What's new
By:
Filters

Help me with two post lift install issues

How to proceed with lift install, you can choose two

  • Repour under lift

    Votes: 2 33.3%

  • Send it Centered

    Votes: 4 66.7%

  • Send it Off Center

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Rotary Pump

    Votes: 2 33.3%

  • Vevor Pump

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    6
jeepyj

jeepyj

Middlesex NY
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
57
Messages
442
Loc
Middlesex NY
I picked up a used Rotary SPOA9 lift a couple years ago for around a grand and the Ford project put off the installation until now. I now have two issues that I know of that I'd like some opinions about.

First, there's a crack in the concrete floor. The slab is 4" thick with pex for radiant flooring. 4000 PSI mix with fibers. There is a 4' wide section where they left out the pex and insulation so it's 6" thick there for the lift. That is where it cracked. The photos show the 4 foot wide section in blue tape. (Found it with the fire departments IR camera which worked great BTW) The crack has been there about six years of the seven that the garage has been there. The paper template shows a couple options of placement between the crack and the transition from 6" to 4" . The Rotary instructions say Hilti anchors, which I am using. "minimum distance you can install them to an edge, expansion joint, or abandoned anchor hole is 4-1/2". Can I call a crack an expansion joint? I feel like installing it centered is the better option. The anchor will be at least 6 inches fron the crack. probably closer to eight. I don't want to cut it all out and repour a new section, obviously. So the options are . . . Repour, send it centered, send it off centered.
1.jpg

2.jpg


Next issue. A mouse got into the motor and chewed on the wires and windings. I fugure it'll last about a second before the magic smoke comes out.
3.jpg


I can get a replacement Rotary motor/pump assembly for about a grand or a vevor pump/assembly for around $200. Never heard of Vevor until now and it sounds like chinese crap. but will it work. Anybody have any experience with these pumps?
4.JPG

5.JPG


help?

TIA

.
 
I have ZERO experience here...but my OPINION is to go cheap pump and see how long it lasts (maybe even take yours apart in the meantime and reinsulate the wires).

As fa as the crack and plate, span the crack with the plate
 
So the thicker section is a strip that spans across where you're putting the lift? Not just "pads" at the lift posts? And just fiber? No reinforcing mesh or rebar?

I'd be more inclined to center the posts over the thickened slab than to try to move them away from the crack and toward the edge of the thickened portion.

I've seen Vevor explode onto the scene in the last couple years for just about anything and everything: TOUGH TOOLS, HALF PRICE | VEVOR US

They're obviously pulling from many many Chinese manufacturers and putting their name on the stuff. I've seen pretty varied reviews on their stuff. I agree with the above on seeing if you can re-insulate the wires.
 
PAToyota said:
So the thicker section is a strip that spans across where you're putting the lift? Not just "pads" at the lift posts? And just fiber? No reinforcing mesh or rebar?

I'd be more inclined to center the posts over the thickened slab than to try to move them away from the crack and toward the edge of the thickened portion.

I've seen Vevor explode onto the scene in the last couple years for just about anything and everything: TOUGH TOOLS, HALF PRICE | VEVOR US

They're obviously pulling from many many Chinese manufacturers and putting their name on the stuff. I've seen pretty varied reviews on their stuff. I agree with the above on seeing if you can re-insulate the wires.
Click to expand...
The thicker section is a 4' x 12' section that is centered on the 9' overhead door. Should have gone 10' on the doors.

There is 4x4 or 6x6 wire mesh that I neglected to mention. They tied the pex to it. My memory doesn't work and I lost all of my pictures but the metal detector says there is metal in the 6" portion as well. IDK if it's rebar.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
That's fuckall right there!

Buy a can of Brush-On Electrical tape and paint up some insulation back on those wires.
Click to expand...
and the windings? I suppose I'm not out anything if it goes up once and THEN lets the smoke out.


This part makes me question your answer
“Most people are shocked when they find out how bad an electrician I am..”

:lmao:

.
 
jeepyj said:
and the windings? I suppose I'm not out anything if it goes up once and THEN lets the smoke out.


This part makes me question your answer
“Most people are shocked when they find out how bad an electrician I am..”

:lmao:

.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I mostly just fake it.

You could always drizzle the proper varnish on them, likely the mice didn't move the wires, just got the coating off, so since there's still the same clearance between wires the varnish should flow into the voids.

It's at least worth running it, what's the worst that could happen?:homer:
 
jeepyj said:
There is 4x4 or 6x6 wire mesh that I neglected to mention. They tied the pex to it.
Click to expand...
Unless they put it on chairs, that's probably all laying at the bottom and not doing much to reinforce things.

Fiber gives localized reinforcing, but too many people try to make it replace mesh and rebar. For precast concrete, they're actually getting into fiberglass mesh and rebar - mostly because they have fewer issues with rust stains coming through and also to reduce weight for transportation.
 
