Go fast 3 Link Tacoma sas

[Malburg114]

Always lurked on the og and now here. have a build on tacomaworld but not much real fabrication or wheeling goes on over there. Doing a big overhaul so figured I’d post up as I go here

backstory is it’s my first car. Cut it up at 18 in parents garage 5 years ago to convert it to 4wd and put it on leaf springs and 35s with my dads help. Won a gift certificate for tires at ejs the next year and bought 37s and a full width ruffstuff housing to swap my parts over. Got race take off 39s and put those on. Finally built a proper rear axle (609) and wanted to go faster and a better ride so plan was to link it this year then I found a good deal on bypasses, another 9 in third and now I’m building a steering 609 for the front...


some old pictures

 

[Malburg114]

More random photos from over the years

 

[Malburg114]

And it’s current state

if you know how to make the pictures upload with better quantify please do tell

 

[Add]

Less pics in a post, and make them medium in size. At least that's what I do

 

[Malburg114]

Coilovers showed up today. Waiting on high steer arms from fourwheelsupply to ship and my inner cs to come back from having the Id turned to fit the axle tube before I can start cycling everything

 

[Malburg114]

Some pictures of the link mounts. Hoping to squeeze the upper on the passenger side but with the driveshaft and exhaust there it may be tight and may move it to the driver side

 

[JamieRC]

 

[azdirt3.0]

This is going to be awesome. I like the go fast crawler styles

 

[4RunnerKid]

build is looking good so far, will be watching

 

[Malburg114]

Radiator showed up. Should clear the steering box by a 1/4 in or so

 

[Malburg114]

Redid the bypass coilover mount. It’s a little tall but the pattern will work with some angles cut in it.
Looked at some other mounts and shock towers. Most did 5 in spacing between the two. I went with 6.5 just to be safe. If I have the room I may move them in half an inch but I’ll wait

 

[Hodgiemoto]

😎🤑

 

[Malburg114]

Steering arms showed up two days early. Chased all the threads. Bent the link mount pieces to contour the frame.

need to pick up a 3/4 and 5/8 reamer and get some studs or bolts for the steering arms

 

[Malburg114]

My dads in town so he helped me clean up we’re the engine cage will mount to the cab. Also got the plates formed and tacked for the inside frame gusset.

ordered solid inners after shop in town jerked me around and can’t find anyone else to do. Should be here December 1st

 

[Alex123456]

I like how you capped off where you cut the inner fender, it looks clean. You're going to mount the engine cage there? Now is a good time to run it through into the cab and build a cage, or tie it into the cage. I didn't see one in your pics, but might have missed it.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Nice!

Subscribed

 

[Malburg114]

Going to mount the engine cage off where I capped the core support. No cage yet but plan is to hall it up to my dads place this summer and do it in his place since summers in Vegas suck and I want to use the truck some while the weathers decent. I’ll probably run it through to an internal cage and do a dash bar and extend the bar into the cab and just put a cage connector there later on.

 

[Malburg114]

Cs finally showed up. Lots of math and mocking up today to figure out how much to cut the housing. Should have the housing cut and assembled tomorrow hopefully.
I know the knuckle is backwards in the last two pictures. Just showing how I got my measurements. I’ll explain with more pictures tomorrow
and don’t worry. My car parts are rona free.

 

[Malburg114]

What a long stressful day... but the cs are on. Driver side took 3 tries. First wasn’t hot enough and I pounded on only to pound off cause it wouldn’t move. Cleaned the tube up a little, iced it and got the c super hot and it slid right on. Got the degrees perfect only for the housing to still be to long. I cut an 1 1/8 out of it and iced it and heated the c again. It slid on but cooled quick so was .5 degree off what I wanted. Cleaned up the c and assembled the hub.
Everything fits but the shaft hits the locking up cap keeping it from turning so I’ll try to put the housing in the press to move the c an 1/8 or just grind the shaft a little.


Other side I cut out 21 3/4 of the tube. The shaft slid in but only had 1/2 in of spline engagement so took another 3/4 of an inch out and it was just right. Did the same thing, iced and cleaned up the housing and left the c on the grill for a while. Tried it and it didn’t even slide on so I found some patience and threw them back in the grill. Half hour or so later it slid right on and was able to match the degree within a .25 degree.


Pretty happy overall. Once I figured out the heat/ice it was very simple. Just stressful with the cuts. The short side is well.. short. Should make the lower mount ineresting. Overall happy with how it turned out. Mad cause I beat the crap out of the one c but happy it’s together and I can start cycling.


