Help me spend money on a Tig

[CarterKraft]

thats showing that you want it set at 2 for most all welding. at 3 is where its 'balanced'.

the bareat 7 is its suggested setting for ac tig. running at 3.5-4 is way to low, i try to be 7 or above unless im trying to ball my tungsten. clean, wirebrush, actone, your joint... and leave your balance set to no lower than 7 while learning. you should only be forced to go lower than 7 on old material impregnated with contamination.

while learning, at first arc bring your heavy up slowly and watch the puddle, let it clean and get shiney, before you ramp up to weld heat.

Thanks, I have some more to do on that storage box so i'll try your suggestions.

 

[tracyb]

To those of you that do this for a living:

For the average hobbyist how much do the bells and whistles really matter?

I've got a Lincoln Square wave 175 and it has got me through plenty of AL projects and I never felt limited by it. Not one knob on it other than heat- which is really nice when you are learning so you don't get distracted.

I am a hack at best but for a basic hobby machine it seems pretty capable to me. Example of some of my work and what I use it for- would I seriously benefit from a machine upgrade?

for the average hobby guy the bells and whistle usually do more harm than good. just like i was saying above, leave it a 7 until you know better, you dont need any thing beyond what you have until you know you need it.


cartercraft having his machine set to 3.5-4 was roasting his tungsten and making a ton of heat at the torch. i would be horribly frustrated, have to use a massive size tungsten, and deal with terrible arc wander at those settings. and not learning the right way.




you can be a good welder on almost any machine, all the dials just make it a fraction better, if you know what they do.


teaching some one to drive a stick, you tell them they must clutch every shift. (like a baseline setting) by the time they can make a shift without you dont need to tell how, they understand the process (why most dont spend much time explaining why settings are where they are, if your good enough to need them, they dont need to be explained)

 

[arse_sidewards]

For the average hobbyist how much do the bells and whistles really matter?

They don't. You never do enough of the same thing to get the settings well enough optimized for a particular job for that stuff to matter.

The jobs wind up done before you can tease out the difference between "good enough to do the job" and "100% dialed".

 

[gt1guy]

Fair enough.
I trust you and value your opinion on this.
I have never used a pulser or inverter machine and they seem to be the bees knees, just from videos etc.

I struggle with getting results from the AC balance knob but I also have a bad habit of not prepping aluminum like I should...

Any suggestions on a baseline for the AC balance on AL?

Prepping the aluminum is the most important part of welding it. There's no knob on any machine that can save you from a bad prep job.

 

[CarterKraft]

Prepping the aluminum is the most important part of welding it. There's no knob on any machine that can save you from a bad prep job.

I bought some acetone wash bottles, stainless brushes and cup wheels so I can do a better job.

 

[tracyb]

Prepping the aluminum is the most important part of welding it. There's no knob on any machine that can save you from a bad prep job.

I bought some acetone wash bottles, stainless brushes and cup wheels so I can do a better job.

and thats the right way to do it. super clean. (and dont forget to keep your Stainless toothbrushes seperate from the ones you use on steel.)

then once you figure out what your doing, doing it the right way, you start to cut corners to save overall project time. dont skip the steps of learning, in school you have to pass the more basic classes before you hit calculus, and even then calc 1 comes before calc 2.

i haven't used acetone on aluminum in years. and some of those knobs can save you from a little bit of not great prep. but 100% nothing saves you from bad prep. most often anymore i use aluma-bright and a hotsy.



also CarterKraft, i'm not a big fan of cup wheels on aluminum, or stainless.... unless they are in a cordless drill and on low speed. 'cleaning' with high speed like a fast drill, or grinder, isn't preferred. it will get rid of the oxidation layer, and that helps allot, but more importantly it wont remove the surface contaminants. in stead it smears then into the base metal. for aluminum work i often use what i've only ever known as a 'meat axe'. a carbide saw blade on a grinder. it cleanly removes/ grinds aluminum with out smearing the surface contaminants in. it will also rip you open in a heart beat!! i've got the scars to prove it. and have learned i only use them on air powered grinders and only well guarded.

my local weld supply keeps them on hand, but behind the counter, dont any idiot removing his fingers...