Check FBMP. There are at least 2-3 lift pump setups for sale near me, guess they got removed from lifts that were taken out of service.

Vevor is just harbor freight without a storefront
 
add triangle braces so the fore-aft footprint is bigger than the fore-aft span of the arms and add a top plate if it’s not already a top plate lift, bolt it to your slab with no fucks given and rock out.
 
crumpled paper bag template
bare wires

going to use 16 penny nails for the anchors next?

please video, I have high hopes
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
crumpled paper bag template
Click to expand...
jeepyj Speaking of templates, I wouldn't use one at all other than for getting the lift location figured out.
Stand up the columns, bolt them together, get them exactly where you want them and drill right through the holes, that worked really well for the spoa7 I put up last year.
Walk behind forklift makes it a one man operation.
SDS hammerdrill is the way to go for drilling holes.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
jeepyj Speaking of templates, I wouldn't use one at all other than for getting the lift location figured out.
Stand up the columns, bolt them together, get them exactly where you want them and drill right through the holes, that worked really well for the spoa7 I put up last year.
Walk behind forklift makes it a one man operation.
SDS hammerdrill is the way to go for drilling holes.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
The paper template was only for visual simulation. It was easier to move around while we figured out the best location for the lift. We were locating the radiant flooring with the IR camera and trying to avoid the crack at the same time.

I'm going to do like you said less the forklift. I have a tractor, floor jack and engine hoist. I think I can do something with those options available.

A friend lent me a Milwaukee cordless hammer drill. I haven't taken it out of the box yet.
 
jeepyj said:
A friend lent me a Milwaukee cordless hammer drill. I haven't taken it out of the box yet.
Click to expand...
What size are the fasteners?

Cordless hammer drill maxes out at 1/4 inch? Maybe 3/8 in concrete, but you're not gonna have much fun.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
What size are the fasteners?

Cordless hammer drill maxes out at 1/4 inch? Maybe 3/8 in concrete, but you're not gonna have much fun.
Click to expand...
Huh? Even my m12 can do a 3/4 hole easily in concrete.
 
jeepyj said:
The paper template was only for visual simulation. It was easier to move around while we figured out the best location for the lift. We were locating the radiant flooring with the IR camera and trying to avoid the crack at the same time.

I'm going to do like you said less the forklift. I have a tractor, floor jack and engine hoist. I think I can do something with those options available.
Click to expand...
That should work.
I set one upright, tied it off loosely to the trusses, setup the other, tied it off as well, then bolted the cross member in snugly, adjusted to get them lined up square/centered on the door, drilled/anchored one side down, leveled it, then drilled/anchored the other side.
I did one anchor, checked alignment, did the anchor across from the first one, then worked my way around.
I did punch all the way through the slab, so if needed I could pound an anchor down into the slab.
jeepyj said:
A friend lent me a Milwaukee cordless hammer drill. I haven't taken it out of the box yet.
Click to expand...
Is it a hammer drill with a regular chuck on it, or a SDS one with a quick change?
If it struggles too much, I have a SDS hammer drill with a 3/4" bit that you can borrow, could meet you at Runnings.
One other thing I did, my lift has cuts through the side of each hole to the outside. I set my shop vac with the hose pushed up to that slot and ran it while drilling, that took care of 90% of the dust and all the airborne dust.
I also blew each hole out with shop air before I put the anchor in.

One thing I wish I had done, on the first few I pounded the anchors in with the tapered tip of the drive anchors above the nut, then started tightening.
On the later ones, once the nut was all the way down, I backed it off so there were 2-3 threads showing in the nut and then tapped it in and then started tightening.
That ended up with a little less anchor sticking out above the nut at the end.
I still had to trim the anchors where the arms swing flush with the nuts as they were hitting when the arms were all the way down.

Aaron Z
 
Sounds like good advice. Drill update: Buddy told me he had the cordless Milwaukee. I didn't even look when he handed me the red box this morning. I just went out to the truck. It's a corded $40 Bauer from HF. LOL.
 
Ended up getting the Bosch bulldog extreme at Lowe's but now I have it forever. It's a decent hammer drill that I can also use to knock rust off stuff. Centered the lift and everything went according to plan. Thanks for the help.
received_841404350891724.jpeg
 
I have had the same lift since 2018, picked it up used also. IT's been a good unit
 
jeepyj said:
I just sent a little red insulating lacquer in there and then the liquid electrical tape like he said and it seems to be working.
Click to expand...
Worst case, send the motor to Whitmers in Seneca Falls, whatever Auburn Armature is calling themselves now or Northstar in Macedon/Rochester and have them rebuild it.

Aaron Z
 
Man, lifts aint a joke, Id do it right.

Why did it crack? Did you have rebar under it?
 
God I hope that's in the 3rd world. There's no excuse for anyone literate to be doing that shit. :laughing:
 
I'm not sure I'd even use a lift if I had one.
I can't work overhead much without bad back pain and so used to working on the ground.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh