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Heavy equipment repair guys?

ThePanzerFuhrer

The Rock Breaker God
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I have a transmission gasket that is leaking. Just one small spot. I’m not pulling transmission to replace that gasket. If I do it’s getting rebuilt and don’t want to spend 15-20k on that. It works just fine. Is there a wicking or gasket repair products you can use to fix this. I was thinking a couple applications of a green lock tight after I heat it up to try and get the oil out.

Any suggestions?
 
I did something similar on a few vehicles by draining it, brake cleaning the hell out of it, pulling a small vacuum on it, brake cleaning more and using grey permatex squeegee’d in. I used a hand vac pump to avoid F’ing anything up with too much vacuum.
 
Similar to the above comment.....

Drain it, clean the fuck out of it, apply Permatex "Right Stuff" sealer to the outside with a squeegee, let dry 12 hours and fill it back up.

I had to do this to a reduction unit gear case a few weeks ago due to the part not being available for 40 working days. Worked good and is still holding.
 
I won’t have to drain as liquid level is 12” lower than leak. I’ll give it a sho!! Worst that can happen is it still leaks.t
 
The Ford stuff for a 7.3l oil pan works great. if you can get it all clean and smear some of this shit around the area, it will prob never leak again. I have had great luck with it, enough that I keep a couple on the shelf just in case.

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Het some of the grey silicone from international​​​​​, ill send you a pic on monday of it. Stuff is great for that kinda leak.
 
The Ford stuff for a 7.3l oil pan works great. if you can get it all clean and smear some of this shit around the area, it will prob never leak again. I have had great luck with it, enough that I keep a couple on the shelf just in case.

Het some of the grey silicone from international​​​​​, ill send you a pic on monday of it. Stuff is great for that kinda leak.

Same stuff that Dan posted, just in a Ford can. I'm like 90% sure its really grey Permatex "Right Stuff" rebranded. Same as Hondabond and Yamabond, the motorcycle equivalent.

Side note: The Permatex "Right Stuff" black and gray sealers I posted are used in many OEM applications and is FAR superior to regular silicone sealers. I use the black exclusively for everything I need sealed up. Its the more HD version of the two and more resistant to oil, vibration and heat. I have not touched a tube of regular silicone in 20 years. :smokin:

Linky...Linky https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us
 
Not sure why they quit doing the half tubes of right stuff? I bought the gun for it and liked it way better than the cheese wizz can.
 
Right stuff is stupid.....
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Dumb strong as shit. Almost too strong for certain things :laughing:

I'm not a fan of the "new" cans with the weird trigger that pushes down, vs the old one that just had to be pushed to the side like cheese Wizz.

I need to just get a full caulk tube :flipoff2:
 
I used Right Stuff to glue the waterpump gaskets on a SBC that was in one of my circle track cars. Applied a super thin layer to the bare and cleaned block, smeared a thin layer on the clean pump, stuck the gasket on and bolted it down. End of the season came so the motor needed to come out for a refresh. Pulled the waterpump bolts and it doesn't budge. Tap it lightly with a rubber mallet.... Nothing. Take a decent swing at it and it still doesn't budge. Finally got pissed off so I climbed into the engine compartment and standing on the cage and radiator support
I curb stomped the pump to get it off. When I picked it up I noticed it had ripped the entire gasket in half on both sides. The pump and block still had Right Stuff and the gasket stuck to it. :lmao:
 
I've always wondered the difference between the instant use 'right stuff' sealer vs RTV silicone sealer. I know rtv requires air exposure to cure where the other stuff works a different way. One rainy day I need to geek out on sealant tech.
 
My old man's plow truck oil pan rotted out one storm. A handful of silicone window caulk and it was back on the road for a week or two until we could get back to it
 
i think putting a vacuum on it is a good idea. it will draw it in as much as possible, maybe a little glob will form on the inside that will anchor the sealant better.


i put a vacuum on tanks, cases and thing with any sealed environment when welding them it it makes a huge difference. i know welding is totally different issue but its not something i see many people do or know about.
 
i think putting a vacuum on it is a good idea. it will draw it in as much as possible, maybe a little glob will form on the inside that will anchor the sealant better.


i put a vacuum on tanks, cases and thing with any sealed environment when welding them it it makes a huge difference. i know welding is totally different issue but its not something i see many people do or know about.

The vacuum pulls the sealant in and (imho more importantly) keeps oil or crud from getting into wherever you want the sealant to stick. It is the only way to seal up Toyota diffs that have rusted through, for example. Using JB weld quick, not rtv gasket sealer.
 
I've always wondered the difference between the instant use 'right stuff' sealer vs RTV silicone sealer. I know rtv requires air exposure to cure where the other stuff works a different way. One rainy day I need to geek out on sealant tech.

It's like jerking off into a sock vs sex
 
Similar to the above comment.....

Drain it, clean the fuck out of it, apply Permatex "Right Stuff" sealer to the outside with a squeegee, let dry 12 hours and fill it back up.

I had to do this to a reduction unit gear case a few weeks ago due to the part not being available for 40 working days. Worked good and is still holding.

Came here to say that...that shit is the devil. works great.
wear gloves

takes a layer off your skin when you peel it off. it glues that well


short kinda comical story.
For one reason or another we had a allison dipstick tube that would not stop leaking. So one of the guys smeared a palm sized dollop of that shit around the tube. Never leaked again.

2 years pass by and the transmission lets go (water in through the vent)

Im dropping the trans, and i cant get the god damn dipstick tube out..could only cut 3/4 away around it with a razor blade. ended up having to yank it out...and it actually hurt my back.

Right stuff its the right stuff
 
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