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GD MFn Birfeild soup every MFn time

Hodgiemoto

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Member Number
2950
Messages
171
I swear every frickin time I tear into my front the axle seals have failed. I've used Marlins, TGs and stock and nothing ever seems to hold up. Probably less than a year after I built my Rock Assault I gotta pull the hubs off to redrill for hub stubs and sure as shit here it comes. Fucking mess every time.

WTF is there any tips, tricks or magical spells to throw at this situation? Besides a D60?:homer:
 
If it makes you feel better, I have never had birf soup despite cutting my knuckle balls off with an angle grinder and welding them back on without a true bar:flipoff2: Marlin inner seals here.
 
Spindle bushing, spindle alignment, seal suface on the innner axles, Trunion bearings?

Are the seals failing? deformed? Is your diff overfilled? Is your diff breather working? Are you running one of those stupid bellows?
 
Pack the housing full of grease and dont use gear oil. :idea:

P.S... the inner seals all suck...

I actually know someone who did this with some high dollar grease. He had one of those stupid Toyota/D44 hybrids that wouldn't stop leaking. He was super anal and couldn't deal with it. I can't remember how long it ran that way though. I do know so one on the opposite end of the spectrum who ran no oil after ripping the drain plug out. I think it made it almost a year :lmao:

Spindle bushing, spindle alignment, seal suface on the innner axles, Trunion bearings?

Are the seals failing? deformed? Is your diff overfilled? Is your diff breather working? Are you running one of those stupid bellows?

Bellow or a bent axle are also good ideas.
 
I struggle with this myself, not so much the leaking axle seals, but the nasty greasy goop fest everytime I have to take anything apart on the frontend. Also pretty sad when you start taking apart any 99+ superduty front axle and see how cleanly and fast it comes apart. I don't think I'll ever build another toyota front axle again.

Kevin
 
I struggle with this myself, not so much the leaking axle seals, but the nasty greasy goop fest everytime I have to take anything apart on the frontend. Also pretty sad when you start taking apart any 99+ superduty front axle and see how cleanly and fast it comes apart. I don't think I'll ever build another toyota front axle again.

Kevin

Well that, and people want about the same money for the 60 as a 40 year old Toyota axle that needs $1000s dumped into it just to be OK and 9s probably bent :laughing:
 
A lot of good ideas here..

Rock Assault housing so I hope the hell it's not bent. RCVs came right out.

I've got the factory breather relocated up to the firewall. Maybe it's clogged up??

I will check the spindle bushings.

Yes I didn't check the knuckle alignment when I built the axle so guilty as charged. Will have to do some research on that. I focused more on the preload.
 
A lot of good ideas here..

Rock Assault housing so I hope the hell it's not bent. RCVs came right out.

I've got the factory breather relocated up to the firewall. Maybe it's clogged up??

I will check the spindle bushings.

Yes I didn't check the knuckle alignment when I built the axle so guilty as charged. Will have to do some research on that. I focused more on the preload.
Old pirate had a loaner jig that got shipped around the country. Trunion shims is important.
 
A lot of good ideas here..

Rock Assault housing so I hope the hell it's not bent. RCVs came right out.

I've got the factory breather relocated up to the firewall. Maybe it's clogged up??

I will check the spindle bushings.

Yes I didn't check the knuckle alignment when I built the axle so guilty as charged. Will have to do some research on that. I focused more on the preload.
get the preload how you want it like normal then look at the stub shaft coming out through the spindle, is it centered? more towards the bottom? more towards the top? if it doesnt look centered in the spindle then either move shims from the top to the bottom or vise versa to get it centered, this can help with leaky inner seals.
 
This.... it'd estimate a vast majority of toyota owners don't even know how to do this.

OR... you probably have a bent housi

get the preload how you want it like normal then look at the stub shaft coming out through the spindle, is it centered? more towards the bottom? more towards the top? if it doesnt look centered in the spindle then either move shims from the top to the bottom or vise versa to get it centered, this can help with leaky inner seals.
this i never did explains alot lol:beer:
 
get the preload how you want it like normal then look at the stub shaft coming out through the spindle, is it centered? more towards the bottom? more towards the top? if it doesnt look centered in the spindle then either move shims from the top to the bottom or vise versa to get it centered, this can help with leaky inner seals.
This is how I aligned mine without the tool.
 
Welp, tore everything apart last night and I did have uneven shims top and bottom. Will reshim with even shims this time around.

Also checked the brass spindle bushings and yes indeed they have some slop. Slid them onto the axle shafts they would rattle around a bit so I'll get those ordered up, probably from Marlin.

The seals look and feel good but I will replace them anywho.

I don't think I could accurately use my "eyecrometer" to tell if it's properly aligned but maybe... I watched a YT video and how a real mechanic would do it with the proper toyota service tools buuut nah.. Low Range has a good video series on rebuilding a front axle and basically recommends the even shims top and bottom to get the alignment as close as possible.

I keep thing to myself hopefully this will be the last time I pull this thing apart but pffffft.. wishful thinking.

New bushings, seals, and proper alingment will do the trick. Thanks for the replys:beer:
 
Welp, tore everything apart last night and I did have uneven shims top and bottom. Will reshim with even shims this time around.


you dont need even shims top to bottom(unless that aligns the knuckle where it needs to be), you put more shims on the top or bottom depending which way the knuckle needs to be moved to better align it
 
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you dont need even shims top to bottom(unless that aligns the knuckle where it needs to be), you put more shims on the top or bottom depending which way the knuckle needs to be moved to better align it
this... 1000% this.
 
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