What's new
By:
Filters

gain more uptravel with out loosing ride height. coil overs

chaplinfj60

chaplinfj60

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Member Number
3057
Messages
3,071
Loc
marshalltown iowa
good am all,

i have gone stupid today. but i think it is a easy solution. what i want to do is get more up travel with out gaining ride height. i know i can adjust the coil overs and run the spanner nut down and gain some there but then i increase ride height. so if i want the ride height to stay the same do i just crank down some on the spanner and raise the upper mount up the same amount i adjusted the spanner? , basically i want two or 3 more inches of up travel.

this last weekend i was on the bumps alot more than i needed to be and it was harsh i think.

1652192028133.png
 
The only way you are going to accomplish what you want is by raising the upper mounting location and/or lowering the lower mounting location. You are going to have the same compressed height for your springs, so you are going to have to run the spanner down by the same amount you changed the distance between the mounting locations.

You could also run shorter shocks, but then you will gain up travel at the expense of overall travel...
 
thanks, i was thinking the same thing but had to ask because it did not seem that it could be that simple, spanner done 2 inches, raise top mount two inches.

turns out i think i am a trail rider and i bounce over more logs and rocks than a hard core crawler does so the 4 up needs to be 6 or 7 on a 14 inch CO
 
You'll probably need different springs too.
 
a couple of observations
  • you dont have a reservoir, you need a reservoir
  • revalve what you have get some more support

to accomplish your goal
  • move mounts
  • get a custom shock made
  • check out different brands to see if they offer something with a shorter eye to eye (swayway is always the shortest)
  • depends on brand you could buy a short travel shock, pull internal spacers and get more travel
 
chaplinfj60 said:
this last weekend i was on the bumps alot more than i needed to be and it was harsh i think.
Click to expand...
I assume you mean the bumps that are to the right of the limit strap in your picture? You will need to increase the distance between the bump stop and the bump pad to gain up travel also.
 
yep exactly. and them are rubber cone bumps inside a air bump can, my intention was to use as a guide to get air bumps in the correct spot, i dont think that rubber smashes up 2 inches so that will get me some more also.
 
In the picture it looks like you slider stops are close or touching the sliders at ride? Do you mind sharing what rate springs you are using? It sounds like you might need to switch to a lighter lower and heavier upper.
 
this maybe a better view, i am running 150/ 175 up front, and 150 /150 rear, i went by the wide open design vid on how to choose springs. i think that redoing the spring rate check maybe in order, its been 14 months and since then i have added parts and remounted things and in general messed up the original weight calc. i will post a similar pic of when i figured that out. there is a fair bit of weight that has been added in the past 14 months, like window V bars, side door bars, front engine cage, turbo and heavy ass exhaust manifold, them things could easily be over 100 plus pounds.

thanks again for pointing out the obvious thing. hahahah . :beer::beer:

1652271991448.png



1652272337234.png
 
chaplinfj60 said:
this maybe a better view, i am running 150/ 175 up front, and 150 /150 rear, i went by the wide open design vid on how to choose springs. i think that redoing the spring rate check maybe in order, its been 14 months and since then i have added parts and remounted things and in general messed up the original weight calc. i will post a similar pic of when i figured that out. there is a fair bit of weight that has been added in the past 14 months, like window V bars, side door bars, front engine cage, turbo and heavy ass exhaust manifold, them things could easily be over 100 plus pounds.

thanks again for pointing out the obvious thing. hahahah . :beer::beer:

1652271991448.png



1652272337234.png
Click to expand...
Is the issue that it needs more up travel or that it bottoms out to easily? Some back of the envelope math says 100 lbs added may only require 3 lbs/in stiffer springs or less than 1/2" more preload.

Is the 175 the upper or lower? If it's the upper and the springs are the same length, switching the springs will result in it taking 16% more load to bottom out.

Btw, the 4 link calculator has a shock and spring page. May be worth checking it out.
 
omg, just moving the springs from top to bottom will change things up. omg i am so new at this crap. getting schooled daily i feel like.

hmmm ty treefrog...

bottoms out too easy i think

on my calc now looking it over so much info here on the new 4 link calc
 
(upper spring free length - collapsed length at ride height) * upper spring rate = spring load
redo for the lower spring to make sure their is nothing weird, typically the math should be within 10-15%

(upper free length + lower free length) - (upper collapsed length + lower collapsed length) = spring sag

shock length - shock shaft showing at ride height = shock sag

spring sag - shock sag = preload (this number should be positive) 1-2" for front, 2-3" for rear
 
mobil1syn said:
(upper spring free length - collapsed length at ride height) * upper spring rate = spring load
redo for the lower spring to make sure their is nothing weird, typically the math should be within 10-15%

(upper free length + lower free length) - (upper collapsed length + lower collapsed length) = spring sag

shock length - shock shaft showing at ride height = shock sag

spring sag - shock sag = preload (this number should be positive) 1-2" for front, 2-3" for rear
Click to expand...
you just made my head hurt. :lmao::lmao::lmao:

but i do think i understand what your saying.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
omg, just moving the springs from top to bottom will change things up. omg i am so new at this crap. getting schooled daily i feel like.

hmmm ty treefrog...

bottoms out too easy i think

on my calc now looking it over so much info here on the new 4 link calc
Click to expand...
The springs can be flipped only if they are the same length. It is not uncommon for the lower springs to be 2" longer.

If it helps but is not enough, you can switch springs to go to a higher step up ratio.
 
I set up the my shocks where the lower spring 2" longer than shock travel, and the upper spring equal to shock travel. This helps the slider from getting caught on the shock body.

14" travel shock = 16" lower spring and 14" upper spring.
 
Wait, do your shocks have the dual rate stops installed? Im not seeing them, and they affect spring rate/ride as well. Accutune had me set them about 1" over the dual rate slider at ride height, works well for me.
 
Last edited:
are you talking that ring that you spin down and set. ? i may have not understood how to use that at the time and forgot about them till now yikes.....

i remember last year having a converstion about them and had intentions on adjusting but honestly just forgot:lmao:
 
Yeah crossover ring adjustment is important.

chaplinfj60 said:
are you talking that ring that you spin down and set. ? i may have not understood how to use that at the time and forgot about them till now yikes.....

i remember last year having a converstion about them and had intentions on adjusting but honestly just forgot:lmao:
Click to expand...
 
mobil1syn said:
irate4x4.com

Spring Rate Calculator

Spring Rate Calculator
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
Click to expand...


please fill this out and post the results

j20brett said:
Think about it this way, lower spring sets ride height. as the springs compress and the dual rate slider hits the stop, it forces the upper spring to react.
Click to expand...

you have that backwards, the cross over takes the upper spring out of the system and relying solely on the lower.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i forgot how to get free length damit man
Click to expand...

something is off, because there is a large discrepancy between the lower and upper spring load. typically they should be around 10-15% difference. put the tcase in neutral and roll it back and forth and remeasure.

free length is the length of the spring you purchased ... should be labeled on the spring

1400.250.0150s - this is eibach's stamp
1400 - 14" spring
250 - 2.5" ID (for a 2" shock)
0150 - 150# rate
s - silver
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh