Gold Brick - 2002 F350 ECSB SRW

[aczlan]

We have a 2002 extended cab, short bed F350 for my inlaws farm. This thread is for upgrades/changes that I will do to it.
First up (sometime this winter) is replacing the rusty box with a flatbed. P

I picked up a couple year old Aluma brand 7x7 flatbed this summer, the previous owner had 4 U bolts holding it to the frame of his truck, but they had all worked loose (but were rusted in place, so we had to cut them off to remove it from his truck).

A friend has the same flatbed and almost the same truck (a couple years newer with the 6.0L diesel) and on his truck, the PO welded 4 pieces of 1.5" angle to the outside of his frame, them put bolts through that and into the frame of the flatbed.

Not sure I like that any better than the U bolts and I don't want to run into issues with cracking like Dethmachinefab found on the truck from Grendel:

Well see. Lots of cracked stuff, aluminum body's need to be fabricated different. They can't handle the fatigue from flexing like steel. When I would build aluminum racks and body's I used alot of bolted connections and big brackets with plug welds.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Aaron Z

 

[Dethmachinefab]

We have a 2002 extended cab, short bed F350 for my inlaws farm. This thread is for upgrades/changes that I will do to it.
First up (sometime this winter) is replacing the rusty box with a flatbed. P

I picked up a couple year old Aluma brand 7x7 flatbed this summer, the previous owner had 4 U bolts holding it to the frame of his truck, but they had all worked loose (but were rusted in place, so we had to cut them off to remove it from his truck).

A friend has the same flatbed and almost the same truck (a couple years newer with the 6.0L diesel) and on his truck, the PO welded 4 pieces of 1.5" angle to the outside of his frame, them put bolts through that and into the frame of the flatbed.

Not sure I like that any better than the U bolts and I don't want to run into issues with cracking like Dethmachinefab found on the truck from Grendel:

Anyone have any suggestions?

Aaron Z

One I like uses a fixed point on the rear like u bolts or a plate, and the front has angles with die springs allowing it to flex. Here is an example. Most refuse bodys are mounted this way.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

The chassis and body shouldn't contact directly. A hardwood strip or uhmw between is standard when attaching with U bolts. Has a little flex and give, prevents wear and reduces the risk of frame rail cracking.

 

[arse_sidewards]

One I like uses a fixed point on the rear like u bolts or a plate, and the front has angles with die springs allowing it to flex. Here is an example. Most refuse bodys are mounted this way.

This or rubber bushings.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

This or rubber bushings.

I like the urethane die springs best.

 

[aczlan]

The chassis and body shouldn't contact directly. A hardwood strip or uhmw between is standard when attaching with U bolts. Has a little flex and give, prevents wear and reduces the risk of frame rail cracking.

I plan to put a hardwood strip in between the frame and the flatbed, something that is 2-4" thick, that way the top of the headache rack will sit a little bit taller than the cab in case I need to put something long flat over the cab.
I think I have some 2x2x0.25" galvanized C channel that already has a foot formed in it like that for a spring, if that ends up looking big enough, I will get some springs for that.
The urethane die springs are just springs with a urethane coat of paint on them so they don't rust?

Aaron Z

 

[Dethmachinefab]

No, they are like a suspension bushing.

 

[aczlan]

No, they are like a suspension bushing.

Ah, even better, nothing to rust.
Do they take a flat washer on top, or a cup shaped one to keep them from splitting apart?

Aaron Z

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Ah, even better, nothing to rust.
Do they take a flat washer on top, or a cup shaped one to keep them from splitting apart?

Aaron Z

Flat washer is fine. Come in all sorts of sizes and durometer. I get them from McMaster.

 

[lagunaMS]

Anyone have any suggestions?

Post pics of the truck

 

[aczlan]

Post pics of the truck

I suppose, not sure what difference it makes, it looks like most every other first gen extended cab short bed super duty, it's gold and shaped like a brick...

Aaron Z

 

[lagunaMS]

I suppose, not sure what difference it makes, it looks like most every other first gen extended cab short bed super duty, it's gold and shaped like a brick...

She looks great!

 

[aczlan]

She looks great!

Thanks, it starts when I turn the key and keep going until I shut it off, that is the important part.
Drinks fuel like there is no tomorrow (V10), but other than that its been a good truck.
Hoping it makes it another 4-5 years and the craziness with truck prices calms down a little.
Then replace it with a newer F250/350 or Chevy/GM 2500/3500, depending on what we are doing, we might be able to drop down to a properly setup F150, but I would prefer a heavier truck if possible.

Aaron Z

 

[GLTHFJ60]

My flat bed is mounted directly to my frame rails. Welded/bolted at the rearmost part of the frame, then some 1/4" flat bar welded to the bed, bolted to the frame, in the front. Nothing loose, no issues in ~6 years.

I guess that's the difference between a steel bed and an aluminum bed? Typically box trucks have wood between the frame and box rails, but most flat beds I see don't.