What's new
By:
Filters
  • Forums will go offline Wednesday Dec 4th at 10AM CST for updates. It's a big update, so the site may be offline for a few hours.

Homemade Attachments for Forklifts Skidsteers and Other Equipment

AlxJ64 said:
Sorry, no. Other people have ruined me for sharing files. I typed out a long explanation of what happened last time but deleted it because it doesn't matter. Just know that I've been burned by being nice and just don't do it anymore; its not worth the constant questions about my drawings, the fact that my drawings aren't cleaned up and just ready to burn, and the fact that others have taken them and started mass producing them when the original deal was "just for personal use".
Click to expand...
can conform this
solid no when I am asked too

just looked the other day, guy on eBay still has my stuff for sale for like 10+ years now :laughing:
 
I share every file I make and can confirm fitment and utility for purpose of. I don't want to be in the mail order parts business so I'm not losing anything as far as I care.
 
[486] said:
"power-but-not-powered-but-kinda-powered-power-rake"

real neat
if I don't get around to making a power rake I might make one of them instead
Click to expand...
I’m curious how they attached the high carbon teeth to it.
 
72Pstroke said:
Any chance you would share the .dxf on the X-change brackets?
Click to expand...
Meh, it ain’t that hard to reverse engineer what he built if you need one. I do it all the time but almost always tweak things to work for my purposes.
 
I made a lifting boom attachment last year but just modified it the other day. I installed a hitch receiver tube on it to move my trailers around. I made an attachment that slid over one of my pallet forks but I beat the shit out of it two years ago pushing my 16,000 gvwr tag trailer around our farm hauling deer stand around. Its still usable but I’m tired of dealing with it.

So the modified boom works great and I wish I did this before.


IMG_6534.jpeg
IMG_6535.jpeg
IMG_6533.jpeg
 
Landslide said:
I’m curious how they attached the high carbon teeth to it.
Click to expand...

[486] said:
probably just some preheat and postheat, same as you'd weld anything with a lot of carbon in it
Click to expand...

Run your tubes the other way front to back and you could bolt some replacable teeth to it real easy. I have a bunch from some ancient beet thinner that would work awesome for something like that.
 
billybob_81067 said:
Run your tubes the other way front to back and you could bolt some replacable teeth to it real easy. I have a bunch from some ancient beet thinner that would work awesome for something like that.
Click to expand...
That tool works great in good soil conditions. Go to a Ricky environment like where I live and those teeth will need replaced due to being knocked off and or just wore out. I’d love to see a video of it operating for a long period of time here.

I love the Harley power rake attachment which uses welded on carbide pick teeth like those on an asphalt/concrete road planner attachment has. It breaks up dirt clods and allows you to windrow the rocks, sticks and debris to scoop up. It’ll look like a dirt golf course when done. I’d have to look at old photos from 25 years ago when I cleared out several hindered cedar trees including their stumps. Looked like a war zone with holes everywhere. I graded out with a bucket then used the Harley power rake attachment. I love that tool as it works when you’re traveling forward. But they are very $$$ today. It’s best to rent one on jobs unless you have a business and need one. Rule is if you rent something more than four times a month you better buy one.

Manual attachments like that dirt leveler rake thing have their place but it’s not new bumpy any stretch of the imagination.
 
I drew up DXF files on this attachment several years ago but I can’t find the thumb drive I put it on

A buddy wanted to build one and sell them too. We bought this one for our farm through a rental purchase deal. It was new when I got it. I’ve used the fawk out of it and it’s by far one of the best grapple attachments out there. Has replaceable teeth on the shanks.

This is a wood pile behind my shop I stacked with it but that’s easy work for what I really use it for at our farm. Ours is 96” wide.
IMG_6564.jpeg
IMG_6566.jpeg
IMG_6567.jpeg
IMG_6569.jpeg
 
Needed a grading bucket / loose material bucket for my mini... knocked this out over the course of a few evenings.

My little SWAG press brake is only good for 18" wide and this is a 36" wide bucket so I did it in two pieces. My plasma table is also only a tiny little TM2x4 from back when Bill still was building them; ie before Lincoln bought the line and disowned us small time guys.

20241020_112559.jpg


20241021_190545.jpg


20241021_201500.jpg


20241025_211436.jpg


Not quite done but you get the idea.
 
Last edited:
urjb said:
Untested fork attachment for a coworker’s mini ex.. I’ll give it to him this week for testing. Still need to cut some caps for the end of the tube so the forks don’t slide off.

1730650221231.jpeg

1730650258674.jpeg
Click to expand...
Pin or bolt something so they can get swapped out easy after they get bent.
 
urjb said:
Untested fork attachment for a coworker’s mini ex.. I’ll give it to him this week for testing. Still need to cut some caps for the end of the tube so the forks don’t slide off.

1730650221231.jpeg

1730650258674.jpeg
Click to expand...
What’s he planning on lifting with those?
 
Question.
Who's using what material for loader pins? I am working on a design for a tilt attachment for my mini excavator and have spec'd my hydraulics, gotten some drawings started, but in my initial digging, the comments on material for pins is all over the place. Obviously not using HR A36 or anything but have seen people say 4140 is fine (I actually have some on hand, so that would be nice) but have also seen people mention using through induction hardened steel that is then ground to size. Its going to be 1" diameter pins for they cylinders and a 1-1/4" for the main hinge for a tilt attachment on a 5T excavator.

A friend suggested finding off the shelf stuff from other applications and designing to use those. Not a bad idea but if I can use the 4140 I have, then also would be nice.
 
4140 is what we've used for generic pins.
Have also used old cylinder rod. Some of that is 4140, sometimes it's 1050 I think?
 
If it's standard diameters, you can usually find gneric pins on ebay and cut them to length. That's when I ended up doing with my JCB. I found a chrome plated/hardened one with the right OD but too long. Even had the right hole for the retaining bolt. Just cut it to length and threw it in the lathe to put a taper back on it. Ended up being cheaper than buying a chunk of raw stock.
 
Yeah yeah yeah wrong thread blah blah blah blah watch it anyways.
it’s a local band with some local ranchers builds.
Wait for it…

 
We use stress proof steel for pins, which is 1144, I guess. It's just what the local machine shop said to use. We also use chrome plated rods from a Gardener Denver 5 x 6 mud pump, they are 1" o.d.
 
Had to watch this a few times to understand what I was seeing.

Neat way to make the "thingy" ridgid to the trailer, maybe a good way to fuck up a coupler though.

 
bgaidan said:
I feel like this belongs here....
Click to expand...

Never seen a lift like that just on casters.

I didn't see much for weight on it. Those things are wobbly enough when they've got 2000 lbs of batteries and pumps and drive stuff at the bottom.

Wonder if it used to have outriggers, or at least legs to keep the casters from rolling.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Never seen a lift like that just on casters.

I didn't see much for weight on it. Those things are wobbly enough when they've got 2000 lbs of batteries and pumps and drive stuff at the bottom.

Wonder if it used to have outriggers, or at least legs to keep the casters from rolling.
Click to expand...

It had outriggers. He points them out at one point in the vid.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh