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Full Hydro Steering Filter

swampbog

New member
Joined
Dec 10, 2022
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5840
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I'm putting together a full hydro steering for my beater and I was thinking about a filter to use.
I was thinking of using a remote oil filter https://derale.com/product-footer/filtration/universal/remote-filter-mounts/2-pass
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But then I was thinking it'll be so easy to fit a in-line filter like these
https://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-1-2-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R012M.htm
1382557296709623554839.jpeg


https://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-Power-Steering-Universal-Filtration/dp/B09TG3BL
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BUT I'm not sure how well the inline small filters would do with flow, of course they would be on the return line after the cooler


I did see this and I was thinking maybe it'll be better on the pressure side just after the pump to catch any crap at the very start
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Hydraulic-Pressure-Filter
36L334_AS01?$adapimg$&hei=536&wid=536.jpg

The flow is 25 GPM

What kind of filters have you guys used?
Would you use a in line filter? If so before the pump or after the pump?
 
 
I'm using that exact derale adapter (13/16 version) and a NAPA 1061 Engine Filter on the PS filter on my Ultra4 Car.
 



Little filters will not flow enough to keep up and if they do they will not filter fine enough to keep the system clean. Avoid plastic for the heat.
The billet mount linked above is a good one for the price. Billet is a lot tougher than the cast Derale style which I have cracked before.
The Summit one can be mounted without the secondary bracket so it gives more mounting options.
Also linked is what appears to be the same as the RD brand bracket. Both brackets are about the same $55. Filter is about $15-$25 whichever bracket you go with from local parts store.

3/4-16 or 13/16-16 filters are borderline depending on the flow of your system. Unregulated pumps, or TT pumps, or high flow pumps need a bigger filter or you will get some restriction.
 
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Billet is a lot tougher than the cast Derale style which I have cracked before.
Great point. I just finished replacing mine after cracking it as well. Take into consider cost of replacement filters. The NAPA 1061 I mentioned are ~$15
 
Depending on what resi you go with, it may have one internal. I know the PSC resis have a paper filter.
I have a Saginaw P pump with reservoir, I did the West Texas mod on my the pump for more pressure and flow so I don't plan on replacing that right away
 
Little filters will not flow enough to keep up and if they do they will not filter fine enough to keep the system clean. Avoid plastic for the heat.
The billet mount linked above is a good one for the price. Billet is a lot tougher than the cast Derale style which I have cracked before.
The Summit one can be mounted without the secondary bracket so it gives more mounting options.
Also linked is what appears to be the same as the RD brand bracket. Both brackets are about the same $55. Filter is about $15-$25 whichever bracket you go with from local parts store.

3/4-16 or 13/16-16 filters are borderline depending on the flow of your system. Unregulated pumps, or TT pumps, or high flow pumps need a bigger filter or you will get some restriction.
Thanks for the info
I guess I'm going with the remote style filter. I just need to find a place to fit it.
 
I'd run whatever oil filter your engine runs in the return line. Between remote filter mounts and slapping a sandwich adapter on the side of you reservoir you should be able to figure out a decently clean solution. You can get crazy with filtration but since you're not trying to stretch things out to a 100k fluid change interval you're basically just concerned with catching the big chunks.
 
Whats the advantage of the bobcat filter ? its an inline but other then that ? its 5 times the price of a normal turn on 3/4-16 filter
 
Ok, but in the high pressure line you protect parts better/ faster in stead of placing in return or what is the advantage ?
 
On my assist setup I tried several smaller inline filter styles on my return line and had excessive fluid temps, trying several different cooler styles..... removed the filter and it's been good for years... no filter at all and cooler never gets too hot to touch.
 
Ok, but in the high pressure line you protect parts better/ faster in stead of placing in return or what is the advantage ?
Pressure drop doesn't matter
 
To best protect the system the filter needs to be as close to the components that will most likely create debris.
In the case of our steering systems the pump is most likely to create the debris, followed by the cylinder and lease likely is the orbital valve. Installing a high pressure filter at the outlet of the pump will protect everything downstream from a pump failure.
If a pump that returns it's relief or bypass oil back to the suction of the pump will have a pump failure escalate quickly once the process starts as there is no way to catch the debris from reentering the pump.
If a filter is install directly after the pump then the rest system is protected from the failure.

I'm curious of the long term effects of a constant restriction in the system on the pressure side and how the pump reacts.
 
I'm curious of the long term effects of a constant restriction in the system on the pressure side and how the pump reacts.
It just makes heat and drops pressure.
If your cooler is handling it and the downstream components work good on the lowered pressure, that shouldn't be an issue at all.
 
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