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High steer options for '94 BJ D60

rattle_snake

Fuckwits
Joined
Jun 23, 2020
Member Number
2156
Messages
1,540
Loc
Chandler, AZ
Looking to improve steering setup on my BGT/mall crawler. Currently is has Cheby 1T TRE in 1.5/0.25 wall DOM, TRO style. The system works OK and goes down the highway just fine. Issues I have is that the drag link is at a steep enough angle to rotate the tie rod when steering force is applied. So I want to connect drag link to knuckle, and up higher to reduce angle. aka high steer.

As it is today
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I have a 1994 axle. Best solution I have found is Sky offroad's high steer arm and machine service.

I could leave tie rod as-is and just fab a longer drag link. Use existing TRE on high steer arm. This would also help solve another issue, which is that the drag link is the liming factor of axle droop. The pitman arm TRE is a high angle type but maxed out, and protected by the limit straps. With high steer arm and at full bump the drag link will come close to frame. High steer would also allow track bar to be more flat, reducing lateral axle movement.

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Other options? feedback on Sky offroad? General bitching?
:flipoff2:
 
Meh, no bitching here, but that's how i did it on my kingpin. Just used the high steer arm on the p side knuckle for the d link. Obviously not a b joint axle, but it's the same setup you are looking into and mine worked fine. I don't know anything about sky though....
 
A buddy sent his knuckle to Sky to have that done earlier this year. He's happy with it, but it definitely didnt turn around next day like they claim, it was more like a few weeks.
 
I have the SKY setup on my BJ 60 and have had no issues with it. Just running the passenger side arm.
 
Great thanks will pull the trigger on the setup. Truck is down with fuel issue and will get new exhaust system so good time to send the knuckle out to those knuckleheads.
 
I've been looking at that too. Roughly $600 to go high-steer with EMF ends, without touching the tierod.

I swore there was a DIY weld-on kit, but I'm not seeing it for the older stuff.

A buddy sent his knuckle to Sky to have that done earlier this year. He's happy with it, but it definitely didnt turn around next day like they claim, it was more like a few weeks.
Next day? Maybe they updated the page.


5. We will machine it and mail it back to you! If you order a steering kit with other parts, we will not ship the additional parts without your knuckle due to shipping cost factored as a complete order and inventory issues.

Our knuckle machining shop only operates Monday through Thursday. No knuckle machining happens on Friday, Saturday or Sunday. If your knuckle arrives to us on Thursday afternoon, it will not be ready to ship until Wednesday of the following week, depending on current lead time
 
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There is a weld-on kit from Beyond Precise. For a trail only rig, I would probly do that. I am thinking about this too, and since I street drive I am not sure I completely trust a welded arm
 
I've been looking at that too. Roughly $600 to go high-steer with EMF ends, without touching the tierod.

I swore there was a DIY weld-on kit, but I'm not seeing it for the older stuff.
I did find a weld on kit:
It uses tie rod hole to secure and needs rod ends instead of TREs. From reading I did weld-on it not the best way to go for a rig that see highway speeds.
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Could also just fab an upper brace to double sheer the TR and DL on same bolt in TR hole using rod ends. Secure to knuckle with weld, bolts or both.
But then have to drill P knuckle, and do something with driver side if to match, drill and rod end. Pitman arm end and so on.

So the Sky setup seems simple and can use all my existing TREs. May have to remove arm to get pass side TRE out, given I have already reamed knuckles for TRO.
 
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There is a weld-on kit from Beyond Precise. For a trail only rig, I would probly do that. I am thinking about this too, and since I street drive I am not sure I completely trust a welded arm
Right, that's the one I was thinking of.

Good god, what. terrible website.
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Heim only? Looks like it would take some work to use a TRE.
 
Nice!

What was turnaround?

Are you going to have to mess with your pitman length, moving the attachment in toward the turn axis?
 
Looks legit, front hole can be used to make the arm double shear to the knuckle? I’ve got a build coming down the pipeline and he has one of these 60s he wants to use.
 
Nice!

What was turnaround?

Are you going to have to mess with your pitman length, moving the attachment in toward the turn axis?
3 weeks including shipping. about what was posted on web. robot communication updated.

No, stock pitman is ok. after testing the inner hole is a good fit. uses 95% of steering box range.
Looks legit, front hole can be used to make the arm double shear to the knuckle? I’ve got a build coming down the pipeline and he has one of these 60s he wants to use.
I don't think so, best to ask Sky directly. The outer hole looks to be out farther than stock
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Now drag link is quite flat. Even with track bar in flattest position it's not enough. Test drive confirmed bad bump steer. Have to extend the fame and/or axle brackets to dial it in. Looks like it will clear frame when at bump on pass side.
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I extended the axle side track bar bracket to get bump steer eliminated. Track bar and drag link are now both at 2*.
The high steer arm allowed track bar to level out by 5.5"

Happy with machine work quality, turn around time and communication from Sky offroad.
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I'm surprised you had bump steer with how close those angles were :confused:

My setup is going to be shit haha. Going to have to figure something out....:laughing:
 
/AussieVoice/That's not a bumpsteer, THIS is a bumpsteer!/

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(you can see my drop stock trackbar peeking out the bottom)

My wife always says I have low standards- seems fine to me!

Snake, you're way down the polishing a BJ road- why stick with it over a 05+ axle? Mission creep? (trying to decide which way to go, myself.)
 
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I looked for SD60 for a long time and couldn't find a good deal. $1200-1500 with crap gears.
So I bought my whole drivetrain as a package from a long time buddy who owns driven auto parts in phx. 460, c6, 205, 60/10.25 with 4.10s so no need to re-gear.
I like the old school bearing and 8x6.5 wheel choices. It is stout enough for my application.
 
The earlier BJ axles use basically the same knuckle and joints as the 99-04, but 8x6.5 and not UB. I have heard very little issues with knuckles breaking. I believe there are eliminators out now for the tops too. I picked up my BJ60 for $200, back before 05+ were cheap and supported. While I agree that they are stronger, the cost to swap, for me, isnt worth it.
 
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Now drag link is quite flat. Even with track bar in flattest position it's not enough. Test drive confirmed bad bump steer. Have to extend the fame and/or axle brackets to dial it in. Looks like it will clear frame when at bump on pass side.
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What size rims and what back spacing? Trying to figure out if this will work with my H2 rims they have pretty deep backspacing.
 
From reading I did weld-on it not the best way to go for a rig that see highway speeds.
I was planning to do weld on as well for my tow rig I'm swapping an '09 F350 SD60 into. Is that unwise? I'm confident in my welding ability/machine....but is this something better left to drilling and tapping the factory knuckle (or going to something like the double shear arm made by American Iron)?
 
I was planning to do weld on as well for my tow rig I'm swapping an '09 F350 SD60 into. Is that unwise? I'm confident in my welding ability/machine....but is this something better left to drilling and tapping the factory knuckle (or going to something like the double shear arm made by American Iron)?
Personally I’ve seen enough pics on social media of them broken I would pass. I’d either go with weaver fab. Or MoFab I’m running his setup for 99-04 in double shear
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Personally I’ve seen enough pics on social media of them broken I would pass. I’d either go with weaver fab. Or MoFab I’m running his setup for 99-04 in double shear
What's breaking? It's a cast steel knuckle from the factory, so weldable....

Does MoFab have a website? All I've found via search is an IG account.
 
What's breaking? It's a cast steel knuckle from the factory, so weldable....

Does MoFab have a website? All I've found via search is an IG account.
From what I’ve seen the weld fails. I agree it’s weld able but there are better solutions.

I connected with him through Instagram.
 
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