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Guido's 1965 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel Scout 80


Addicted to Gear Oil
May 19, 2020
Member Number
Corpus & Houston TX
I've had my 1965 Scout since 2006. I didn't set out to end up with a 7.3 Powerstroke Scout 80 on won-tons and DDDDs...it just kinda happened...🤣

Started build originally on JustIH.org https://www.justih.org/forum/main-tech-forums/scout-80-800/7502-a-scout-80-followed-me-home but now it's missing most of the pictures.

also have build thread on Binder Planet and PBB.

I found my 1965 Scout in the local paper, (he wanted $700) I talked him down to $500... and so it began...



152 4cyl, T-90 3 speed, Dana 20, and D27 axles...the usual.


The PO had started working on it. He cut out the driver's side floor, then lost interest. I drove it into the garage sitting on the spare tire :stuart:



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Nice to see it in your driveway and not down the street!
Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.

I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.

For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:

If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:

Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:
My initial plan was to fix the rust, fix the brakes, and get it running as a semi-daily driver/trail rig

I figured I would start where the PO left off and start cutting out the rust:
I made one very large error here...and didn't realize it until about 3 years later when I could actually stand more than 2 feet away from the Scout. I didn't brace to door frame and floor, so it moved when I cut it out. I *thought* the hard top would be enough to keep it square and lined up. Ended up with giant door gaps. but bu the time I realized it...I was not going to cut everything out and start over,
While I had the bed out, I figured I should address the mid-body mounts. I had seen a lot of pictures of bent and broken mounts, so I boxed them and an added some strength. I found out later when I re-did the body bushings that although my mid-body frame mounts were good, the sheetmetal boxes on the body were barely attached
must have been built on a Friday or a Monday


Passenger side:
Had local radiator shop clean up my tanks and repair leaks on the passenger tank. Reinforced the mounting straps and coated outside with POR-15.
Somewhere around August 2007 I stumbled across a set of axles from a 3/4 ton Chevy. 8 lug 10 bolt front and 14 bolt rear...
The Scout project just took a sharp right turn and veered off the cliff into the abyss
🤣 A simple brake job turned into a SOA with 3/4 ton axle swap and 4 wheel disc brakes.


Shaved the lip off the 14BFF rear:

Then I ordered up some spring perches, shackle hangers and spring mounts from Dan at Ruff Stuff Specialties

With tape measure in hand, I hit the junkyard until I found some leaf springs that would put my axles where I wanted them. In the back, Ford Bronco II springs (56" long 26"/30" 4" center pin offset I added Ford Ranger springs later to make a bastard spring pack) 2.5" wide spring (3" wide with bushings) which made a perfect fit to build spring hangers right off the frame.
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I made the spring hangers for the front of the rear springs, but used Ruff Stuff pieces for the rest... Dan makes awesome, beefy stuff, reasonably priced, and ships quick and easy, you'd be amazed what he can stuff in a USPS flat rate box

Everything is just tacked in at this point, it took me three tries to get the rear shackle angle where I wanted it.

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Then I started on the front:

Shackle reversal with Chevy 52" leaf springs (26"/26" centered pin) also 2.5" wide spring (3" w/ bushings).

Measure twice cut once!
I almost made a mistake here:

Uggh look at all the junk in the frame. I even found a fossilized mouse skeleton when I was vacuuming out the junk in the frame.

Mock up shackles so I could determine the length I needed to order from Dan @RuffStuffSpecialties:
I ended up making these shackles another inch longer, so the spring eye would clear the frame. My first set was too short.

Full droop:


Initially was was going to build a bumper further out, so I had the slope of the spring hangers facing forward. Once I realized I wouldn't need to do that to fit the Chevy springs, I turned them around. I extended the frame ~ 5", then built a bumper out of 2x4x.188 (3/16") rect tubing.
Once I got the spring hangers turned around, built the front bumper:


I also swapped in a GM steering column (1987 Chevy truck) and PS box from 1995 Chevy: Plated and sleeved through the frame.

Flattop high steer milled by JNutter, High steer arms and DOM drag link from Ballistic Fab (before they started sucking ass)


High steer cross over with late 70's Jeep Wagoneer pitman arm:
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March 2008 on all 4 baby worn out 32" swampers.

Added CJ5 body bushings, and replumbed the entire brake system. Master Cylinder Grand Marquis with 4 wheel disc brakes.



I got transferred to Fort Leavenworth KS in July 2008.

Bonus SHOP space :smokin:

CJ5 Body bushings:

My wonderful wife found us a place out in the country...

A 1,000 SF apartment, with a 2,400 SF GARAGE (I shared with the owner)
This is about 1/4 of the shop space in KS:


Finished up the rear bumper before we rolled out to KS:


I had always had an engine swap planned for the future, when the 152 died. I had built the Scout so far with the 152 in mind, I had 4.10 gears and 32" baby Swampers so I could drive it with the 4cyl. Unfortunately, although the 152 ran, it had horrible blow by, low compression, and had a lot of gas in the oil (from worn rings or leaking fuel pump, not sure). I had been keeping an eye out for a 4BT to swap, but had no luck locating a step van or engine by itself for a reasonable price.

It's a rare occurrence when the trifecta of time, money, and motivation coincide. While cruising Craigslist looking for parts, I found a wrecked 1996 F250 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel with a ZF-5S47 for $2,000. The wheels started turning... Thanks to a tax refund from Uncle Sugar, I had the time, money, motivation, and a GREAT SHOP.

I had no idea how BIG a 7.3L PSD was, so after taking some measurements of the Scout's engine bay, I went to look at the '96 F250.

I figured if the guys at 4 Wheel and Off-Road could cram a 5.9L Cummins 6BTA into a Wrangler, I could cram a 7.3L PSD into a baby Scout.

I've never been a Ford guy, but I'm keeping it in the family. At least it's a INTERNATIONAL Diesel. It says International on the valve cover


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It was perfect! Perfectly Wrecked that is...there wasn't a straight body panel on the entire truck, except maybe the driver's door. BUT...it fired up (in the cold February weather in near Kansas City, Missouri) and ran easily after sitting for over a year. I drove it on the trailer a towed it to the shop.

The PO went in a ditch and laid it on the passenger side, bent frame and not a straight body panel on it

Even though the body was thrashed and the frame was bent, mechanically, everything else was intact.

Out, out damn spot!

Did a little test fit on the radiator. Yep, that should fit, no problemo. :lmao:



Once I had the PSD out I went head and swapped the failure prone dual mass flywheel with a solid flywheel and new clutch.


Then I pulled the drivetrain out of the Scout. This was the point of no return
I had 2 trucks torn to pieces and a pile of parts.


T-90 and D20 vs ZF S5-47

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First test fit to see what I was going to have to cut to get the PSD crammed in there:


To get the PSD where I wanted it, I had to cut the firewall ~ 3" wider on each side of the engine hump. I initially thought I'd get it to fit behind the stock front crossmember, but after a few test fits, it went bye-bye, too.

Just barely enough room to squeeze the steering column in:


After a bunch of test fits, I chopped up the stock Ford crossmember and engine mounts to fit. The center is removeable so I can drop the oil pan without pulling the engine:

Engine mounts:




The good thing about having and entire parts truck, I was able to transplant/reuse a lot of F250 bits and pieces that would typically nickel and dime you into oblivion. I got the entire wiring harness, ECUs, and a bunch of little odds and ends.

I chopped up the stock motor mounts and reused them along with a heavily modified crossmember. I boxed in the motor mounts so they wrap around the frame:

From this:


chop, weld, chop....



Welded 3/8" round stock along the front edge for smoother finish and a bit of strength to make up for all the chopping. It's removeable so I can drop the oil pan without pulling the engine.

Started working on the turbo down pipe, I had to get the exhaust over to the driver's side since I was using a passenger's side drop Chevy front axle and NP205. In the Ford, the exhaust runs down the passenger side and the transfercase is on the driver's side.

In hindsight, it would have been an easier swap if I'd used a driver's side drop front axle, but had to work with what I had.

I got a few U-bends from Summit Racing and welded up a new downtube. It will probably flow better than the stock pancake downtube, and it get's my exhaust over to the driver's side.
After I finished welded everything I wrapped it up with some DEI Titanium header wrap.


Added a layer of Hushmat and re-used the stock Ford heatshiled.



After about 300 test fits, engine is in, no more engine hoist:

Soooo now that the engine and transmission are in...

I needed a new radiator...there was no way that the stock F250 rad was going to fit. So after taking a few measurements, and flipping through the Summit Racing catalog, I settled on a Griffin 2 core Pro Series 27.5" x 19 x 3" (the ProSeries has wider tubes (1.25" v/s typical 1.0" tubes) and is an inch thicker than most universal radiators) which was the largest size radiator I could realistically shove under the hood of the Scout, clear the frame rails and power steering box, with out some serious custom work (to the Scout or the radiator). It's about the same width as the stock radiator, a little shorter, and a little thicker...

Initially I was concerned about cooling capacity, but it's never run hot, even in the Texas heat. Typically runs 185-190, rarely gets over 200*F​​​​​​​


I also fabbed up two new battery trays. Two group 65s barely fit in there. I have to remove the nose piece/grille to change the batteries, that's how tight it is.

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