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Geo Tracker Power Steering Question...

FleshEater

Ordinary Average Guy
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
832
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Loc
Pennsylvania
Will the 16V set up bolt up to the 8V or will I need to buy a new bracket? Found a parts Geo for $400 locally.
 
Looks like the bracket will need modified. Pretty sure that I am good on the crank pulley as my 8V had A/C and I ditched it.

Also just found out that this drivetrain has 64,000 miles on it. I might just do a motor swap.
 
Can you get the whole 16V and bolt it in place of the 8V?

Can’t remember for sure but it seems like my 8V is V belt and the 16V is serpentine
 
Can you get the whole 16V and bolt it in place of the 8V?

Can’t remember for sure but it seems like my 8V is V belt and the 16V is serpentine

I got the whole car. 16V with power steering, A/C, auto trans, 4WD. I need to see if my 8V is V belt. I can’t remember if it is or not. But, I think Low Range Offroad might sell a pulley to swap.
 
I got the whole car. 16V with power steering, A/C, auto trans, 4WD. I need to see if my 8V is V belt. I can’t remember if it is or not. But, I think Low Range Offroad might sell a pulley to swap.
Does it run? That’s how I ended up with my 4 door tracker. Had my bad ass little 2 door convertible built but the 8V sucked from minute one. Was keeping an eye out on CL for a 16V donor to do an engine swap. Found my white one for $700 bucks and it’s one of the cleanest Rigs I’ve ever found. Decided it was easier to put the lift and stuff off the 2 door onto the 4 door than it was to swap wiring harnesses.
 
Found my white one for $700 bucks and it’s one of the cleanest Rigs I’ve ever found.

That it is. :smokin:


8v’s and 16v’s are both v belts. I need to find a power steering setup for mine. I’ll of course forget about it until the weather gets cold and the big crawler gets put away and the Tracker comes back out.
 
Does it run? That’s how I ended up with my 4 door tracker. Had my bad ass little 2 door convertible built but the 8V sucked from minute one. Was keeping an eye out on CL for a 16V donor to do an engine swap. Found my white one for $700 bucks and it’s one of the cleanest Rigs I’ve ever found. Decided it was easier to put the lift and stuff off the 2 door onto the 4 door than it was to swap wiring harnesses.
Owner says it runs. 64k on the clock, but the fuel lines rotted, broke, and clogged the filter. This thing is a rusted turd, but under the hood is CLEAN, and so is the interior. My 8V runs awesome as well and just needs the oil pan gasket replaced and a timing belt/water pump job. Other than that it’s like a top.

That it is. :smokin:


8v’s and 16v’s are both v belts. I need to find a power steering setup for mine. I’ll of course forget about it until the weather gets cold and the big crawler gets put away and the Tracker comes back out.

Good to know! Thanks, man!

I wanted P/S which is how I got this one. All the good spare parts are just an added bonus.
 
For clarification...
All 1.6s (8Vs and 16Vs) are ribbed belt. The only trackicks (sidekicks actually) to have a v-belt were the early 89 model year sidekicks that had the 1.3 (samurai engine) that was carbed. These sidekicks will also have a 5 speed tranny with a unique bellhousing that adapts a trackick tranny to a 1.3 engine.
The PS pump brackets are different between the 8V and 16V. The 16Vs sit a little farther forward of the engine, because the timing belt cog is thicker (wider timing belt) and therefore pushes the belts farther away from the engine.
 
That it is. :smokin:


8v’s and 16v’s are both v belts. I need to find a power steering setup for mine. I’ll of course forget about it until the weather gets cold and the big crawler gets put away and the Tracker comes back out.
As mentioned, they're both serp. Only the 1.3 and the odd ball he's talking about a V belt.

Having both rigs side by side, the 16v swap should be pretty easy and a decent jump in power.

Edit: quick Google says it's not super easy. Need to swap the whole harness, which iirc, means pulling the dash out. All the mechanical connections should be the same. Not sure on fuel tank/pump.

Do it and let us know how it goes :flipoff2:
 
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The wiring harness that goes to the rear for the tail lights, fuel pump, tank sender, etc. should be the same between a 1.6 8V and 1.6 16V (assuming the trackicks are of the same era...89-95 or 96-98...the 96-98 trackicks are OBDII and have a pressure sensor or something in the tank, from what I recall, so a couple of extra wires in the harness). The rear harness plug is in the driver's side kick panel IIRC.
Yeah, the dash will need to be pulled to swap that part of the harness, but it isn't bad to do, in the whole scheme of things.

Also note that automatic trannys are different between a 2 door trackick and 4 door. 2 door will be a 3 speed. 4 door will be a 4 speed. The 3 speed is vacuum controlled and gets vacuum from a port on the 8V intake. The 4 speed is longer and electronically controlled. So that can complicate the 16V swap if/when swapping between body styles.

The 1.6 8V is 80HP. The 16 16V is 95HP, so a decent jump in power. But even 95HP isn't going to win many drag races...but that isn't why we drive trackicks.
 
For clarification...
All 1.6s (8Vs and 16Vs) are ribbed belt. The only trackicks (sidekicks actually) to have a v-belt were the early 89 model year sidekicks that had the 1.3 (samurai engine) that was carbed. These sidekicks will also have a 5 speed tranny with a unique bellhousing that adapts a trackick tranny to a 1.3 engine.
The PS pump brackets are different between the 8V and 16V. The 16Vs sit a little farther forward of the engine, because the timing belt cog is thicker (wider timing belt) and therefore pushes the belts farther away from the engine.
Just discovered an issue with my pulley sitting too far forward.

What’s the best way to make a 16V bracket work on an 8V? Cut the front tab off and slot the two larger bolts?
 
Just discovered an issue with my pulley sitting too far forward.

What’s the best way to make a 16V bracket work on an 8V? Cut the front tab off and slot the two larger bolts?
Modifying how/where the bracket bolts to the block is really the only way to get it to line up, short of just finding an 8V PS pump bracket.
 
Modifying how/where the bracket bolts to the block is really the only way to get it to line up, short of just finding an 8V PS pump bracket.

Got it figured out.

Found one on eBay for $58. I’m too cheap for that. Just going to cut it, move it, weld it and slot the others to get it lined up.

Edit: Never mind. Looking at the bracket on eBay more, the 8V doesn’t even have a third bolt location on it. Only the two. This will be easier than expected.
 
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