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Home brew 2 piece driveshaft

Sluggy

Sluggy

Drives by braille
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Member Number
2320
Messages
832
Loc
Bay Area
So after upgrading my toy cases to np241/d300 doubler my rear driveline is now 54" fully collapsed. I thought about just making a straight driveline but it just hangs down way too low. So I'm now building this setup with hopes of no issues. FYI this is for my buggy "low speed"

Parts used:
toyota t case/ diff flange with the slinger removed
Dodge part# 126811 hd pillow block 1.5" ID
Pinion from a 8" diff

20230531_180852.jpg

20230609_075452.jpg

Here is the start of the tcase side of the shaft, I'm using a large solid chunk that I'll turn the inside down for the pinion shank to fit in and weld.
20230609_075501.jpg

It fits real nice
20230609_075520.jpg

I was going to use a gear drive tcase output originally but decided against it. Main reason was that part of it is hollow for oiling and the pinion has a step/ thicker/ solid.
 
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So once I bore that hole in the sleeve part, I'll weld the pinion to it and slip it into the driveline and weld that. I should be able bolt the pinion and flange all together.

20230609_083423.jpg



What sayith the IBB toyota crew on this setup?
 
This was the strongest one my local bearing place offered. It's made in USA and I'm hoping it holds up, fingers crossed.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
No personal experience, but the cast pillow blocks don't have a great reputation for a carrier bearing.

High angle makes a billet housing
Click to expand...
That UCP frame doesn't.

Get a UCPA frame an put it upside down with bushings on the mounts. Mine has been that way for 3 years and been abused.

pillow%20block%20%20bearing%20series.jpg
 
Bebop said:
That UCP frame doesn't.

Get a UCPA frame an put it upside down with bushings on the mounts. Mine has been that way for 3 years and been abused.
Click to expand...

Good to know, I'm planning on a 2 piece front on mine soon.

Upside down from the pic, correct?

Make sense, since the most force is going to be straight up when smacking a rock.

We used to use a shit ton of the uct style for the adjustment side of conveyors. It's pretty simple to makebthe rails out of square cold rolled. Wonder how that would hold up the withe rails vertical and rubber above and below it to capture it?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Good to know, I'm planning on a 2 piece front on mine soon.

Upside down from the pic, correct?

Make sense, since the most force is going to be straight up when smacking a rock.
Click to expand...

Correct
The UCPA frame adds a LOT of material on the base and that's what will take the hit if you mount it upside down.


YotaAtieToo said:
We used to use a shit ton of the uct style for the adjustment side of conveyors. It's pretty simple to make the rails out of square cold rolled. Wonder how that would hold up the withe rails vertical and rubber above and below it to capture it?
Click to expand...
Why not. Worth a shot.

UCF frames are pretty strong too if you capture all 4 bolts.
 
AND the bushing makes since because there will be some run out. dont care if its .003 of an inch it is some and the bushing will allow the block to flex that much and not wear out the bearing its self to fast. at least this makes since in my mind.. :lmao::lmao:
 
So I've updated the design due to the good info you guys supplied.

New carrier bearing
20230609_140147.jpg


I also purchased a sleeve to take up the left over space to help keep it true.
20230609_135753.jpg
20230609_145358.jpg

I'll have more info after I machine the other parts this weekend. Thanks again guys for the help.

Jimbo
 
Sluggy said:
So I've updated the design due to the good info you guys supplied.

New carrier bearing
20230609_140147.jpg


I also purchased a sleeve to take up the left over space to help keep it true.
20230609_135753.jpg
20230609_145358.jpg

I'll have more info after I machine the other parts this weekend. Thanks again guys for the help.

Jimbo
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting, I was unaware of the ucpa style.

What was the cost on that unit? Did you price Timken?
 
Sluggy nice !
I’d get a steel sleeve so you can tack weld it to your shaft and the bearing. Those set screws don’t work for shit.
Keep the bearing lubricated and you’ll be golden

YotaAtieToo $35 on eBay for my China unit. Still tight. But I keep it greased every trip.
 
Paid about 125 for the bearing and 8 bucks for the sleeve. I didn't price Timken and just went with what my buddy had in stock.
YotaAtieToo said:
Thanks for posting, I was unaware of the ucpa style.

What was the cost on that unit? Did you price Timken?
Click to expand...
 
Bebop said:
Those set screws don’t work for shit.
Keep the bearing lubricated.
Click to expand...
I was thinking of putting 2 divots on the flange shank to help with keeping it in place. I'll keep my shaft well lubed....
 
20230617_171711.jpg
20230617_174306.jpg

Still messing with it, I made a good candidate for my shitty welds of the month. Working on mounting the pillow block with a rubber bushing. Just haven't had a ton of time, due to other things going on in life.
 
That's basically what I'm doing, going to have it done Thursday night. I wanna try to make my break in run to Hollister Saturday or Sunday.
 
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