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How to blow this fuggin RZR up?

Polaris pays 4 hours for a longblock on a Rzr, and that is if they would even warranty the engine. First thing Polaris is going to want to see is proof of service history at the correct intervals, second they are going to want a service report from the ecu which will show speed/rpm/tps for every minute that machine has ran.
I worked in car dealerships enough to know how this shit works.
 
I guess it depends on how deep they'll dive into the analysis.

Biggest issue is the computer is monitoring EVERY FAWKING THING and if they look at the data, they can see abuse. Also rod knocking means the engine was run low on oil/oil light ignored/run at extreme angle/run while upside down. Once again, not warrantable when they see the fawking oil light was on for 10 hours.

Before sending in an engine, DO NOT change the oil and filter. Brand new filters/fluids is a tell tale sign that someone is covering up their fuckery. When this is seen, then guys REALLY get out their magnifying glasses. Don't spray starter fluid in the intake, that'll register an overspeed and the filter is the first thing that is smelled. Once again, overspeed is customer damage.

About the only way you can make anything happen is if the oil filter goes into bypass mode and you recirculate all the metal flakes. Or more easily, hook up a trailer to this bitch and run it at 100% load. That'll find any issues as long as you back off when a warning light comes on. Or you could wait until its cold AF, go out, crank it and within 1 second, slam it into gear and WHOMPOW it across a field (typically cold engines need ~5 seconds to build oil pressure, and then after that need only light load to build heat, so theoretically you'd be putting the engine under heavy load with no oil pressure). Heavy wear means more flakes, means more bearings chewed up. Accelerating wear. This about the only way that you can trick all the sensors into being "in the green" without actually being in the green.

Or with a heavy AF trailer, engine cold, crank it, slam it in gear, and whompow it hard. Massive load with no oil in the top end. Fawker is strong but ain't that strong.

Don't actually go into the engine. Most bolts are marked/painted over. People can see when there has been fuckery.

Wildcard: Have you tried another dealer??

Anyway, that is all I got.
 
second they are going to want a service report from the ecu which will show speed/rpm/tps for every minute that machine has ran.
really?
figure flash memory is dirt cheap nowadays, just kinda shocked that that is finally a thing
used to be everyone was up in arms about "the black box" recording stuff, but in reality it was just the single point of freeze frame data when trouble codes are set
 
With the above knowledge, are ECU plug and play? Or some kind of VIN or anti theft shit?

Buy/swap ECU, grenade engine. Swap back in factory ECU. Send to dealership and act like a 16 y/o girl... It was running till it wasnt.
 
really?
figure flash memory is dirt cheap nowadays, just kinda shocked that that is finally a thing
used to be everyone was up in arms about "the black box" recording stuff, but in reality it was just the single point of freeze frame data when trouble codes are set
They track everything.



