper link will see in terms of load. Especially if I’m bound up and tugging/wedging the driver side tire (3rd link would be on pass side.) I’m in no rush, just contemplating future mods.
 
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Finally got the stress proof tie rod done! Thanks Lincoln for the recommendation. He sent me to a friend, he couldn’t do it but his neighbor has a lathe big enough to do the job. Both guys were super cool and even let me use the lathe….I want one now. They are cool lol

Just gotta build a tie rod clamp now.

So, will this work perfect? Bend? Crack? Break a knuckle? Time will tell!


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So i think it's pretty sweet! But.. the only issue may be that you didn't take off any hard angle edges. Should be rounded off on the corners, both inside and out to reduce the chance of stress risers. Probably non issue though, and it's a great idea IMO
 
That’s good to know. The guys said I’m welcome back and time to use the lathe so maybe I’ll message them to see if I can knock off the edges
 
Just got back from Fordyce! We have been trying to run this trail for like 6 years. Each time something happened but it’s all over now.

We started at eagle lakes and ran the full trail.

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I was kind of surprised at how easy it was from the beginning of the trail to Winch hill 1. Lots of dusty roads dodging trees.

Driveline hill.
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Right after driveline hill our buddy in the Gold TJ had an orbital or PS pump issue so he parked it and rode with me.


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The water crossings had us worried but at 85-90 CFS it wasn’t too bad. Almost swallowing up a 37in tire.


We pressed on to winch hill 1,2 and 3. Winch hill 3 was exciting! I did the squeeze line (on the right if your looking at it from the bottom)

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I was stoked to have made it! This obstacle has messed up some rigs!

Then we cruised on to winch hill 3.5 which I didn’t even know existed and was super dug out

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I didn’t get pics of winch hill 4 because we kept the rigs moving. I felt it was a very “pinchy” section. In double low 1st gear there were times I would give it throttle and it didn’t wanna move without some more throttle then normal. I’m sure my drivetrain appreciated it!

Winch hill 5 had us all getting a tire in the air for a second.

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From there we made our way to meadow lake and got in just around sunset.

The original plan was to head back down to committee and cross to get back to the Cisco exit where the tow rigs were at but the group wanted to get the tow rigs, one was almost out of gas and another had a creeper joint explode. I was the only road legal rig so I did the 50 mile on road drive to the tow rigs, dropped off my buddy’s to get their tow rigs and head back to meadow.

From there I took off for home. I am glad I finally checked it off the list!

The tie rod didn’t fail but I may have bent the new “stressproof” setup. I gotta get a straight edge on it. It may be slightly bowed :mad3:
 
Nice on wh3! Looks a little filled in, but is still a crazy line that denies a lot of well built rigs

I don't know what the stress proof cost, but I still think some 1.75x250 HT chromo would have been much tougher.

Maybe you run it for a while and if it starts to bug you, flip it 180* and let it straighten its self.
 
Nice on wh3! Looks a little filled in, but is still a crazy line that denies a lot of well built rigs

I don't know what the stress proof cost, but I still think some 1.75x250 HT chromo would have been much tougher.

Maybe you run it for a while and if it starts to bug you, flip it 180* and let it straighten its self.
Thanks, I wasn’t sure if it was filled in or not. First time seeing it and didn’t stack any rocks in there myself.

I’m totally game for HT chromoly but I have searched high and low and can’t find HT chromoly larger then .188 wall. Maybe I suck at internet searching lol that’s part of the reason I went this route. Easy to find.
 
I bent my tie rod on fordyce. Aligned it with a piece of wire and am still using 17 years later. I leave the bend up for a little extra ground clearance.
 
I threw a straight edge on the tie rod and it appears to be straight, if it’s bent it has the slightest slightest bow. Give me 3 more runs and I’ll know if this thing will work out or not
 
I’ll get pics later from Idaho Tuff Truck Challenge but I wanted to give an update on my front sway bar.

I finished my Currie anti rock sway bar back a few months ago but took it back off almost immediately, I didn’t want to be messing with it on the trips far away from home. When I did some road miles when I first put it on I felt a little difference but not much, with that said my rear sway bar was disconnected.

This week I put the front back on for testing and hooked the rear factory sway bar back up and WOW! On road manners are phenomenal. I can grab the wheel one way and then grab it back the other way and it comes back to neutral immediately.

Off road I disconnected the rear (which is the stiffer of the two) and left the front connected and I didn’t feel too much of a difference flex wise but admittedly I need more off-road time to know how I feel about it. On road I am more then satisfied.

I chuckle as the SAS was done 8 years ago now and I am still tinkering on getting it “perfect.” Admittedly I’ve been satisfied with it since the beginning but I am always looking for that extra improvement.
 
Time for an update:

I daily drove the Hummer for about 2 weeks. My wife’s car was hit in the parking lot when she was grocery shopping. So it went to the body shop…and we opted out of rental car coverage because it’s an unnecessary expense when you have a lot of NFT’s.

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As a proud owner of 2 NFT’s having rental car coverage through insurance it just silly and a waste of money!

So we just picked up her car and ended up being without it for 2.5 weeks. She drove my work car while I got to drive either the F550 or Hummer. I drove the F550 for the first few days but switched to the hummer for the remainder of the time, which was about 2 weeks. It’s doesn’t require two parking spots, and is much more maneuverable then the F550. The Hummer also got lots more looks.

It did the job well, even on 43s. I wouldn’t recommend it long term on 43s but for a couple weeks it went well.

During that time I also went local wheeling twice.

First time was more trail maintenance and was less fun and more work but the 2nd trip a week later was more fun and no work.


trail maintenance day:

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Fun day, just wheeling.
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Now it’s time for some changes. I gotta change up my track bar. My drag link and track bar hit into each other. They both had bends in them and weren’t an issue but with the new tie rod clamp bracket (since I can’t weld a clamp on the new tie rod) the clamp hits the track bar near full bump which deflects it into the drag link. I wasn’t fond of them to begin with and not I gotta make the change.


I bent up some tube and am unsure if I will go this route or do 2 more bends to make it follow the “hump” of a differential.

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3 goals, I want this behind the drag link so they can never physically touch each other vs them being in the same plane.

I also want to make sure it’s stronger then before. Im pretty sure I bent the 1.5in .25 wall track bar once before. It is tough to tell as it had a bend in it on purpose but I may have bent it. I did reinforce the existing track bar with 1/4in plate and it hasn’t bent since, so maybe I’m wasting my time and should just replicate this with 1.75 .25wall or .375 wall.

The other goal is to make it “anti wobble.” Because it has bends in it the jam nuts can come loose and allow it to swing. Since everything under my rig is like 10 lbs of shit in a 5lb box I want to find a uniball weld on cup so one end is fixed. I need it to fit in a 2in wide bracket which doesn’t seem to be as common.

From there I can work on the drag link redo
 
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Now it’s time for some changes. I gotta change up my track bar. My drag link and track bar hit into each other. They both had bends in them and weren’t an issue but with the new tie rod clamp bracket (since I can’t weld a clamp on the new tie rod) the clamp hits the track bar near full bump which deflects it into the drag link. I wasn’t fond of them to begin with and not I gotta make the change.


I bent up some tube and am unsure if I will go this route or do 2 more bends to make it follow the “hump” of a differential.

51058586-FE72-45E0-9264-BDE88678AC7F.jpeg



3 goals, I want this behind the drag link so they can never physically touch each other vs them being in the same plane.

I also want to make sure it’s stronger then before. Im pretty sure I bent the 1.5in .25 wall track bar once before. It is tough to tell as it had a bend in it on purpose but I may have bent it. I did reinforce the existing track bar with 1/4in plate and it hasn’t bent since, so maybe I’m wasting my time and should just replicate this with 1.75 .25wall or .375 wall.

The other goal is to make it “anti wobble.” Because it has bends in it the jam nuts can come loose and allow it to swing. Since everything under my rig is like 10 lbs of shit in a 5lb box I want to find a uniball weld on cup so one end is fixed. I need it to fit in a 2in wide bracket which doesn’t seem to be as common.

From there I can work on the drag link redo

What about a duroflex weld on joint on one end?

Or just a plain old bushing?

You may just want to widen the mount a bit. Going to 2 1/2 wouldn't be hard if the tabs are 1/4 thick.
 
Time for an update:

I daily drove the Hummer for about 2 weeks. My wife’s car was hit in the parking lot when she was grocery shopping. So it went to the body shop…and we opted out of rental car coverage because it’s an unnecessary expense when you have a lot of NFT’s.

0F512972-013A-43C6-863E-AE8C84A75D65.jpeg


As a proud owner of 2 NFT’s having rental car coverage through insurance it just silly and a waste of money!

So we just picked up her car and ended up being without it for 2.5 weeks. She drove my work car while I got to drive either the F550 or Hummer. I drove the F550 for the first few days but switched to the hummer for the remainder of the time, which was about 2 weeks. It’s doesn’t require two parking spots, and is much more maneuverable then the F550. The Hummer also got lots more looks.

It did the job well, even on 43s. I wouldn’t recommend it long term on 43s but for a couple weeks it went well.

During that time I also went local wheeling twice.

First time was more trail maintenance and was less fun and more work but the 2nd trip a week later was more fun and no work.


trail maintenance day

Funny story, in a way..... :laughing:

My in laws are big on insurance, but never did rentals since they had so many vehicles. F350, WJ, accord, CJ7, and a super moto ktm.

They managed to somehow make it out of the fire with exactly zero vehicles and had to bum a car for a while :laughing:
 
What about a duroflex weld on joint on one end?

Or just a plain old bushing?

You may just want to widen the mount a bit. Going to 2 1/2 wouldn't be hard if the tabs are 1/4 thick.
I could go with a wider mount. My fear is deflection and pissing through joints on anything rubber. Maybe I’m over concerned but I’ve come to love setups with zero/little deflection like heims.
Funny story, in a way..... :laughing:

My in laws are big on insurance, but never did rentals since they had so many vehicles. F350, WJ, accord, CJ7, and a super moto ktm.

They managed to somehow make it out of the fire with exactly zero vehicles and had to bum a car for a while :laughing:
That sucks man. I’d be heartbroken if I lost all my vehicles.
 
I could go with a wider mount. My fear is deflection and pissing through joints on anything rubber. Maybe I’m over concerned but I’ve come to love setups with zero/little deflection like heims.

That sucks man. I’d be heartbroken if I lost all my vehicles.

Id think they'd last longer than they would on a link?
 
I could go with a wider mount. My fear is deflection and pissing through joints on anything rubber. Maybe I’m over concerned but I’ve come to love setups with zero/little deflection like heims.

That sucks man. I’d be heartbroken if I lost all my vehicles.

Id think they'd last longer than they would on a link?
Way back when i built my first truck(2012 or so) i emailed metalcloak about the duroflex joints being used on a track bar. Whoever it was said that they were not designed to be used that way. No other explanation then that. That was a long time ago and I'm not sure if anything has changed with them, but that was the answer i got. I can't find the email of course, but you may want to ask them just to be safe if you do intend on going that route.
 
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