i thnk the pics backwards


semi relevant ramble;
welding is humbling, because there is no googled 'hack' to get on the fast track, its putting the work in. its the only way to get good. (and i'm king of skip the beginning at get to the end, cliff notes are better than the book. i think thats why i went after welding i couldn't figure out the easy way. and loosing my ass on a job is the best learning i've ever had. and still cheaper than all the school i paid, other people paid for. scholarships. All worthwhile education costs. and i'm not asking for loan forgiveness for a BA degree) i'm still learning everyday, or at the very minimum being reminded of past lessons i've learned the hard way.

today i underestimated a Hitachi 470 bucket rebuild, lucky me i've learned before to never hard bid one of these jobs. gave the owner notice just now, ive set my own standard that anything over 20% increase in estimate i notify for approval to move forward. still no split the difference bs, i'm not even done with demo and we're over 20ovrEstimate. yikes... gonna be around a $10k rebuild... panzers would probably have done int a day or 2, gonna take me at least 4.

 

[4Eyedturd]

Tracyb ever tried a carbide bit for aluminum for a slightly less dangerous method? I consider myself a novice welder but lots of cocksuckers at work come to me to weld stuff, I’m always trying to get better because I enjoy it so keep on with your knowledge

 

[tracyb]

Tracyb ever tried a carbide bit for aluminum for a slightly less dangerous method? I consider myself a novice welder but lots of cocksuckers at work come to me to weld stuff, I’m always trying to get better because I enjoy it so keep on with your knowledge

carbide bit? like for a die grinder/ router?


i use all sorts of carbide router/ die grinder bits. blades/ saws etc.


the danger factor sucks, thats why i only use the in the right air powered stuff. early on when i was younger and dumber, like 3yrs ago, i put a meat axe blade in an m18 grinder... and i quickly had a nice gash, then circle scar to the left of the belly button. i was really afraid to look down when it happended, thought i might see guts spill out. it was a good one. thank god all i saw was the chunky fat gristle. a little superglue, then some paper towels and some tape, i was back to work.
i'm the only earner for my fam. risk/ reward i think about all the time. i'm often around situation that could put me out for a year, or life.

 

[CarterKraft]

and thats the right way to do it. super clean. (and dont forget to keep your Stainless toothbrushes seperate from the ones you use on steel.)

then once you figure out what your doing, doing it the right way, you start to cut corners to save overall project time. dont skip the steps of learning, in school you have to pass the more basic classes before you hit calculus, and even then calc 1 comes before calc 2.

i haven't used acetone on aluminum in years. and some of those knobs can save you from a little bit of not great prep. but 100% nothing saves you from bad prep. most often anymore i use aluma-bright and a hotsy.



also CarterKraft, i'm not a big fan of cup wheels on aluminum, or stainless.... unless they are in a cordless drill and on low speed. 'cleaning' with high speed like a fast drill, or grinder, isn't preferred. it will get rid of the oxidation layer, and that helps allot, but more importantly it wont remove the surface contaminants. in stead it smears then into the base metal. for aluminum work i often use what i've only ever known as a 'meat axe'. a carbide saw blade on a grinder. it cleanly removes/ grinds aluminum with out smearing the surface contaminants in. it will also rip you open in a heart beat!! i've got the scars to prove it. and have learned i only use them on air powered grinders and only well guarded.

my local weld supply keeps them on hand, but behind the counter, dont any idiot removing his fingers...

i thnk the pics backwards


semi relevant ramble;
welding is humbling, because there is no googled 'hack' to get on the fast track, its putting the work in. its the only way to get good. (and i'm king of skip the beginning at get to the end, cliff notes are better than the book. i think thats why i went after welding i couldn't figure out the easy way. and loosing my ass on a job is the best learning i've ever had. and still cheaper than all the school i paid, other people paid for. scholarships. All worthwhile education costs. and i'm not asking for loan forgiveness for a BA degree) i'm still learning everyday, or at the very minimum being reminded of past lessons i've learned the hard way.

today i underestimated a Hitachi 470 bucket rebuild, lucky me i've learned before to never hard bid one of these jobs. gave the owner notice just now, ive set my own standard that anything over 20% increase in estimate i notify for approval to move forward. still no split the difference bs, i'm not even done with demo and we're over 20ovrEstimate. yikes... gonna be around a $10k rebuild... panzers would probably have done int a day or 2, gonna take me at least 4.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Looking at the balance label last night it makes sense both the Tig/DCEN and AC are green, the same color as the rectangle at the 7 mark on the balance dial... The gray rectangle is the same color as the DCEP selector....

