Higher horses, higher revs & even higher torque, a streetable LJ engine swap

[toximus]

My first choice is to actually run this bracket (GoatBuilt 4415) for the steering pump which would also leave more room around the intake if I ever choose to supercharge, but with my unfamiliarity I'm concerned that there isn't enough belt wrap.

All I'd have to do then is make a custom bracket to add an idler between the water pump and SC.

 

[toximus]

To get better clearance around the front driveshaft, I'm ordering one of these 6L80e angled bulkheads from Australia:

https://www.marks4wd.com/mfk20256

Shipping is expensive at $69. If anyone else wants one let me know and we can combine shipping. I'll be placing my order at the end of the week.

 

[gt1guy]

Here's one a bit closer.

http://www.twistmachine.com/billet-...t-transmission-cooler-manifold-for-6l80-6l90/

 

[toximus]

Here's one a bit closer.

http://www.twistmachine.com/billet-...t-transmission-cooler-manifold-for-6l80-6l90/

That's similar to what I have now. My issue is that once I put a fitting on it, with my front axle at full bump, a 1-1/4" driveshaft is closer than I'd like to it.

This picture isn't great, but shows roughly where the driveshaft sits (I've since replaced the DOM with a cut driveshaft). It's going to be an insanely tight area once I put the exhaust and shifters through there.

 

[gt1guy]

Oh, I see that.

 

[toximus]

I have just over 10-1/2" of space between the back of the grill (AC condenser) and the front of the accessory belt with Corvette spacing. The new radiator is 3.75" and the electric fan is 3.75" leaving me with 3.5" with Corvette spacing. I could replace my alternator for a smaller one and keep that Corvette spacing, but since I have the room I decided to go to truck spacing (1.5" further forward) which allows for the most compact placement of the accessory drive. The 2010 Camaro uses the truck spacing so I ordered up a new water pump (ACDelco 251-734) and alternator brackets that work with it. I'll be left with 2" which still leaves options available if I choose to add another cooler.

To share some of my research I won't be using: I think the bracket spacings would be different so I didn't go for it, but I did find the ACDelco 251-816/12681186 water pump which offers the most clearance since it doesn't have a snout. If I was keeping the alternator on the left (driver's) side I would use this pump.

A consequence of moving the engine back and tucking the transfer case up so high is that there's little to no room for exhaust. Before I finalize the mounts I need to mock up exhaust and really would prefer to get a pipe bent up so I know exactly what I'm dealing with. I talked briefly to Stainless Headers Mfg who's about 5 hours from me about their unique exhaust pieces and if they can do the install -- they can in 3-4 months, but their pricing is extremely high and I'd only pay it if there's no other way.

I ordered a flexible 2-1/2" pipe to rapidly play around with routing and see where it can fit.

 

[toximus]

The Art-Carr/Winters 4L80 shifter arrived. I played around with fitting it into the console area and adapted it for tap shift with the kit from Radesigns. For now I have the rock gate installed, but I'll probably modify it so it functions the way I want.

 

[toximus]

I wanted to show you guys the difference between the (Camaro?) headers that come with the LS3 and the CTS-V.

CTS-V on top:

The LS3 header hits the UCA on the driver's side and doesn't fit. Here's the passenger side:

CTS-V header is close to the steering bushing. I'll probably have to relocate the bushing.

CTS-V header on the passenger side:

Here's my 1.25" mocked up driveshaft with the front axle at full bump:

I used a vacuum hose to test clearance for the exhaust.

Coming off the header:

I drooped the axle for the picture, but it clears (barely):

My original plan was to go over top of the transmission into a y-pipe. There's about 1/4" of clearance to the body if I have the exhaust pipe routed over top of the 6L80 to Atlas adapter. It's super tight.

This lead me to play with other easier routes. I found that I might be able to loop the exhaust over top of the driveshaft right after the Savvy mid-arm bracket (under the brake pedal). From there I could do a true dual pipe out the back. The downside here is that all of that heat will run right along my fuel and brake lines...

 

[toximus]

Mulling over how to design engine mounts... I'm tempted to cut off the last 2" of the stock mounts and use them as a foundation to build off. I want to get the transmission support in first so I can level the engine since it's leaning a little bit.

 

[toximus]

I think the 6L80 manifold I posted earlier from Marks4x4 has better placement of the fittings with one of the fittings mounted on top, but I did run across this one in the USA for a little cheaper: https://www.motionraceworks.com/pro...w-profile-side-exit-with-gaskets-and-fittings

 

[toximus]

I decided I'd be more imaginative with a clean slate so I cut the 4.0 engine frame horns off:

 

[toximus]

I was able to bend my dipstick to fit around the CTS-V manifolds. (The tape is to prevent scratches.)

 

[toximus]

The rubber mount Advance Adapters sells (AA #716101, GM #15840278) sticks below the shallow transmission pan. So that's going into the return pile...

 

[toximus]

I came up with my own transmission support design using bushings from Autofab (part# BA125) and ordered the steel to make it. Unfortunately I'm nearing the end of things I can work on until this crossmember is in. Fingers crossed that it makes it here by the end of the week but the shipping services seem pretty backed up right now.

 

[toximus]

I was hoping to show off the new alternator bracket that I bought over Black Friday, but it seems that I received the wrong version since it has a fitment issue. :(

 

[toximus]

The LS3 leak detection pump (LDP) was in the way of moving the alternator over, it could easily be relocated but since I wasn't running one before anyway I opted to remove it. It has also been removed in the tuning of my ECU so I won't have a check engine light.

I used a vacuum cap to plug off the throttle body:

 

[toximus]

I assembled a Swag finger brake I bought during last year's Black Friday sale. It was a fun little kit to build!

I tried bending a piece of 1/8" scrap and the bend isn't tight enough for the bracket I need to make. I need to play around with the brake some more to see if I can improve. If not I think I'll cut and weld the bracket from 5 pieces instead of bending it from 1 piece.

 

[toximus]

While I have the drivetrain out I figured I'd snap a pic to show the areas of the tub that have been clearanced. It's difficult to tell, but most of this has been moved 1-3" to make room.

 

[Dookey]

I was hoping to show off the new alternator bracket that I bought over Black Friday, but it seems that I received the wrong version since it has a fitment issue. :(

Ah yes. Starting to feel familiar this thread.

 

[toximus]

Ah yes. Starting to feel familiar this thread.

 

[Drakeslayer]

I assembled a Swag finger brake I bought during last year's Black Friday sale. It was a fun little kit to build!

I tried bending a piece of 1/8" scrap and the bend isn't tight enough for the bracket I need to make. I need to play around with the brake some more to see if I can improve. If not I think I'll cut and weld the bracket from 5 pieces instead of bending it from 1 piece.

If you read the distructions from SWAG you will see that for tight radii with thin metal you can use thin angle iron "inserts" in the bottom die to get sharper bends. The thin angle inserts have a sharper radius in the inside of the vee of the angle iron. I have made two inserts, a 3/16" x 1", and an 1/8" x 3/4" which I double up for real thin stock. The thinner the angle the smaller the radius for the 90 degree bend.

 

[toximus]

Before welding up the transmission mount I finalized the location of the new drivetrain by moving the engine where it fits, and then angling the rear output of the transfer case to point at the yoke on the rear axle. I did this by running string between the yokes (both at the same orientation) and an angle to check. I placed a laser at the front and back of the Jeep to mark the true center of the Jeep. The engine ended up somewhere around 3/4" offset in the front, and 3/8" offset at the rear of the transfer case -- my measurements will obviously be different than another Jeep based on which components it's running and even wheelbase.

 

[toximus]

I then set off to make my cardboard transmission mount into reality.

Everything is made out of .120" or 1/8". The crossmember is 1-1/4" DOM.

The hex head bolts wouldn't fit in the 1x1 tubing with a socket so I welded a button head on and placed an order for some new bolts.

I found there's a 1* discrepancy between level on my engine and the adapter from Advance Adapters. I decided to focus on leveling the engine since the Atlas doesn't care which orientation it's in.

When I made the bushing assembly I used as tight of tolerances as possible. I found that this placed the Atlas about 3/16" lower than I would have liked. So I made a shim to raise it to the desired height.

I still need to place a gusset on the center support to the crossmember. That'll happen during final welding. As well as attaching the crossmember to the frame <-- that will happen after getting the engine mounts in place. For now, the ends of the DOM are cut at a 9* angle and sit close to the frame so I have length to work with later.

 

[toximus]

I shot a laser at the crank to show how low the engine is sitting on the frame. This is around 1-2" lower than the inline 6 sat.

Here's a first look at the intake sitting on the engine.

I haven't heard anything about when the correct alternator brackets are expected to ship so excuse the sloppy mock up here. I'll go into my ideology behind moving the alternator and list out in depth the details once I have that all in hand.

I talked with Drew at Goatbuilt about their accessory drive brackets. He's sending me out updated standoffs which will correct the issue I'm having with the bracket hitting the water pump. He also mentioned that some guys have reported the belt gets thrown with this belt routing and they narrowed the issue down to the Gates TJ tensioners. They switched to Dayco tensioners and haven't had an issue with it since. He said if the belt is going to be thrown it happens right away -- not as a surprise down the road.

I'll keep an extra belt onboard just in case and worst case I'll revert back to both the alternator and power steering pump on the driver side which doesn't have any issues and will be easy enough to switch on a weekend even after the swap is completed.

 

[toximus]

I moved the engine over and marked where I need to notch for the AC compressor. I'll come back to that once I have the engine mounts in place and am 100% positive of the engine placement.

 

[toximus]

The transmission crossmember really firmed up the rest of the driveline placement and it no longer moves when I bump it. So I moved the engine back to it's home and cycled the front axle to check again for clearance.

Everything cleared the 1-1/4" driveshaft except for a few tiny spots I won't know for sure until after my real driveshaft is in place:

1. The corner of the Savvy mid-arm mount on the frame may barely kiss the driveshaft (easily fixable).
2. The knobs that stick out the oil pan may get close to the larger splined section of the driveshaft (I'm going to cut those off anyway).
3. Where the cable attaches to the 6L80e shift lever rubs under articulation when the transmission is in park, neutral, reverse and maybe a little bit in drive (didn't hit in tap shift position). This may prevent being able to shift while in extreme articulation situations. Although even in a nose over situation where I want to quickly shift from drive (or tap position) to reverse I can't imagine that the front end would be articulated like that. So I don't think this will ever be a problem aside from not being able to put it in park for poser shots.

This picture at full articulation shows how far under the oil pan the axle travels:

 

[toximus]

To get more room on the passenger side I swapped the CTS-V manifold back to the one that came with the engine.

 

[toximus]

Started mocking up the engine side mount:

 

[toximus]

Steering mount on the frame is in the way.

 

[toximus]

The mockup for the frame side bracket is starting to take rough shape.