Source: Engine Controller
Target Idle RPM (RPM)1360
Vehicle Speed (KPH)0
Engine Temperature (Deg C.)24
Intake Air Temperature (Deg C.)21
Barometric Pressure (KPa)96.5
RPM (RPM)0
Engine Temperature Sensor Volts (Volts)1.43
MAP Sensor Volts (Volts)1.65
IAT Sensor Volts (Volts)1.70
Throttle Position (%)10.4
Manifold Absolute Pressure (KPa)95.8
Fuel PumpOFF
Crankshaft Signal PresentNo
Cycle SynchronizationNo
RPM LimitActive
Engine Runtime Total (Minutes)84
Brake SwitchInact.
Selected GearPark
Gear Switch Volts (Volts)1.8
Injector Pulse Width Cylinder 2 (ms)0
Ignition Coil 2 Dwell (ms)2.7
Ignition Timing Cylinder 2 (Deg BTDC)0
Cooling Fan Relay DriverInact.
Absolute Throttle Percent (%)17.2
AWD Driver Inact.
AWD SwitchInact.
Injector Pulse Width Cylinder 1 (ms)0
Ignition Coil 1 Dwell (ms)2.7
Ignition Timing Cylinder 1 (Deg BTDC)0
Percent Engine Load (%)99.6
Desired Torque Change for Idle Speed Control (%)0.0
Throttle Angle Mass Air Flow Correction Factor1.0
Engine Runtime Since Key On (Minutes)0
Mixture Adaption High Load1.00
Mixture Adaption Low Load0
Boost Pressure (KPa)95.8
Throttle Position Sensor 2 Volts (Volts)2.75
Drag Torque Adaptation (%)0.8
Throttle Position Sensor 1 Volts (Volts)0.57
Throttle Limp-home Operation ConditionNo
Throttle Body Initialization - Learn Value SaveYes
Throttle Body Initialization - Learning SuccessYes
Safety Fuel Cut-off ConditionInact.
Reversible Injection Cut-off ConditionInact.
Irreversible Injection Cut-off ConditionInact.
Fault Reaction Demand from ETC Function MonitoringInact.
Throttle Body Learning Step11
Accelerator Position Sensor 1 (Volts)1.08
Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (Volts)0.53
Lambda Sensor Voltage (Volts)1.64
Lambda Sensor Heater OutputInact.
Air/Fuel RatioLean
Closed Loop StatusOpen
Total Engine Hours (Hours)1.40
F7_1_SK_0_230
F7_1_PT_2_010
F7_1_AW_2_671
F7_1_AD_3_010
F7_1_TF_3_230
F7_1_PB_3_450
Target Boost Pressure (KPa)95.8
Boost Control Solenoid Duty Cycle (%)0.0
Boost Temperature (Deg C.)21
Boost Pressure Sensor Voltage (Volts)1.65
Boost Temperature Sensor Voltage (Volts)3.48
Intercooler Pump DriverInact.
Engine Run Time (Minutes)84
Engine Overheats0
Overheat Shutdowns0
Average Closed Loop Adjustment Factor Cyl 11.00
Weighted Misfire Counter (Counts)-1.006633E+08
High Range Engine Percent Load (%)100.0
Cooling Fan Duty Cycle (%)''
System DC Power / Critical Power (Volts)11.50
Source: Instrument Cluster
Total Vehicle Distance (Odometer) (km)0.84
Source: Power Steering
Output Steering Torque (Nm)0.0
Steering Driver Current (Amps)-0.30
Steering Inverter Temperature (Deg C.)18.0
Input Steering Torque (Nm)0.0
EPS Absolute Position Offset (Deg)12.9
EPS Absolute Position Raw (Deg)N/A
EPS Steering Angle (Radian)-162.0
Source: Suspension Controller
Shock Current Front Left (mA)0
Shock Current Front Right (mA)0
Shock Current Rear Left (mA)0
Shock Current Rear Right (mA)0
Suspension Control Mode Switch Voltage (Volts)3.0
Suspension Control Supply RelayError
Suspension Control Steering Offset (Deg)-32765.0
Number of Key On Events0
Time In Mode 0 (Minutes)0
Time In Mode 1 (Minutes)0
Time In Mode 2 (Minutes)0
Number of Mode Transitions0
Number of Airborne Events0
Number of Braking Events0
Number of Left Corner Events0
Number of Right Corner Events0
Number of Anti-Squat Events0
Number of Vehicle Overturned Events0



 
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And this is without even dissecting it.

TPS History
Range
Time​
%RT​
0-10
1:17:54​
94.06%​
11-20
0:04:48​
5.80%​
21-40
0:00:07​
0.14%​
41-60
0:00:00​
0.00%​
61-80
0:00:00​
0.00%​
81-100
0:00:00​
0.00%​
6D9FD&chds=0,4969&chd=t1:4674,288,7,0,0,0&chtt=TPS.png
RPM History
Range
Time​
%RT​
0-3000
1:19:20​
95.56%​
3001-4500
0:03:37​
4.36%​
4501-6000
0:00:04​
0.08%​
6001-7500
0:00:00​
0.00%​
7501-8500
0:00:00​
0.00%​
8501-9500
0:00:00​
0.00%​
6D9FD&chds=0,4981&chd=t1:4760,217,4,0,0,0&chtt=RPM.png
Vehicle Speed History
Range
Time​
%RT​
0-26
1:23:20​
100.00%​
27-51
0:00:00​
0.00%​
52-77
0:00:00​
0.00%​
78-103
0:00:00​
0.00%​
104-129
0:00:00​
0.00%​
130-154
0:00:00​
0.00%​
=0,5000&chd=t1:5000,0,0,0,0,0&chtt=Vehicle%20Speed.png
Boost Pressure History
Range
Time​
%RT​
0-100
1:09:36​
84.01%​
101-140
0:13:15​
15.99%​
141-160
0:00:00​
0.00%​
161-180
0:00:00​
0.00%​
181-200
0:00:00​
0.00%​
201-255
0:00:00​
0.00%​
4971&chd=t1:4176,795,0,0,0,0&chtt=Boost%20Pressure.png

 
day two and still a running engine

I saw a drunk guy on the other side of camp that could do it in one evening, and did
 
For everyone bashing crispins think about how you would feel in his position. He paid extra for a warranty on top of buying a new machine with the idea that he could avoid the stress of renting out a timebomb and now he's got that to think about every day until it either blows up or he gets rid of it. That being said, sometimes you've got to take the beating. We all get fucked once in a while, maybe it's just his time.

I agree with the dealer being in a bad spot. Manufacturers are much less willing to warranty anything these days and require meticulous documentation to get their end paid. IF you have a stellar dealer and you have a great relationship with them, they will eat it on their end as much as they can. Sounds like you haven't shown them how valuable a customer you are, or they aren't a stellar dealer. For the money he's dropped, it seems that they would be more helpful, even if they would tear the damn thing down to find the issue and try to find a way to split costs with you, or split whatever the manufacturer won't pay.

I know dealer/customer relationships like this are very rare these days, but it still does happen.
 
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rev limiter + proper maintenance = the engine should not have metal flakes in it

it does so its a lemon
I agree completely, I didn’t understand his post.

My post was on the lines of Polaris seeing this thread and voiding his warranty.
 
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id guess some karen already saved this thread and sent it to polaris, this thread should have never been made or at a minimum put in the TP :homer:
For sure. Probably one of the dumbest threads I’ve ever seen posted.

Guaranteed it’s already been seen by Polaris. There are multiple Polaris employees on this forum:homer:

But, Deleting now would simply show guilt and seal the deal. I think I’ve now realized how a person can go from millions to broke in no time.
 
For sure. Probably one of the dumbest threads I’ve ever seen posted.

Guaranteed it’s already been seen by Polaris. There are multiple Polaris employees on this forum:homer:

But, Deleting now would simply show guilt and seal the deal. I think I’ve now realized how a person can go from millions to broke in no time.

For once we agree, I called him a dick in post #2 :D
 
I've got a 55 gallon barrel of laser dust, could flat rate you a box of it if you think it'll help.
 
With the above knowledge, are ECU plug and play? Or some kind of VIN or anti theft shit?

Buy/swap ECU, grenade engine. Swap back in factory ECU. Send to dealership and act like a 16 y/o girl... It was running till it wasnt.
Now that right there is god damn genius thinking.

Yeah typically ECUs are programmed to the engine (matching serial numbers) and ECUs are considered to be part of the emission control equipment.

If you have a similar Rzr that uses the same engine but is out of warranty, there ya go.
 
For sure. Probably one of the dumbest threads I’ve ever seen posted.

Guaranteed it’s already been seen by Polaris. There are multiple Polaris employees on this forum:homer:

But, Deleting now would simply show guilt and seal the deal. I think I’ve now realized how a person can go from millions to broke in no time.
If there are multiple Polaris employees on this forum, then maybe one of them should PM him and offer to help him out. He's bought 14 of them and he's renting them out to people who then have a good time and think to themselves "I should buy one of these"... unless of course it breaks down mid rental.
 
If there are multiple Polaris employees on this forum, then maybe one of them should PM him and offer to help him out. He's bought 14 of them and he's renting them out to people who then have a good time and think to themselves "I should buy one of these"... unless of course it breaks down mid rental.
and yet the only person even close to being able to actually offer him sound advice/help did nothing but belittle him, kinda lets you know how stealerships, oops i mean dealerships, treat people when theyre not buying something
 
Always fun when people see what they want and obviously don't read the whole thread.

I'll take him at his words here. And I posted these in reverse order because the multiquote here is bullshit that won't cut/paste.:flipoff2:
Anyway I guess I will just let the unit do whatever it is going to do.

I was hoping to come up with something I hadn't thought of that could get this thing knocking now instead of later.

Besides the ether (which I don't like) most everything is shit I thought of (brick on the gas pedal)

I guess at this point I hope for some warm days in Nov and I will take it out and beat on it, besides that there isn't much I can do.

I get Polaris's position as for why they won't do anything now.

Anyone that wanted a new engine could just toss some metal flake into it.

So them wanting to wait until it is knocking or windows the block makes sense.

Ugg - I just don't think I can do that.

The suggestion to chop the throttle on and off I think is the one I am going to try.

This thread was mostly just venting my frustration that for the last 225+ hours the machine makes metal glitter into the oil and still sounds fine.

I cannot do anything like putting ether into it or remove all the oil.

basically I was just looking for tips to get it to go sooner than later as there is no way this motor will last as it is eating itself.
 
Fucking SBS rentals in my parts are north of $350 for half day! They also put a charge on a credit card for $1200--$1500 in case of breakage. I was considering buying a couple of two seaters for shits and giggles. But what the fuck; for what I would spend on that SBS shit; I could build a couple of nice buggies and not have the worries.
The fuckiing SBS crowd is really getting out of hand. Their shit is fucking loud exhaust; Mexican ghetto blasters, and huge fucking light bars. :mad3:
 
and yet the only person even close to being able to actually offer him sound advice/help did nothing but belittle him, kinda lets you know how stealerships, oops i mean dealerships, treat people when theyre not buying something
Didn't' know anyone who commented was one. Poor form on their part.
 
I think it was F2504x4 that you guys are thinking was the Popo rep. I took his post to mean that he was a factory rep in general not that he was a Polaris rep.:confused:

Crispins I would most likely delete this thread and buy a spare engine to keep in the back room just in case. No good is gonna come from this thread. The old saying of 3S's kind of applies to this as well. If you are gonna do something to pop the motor I sure as hell wouldn't post it on a public forum.
 
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