The problem I have is I do this shit so infrequently I forget all the setup the next time I have a project. I will create a cheat sheet this time and put it in the drawer.

So this "Meat Axe" is a little wild. How do you use that? Can you grind with it? Use it flat side down like a grinder, use it on edge like a cutting wheel? That seems sketchy as hell on .080" sheet? Regular sketchy on 1/2"
I am interested though because I know what you are talking about with the smearing. I have seen that before on other projects.

CUTTER MEAT AXE 100MM 20T 4.4MM 16MM BORE TUNGSTEN TIPDefault Title

Iva Premium Quality saw Blades for Portable Machines. these Blades have a Hardened Tempered Alloy Steel Body with Large Tip Size for many Re-sharpens. these Blades are Designed to

www.weldingsupply.com.au

I welded some 2" steel tubing to some 1/4" base plates last night for some architectural spot light poles. With the confidence you gave me and the balance on 7, I made quick work of it. And it could be the addition of the gas lens but I had no problem getting excellent color in the welds, vs the blasted gray's I have had before. I like it hot... but I quickly found that problematic on stainless and thinner mild steels so I have focused on controlling the heat better instead of shock and awe.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Don't discount transformer machines. My favorite welder for aluminum has always been a 350 syncro. I've run everything from dynasty 350 to Lincoln 175 to an htp221. Yes you have more options that are beneficial in certain situations and the power consumption is lower on inverters. The transformers buttery smooth arc/wetout and lack of sensitivity to common imperfections that occur in regular fab work is excellent.

 

[tracyb]

i use the meat axe for cutting and grinding.

just have to take light passes, when you grab to much it catches and it hurts. for grinding i rest the blade guard on the material and make light passes on what needs removed. usually used on thicker stuff.

they also make grinding wheel for aluminum that dont load up.


you were weldiing steel with the balance at 7? should be at 2-3 where ever that box shows it. the greys on steel usually come because it too hot by the time you move on and has no gas coverage. on thing that can help is backing the weld joint with copper or aluminum to suck the heat out quicker.

 

[CarterKraft]

i use the meat axe for cutting and grinding.

just have to take light passes, when you grab to much it catches and it hurts. for grinding i rest the blade guard on the material and make light passes on what needs removed. usually used on thicker stuff.

they also make grinding wheel for aluminum that dont load up.


you were weldiing steel with the balance at 7? should be at 2-3 where ever that box shows it. the greys on steel usually come because it too hot by the time you move on and has no gas coverage. on thing that can help is backing the weld joint with copper or aluminum to suck the heat out quicker.

So am I supposed to be DCEN or DCEP for mild steel?

 

[Weasel]

semi relevant ramble;
welding is humbling, because there is no googled 'hack' to get on the fast track, its putting the work in. its the only way to get good.

no doubt, I like to try and weld. They are okay but I don't do it nearly enough to remember it. I've had a few fair but nothing in a critical spot and recently. But I seldom post an pics of my poor welds, just learned it's something I won't be Instagram famous on.

Anyone use the cem sharp for tungsten? Any tips on how to keep it from blocking up the gas screen?

 

[tracyb]

So am I supposed to be DCEN or DCEP for mild steel?

even i google that one.

never remember cuz i operate most my machine from muscle memory. put me on a defferent machine i actually have to think about it or google shit


i wouldn't consider my self an expert at all. i've welded for work in the past. but when i started my own biz 8yrs ago (i was 28yo) it was trim work, and cabinet building, i thought that was my best chance at making money.
i got tired of home owners and was miserable. couldn't make hardly any money. at the time all i had to weld with was a 120v homedepot bought welder. then 6yrs ago, a buddy asked me to extend a peterbuilt tractor- turn it into a dump truck, i agree'd to that job for $35/hr and had to borrow money from the guy to buy a welder i could use. since that week its all i have done. i've been making enough that at minimum, since that first weld job i have spent $100k/yr for more tools/ bigger shop. sometimes double or more than that.

