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High Mileage Hemi Engines

dirtybird said:
100% get that but you can't keep it manually out of overdrive. If I could it would be way easier to keep it in the sweet spot as far as rpms go.
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Newer model stuff I guess? My 03 (2500) just shifted into "D" instead of "OD". I've ridden in a few late models but never driven one.

:confused:
 
dirtybird said:
No option for it. Its first second or drive.
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Oh fuuuuck that. :shaking:

I actually loved towing with my old hemi, did multiple cross country wheeling trips towing 6500lbs no problem. Just let it scream all day. But if I was stuck in OD, I would have bricked the gas pedal and ran that thing off a cliff.

I did not know this. Thanks for the info. *crosses Dodge off possible next used truck list
 
[486] said:
hilarious

someone on here was saying they mushed bondo into the rust holes and then got a "pass" even though the bondo wasn't even cured
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That kinda shit is SOP in inspection states.

Duct tape over the rotted out wheel arches so it's not "sharp" is another one.
 
dirtybird said:
100% get that but you can't keep it manually out of overdrive. If I could it would be way easier to keep it in the sweet spot as far as rpms go.
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They have 2 OD's. Tow mode keeps it out of the second one(5th) and mine rarely shift to the first one(4th). I have 3.73 axle ratios. It likes to stay in 3rd and scream along at about 2800-3000rpm. It took me a long time figure out that it is happier there. Really the only time I can get it to shift into 4th is if I'm drafting a semi or going down a hill for a while. My camper weighs about 7k but is a big sail of course and my Jeep/trailer combo is about 7500-8000lbs.
 
VSLHNNT.jpg
 
45acp said:
Oh fuuuuck that. :shaking:

I actually loved towing with my old hemi, did multiple cross country wheeling trips towing 6500lbs no problem. Just let it scream all day. But if I was stuck in OD, I would have bricked the gas pedal and ran that thing off a cliff.

I did not know this. Thanks for the info. *crosses Dodge off possible next used truck list
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Newer models have the + and - buttons to change gears and they will stay in that gear unless you do something extravagant. My '18 has the buttons on the column shifter, newer ones with the knob have the buttons on the steering wheel.
 
Elwenil said:
Newer models have the + and - buttons to change gears and they will stay in that gear unless you do something extravagant. My '18 has the buttons on the column shifter, newer ones with the knob have the buttons on the steering wheel.
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Same with my 15, and it has a tow/haul mode that actually works.
 
I put 180,000 on my 07 megacab 1500. Exhaust manifold studs twice. Ball joints once, u-joints in drive shaft once, brake job twice. Fairly bullet proof vehicle in my opinion. Then I got a 2014 half ton. I put 120,000 on it. The fuel sending unit went out on it, exhaust manifold studs one time. No other issues other than brakes lasted 40,000 miles compared to twice that on the mega cab. I now have a 2019 2500 6.4 hemi with the 8 speed.

I haven't had any issues with the hemi's other than the freaken exhaust manifold studs.
 
242212300_10158889951313705_5604156107924864238_n.jpg



392 Chrysler Hemi

The 392 raised-deck engine released in 1957 had a 4.00 in (101.6 mm) bore and 3.906 in (99.21 mm) stroke. The actual displacement is 392.67 cu in (6,435 cc). The deck height, at 10.87 in (276.1 mm), was 1⁄2 in (13 mm) taller than that of the previous blocks. Because its deck was taller, the heads were cast with wider intake ports so that earlier manifolds could be used with the new heads on the new taller block. For 1958, Chrysler offered the 392 in two configurations: 325 bhp (242 kW) with 9.25:1 compression and 345 bhp (257 kW) with 10:1 compression, both with a single four-barrel carburetor. A dual four-barrel version of the 392 available in the 1957-58 Chrysler 300C & 300D cars was rated at 375 bhp (280 kW); the 300D, and some marine and industrial engines, used a (now rare) adjustable rocker.[9] An extremely rare option available on the 1958 300D was Bendix "Electrojector" fuel injection, with which the 392 was rated at 390 bhp (291 kW). Due to reliability problems with the primitive onboard computer which controlled the injection system, however, 15 of the 16 300D cars built with the fuel injection option were recalled and retrofitted with carburetors.[10]
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Jackie Treehorn said:
VSLHNNT.jpg
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45acp said:
Oh fuuuuck that. :shaking:

I actually loved towing with my old hemi, did multiple cross country wheeling trips towing 6500lbs no problem. Just let it scream all day. But if I was stuck in OD, I would have bricked the gas pedal and ran that thing off a cliff.

I did not know this. Thanks for the info. *crosses Dodge off possible next used truck list
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Just go a little newer. My 16 PW will let you lock out any gear you want.

70k miles and it works well. We’ll see how it holds up long term.
 
So the consensus is this truck isn’t a huge turd and manifold studs are a problem. No different than pos LS manifold bolts. Guess I’ll see how bad the cancer is and assess from there
 
grumpy356 said:
Stupid question...

So in the OLD days of racing, you could machine a second spark plug.
It was one of the beauty of a hemispherical combustion chamber design.
Do people still do that? And if not, why are they so proud of having a hemispherical combustion chamber???
Hemi.jpg
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it's done to vintage bikes since all of them, other than flatheads have full hemi chambers...Is the top head in the photo supposed to be a Gen1 hemi because it ain't
 
larboc said:
392 was available in a Desoto?
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No, just the last few years of Chrysler, the last year being 58...But all the Gen1 hemis are similar but parts are not all interchangeable from 241 cube on up.
 
95steel said:
I haven't had any issues with the hemi's other than the freaken exhaust manifold studs.
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Maybe a fluke, but i fixed mine (03) with headers. Bought with 80k and needed studs, at around 130k it needed 'em again... that time i did some nice mid length JBA headers and never had another problem. Sold it with 240k on it, new owner totalled it with over 300k... still not ticking.
 
45acp said:
Maybe a fluke, but i fixed mine (03) with headers. Bought with 80k and needed studs, at around 130k it needed 'em again... that time i did some nice mid length JBA headers and never had another problem. Sold it with 240k on it, new owner totalled it with over 300k... still not ticking.
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I put full length ARH on the 14. Never had another issue (aside from constant regrets for not getting the ceramic coated ones, towing the camper would get toasty melting plastic smells).

On my 19, when it happens I want to put ceramic coated shorty's on it.
 
'07 2500 4x4 w/ 183k. I got it at 171k and inherited a broken left rear door harness, non-working tailgate mechanism, a few spent dash bulbs, an inop AC system, and a rotted M12000 winch motor. I don't have a Power Wagon, but I do have the PW winch & cradle mount. The only unplanned repair I had to make was the starter failed. I have broken exhaust studs, but haven't made time to fix 'em yet.

My bed outer wheel arches were rotted, as is the tailgate. I replaced the bed with a color-matched unit from Texas. The outer door edges haven't popped, yet, but the inside seams are swollen. It might be time to grind, encapsulate, and cover with bedliner or something.
 
Eman Resu said:
'07 2500 4x4 w/ 183k. I got it at 171k and inherited a broken left rear door harness, non-working tailgate mechanism, a few spent dash bulbs, an inop AC system, and a rotted M12000 winch motor. I don't have a Power Wagon, but I do have the PW winch & cradle mount. The only unplanned repair I had to make was the starter failed. I have broken exhaust studs, but haven't made time to fix 'em yet.

My bed outer wheel arches were rotted, as is the tailgate. I replaced the bed with a color-matched unit from Texas. The outer door edges haven't popped, yet, but the inside seams are swollen. It might be time to grind, encapsulate, and cover with bedliner or something.
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fluid film is the tits for inside doors and hatches.
lays in there forever. stays wet, never fails.
 
95steel said:
I put full length ARH on the 14. Never had another issue (aside from constant regrets for not getting the ceramic coated ones, towing the camper would get toasty melting plastic smells).

On my 19, when it happens I want to put ceramic coated shorty's on it.
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Side note-

5.7 hemi with real headers, a 3.5" chambered muffler, and one of those weird corkscrew Magnaflow 3.5" mufflers in front that you added on because the chambered muffler was too loud... at 5000+rpm pulling a trailer up a mountain in Colorado @75mph passing everyone, sounds like vikings storming the gates of heaven to steal shit and take back to Valhalla.

If i had money to burn, I'd buy a 3rd gen 5.7 and replicate that exhaust just to drive around and listen to.

:laughing:
 
45acp said:
at 5000+rpm pulling a trailer up a mountain in Colorado @75mph passing everyone, sounds like vikings storming the gates of heaven to steal shit and take back to Valhalla.
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Sounds good to me. :flipoff2:

For what it's worth, my '18 2500 with a non-MDS 5.7L and Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back sounds fucking awesome. It does drone on some hill pulls but a gear or speed change takes care of it. It is a bit on the "too loud" side, but provides more smiles per mile than any other mod I've done and the Hemi at full scream through those pipes is nothing short of glorious. :usa:
 
Elwenil said:
Sounds good to me. :flipoff2:

For what it's worth, my '18 2500 with a non-MDS 5.7L and Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back sounds fucking awesome. It does drone on some hill pulls but a gear or speed change takes care of it. It is a bit on the "too loud" side, but provides more smiles per mile than any other mod I've done and the Hemi at full scream through those pipes is nothing short of glorious. :usa:
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This is why I did the weird moroso post hole digger. It kept all of the balls at high rpm, but eliminated the drone just driving normal. Basically it kept the ungodly scream, but cut it back enough at 3000rpm to be comfortable on the freeway with a trailer in 1:1.
 
95steel said:
I put full length ARH on the 14. Never had another issue (aside from constant regrets for not getting the ceramic coated ones, towing the camper would get toasty melting plastic smells).

On my 19, when it happens I want to put ceramic coated shorty's on it.
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One of the many reasons I dislike CA.

I’d love some headers on my 18pw.

On topic I have the 6.4. 31k miles with no issues so far. Hoping it stays that way.
 
Is this where I can jump in and say my '01 360 Magnum is tired out. Hemi swap it or 383 stroker out of it?
 
Sold my 05 hemi Daytona Ram with 290,xxx miles on it a few months back. Was a general use truck/ tow pig. Changed oil every 10k miles or so and beat on it pretty often. I really miss that truck, not a bit of issues and wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
 
Have an 07 1500 I inherited from my mom with 230k on it 5 years ago. It has 306k now. She had a goal of keeping it until 500k and had done every bit of main tent at the dealership possible. I don’t daily it, have a few other trucks I drive as well. But it’s been great with the exception of a few hiccups. Fuel pump died on me once and have basically just done maintenance minor repairs. Has some rust on the body now. But the interior is fucking mint. My mom weighed may lie 110 lbs so the drivers seat doesn’t have the typical ripped cover and smushed cushion. Although, Geno’s garage has replacements for both of those now. It drives great and honestly from riding inside of it, you can’t tell how many miles are on it.
 
Bump for laughs! That blue truck is still for sale! I'd maybe pay $1000 for it since its been sitting for two years now more or less. A nice 2015 has popped up for sale with only 170k miles on it and it's 99% cleaner and all highway... basically travelled 50K miles in the first year of ownership!

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I am considering this one... I'm going to watch it for a bit and see if it drops some more due to high fuel prices here
 
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