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Go fast 3 Link Tacoma sas

Our standard cab over nearly cut the mileage in half at 65, not sure I ever tried much faster than that. :laughing:

Did you buy new or used? I'm half tempted to go with the Alaskan, but they seem pretty barren for the money. I want a shorter and shower or I'm not sure the camper is worth it to me.
This is used. Got it from a family friend for a pretty good deal I thought. If I use it a lot and like it I’ll upgrade later.

It’s pretty bare bones but my only requirements was a shower. Previous owner added a shower pan in the corner and I’ll finish plumbing it and all the other work. It has a sink, stove and heater and had a fridge but was removed. I’d like to get a portable solar generator for power and maybe a 12v fridge but other than some updating and paint it doesn’t need much. I just got an instant hot water heater I’ll start putting in here soon
 
Little updates. Did another overnight trip to sandhollow end of 2022
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Got busy with getting the house ready for winter. Picked up a cheap plow while in sand hollow on above trip and mounted it on the skid steer. Seems to work well
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Picked up a new trailer. 22ft PJ trailer. 14k capacity. Tilt deck etc. kicker was it had a bent tongue. I cut it off and remade it and think it turned out well. Repainted and cleaned it up overall. Just need to flip the boards on the deck and oil it next.
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And finally went to winter 4x4 jamboree in sand hollow again

It
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was a good time. Only went Friday and Saturday which worked in our favor as it rained and snowed on Thursday. Ran some hard trails (twister and papa Smurf/smurfette) and only got denied on a few things. Tons of videos on my Instagram. Guy on Friday let my dad and I drive his rear steer Truggy which was cool. A lot going on and ultimately I did everything he did.
 
Is that blue Jeep with rear steer still lite brites or did they sell it?
 
Started on the cage today. Ripped the extra cab off the frame and got it on jackstands. Bending tube is hard but slowly getting the hang of it.

need to move the passenger a pillar in some to match the driver. The gap isn’t there on the driver side.
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Right after moab I got invited by a group of guys on Instagram to spend a few days in sand hollow. The weather was nice and the dates aligned with my normal days off and was a good chance to spend a few nights in the camper. In the end it was 3 nights and 3 days of wheeling. Group had a ton of carnage (2 axle u joints, 2 flats, hydro assist bolt and a flooded engine) and then I blew a rear arb line the last day but some jb weld and tape fixed that.

we ended up runnng some hard trails and with 8-10 rigs and only 3 of us on 40s, some struggled. Group also never wheeled sand hollow before and it’s a bit different from jv where they are used to. In the end, was a good trip and met some cool people.

considering I did 5 days of wheeling in moab and then 3 days at sand hollow back to back without even checking anything and no major issues, I waspretty happy.
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At the end of winter I picked up a 67 dodge d100. Was supposed to be a good motor but it blew up so I ls swapped it. Cool truck but not what I expected so currently trying to sell that
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Then crashed my daily. 89 touota pickup. Bent the frame but with a porta power and some new parts got it back together and driving.
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Then my old lady and I dropped the camper while loading it. Destroyed the siding. We resided it and fixed some stuff and did a big road trip to mt Rushmore and a bunch of places along the way. Was a good trip.
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And as if I didn’t have enough going on, I bought a big lot of machinist tools for super cheap. They all need cleaned up but main thing I wanted was the tooling and mill. I got the mill cleaned up and in the garage and the rest I’ll work on this winter.
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Worked some more on the cage and moved the old mill back in when I couldn’t sell it and just checked the crawler over before trail hero
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I looked but may have missed them, do you have any pictures of the upper link and exhaust on the Tacoma? I'm 3 linking mine right now and passenger side looks tight
 
I looked but may have missed them, do you have any pictures of the upper link and exhaust on the Tacoma? I'm 3 linking mine right now and passenger side looks tight
I looked and don’t have one. Before swapping transmissions it was all on the passenger side but super tight. Now the exhaust crosses over under the trans and goes down the driver side.

Here’s some pictures of the axle and frame side. Exhaust was straight for the most part but just barely squeezed between everything at full bump.
 

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Rad build man, just spent some time reading through everything.

Couple questions you might have answered but I missed

What rear leafs are you running? I think you said Deaver but are they 63s or a Toyota pack or what? Remember you saying you really liked how they performed.

Any reason you didn’t go with an 05+ based 609?

What wheelbase and width did you wind up with?

And a side bar… how’s the 2500 Ram handle the slide in and trailer with that coil rear? Do you wish you had a 3500?
 
Rad build man, just spent some time reading through everything.

Couple questions you might have answered but I missed

What rear leafs are you running? I think you said Deaver but are they 63s or a Toyota pack or what? Remember you saying you really liked how they performed.

Any reason you didn’t go with an 05+ based 609?

What wheelbase and width did you wind up with?

And a side bar… how’s the 2500 Ram handle the slide in and trailer with that coil rear? Do you wish you had a 3500?
Thanks

Rear springs are a 63 main with a deaver pack under it. I forget what deaver springs but they are meant for spring under and I got the pack used with a broken main. I tend to bend 63 mains as I’ve done two I think so this makes it easy to replace. They perform well for leaf springs and besides needing the bypass revalved and putting on my anti wrap bar that’s been on the shelf for years, I have no plans to link it.

No 05+ ends because I built the rear first and it may be due to lack of knowledge at the time but the only “kit” I could find a full float 609 rear was solid axle industry. And plus they had 6 lug hubs to work with my Toyota ruffstuff front axle I had at the time. Then when I built the front I strongly considered trail gear or spidertrax unit bearings but going with kingpin stuff made it so I can carry one set of bearings and races between the front and rear incase I ever have to rebuild a hub. And to keep the front end build cheaper, I got used knuckles and spindles.

Wheelbase should be 129-130. Front axle is 68 wms. Rear is like 67.75. I wanted almost same width to help with big cracks as I wheel mainly sand hollow.

No complaints on the 2500. Never ridden in a 3500 so don’t really know what I’m missing out on. I did add air bags which helped with the squatting a lot and took away some sway. Considering my previous truck was a single cab short bed Ram 1500 with the 5.7 and air bags, this is night and day difference and way better. Now I just set the cruise and forget about it. With the camper and crawler I set the cruise at 70 and no issues. Without the camper I still only do 73. I average about 10-11 with th camper and 11-13 without.

Sorry for the long response but let me know if that answers haha
 
Rear springs are a 63 main with a deaver pack under it. I forget what deaver springs but they are meant for spring under and I got the pack used with a broken main. I tend to bend 63 mains as I’ve done two I think so this makes it easy to replace. They perform well for leaf springs and besides needing the bypass revalved and putting on my anti wrap bar that’s been on the shelf for years, I have no plans to link it.
I was going to ask about an anti wrap bar, sounds like that might help your main leaf live longer.
No 05+ ends because I built the rear first and it may be due to lack of knowledge at the time but the only “kit” I could find a full float 609 rear was solid axle industry. And plus they had 6 lug hubs to work with my Toyota ruffstuff front axle I had at the time. Then when I built the front I strongly considered trail gear or spidertrax unit bearings but going with kingpin stuff made it so I can carry one set of bearings and races between the front and rear incase I ever have to rebuild a hub. And to keep the front end build cheaper, I got used knuckles and spindles.
That all makes good sense. So you’re running chromo 1480 shafts, did you say you’ve broken a joint or was that only in the driveshaft?
Wheelbase should be 129-130. Front axle is 68 wms. Rear is like 67.75. I wanted almost same width to help with big cracks as I wheel mainly sand hollow.
Did you Bob the bed?
 
I was going to ask about an anti wrap bar, sounds like that might help your main leaf live longer.

That all makes good sense. So you’re running chromo 1480 shafts, did you say you’ve broken a joint or was that only in the driveshaft?

Did you Bob the bed?
Never broke anything in the axle… *knock on wood. Broke a front driveshaft but that was because the cv ran out of degrees and actually snapped the cv.

Yeah. Bed is the same length at a 4door Tacoma now
 
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