every year i learn more and make more $$$,

it blows my mind what learning all this has done for my life. since i started have had 2 kids, wife is now stay at home, have my dream shop (and it already feel to small so i have another 30x40 shop going up) i try to send my wife and kids away some where for a week a month so i can work, and i always take a 5-10days a month off, sometimes more, and we all go some where. i schedule my days that i work work for 8hrs, after 4pm i still work but kids are allowed in the shop. only 3 and 4yo and already have their own work stations and tool boxes. growing up we had a drawer with random tools thats it, i got my first socket set as a senior in high school! i get excited about welding, i love it!

i figure it out more every day, i only just figured out to tell my supplier reps that i'm only available when my wifes out of town. that way since she's not making me lunch they bring me a sandwich and i dont have to leave the shop early tomorrow morning i'm taking the wife and kids to the airport, theyre headed to Missouri to hang out with my moms side of the fam. and i got my first sandwich coming at noon. gotta figure the little things too.

 

[Brad]

even i google that one.

never remember cuz i operate most my machine from muscle memory. put me on a defferent machine i actually have to think about it or google shit


i wouldn't consider my self an expert at all. i've welded for work in the past. but when i started my own biz 8yrs ago (i was 28yo) it was trim work, and cabinet building, i thought that was my best chance at making money.
i got tired of home owners and was miserable. couldn't make hardly any money. at the time all i had to weld with was a 120v homedepot bought welder. then 6yrs ago, a buddy asked me to extend a peterbuilt tractor- turn it into a dump truck, i agree'd to that job for $35/hr and had to borrow money from the guy to buy a welder i could use. since that week its all i have done. i've been making enough that at minimum, since that first weld job i have spent $100k/yr for more tools/ bigger shop. sometimes double or more than that.

every year i learn more and make more $$$,

it blows my mind what learning all this has done for my life. since i started have had 2 kids, wife is now stay at home, have my dream shop (and it already feel to small so i have another 30x40 shop going up) i try to send my wife and kids away some where for a week a month so i can work, and i always take a 5-10days a month off, sometimes more, and we all go some where. i schedule my days that i work work for 8hrs, after 4pm i still work but kids are allowed in the shop. only 3 and 4yo and already have their own work stations and tool boxes. growing up we had a drawer with random tools thats it, i got my first socket set as a senior in high school! i get excited about welding, i love it!

i figure it out more every day, i only just figured out to tell my supplier reps that i'm only available when my wifes out of town. that way since she's not making me lunch they bring me a sandwich and i dont have to leave the shop early tomorrow morning i'm taking the wife and kids to the airport, theyre headed to Missouri to hang out with my moms side of the fam. and i got my first sandwich coming at noon. gotta figure the little things too.

Sounds like you got a great thing going😎

And the answer is DCEN for mild steel/stainless. 😄

When people start saying straight/reverse polarity is when I get mixed up.

 

[CarterKraft]

And the answer is DCEN for mild steel/stainless. 😄

When people start saying straight/reverse polarity is when I get mixed up.

Yeah so I "think" I was on DCEN/green icon. And I have had it wrong before and welding was not easy like it should be, had to really turn it up to get a puddle.

If it wasn't supposed to be on 7 I'd be really surprised because it welded like a dream.

 

[Brad]

Yeah so I "think" I was on DCEN/green icon. And I have had it wrong before and welding was not easy like it should be, had to really turn it up to get a puddle.

If it wasn't supposed to be on 7 I'd be really surprised because it welded like a dream.

I’m not at all familiar with your machine so I can’t say anything about the other settings

 

[CarterKraft]

This is my machine panel. I had it (I think) pointed to the left to DCEN. That label is green and the 7 mark on the balance is green.
If you switch it to DCEP to the right, that is gray icon and corresponds to the gray balance box at the 2 ish mark.
The "balanced welding" is at 3 like you suggest.

Mass confusion, can you tell

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Balance is irrelevant when welding dc. It only applies to the ac sine wave.

