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Hardbody SAS, Just like Momma used to do it

dentedsub said:
True, but thats not in the budget yet. I might do when I add locking hubs.

Next question, does anyone know if chev brake lines will bolt up or does Nissan use some weird metric size? I'm looking for a simple way to get longer brake lines.
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This:
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Earl's Performance 63010124ERL Earl's Performance Speed-Flex Brake Lines | Summit Racing

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Plus:
Summit Racing SUM-220328 Summit Racing™ Brake Fittings | Summit Racing
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Earl's Performance 989537ERL Earl's Performance Brake System Adapters | Summit Racing

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Will get you from the stock M10 fitting on the frame to the proper jeep/chevy D44 caliper banjo.


I only know because I ripped one of my lines off on the trail a few weeks ago and someone just happened to have those as spares. So I came home and ordered 3 sets + his replacement. :laughing:
 
Nissan stuff is metric. You'll need banjos and a metric adapter bolt
 
D-Rat said:
Nissan stuff is metric. You'll need banjos and a metric adapter bolt
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Or just use the shit I posted. :flipoff2:

I wouldn't want to use a conversion banjo....not some thing you could cobble together at the parts store if you broke something away from home.


Bonus part of using AN fittings is you can have the same line for the rear and just a different fitting for the end.

Even some of my locker air lines are -3 so if I ever got in a real bind I could rob one of those for a brake line.
 
I like the AN idea. I got fittings and caps and seals just lying around at work if needed. I just thought too if something happens I can just cap it off instead of trying to pinch a line.
 
dentedsub said:
I like the AN idea. I got fittings and caps and seals just lying around at work if needed. I just thought too if something happens I can just cap it off instead of trying to pinch a line.
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Yep. I added -3 caps and plugs to my "crash kit" that I carry around in my rigs. Also, a couple 10mm flare caps isn't a bad idea.
 
dentedsub said:
How much slack in the brake lines do most people prefer?
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My fronts will coil to a single maybe 5-6" loop if I take the slack out. I used the 25" AN lines with adapters that I posted above. Should be good for most setups. You'll want to get some cheap lightweight springs to tie them back to the frame so they don't rub your tires.
 
Made a little progress. Forward mounts are mostly welded on.
DSCN9927[1].JPG

My welding sucks buts its getting better.
 
Might be a good idea to wait until the project is further along before fully welding anything. It looks good but it will suck if something has to move and it's already welded up.
 
Welded on a plate to hopefully beef up the steering box mounts. This is where I really wish I could TIG. (Probably still looks like crap)
DSCN9954.JPG


Started painting today. Goal is to start reassembly tomorrow.
 
Got the axle bolted up finally.
DSCN9955.JPG

Wish I would have remembered to mock up the steering when I did everything else. I remember reading somewhere that the stock waggy steering would bolt up, but the drag link is 4.5 inches too short. I did purposly wait to buy anything though in case it didn't, just sucks to have to wait for more parts. Me being cheap I wonder if there is a 9 inch long adjuster sleeve that would fit.

Springs are definitely stiff enough, hubs front to rear are at teh same heighth. I'll put it around a bit before I decide if I need to remove any leaves.
DSCN9960.JPG
 
Looks awesome. Thanks for sharing your build. I'm about to build a 91 D21 2wd and I'm interest to see how you like this slider set up. I'm so used to messing with shackles.
 
Thanks. I'm excited to see how it works. I kinda wish they made a slightly smaller one, cause it looks huge and bulky under there.
I haven't done much lately, waiting on steering parts. BTW, everyone talks about using GM 1ton TREs that are 7/8-18. Apparantly they also used a 1-18 thread also. I found this out the hard way when 1 inch TREs showed up. Beefy suckers but I coudn't use them. I'm waiting on bungs from Ruffstuff and some replacement TREs from Rockauto.
Short list of accomplishments;
Got it sitting on 4 tires again.
Brake lines on and blead.
Bump stops on.
Patched a hole in the inner fender.
Radiator in.
Grill/bumper on.
DSCN9961.JPG

I couldn't wait so I took a leaf out. Didn't make a difference.
DSCN9963.JPG
 
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dentedsub said:
Got the bungs and TREs. Hopefully I can get the steering put together this week. I'm not welding it myself so it's going to depend on other's schedules.

I was looking at Rugged Rocks Offroad and wondered if anyone had used them. Specifically I was wondering if anyone had bought their trans crossmember for SAS.Nissan Hardbody Solid Axle Swap Crossmember by Rugged Rocks, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, (D21)
RR-D21SASCM-sm-600x600.jpg
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I haven't seen anyone use that personally, but I wouldn't hesitate. RR sponsors our club and sends us all kinds of cool shit every year and I know several people that have used some of their other products. I've worn the fuck out of the hoodie I got from them, so there's that. :flipoff2:



If fact, I jus saw someone looking for a calmini x-member and that one might work just as well for them.
 
Wait, am I tarded or does that not have the right frame mounting points?

The factory one mounts flat face tot he frame mounts.

1651683902386.png
 
I sent RR a message last week about the cross member but never heard back.

Not much progress. I thought I could buy DOM anywhere but not anymore. All of my usual places only sell HREW but have to order it, they only had pipe or square in stock. Dumb. So I ordered some from Ruffstuff that should be here tomorrow.

Took another leaf out. It actually made a difference this time. It was a 5 leaf pack, now a 3. I took out the shortest the first time and the middle this time. I can move it now when I stand on the bumper.

One huge regret I have that I realized last week. When I started all this a few months ago gas was $3 something and I left it at 1/4 tank thinking prices would come down.:homer: Really wish I filled it up then.
 
I'm still monkeying with the steering. Drag link contacted tie road at full lock with left side compressed. I talked to a local shop that wanted full shop rate for a 6 deg. bend. So I made these plastes to move my axle forward another inch. Sorry for more potatoe pics, didn't have my good camera. Axle is now about 3 inches forward of stock. We fubar'd while welding the bungs into the tubing and welding the tie rod end we had left in. I've been waiting 2 weeks now for Ruffstuff to send a replacement. They are SLOW at shipping.
Picture0607221208_1.jpg
 
Its been a while so I thought a quick update was in order.
I haven't been able to do any more of the fun work in a while. I need to get another pitman arm and ream it from the top though to make some more clearance the draglink and tre. I'll probably get a beefier sterring box while I'm at it. I doubt I will find a 90 or older truck in the junk yards around here.
Most of the work lately has been stupid. I took the truck on the freeway where it drove pretty good. Some bump steer but tracked straight.
Truck developed a bad misfire though. Looked at the plugs and wires, cap and put a new rotor on it. Everything else looked good. Took the valve cover off and found the timing chain seemed loose. Took me a week of couple hours a night to replace the timeing chain. Didn't fix a thing. So I still can't drive it.
BTW, why are there like 38 bolts holding the power steering pump on?
 
Because pics, here's a few things I forgot to mention. Shock mounts are started.
DSCN9996[1].JPG

Got springs on the brake lines but I would like some softer ones.
DSCN9995[1].JPG
 
Wouldn't have done that if the whole shock was getting used on the regular. That's what you get for driving like an old geezer. :flipoff2:
Joking but also not joking.
 
Haha, you're kinda right though. But notice in the first picture there's oil beaded up below the line and the second has rust below the line. The whole stupid shock is a more rust than paint now.
 
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