Ended up with 15.5 degrees (was shooting for 16) so I’ll do 7 3/4 degrees of pinion angle which will give me 7 3/4 caster

 

[Malburg114]

Few more

 

[Malburg114]

And slid it under the truck. Anyone ever have to clearance solid inner cs? The inner shaft hits while turning and binds it up.

 

[Malburg114]

Links laid out. 45 in long lowers. 44.5 in upper. 6.5 degrees on the lowers at ride height. -1 on the upper but I could lower the frame side an inch. I’m not quite sold on the upper mount yet so chopped it up and lowered it and moved it foward some and shortened the upper by an 1.5 to gain some more uptravel. Plan on shortening the wheelbase an inch or two to get the upper behind the ac compressor for more uptravel. Moving along and feel like I made good progress today. Threw a fender on just to see where I was at wheelbase wise as well.

 

[Slander]

And slid it under the truck. Anyone ever have to clearance solid inner cs? The inner shaft hits while turning and binds it up.

You would probably get a better response in gen4x4 on that one. The toyota forum here is now tundra bed drawer builds and Aisin calling evreyone a newb

 

[Aisin]

You would probably get a better response in gen4x4 on that one. The toyota forum here is now tundra bed drawer builds and Aisin calling evreyone a newb

Correct. The grinding of the Solid C has been covered on the other site you fawking newb.

 

[KH85]

Looking good man.

Not sure if you did or not but I would plate/strengthen your inner frame rails under the link brackets. I built almost identical mounts on my truck. One decent hit to a front tire folded the frame in. PITA to cut out and fix properly.

 

[Malburg114]

Looking good man.

Not sure if you did or not but I would plate/strengthen your inner frame rails under the link brackets. I built almost identical mounts on my truck. One decent hit to a front tire folded the frame in. PITA to cut out and fix properly.

Thanks. All the link mounts are mounted to 3/16 so I can weld the link mounts and box them on the table then I’ll weld it all to the frame that wraps both the inside bottom and outside for strength. Hoping that’s enough since the frame is 1/8 already.

did you do a passenger or driver upper link?

 

[HELL BOUND]

And slid it under the truck. Anyone ever have to clearance solid inner cs? The inner shaft hits while turning and binds it up.

I just cleaned up the ears on the shafts with a flap wheel on mine. Didn't take much. And thats not where they break anyways.

 

[KH85]

Thanks. All the link mounts are mounted to 3/16 so I can weld the link mounts and box them on the table then I’ll weld it all to the frame that wraps both the inside bottom and outside for strength. Hoping that’s enough since the frame is 1/8 already.

did you do a passenger or driver upper link?

Thats exactly what I did, your mounts look exactly like mine. I thought they were large enough and spread over enough surface area (inside, bottom of frame) that they would be fine. Technically they were because only the factory frame was damaged, mount itself was fine, link, heims, bolts all just fine.

I did passenger side upper.

Edit: upon further inspection, your lower mounts are outboard a little further than mine so you may be ok. And to clarify the mount that bent the frame was the driver side lower, and being inboard a little more than yours it had added leverage to the inside of the frame.

 

[Malburg114]

Thats exactly what I did, your mounts look exactly like mine. I thought they were large enough and spread over enough surface area (inside, bottom of frame) that they would be fine. Technically they were because only the factory frame was damaged, mount itself was fine, link, heims, bolts all just fine.

I did passenger side upper.

Edit: upon further inspection, your lower mounts are outboard a little further than mine so you may be ok. And to clarify the mount that bent the frame was the driver side lower, and being inboard a little more than yours it had added leverage to the inside of the frame.

Thanks for the info. I need to move the lowers a little more in but would only be to the end of the plate i have there and correct the angle on them as its a little off. I already have gussets cut for the top of the plates thatll be full welded adn capped so hoping to not have any issues.

Mind posting some pictures of your axle end upper link? I think i got it figured out but always help seeing what others did. Tyring to clear the ac compressor on the 3.4 is proving to be a bitch and im not willing to lose the ac cause vegas summers suck lol.

 

[Malburg114]

Remade the upper mount to get most up travel. Straight up and down is roughly 7 inches but will probably get limited to 6.5 or so or until I do some more cycling. Upper link no longer limits the travel as the actual housing is getting into the oil pan at that much up travel.
Got the steering drilled and sleeved as well. Moving along. Signed up for trails at winter 4x4 so kind of have a deadline now