 

[CarterKraft]

Balance is irrelevant when welding dc. It only applies to the ac sine wave.

I think you are right, didn't doubt you, I'm just waay confused.
Heres the page from the manual.

 

[Brad]

This is my machine panel. I had it (I think) pointed to the left to DCEN. That label is green and the 7 mark on the balance is green.
If you switch it to DCEP to the right, that is gray icon and corresponds to the gray balance box at the 2 ish mark.
The "balanced welding" is at 3 like you suggest.

Mass confusion, can you tell

Ok at work I had a synchrowave 350 dx, it was about 10 years old. Yes DCEN(to the left) is for tig. DCEP(to the right) is for stick welding, hence the rod holder/stinger and welding rod symbol. I usually left it on the balanced welding setting unless I had super dirty aluminum. Then it would be on max cleaning. On the opposite end, if I needed more penetration than cleaning I would have it on that.

 

[gt1guy]

Ignore all the Dig stuff on the balance knob. That's for stick welding on DC. That knob serves two purposes, one as the balance on AC, and two as the DIG for DC stick.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

Sounds like you got a great thing going😎

And the answer is DCEN for mild steel/stainless. 😄

When people start saying straight/reverse polarity is when I get mixed up.

I remembered it by the electricity is coming 'strait' (-) (like the line representing the negative symbol) off the tungsten

 

[Provience]

turn down your post flow, 35 seconds is wasting gas like crazy unless you are welding on very thick stainless or aluminum. 2-5 seconds will cover most things, 10 if you really want to sit there for a while. once the puddle has cooled, you want the gas off.

 

[CarterKraft]

turn down your post flow, 35 seconds is wasting gas like crazy unless you are welding on very thick stainless or aluminum. 2-5 seconds will cover most things, 10 if you really want to sit there for a while. once the puddle has cooled, you want the gas off.

That's not actually my machine just a pic I found.
I run sub 10 usually cause I am not rich LOL.

too hot and terrible control I know. 1/4" base plate to 16ga tube.
I hope to get back on the aluminum this week.

 

[Provience]

That's not actually my machine just a pic I found.
I run sub 10 usually cause I am not rich LOL.

too hot and terrible control I know. 1/4" base plate to 16ga tube.
I hope to get back on the aluminum this week.

thick to thin is a bitch, doesn't look too hot except the very last dot, otherwise looks cold at the start and such. so long as you aren't undercutting the thin stuff, keep the heat up.

overall looks good sorry, i thought it was an actual picture of your control panel

 

[WESTOF7]

I bought the ck mt200 to run off my trailblazer/bobcat because the dynasty 400 is way too expensive to carry around. Good machine with pretty good accessories and CK is great to deal with for warranty and support.

I own a dynasty 400, syncrowave 350 and everlast 325ext for reference.

 

[CarterKraft]

I bought the ck mt200 to run off my trailblazer/bobcat because the dynasty 400 is way too expensive to carry around. Good machine with pretty good accessories and CK is great to deal with for warranty and support.

I own a dynasty 400, syncrowave 350 and everlast 325ext for reference.

Those little machines are super useful.
I really think I could do all my Tig work with that class machine.

 

[Landslide]

i use the meat axe for cutting and grinding.

just have to take light passes, when you grab to much it catches and it hurts. for grinding i rest the blade guard on the material and make light passes on what needs removed. usually used on thicker stuff.

they also make grinding wheel for aluminum that dont load up.


you were weldiing steel with the balance at 7? should be at 2-3 where ever that box shows it. the greys on steel usually come because it too hot by the time you move on and has no gas coverage. on thing that can help is backing the weld joint with copper or aluminum to suck the heat out quicker.

Blade guard? What’s that?

 

[tracyb]

Blade guard? What’s that?

right. new tools open box, remove weird thing that limits disc size then use...

then i had one of those carbide tipped flesh eaters tear into my beer gut... aptly named meat axe. guard please.

abrasives hurt when they bite but... i legit thought i was holding my intestines in as it tore thru my clothes like butter and started flinging bits of bloody flesh. i'm not much for safety stuff, its the only guard i have on a grinder. and i very rarely wear more than my squints. weld gloves sleeve.. ppe? never heard of her.

meat axe means biznuss!